DROPS Cotton Light
DROPS Cotton Light
50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 1.25 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.75$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Calista

Knitted DROPS jacket with lace pattern in ”Cotton Light” or "Belle". Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 148-14
DROPS design: Pattern no cl-011
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 94-94-112-112-132-132 cm /
37"-37"-44"-44"-52"-52"
Full length: 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm /
24½''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''-28½''

Materials:
DROPS COTTON LIGHT from Garnstudio
500-550-600-650-700-800 g color no 23, light purple

Or us:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio
450-500-550-600-650-700 g colour no 12, cherry

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 3.5 mm /US 4 - or size needed to get 22 sts x 30 rows with lace pattern = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') and 2 DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 3 mm / US 2.5 – for rib and belt.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Cotton Light
DROPS Cotton Light
50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 1.25 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.75$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on circular needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.8. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

DECREASE TIP (applies to neckline):
Dec inside the outermost 11 sts in each side (= band + 1 st). All dec are done from RS!
Dec after 11 sts as follows: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec before 11 sts as follows: K 2 tog.
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BODY:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front.
Cast on 316-316-368-368-436-436 sts (incl 10 band sts in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with Cotton Light or "Belle". P 1 row from WS. Work next row as follows from RS:
SIZE S + M:
2 sts in GARTER ST – see explanation above, K 2, P 2, K 2, P 2 (= band), work A.1 (= 14 sts), work A.2 (= 30 sts) 2 times in total, insert 1 marker (= side), work A.3 (= 30 sts) 2 times in total, work A.1 2 times in total, A.2 2 times in total, insert 1 marker (= side), work A.3 2 times in total, A.1 one time and finish with P 2, K 2, P 2, K 2 and 2 sts in GARTER ST (= band).
SIZE L + XL:
2 sts in GARTER ST – see explanation above, K 2, P 2, K 2, P 2 (= band), work A.1 (= 14 sts) 2 times in total, work A.2 (= 30 sts) 2 times in total, insert 1 marker (= side), work A.3 (= 30 sts) 2 times in total, work A.4 (= 52 sts), A.2 2 times in total, insert 1 marker (= side), work A.3 2 times in total, A.1 2 times in total and finish with P 2, K 2, P 2, K 2 and 2 sts in GARTER ST (= band).
Size XXL + XXXL:
2 sts in GARTER ST – see explanation above, K 2, P 2, K 2, P 2 (= band), work A.1 (= 14 sts), work A.2 (= 30 sts) 3 times in total, insert 1 marker (= side), work A.3 (= 30 sts) 3 times in total, work A.1 2 times in total, A.2 3 times in total, insert 1 marker (= side), work A.3 3 times in total, A.1 (= 14 sts) and finish with P 2, K 2, P 2, K 2 and 2 sts in GARTER ST (= band).
ALL SIZES:
Continue rib like this until diagrams have been worked vertically (move the markers upwards when working), piece measures approx. 4 cm / 1½'' and there are 228-228-267-267-312-312 sts on needle. Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4, and work 1 row from WS with K over K and P over P.
Work next row as follows from RS:
SIZE S + M:
10 band sts as before, A.5 (= 10 sts), work A.6 (= 21 sts) 2 times in total, (marker), work A.7 (= 21 sts) 2 times in total, work A.5 2 times in total, work A.6 2 times in total, (marker), work A.7 2 times in total, work A.5 (= 10 sts) and finish with 10 band sts as before.
SIZE L + XL:
10 band sts as before, work A.5 (= 10 sts) 2 times in total, work A.6 (= 21 sts) 2 times in total, (marker), work A.7 (= 21 sts) 2 times in total, work A.8 (= 39 sts), work A.6 2 times in total, (marker), work A.7 2 times in total, work A.5 2 times in total and finish with 10 band sts as before.
Size XXL + XXXL:
10 band sts as before, work A.5 (= 10 sts), work A.6 (= 21 sts) 3 times in total, (marker), work A.7 (= 21 sts) 3 times in total, work A.5 2 times in total, work A.6 3 times in total, (marker), work A.7 3 times in total, work A.5 (= 10 sts) and finish with 10 band sts as before.
ALL SIZES:
Continue pattern like this upwards. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When piece measures 40-41-42-43-44-45 cm / 15¾''-16 1/8''-16½''-17''-17¼''-17¾'', work 2 rows back and forth only over the outermost 10 sts in one side of piece (i.e. only over band, the other sts are not worked), turn piece, work 1 row pattern as before and then repeat over the outermost 10 sts in the other side (this is done to make the neckline fold nicely). On next row from RS, dec 1 st in each side towards mid front for neck line – READ DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec for neck in each side every 4th row (i.e. every other row from RS), 4-4-14-13-12-12 more times and then every 6th row a total of 6-6-1-2-3-3 times. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 43-44-45-46-47-48 cm / 17''-17¼''-17¾''-18''-18½''-19'', divide the piece at the markers and finish front and back piece separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 104-104-123-123-146-146 sts. Work pattern back and forth on needle as before. AT THE SAME TIME cast on new sts for sleeves at the end of every row in each side as follows: Cast on 5 sts 3 times in total and then 8-10-8-10-8-10 sts 1 time = 150-154-169-173-192-196 sts – NOTE: Work the inc sts gradually in A.6/A.7. When all sts have been cast on, continue the pattern as before but work the outermost 4 sts in each side in garter st (in size S + L + XXL the pattern ends with 2 P inside 4 sts in garter st in each side and in size M + XL + XXXL the pattern ends with 2 K inside 4 sts in garter st in each side).
When piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm / 23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½'', bind off the middle 20-20-29-29-30-30 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Then bind off 1 st on next row from neck = 64-66-69-71-80-82 sts remain on needle. Continue the pattern with 1 st in garter st towards the neck and 4 sts in garter st towards the sleeve (the sts that do not fit the pattern are worked in stockinette st). When piece measures 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm / 24½''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''-28½'', loosely bind off all sts. Repeat on the other shoulder.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Continue pattern and dec for neck as before. AT THE SAME TIME cast on new sts for sleeve at the end of every row towards the side as on back piece. After all dec for neck, 74-76-79-81-90-92 sts remain on needle (the sts that do not fit the pattern towards the neck are worked in stockinette st). When piece measures 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm / 24½''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''-28½'', bind off the outermost 64-66-69-71-80-82 sts on shoulder = 10 sts remain on needle for neck edge. Continue rib as before but work the outermost sts towards the neck in garter st. When neck edge measures approx. 7-7-9-9-10-10 cm / 2 3/4"-2 3/4"-3½"-3½"-4"-4" from shoulder, slip sts on a stitch holder.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as right front piece but reversed.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew neck edge tog mid back - sew st by st with grafting/kitchener sts and sew neck edge to neckline in the back of neck.

