DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.10 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Lovely Lily

Crochet circle jacket with lace pattern and long sleeves in DROPS Paris. Size children 3 - 12 years.

DROPS Children 24-6
DROPS design: Pattern no w-052-bn
Yarn group C
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Size: 3/5 - 6/9 - 10/12 years
Chest measurements: 54/58 - 60/66 - 70/76 cm /
21 1/4"/22 /4" - 23½"/26" - 27½"/30"

Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
300-350-400 g color no 31, medium purple

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 5 mm / H/8 – or size needed to get approx. 13 dc in width x 10 rows with pattern on sleeves = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.10 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PICOT:
ch 4, 1 dc in the first ch made.

DECREASE TIP 1 (applies to front piece):
Dec 4 dc at beg and end of row by working the 5 first and 5 last dc tog.
This is done as follows: Work 1 dc but wait with last pull through, * work 1 more dc but wait with last pull through *, repeat from *-* 3 more times, make 1 YO on hook and pull yarn through all 6 loops on hook.

DECREASE TIP 2 (applies to sleeve cap):
Dec 3 dc at beg and end of row by working the 4 first and 4 last dc tog.
This is done as follows: Work 1 dc but wait with last pull through, * work 1 more dc but wait with last pull through *, repeat from *-* 2 more times, make 1 YO on hook and pull yarn through all 5 loops on hook.

PATTERN – SLEEVE:
ROW 1: ch 4 (= 1 sc + ch 3), skip 2 dc, 1 sc in next dc, * ch 3, skip 2 dc, 1 sc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire row. Turn piece.
ROW 2: ch 3 (= first dc), then work 2 dc in every ch-space and 1 dc in every sc between ch-spaces, finish with 3 dc in last ch-space. Turn piece.
Repeat 1st and 2nd row until finished measurements.

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BODY:
Worked in the round in a circle from mid back.
Chain 4 with Paris on hook size 5 mm / H/8 and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: ch 3 (= 1 dc), work 11 dc in ch-ring, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 12 dc.
ROUND 2: * 1 picot - SEE EXPLANATION ABOVE, skip 1 dc, 1 sl st in next dc *, repeat from *-* 5 times in total, finish with 1 picot and 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round = 6 leaves.
ROUND 3: ch 3, 1 sc at the top of first leaf, * ch 7, 1 sc at the top of next leaf *, repeat from *-* 6 times but finish with 1 sl st in sc at the top of first leaf on round = 6 ch-spaces.
ROUND 4: * 1 picot, 1 sc in ch-space, 1 picot, 1 sc in sc between ch-spaces *, repeat from *-* a total of 6 times but finish with 1 sl st in first ch on picot from beg of round = 12 leaves.
ROUND 5: ch 3, 1 sc at the top of first leaf, ch 5, * 1 sc at the top of next leaf, ch 5 *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round = 12 ch-spaces.
ROUND 6: ch 4 + 4 dc in first ch-space, ch 1, * 5 dc in next ch-space, ch 1 *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in 4th ch from beg of round = 60 dc.
ROUND 7: * ch 7, skip 5 dc, 1 sc in ch between dc-groups *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round = 12 ch-spaces.
ROUND 8: * 1 picot, 1 sc in ch-space, 1 picot, 1 sc in sc between ch-spaces *, repeat from *-* the entire round so that there are 2 picots in every ch-space = 24 picots, finish with 1 sl st in first ch on picot from beg of round.
ROUND 9: ch 3, 1 sc at the top of first picot, * ch 4, 1 sc at the top of next picot *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with ch 4 and 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round = 24 ch-spaces.
ROUND 10: ch 3 + 3 dc in first ch-space, * ch 1, 4 dc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with ch 1 and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 96 dc (= 24 dc-groups).
Piece measures approx. 12 cm / 4¾'' from the middle and outwards.

