DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 1.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.35$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Children 24-13
DROPS design: Pattern no e-014-bn
Yarn group A
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Size: 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years

Materials:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
150 g for all sizes in color no 55, cerise

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3 mm / C – or size needed to get 24 dc x 13 rows = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 1.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.35$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Replace first dc on every row with 3 ch.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. NOTE: The first sc row in diagram is not a part of repetition and is not repeated when working.

DECREASE TIP:
Work 2 dc tog as follows: Work 1 dc in first st but wait with last pull through, work 1 dc in next st but on last pull through, pull thread through all 3 loops on hook.
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BOLERO:
Worked from mid back. Work first one side and down to beg of sleeve, then work the other side and down to beg of other sleeve. Then sew sleeve seams and work a flounce around the entire opening.

FIRST SIDE:
Ch 69-77-84-91-98 with Safran on hook size 3 mm / C. Turn and work 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, continue with 1 sc in each of the next 7-3-4-5-6 ch, * skip ch 1, 1 sc in each of the next 5 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 58-64-70-76-82 sc (first ch on row does NOT count as 1 sc). Continue with diagram A.1 - beg with 2nd row in diagram at the line for the size you are working so that the pattern is the same in both sides – READ CROCHET TIP! Repeat pattern until finished measurements. At the same time when piece measures 17-19-21-23-25 cm / 6 3/4"-7½"-8 1/4"-9"-9 3/4", insert 1 marker in the side (marks how far the sleeve seam is worked afterwards). On next row dec 1 dc in each side by working the second and third dc and the 2 next to last dc tog – SEE DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec every other row 6-7-8-8-9 more times = 44-48-52-58-62 sts remain - NOTE: When dec work only dc over the sts that do not fit the pattern. Work pattern until piece measures approx. 30-33-36-39-42 cm / 11 3/4"-13"-14 1/4"-15 1/4"-16½" in total, finish after a row with only dc, fasten off.

OTHER SIDE:
Work 1 sc in each of the 58-64-70-76-82 sc worked on 1st row on first side (i.e. mid back). Then work pattern as on first side. Make sure to finish on same row in diagram at the bottom of sleeve in both sides.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the bolero double alongside, and sew tog from bottom of each sleeve and up to where marker was is inserted in each side - sew edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam.

FLOUNCE AROUND OPENING:
Work around the entire opening as follows (start mid back):
ROUND 1:
1 sl st in first st, * ch 3, 1 sc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 3 ch and 1 sl st in first sl st at beg of round - NOTE: Adjust so that there are an even number of ch-spaces in total otherwise round 5 will not fit.
ROUND 2:
Work 1 sl st and 1 sc in first ch-space, * ch 3, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round.
ROUND 3 and 4: Work as 2nd round.
ROUND 5:
Work 1 sl st and 1 sc in first ch-space, * 8 ch, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 1, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round.
ROUND 6:
1 ch, 1 sc in first large ch-space, [* ch 4, 1 dc in first ch worked (= 1 picot), 1 sc in same ch-space *, repeat from *-* 2 more times (i.e. there are 3 picots in the large ch-space), 1 sc in the little ch-space (the one with only 1 ch which is between the large ch-spaces), 1 sc in next large ch-space], repeat from [-] the entire round, instead of last sc work 1 sl st in first sc on round. Fasten off.

FLOUNCE AT THE BOTTOM OF SLEEVES:
At the bottom around the sleeves work a somewhat shorter edge, here work only 1st, 5th, and 6th round of flounce worked around the opening - NOTE: On 1st round skip 1 dc between every ch-space.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = 1 ch
symbols = 1 sc
symbols = 1 dc
symbols = crochet direction
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (27)

country flag Viviane ANTONELLI wrote:

Bonjour, je ne comprends pas le diagramme pour 7/8 ans . Merci

05.04.2020 - 17:26

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Antonelli, vous commencez le diagramme A.1 par le repère indiqué pour votre taille, en le crochetant de droite à gauche (à partir du repère jusqu'à la fin du diagramme), puis vous répétez A.1 jusqu'à la fin du rang.; en fin de rang, crochetez les premières mailles de A.1 jusqu'à la fin du rang si besoin. Notez bien la dernière maille crochetée, sur l'envers, vous lirez le diagramme à partir de cette maille mais de droite à gauche en terminant par les dernières mailles de gauche du diagramme jusqu'au repère. cf comment lire un diagramme/. Bon crochet!

09.04.2020 - 13:56

country flag Anette Kjeldgaard wrote:

Tusind tak for fin opskrift. Jeg er kommet til flæsen og forstår ikke instruktionen: 1 fm om næste st - hvad betyder det?

04.05.2019 - 09:09

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Anette. Du skal da hekle rundt staven isteden for i staven (som man vanligvi gjør). Her er en video som viser hvordan det hekles OM en maske: . God fornøyelse

06.05.2019 - 08:33

country flag Annette wrote:

Goedemiddag, ik wil de bolero maken patroon 24-13 voor kinderen. Nu maak ik de maat 7/8 jarig dan begin ik bij het pijltje hoeveel stokjes heb ik dan voordat er een opening komt.