BELT:
Cast on 4 sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 with Cotton Light or "Belle". K 1 row, * move the sts to the right side of needle without turning the piece, tighten thread on the back and K 1 row from the same side as previous row *. Repeat from *-* (working like this forms a round tie in stockinette st without working P). NOTE: It is important to tighten the thread on the back to make the tie look nice. When tie measures approx. 150 to 200 cm / 60"-80", cut the yarn and pull it through the 4 sts, tighten tog and fasten. Thread the belt up and down through the holes in the pattern - try the jacket on for correct placement.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = P 2 tog
symbols = no stitch, skip this square
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = K 3, pass the first st worked over the 2 other sts so that this st is around the 2 last sts on right needle (= 1 st dec)
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Calista

@magdalena.muller.716

Calista

Adrien, Hungary

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Comments / Questions (46)

country flag Lies wrote:

Moet ik eerst met 228 steken boordsteek breien en dan het patroon van 148-14 ?

14.04.2016 - 17:12

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Lies. Je breit eerst 1 nld av aan de verkeerde kant en dan brei je volgens de beschrijving voor je gekozen maat (bijvoorbeeld maat S of M): 2 st in RIBBELST – zie uitleg boven, 2 st r, 2 st av, 2 st r, 2 st av (= voorbies), brei A.1 (= 14 st), brei A.2 (= 30 st) 2 keer in totaal, plaats 1 markeerder (= zijkant), brei A.3 (= 30 st) 2 keer in totaal, brei A.1 2 keer in totaal, A.2 2 keer in totaal, plaats 1 markeerder (= zijkant), brei A.3 2 keer in totaal, A.1 een keer en eindig met 2 st av, 2 st r, 2 st av, 2 st r en 2 st in RIBBELST (= voorbies).

15.04.2016 - 10:01

country flag Kirsten wrote:

Bei den Abnahmen für den Halsausschnitt steht, dass die Abnahmen 4-4-14-13-12-12 x wiederholt werden sollen. Das erscheint mir für die Größen L-XXXL extrem viel.

19.01.2016 - 10:14

DROPS Design answered:

Es ist richtig, wie es dort steht. Denn dafür nehmen Sie in den kleineren Größen anschließend etwas öfter in jeder 6. R ab als in den größeren Größen, so relativiert sich das wieder.