SIZE 3/5 YEARS:
ROUND 11: ch 1 (= first sc), * ch 5, 1 sc in next ch *, repeat from *-* 6 times in total, ch 23 (= armhole), skip 4 dc-groups, 1 sc in next ch, repeat from *-* 10 times, ch 23 (= armhole), skip the last 4 dc-groups, finish with 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round.
ROUND 12: ch 3 + 4 dc in first ch-space, 5 dc in each of the next 5 ch-spaces, in the long ch-space worked for armhole work as follows: * 1 dc in each of the first ch 5, skip ch 1 *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total, finish with 1 dc in each of the last ch 5, then work 5 dc in each of the next 10 ch-spaces, i.e. until next long ch-space for armhole, work the same way over this as the first long ch-space, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 120 dc.
ROUND 13: ch 1 (= first sc), * ch 6, skip 5 dc, 1 sc between the last skipped and the next *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 6 ch and 1 sl st in first ch on round = 24 ch-spaces.
ROUND 14: ch 3 + 4 dc in first ch-space, * ch 1, 5 dc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with ch 1 and 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round = 120 dc (= 24 dc-groups).
ROUND 15: ch 1 (= first sc), * ch 3, 1 sc in 3rd dc on first dc-group, ch 3, 1 sc in ch between dc-groups *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with ch 3 and 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round = 48 ch-space.
ROUND 16: ch 3 + 2 dc in first ch-space, then work 3 dc in every ch-space, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 144 dc.
ROUND 17: ch 1 (= first sc), * ch 4, skip 2 dc, 1 sc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with ch 4 and 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round = 48 ch-spaces.
ROUND 18: ch 3 + 3 dc in first ch-space, * 3 dc in next ch-space, 4 dc in next ch-space, 3 dc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-*, finish with 4 dc in each of the last 2 ch-spaces and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 162 dc.
ROUND 19: ch 1 (= first sc), * ch 4, skip 2 dc, 1 sc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with ch 4 and 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round = 54 ch-spaces.
Piece measures approx. 21 cm / 8 1/4'' from the middle and outwards, fasten off.
Continue working only over 17 ch-spaces in each side – i.e. do not work over 10 ch-spaces at top by neck or 10 ch-spaces at bottom of back.
Continue with explanation below front piece further down in pattern.

SIZE 6/9 YEARS:
ROUND 11: ch 1 (= first sc), * ch 5, 1 sc in next ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round = 24 ch-spaces.
ROUND 12: ch 3 + 4 dc in first ch-space, then 5 dc in every ch-space the entire round = 120 dc. Piece measures approx. 14 cm / 5½'' from the middle and outwards.
ROUND 13: ch 1 (= first sc), * ch 6, skip 5 dc, 1 sc between last dc skipped and the next *, repeat from *-* 6 times in total, 25 ch (= armhole), skip 20 dc, 1 sc between last dc skipped and the next, repeat from *-* 10 times, ch 25 (= armhole), skip the last 20 dc, finish with 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round.
ROUND 14: ch 3 + 4 dc in first ch-space, * ch 1, 5 dc in ch-space *, repeat from *-* 5 times in total, in the long ch-space worked for armhole work as follows: ch 1, skip first ch, ** 1 dc in each of the next ch 5, ch 1, skip ch 1 **, repeat from **-** 3 times in total, finish with 1 dc in each of the next ch 5, ch 1, skip last ch, then repeat from *-* over the next 10 ch-spaces, i.e. until the next long ch-space for armhole, work the same way over this as the first long ch-space, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 120 dc (= 24 dc-groups).
ROUND 15-19: Work as explained below size 3/5 years, after 19th round there are 54 ch-spaces on round.
ROUND 20: ch 3 + 3 dc in first ch-space, * 3 dc in next ch-space, 4 dc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-*, finish with 4 dc in last ch-space and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 190 dc.
ROUND 21: ch 1 (= first sc), * ch 4, skip 2 dc, 1 sc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round but skip evenly over only 1 dc 2 places, finish with ch 4 and 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round = 64 ch-spaces.
Piece measures approx. 23 cm / 9'' from the middle and outwards, fasten off.
Continue working only over 19 ch-spaces in each side – i.e. do not work over 13 ch-spaces at top by neck or 13 ch-spaces at bottom of back.
Continue with explanation below front piece further down in pattern.