19.02.2019 - 16:55

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Annette,

Helaas begrijp ik je vraag niet helemaal. Bedoel je het aantal stokjes in de hoogte? Je plaatst bij een hoogte van 21 cm 1 markeerdraad welke aangeeft waar de mouwnaad begint, dus tot waar de opening is. Als 13 toeren 10 cm hoog is dan zal je ongeveer op 26 a 27 toeren zitten.

21.02.2019 - 11:15

country flag Silvia wrote:

Buongiorno sono alla quarta riga del diagramma e sto cominciando con le diminuzioni.ho lavorato la prima maglia alta poi due maglie alte chiuse insieme per fare la prima diminuzione e ora come proseguo? Nel diagramma ci sono 7 maglie alte, due catenelle ecc. Contando le 2 maglie alte chiuse insieme come fosse 1 e quindi devo fare altre 5 maglie alte e poi le due catenelle? Grazie

13.09.2018 - 16:20

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Silvia. All'inizio della riga, deve: lavorare 3 cat (sostituiscono la prima maglia alta), lavora la seconda e la terza maglia alta insieme, 4 maglie alte e 2 cat. Verifichi sempre che il motivo prosegue correttamente. Per diminuire alla fine della riga, lavora insieme la terzultima e la penultima maglia alta. Buon lavoro!

13.09.2018 - 16:34

country flag Silvia wrote:

Buongiorno... sto facendo questo Bolero non capisco quando bisogna cominciare a fare le diminuzioni dopo 17 cm di lavorato dite di fare una diminuzione ogni due righe vuol dire che faccio una diminuzione per la prima riga all'inizio e alla fine riga e quella successiva la lavoro così com'è e la terza riga di nuovo faccio la diminuzione? quindi una riga si una riga no? Per un totale di 7 volte? Grazie

12.09.2018 - 15:11

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Silvia. Sì esatto. Diminuisce una riga sì e una no in tutto 7 volte. Buon lavoro!

12.09.2018 - 17:10

country flag Pomme wrote:

Bonjour, arrivé a 17cm faut il réduire 6 fois par rang ou faire 6 rangs avec une réduction au début et une autre à la fin jusqu'à 30 cm de hauteur ? Si jamais il fayt faire 6 réduction, de combien de maille doit on les espacer ? Je ne comprend pas bien cette partie sur la réduction.

13.04.2017 - 10:42

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Pomme, à 17 cm, vous diminuez 1 B de chaque côté 7 fois au total tous les rangs: en début de rang, crochetez la 2ème et la 3ème B ensemble et en fin de rang, écoulez ensemble les 2 avant-dernières B ensemble, c'est-à-dire que vous diminuez à 1 m du bord de chaque côté. Bon crochet!

18.04.2017 - 08:33

country flag Valentina wrote:

Salve,sto seguendo le indicazioni per la taglia 9/10 anni e ho 76 punti. Iniziando il diagramma quindi da destra verso sinistra dopo 4 ripetizioni rimangono 4 punti..sbaglio qualcosa?grazie in anticipo

21.03.2017 - 22:00

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Valentina. E' corretto. Lavora le 4 maglie che le rimangono come indicato per le prime 4 maglie del diagramma. In questo modo, il motivo è simmetrico rispetto all'apertura del bolero. Buon lavoro!

21.03.2017 - 23:31

country flag Helen Bottom wrote:

I've downloaded the pattern and started at the section for third size but i am unsure where the repeat begins for the rest of the row do I go to the beginning of the chart or what? ( thanks for the pattern)

16.04.2016 - 21:31

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Bottom, start at the arrow for 3rd size and work from the right towards the left from RS, then work next repeat from 1st to last st in repeat, repeat diagram on the next sts and mark the last st worked. On next row from WS, start with the st you have just marked and read from the left towards the right. Happy crocheting!

18.04.2016 - 10:34

country flag Alessia wrote:

Salve, sto facendo questo bolerino, ma non è chiaro il suggerimento che date. Dove è scritto che le diminuzioni vanno fatte sulle m che non possono essere lavorate. Cosa significa? Come faccio a diminuire e nello stesso tempo a far portare il grafico ? Grazie

30.04.2015 - 18:48

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Alessia. Quando diminuisce, continua a lavorare il diagramma. Se deve diminuire, p.es, le due m che nel diagramma sono 2 cat, al posto delle cat lavora 2 m.a insieme. Buon lavoro!

01.05.2015 - 11:01

country flag Chantal Galarneau wrote:

Pourquoi faire une chainette de 69 ml et ensuite réduire le nombre de ms a 58? quand vient le temps de faire l'autre moitié, il est indiquer de relever seulement 58 m sur le premier rang, comment faire? merci

24.04.2015 - 22:16

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Galarneau, la chaînette de base est bien souvent plus serrée que le 1er rang de ms réalisé ensuite, pour pallier cette différence, on monte davantage de ml que l'on aura de ms au 1er rang. Pour le 2ème côté, on crochète de l'autre côté de la chaînette de base, 1 ms dans chacune des ms du 1er côté. Bon crochet!

25.04.2015 - 10:10