24.01.2016 - 20:50

country flag Debbie wrote:

In the graphs for 148-14 Calista, it shows a black box - translated to no stitch, skip this square..... Do you just slip that stitch or just ignore that box in the pattern and continue with the next stitch. Example 7a k2, p2, k1, yo, p2, black box here ??????

20.06.2015 - 15:16

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Debbie, on previous row you have dec 1 st, so that this st doesn't inc anymore on this row, make a YO as shown in diagram and work the sts as in diagram, on next row, the st is "back" there, then will be dec again etc... ie on row 1 in A.7 work: K2, P2, K1, YO, K1, P2, (skip the black box), K5, ... Happy knitting!

22.06.2015 - 10:23

country flag Sissi Hark wrote:

Hallo, welches Lochmuster wird für die Maschenprobe benötigt? Vielen Dank vorab.

13.06.2015 - 09:43

DROPS Design answered:

Die machen Sie am besten im Muster A.6 oder A.7.

15.06.2015 - 21:17

Mervat wrote:

Hi ... what should i do if i want to make long sleeve?? thank you

14.04.2015 - 16:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Mervat, you can cast on more sts for the sleeves (figure out how many extra sts depening on how long you like the sleeves - remember to make sure you will have enough yarn) - you can get help from a similar pattern with long sleeves or contact your DROPS store for any individual assistance. Happy knitting!

15.04.2015 - 08:42

country flag Zahide wrote:

Ik zou deze vest met Drops Safran en met lange mouwen willen breien. Hoe doe ik dit?

08.10.2014 - 00:05

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Zahide. DROPS Safran is dunner dan de Cotton Light, dus je zou waarschijnlijk het patroon opnieuw moeten berekenen voor de juiste afmetingen. Verder moet je meer steken opzetten voor de mouwen. Je kan het doen met hulp van de stekenverhouding, maar heb je hier weinig ervaring mee zou ik aanraden om dit niet te doen of hulp te krijgen van iemand die het wel kan. Succes.

09.10.2014 - 13:51

country flag ANNA wrote:

Continuare a coste in questo modo fino a quando il diagramma è stato lavorato in verticale, il lavoro misura circa 4 cm e ci sono 228-228-267-267-312-312 m. sul f.: COME E' POSSIBILE CHE LE MAGLIE SIANO MENO DI QUELLE DELL'AVVIO? NON SONO STATE FATTE DIMINUZIONI! PER LA TAGLIA XL AVEVO MONTATO 368 MAGLIE ORA DOVREBBERO ESSERE 267..... IL SITO E' BELLISSIMO, GRAZIE. ANNA

09.05.2014 - 10:59

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Anna. Il numero delle maglie passa da 368 a 267 quando lavora l'ultima riga dei diagrammi A1, A2, A3 e A4. In quest'ultima riga infatti, in corrispondenza dei triangolini neri, deve lavorare 2 m insieme a dir. In questo modo si riduce il numero complessivo delle m. Ci riscriva se ancora in difficoltà. Buon lavoro!

09.05.2014 - 12:37

country flag Winnie Søgaard Thomsen wrote:

Hej. jeg kan godt forstå et en side som jeres har reklamer, men jeg bliver lidt irriteret over hver gang jeg vil printe en opskrift ud , printes der automatisk en reklame for sokkelicious ud. det koster en krig i blæk til ingen verdens nytte.Jeg er ellers meget glad for jeres sider, som jeg har brugt rigtig meget. venlig hilsen winnie

27.02.2014 - 12:17

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Winnie. Du kan altid vaelge det antal sider du vil printe ud naar din printmenu kommer frem. Paa den maade behöver du ikke at printe reklamerne ud.

27.02.2014 - 16:10

country flag Marga Franke wrote:

Heel hartelijk dank! Ik maak gewoon een denkfout! Het vestje wordt super! Gr. Marga

05.10.2013 - 22:56

country flag Marga Franke wrote:

Bij het minderen van de hals staat in het patroon het volgende: "herhaal dit minderen voor de hals aan elke kant elke 4e nld ( dus om de nld aan de goede kant ) nog 13 keer (maat xl.)" Dit spreekt elkaar tegen, elke 4 e nld is echt niet OM de nld. Kunt u mij vertellen wat het moet zijn??? Maakt voor de lengte en de vorm van de hals nog wel wat uit! Met vr.gr., Marga.

02.10.2013 - 20:18

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Marga. Het patroon is correct. Om de naald aan de goede kant is elke 4e nld (als je de naalden op de verkeerde kant meetelt).

03.10.2013 - 10:53