SIZE 10/12 YEARS:
ROUND 11: ch 1 (= first sc), * ch 5, 1 sc in next ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round = 24 ch-spaces.
ROUND 12: ch 3 + 4 dc in first ch-space, then 5 dc in every ch-space the entire round = 120 dc.
ROUND 13: ch 1 (= first sc), * ch 6, skip 4 dc, 1 sc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 6 ch and 1 sl st in first ch on round = 24 ch-spaces.
ROUND 14: ch 3 + 4 dc in first ch-space, * ch 1, 5 dc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with ch 1 and 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round = 120 dc (= 24 dc-groups). Piece measures approx. 16 cm / 6 1/4'' from the middle and outwards.
ROUND 15: ch 1 (= first sc), * ch 6, 1 sc in next ch *, repeat from *-* 6 times in total, 27 ch (= armhole), skip 4 dc-groups, 1 sc in next ch, repeat from *-* 10 times, ch 27 (= armhole), skip the last 4 dc-groups, finish with 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round.
ROUND 16: ch 3 + 5 dc in first ch-space, then work 6 dc in each of the next 5 ch-spaces, in the long ch-space worked for armhole work as follows: * 1 dc in each of the first ch 6, skip ch 1 *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total, finish with 1 dc in each of the last ch 6, then work 6 dc in each of the next 10 ch-spaces, i.e. until next long ch-space for armhole, work the same way over this as the first long ch-space, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 144 dc.
ROUND 17-19: Work as explained below size 3/5 years, after 19th round there are 54 ch-spaces on round.
ROUND 20-21: Work as explained below size 6/9 years, after 21st round there are 64 ch-spaces on round.
ROUND 22: ch 3 + 3 dc in first ch-space, * 3 dc in next ch-space, 3 dc in next ch-space, 3 dc in next ch-space, 4 dc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-*, finish with 3 dc in next ch-space, then 4 dc in each of the last 2 ch-spaces and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 210 dc.
ROUND 23: ch 1 (= first sc), * ch 4, skip 2 dc, 1 sc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with ch 4 and 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round = 70 ch-spaces.
ROUND 24: ch 3 + 3 dc in first ch-space, * 3 dc in next ch-space, 3 dc in next ch-space, 3 dc in next ch-space, 3 dc in next ch-space, 4 dc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-*, finish with 3 dc in each of the last ch 4-spaces and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 224 dc.
ROUND 25: ch 1 (= first sc), * ch 4, skip 2 dc, 1 sc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round but skip evenly over only 3 dc instead of 2 dc 2 places, finish with ch 4 and 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round = 74 ch-spaces.
Piece measures approx. 27 cm / 10½'' from the middle and outwards, fasten off.
Continue working only over 22 ch-spaces in each side – i.e. do not work over 15 ch-spaces at top by neck or 15 ch-spaces at bottom of back.
Continue with explanation below front piece further down in pattern.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 17-19-22 ch-spaces. Continue as follows:
ROW 1: Work 1 dc in every sc (first dc is replaced by ch 3) and 3 dc in every ch-space – AT THE SAME TIME work the first 5 and last 5 dc on row tog - SEE DECREASE TIP 1 – (i.e. there are 8 dc less on row every time 1st row is worked) = 61-69-81 dc on row.
ROW 2: ch 5 (= 1 sc + 4 ch) up from first dc (i.e. the 5 dc worked tog), * skip 3 dc, 1 sc in next dc, ch 4 *, repeat from *-*, finish with 1 sc in last dc (i.e. in the 5 dc worked tog) = 15-17-20 ch-spaces on row.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 a total of 4-4-5 times, (= approx. 8-8-10 cm / 3"-3"-4"). 9-11-12 ch-spaces remain at the edge of front piece. Fasten off.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work same way as on left front piece over 17-19-22 ch-spaces in the right side.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth and sewn tog afterwards.
Chain 30-34-37 loosely (includes 3 ch to turn with) on hook size 5 mm / H/8 with Paris.
ROW 1: 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, 1 dc in each of the next 5-2-5 ch, * skip ch 1, 1 dc in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* the rest of the row = 25-28-31 dc. Turn piece.
Work 1 row with 1 dc in every dc - first dc is replaced by ch 3. Then work PATTERN for sleeve - see explanation above.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures approx. 10 cm / 4'' (make sure that next row is 2nd row in pattern), inc 3 dc evenly. Repeat inc approx. every 8-10-12 cm / 3"-4"-4 3/4" 2 more times = 34-37-40 dc in total on row. NOTE: Hold the piece up when measuring the sleeve length otherwise the sleeve will be too long when worn. When piece measures approx. 29-35-40 cm / 11½"-13 3/4"-15 3/4" (make sure that next row is 1st row in pattern), dec in each side for sleeve cap as follows: Work sl sts over the first 4 dc, then work ch-spaces as before (work first ch-space up from 4th sl st made) until 3 dc remain, turn piece. On next row, work the first 4 and last 4 dc tog – SEE DECREASE TIP 2. Repeat dec every other row 3 more times. Fasten off, piece measures approx. 37-43-48 cm / 14½"-17"-19". Sew sleeve seams edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam.

ASSEMBLY:
Work 1 round around the entire body as follows - beg mid back of neck with 1 sc in first ch-space: * 1 picot (= ch 4, 1 dc in first ch), skip approx. 1½ cm / ½'', 1 sc *, repeat from *-* around the entire piece, finish with 1 sl st in first sc.
Work the same way around the bottom opening of the sleeves.
Sew sleeves in body - make sure that sleeve cap is sewn in at the top of armholes, i.e. where the distance is shortest.

Work a ch-row with approx. 50 ch on hook size 5 mm / H/8 with Paris. Fasten off, this is used to close the jacket mid front.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (109)

country flag Dominique wrote:

Zwei Monate und noch keine Antwort....? Das ist schade.

25.02.2024 - 19:55

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Dominique, da Ihre Frage als Kommentar veröffentlicht wurde, haben wir sie verpasst, sorry dafür. In 6/9 haben Sie insgesamt 64 Luftmaschenbogen: 13 oben am Hals, 13 unten und je 19 für die Vorderteile sind insgesamt 64. Falten Sie die Arbeit in 2 sodaß beide Armlöcher übereinander sind, und dann zählen Sie die Verteilung damit beide Vorderteile symmetrisch sind. Viel Spaß beim Häkeln!

26.02.2024 - 09:41

country flag Dominique wrote:

Ich häkele Größe 6/9.\r\nNachdem ich jetzt mit dem Rumpfteil fertig bin, soll ich über 19 Lm Bogen rechts und links arbeiten, bzw. nicht über die 13 Lm Bogen oben und unten. Es ist aber insgesamt eine gerade Zahl an Lm Bogen, d. h. ich habe weder oben noch unten einen Lm Bogen, der mittig ist und somit muss ich nach rechts oder links schieben und das bedeutet, dass es nicht mehr symmetrisch wäre und die Ärmel schief sitzen würden.\r\nWas mache ich da?

22.12.2023 - 18:28

country flag Nelly wrote:

Wat een leuk patroon. Ik ben nu bij de mouwen maar kom er niet uit. Wat bedoel je met ' in patroon ' haken. Als ik de tour 1 herhaal dan kom ik niet uit. Ik haak de kleinste maat.

21.05.2023 - 18:34

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Nelly,

Met in patroon haken wordt bedoeld wat in het begin van de mouw beschreven staat. Dus afwisselend steeds 1 toer zoals toer 1 en dan 1 toer met 1 stokje in elke steek.

23.05.2023 - 09:49

country flag Nelly wrote:

Wat een leuk patroon. Ik ben nu bij de mouwen maar kom er niet uit. Wat bedoel je met ' in patroon ' haken. Als ik de tour 1 herhaal dan kom ik niet uit. Ik haak de kleinste maat.

21.05.2023 - 18:33

country flag Malin Moreau wrote:

Hej jag gör storleken 3 till 5 år. Rad 11 förstår jag inte alls. När jag gjort 1 luftmaska pluss 5 till så ska jag göra en fastmaska var? I nästa luftmaska står det, var är den?

16.03.2023 - 20:02

country flag Tasneem Akhtar wrote:

Hello . I'm following your beautiful jacket pattern for my grand. I'm following for size 6-12 . In row 13 I faced problem. There are 12 chain space. I divided it into 4-6-4-10. Please comment weather it's okay or incorrect division.

15.01.2023 - 20:27

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Akhtar, in size 6/9 years you work the 13th row over the 120 sts from previous round as follows: (ch6, skip 5 sts, 1 dc before next treble) x 6 (= 6 ch-spaces), skip 20 treble crochets and crochet 25 chains, then crochet 1 dc after the 20th treble, repeat from *-* one more time (6 ch-spaces), and crochet 20 chains, skip 20 treble crochets, and join with 1 slip st in the first chain at the beg of the round. Can this help?

16.01.2023 - 10:08

country flag Tasneem Akhtar wrote:

In row 13 there are 24 chain space. I used 5 spaces for armholes and 7 for front and back. Is there any problem in my understanding. Please comment

14.01.2023 - 14:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Tasneem, which size are you working? So that we may better answer your question. Happy knitting!

15.01.2023 - 11:01

country flag Tasneem Akhtar wrote:

In row 13 there are 24 chain space. I used 5 spaces for armholes and 7 for front and back. Is there any problem in my understanding. Please comment

14.01.2023 - 14:15

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Tasneem, which size are you working? So that we may better answer your question. Happy knitting!

15.01.2023 - 11:02

country flag Tasneem Akhtar wrote:

In row 13 there are 24 chain space. I used 5 spaces for armholes and 7 for front and back. Is there any problem in my understanding. Please comment

14.01.2023 - 14:14

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Tasneem, which size are you working? So that we may better answer your question. Happy knitting!

15.01.2023 - 11:02

country flag Tasneem Akhtar wrote:

In row 13 there are 24 chain space. I used 5 spaces for armholes and 7 for front and back. Is there any problem in my understanding. Please comment

14.01.2023 - 14:13

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Tasneem, which size are you working? So that we may better answer your question. Happy knitting!

15.01.2023 - 11:01