DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.95 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.55$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Miss Sophie

Knitted DROPS jacket in ”Muskat” with square on the back, lace pattern and ¾ sleeves. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 137-6
DROPS design: Pattern no R-614
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 80-88-96-104-116-128 cm / 31½"-34½"-37 3/4"-41"-45 3/4"-50½"
Full length: 55-57-59-61-65-69 cm / 21 5/8"-22½"-23 1/4"-24"-25½"-27 1/8"

Materials: DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
450-500-550-600-650-700 g color no 10, peach

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40, 60 and 80 cm / 16", 24'' or 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 - or size needed to get 20 sts x 28 rows in pattern = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
NOTE: It is important that the knitting gauge is correct both vertically and in width so that the square on the back piece gets the correct measurements.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24'') size 3.5 mm/US 4 – or size needed to get 20 sts x 42 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTONS NO 522: 3 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.95 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.55$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams M.1 and M.2. Diagrams show pattern from RS.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

SHORT ROWS (applies to side piece):
Beg from bottom edge and work as follows: * Work until 1st marker, turn and work back, work 2 rows over all sts, work until 2nd marker, turn and work back, work 2 rows over all sts *, repeat from *-*. I.e. 1 repetition = 4 rows at the top and 8 rows at the bottom.

BUTTON HOLES:
Bind off for 3 button holes from RS on right band.
1 button hole = bind off fourth st from mid front and cast on 1 new st on next row over this st.
Bind off for button holes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 15, 22 and 29 cm / 6", 8 3/4" and 11 3/8"
SIZE M: 16, 23 and 30 cm / 6 1/4", 9" and 11 3/4"
SIZE L: 17, 24 and 31 cm / 6 3/4", 9½" and 12 1/4"
SIZE XL: 18, 25 and 32 cm / 7", 9 3/4" and 12½"
SIZE XXL: 18, 26 and 34 cm / 7", 10 1/4" and 13 3/8".
SIZE XXXL: 20, 28 and 36 cm / 8", 11" and 14 1/4"
DECREASE TIP (applies to neck dec at the front):
All dec are done from RS inside all sts in garter st (= band + the inc sts for collar).
RIGHT FRONT PIECE: Dec as follows after all sts in garter st: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso. LEFT FRONT PIECE: Dec as follows when 2 sts in stockinette st remain before all sts in garter st: K 2 tog.
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JACKET:
First worked in a square in the round, then worked down the back piece and outwards in the sides. Then work front piece and the sleeves.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 8 sts with Muskat and divide them on 4 double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 (= 2 sts on every needle). Insert a marker at the beg of the round.
Then work diagram M.1 = 4 repetitions in the round. Switch to circular needle when needed.
REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When diagram M.1 has been worked, there are 264 sts on needle.
Continue in the round in stockinette st and with inc in every corner as before until there are 272-288-304-320-352-384 sts on needle, work 1 round after last inc.
Work next round as follows (all sizes): K 41-45-49-53-61-69 and then slip them on stitch holder 1 (= towards right side), bind off the next 28 sts (= armhole), K 67-71-75-79-87-95 and then slip them on stitch holder 2 (= up towards neck), bind off the next 28 sts (= armhole), K 41-45-49-53-61-69 and slip them on stitch holder 3 (= towards left side). 67-71-75-79-87-95 sts remain on needle, cast on 1 new st in each side (= edge st). NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
Work in stockinette st back and forth with 1 edge st in each side in GARTER ST – see explanation above – for 18 cm / 7'' (= down the back piece).
Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and work 6 rows in garter st. Then LOOSELY bind off.
Piece measures approx. 53-55-57-59-63-67 cm / 21"-21 5/8"-22½"-23 1/4"-24 3/4"-26 3/8".

BACK PIECE – upwards:
Slip the 67-71-75-79-87-95 sts from stitch holder 2 (= up towards neck) on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and work as follows (1st row = RS): 22-24-25-27-30-34 sts in stockinette st, bind off the next 23-23-25-25-27-27 sts for neck and work in stockinette st the rest of row (= 22-24-25-27-30-34 sts). Finish each shoulder separately in stockinette st.
Continue to bind off 1 st on next row towards the neck = 21-23-24-26-29-33 sts remain on the shoulder.
When a total of 5 rows have been worked after sts were slipped back on needle, bind off with P from WS. The entire back piece measures approx. 55-57-59-61-65-69 cm / 21 5/8"-22½"-23 1/4"-24"-25½"-27 1/8".

RIGHT SIDE PIECE:
Pick up 40 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 inside edge st along the right side of the section in stockinette st at the bottom of back piece, then work the 41-45-49-53-61-69 sts from stitch holder 1 back on needle = 81-85-89-93-101-109 sts. Turn and K 1 row from WS – AT THE SAME TIME bind off the first 2 sts (= towards armhole). Insert 2 markers in the piece as follows from RS: 1st marker after 25-25-26-27-27-28 sts and 2nd marker after a total of 50-50-52-54-54-56 sts (insert markers without working the row).
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Continue in garter st back and forth – while AT THE SAME TIME working SHORT ROWS – see explanation above!
ARMHOLES: At the same time bind off at beg of all rows beg from armhole: 2 sts 2-2-2-2-3-3 more times and then 1 st 2-4-6-8-8-10 times. 73-75-77-79-85-91 sts remain on needle.
Continue with short rows until 6-6-6-8-8-10 rows have been worked at the top by armhole after last bind off. On next row worked from bottom edge, cast on 1 new st at the end of row towards armhole, repeat inc at the end of every row towards armhole 1-3-5-7-7-9 more times, then cast on 2 sts 3-3-3-3-4-4 times. 81-85-89-93-101-109 sts now remain on needle and side piece measures approx. 6-8-10-12-14-16 cm / 2 3/8"-3 1/8"-4"-4 3/4"-5½"-6 1/4" at the top (and approx. 12-16-20-24-28-32 cm / 4 3/4"-6 1/4"-8"-9½"-11"-12½" at the bottom).
LOOSELY bind off all sts.

LEFT SIDE PIECE:
Work the 41-45-49-53-61-69 sts from stitch holder 3 on to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4, then pick up 40 sts down along left side of back piece inside 1 edge st = 81-85-89-93-101-109 sts. K 2 rows over all sts - at the same time on 2nd row beg bind off for armhole as on right side piece.
On next row (i.e. from bottom edge) beg short rows (first insert markers as on right side).
Continue as on right side piece.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 41-43-45-47-51-55 sts (includes 6 band sts towards mid front and 1 edge st in the side) on needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Muskat. Work 6 rows in garter st. Switch to needle size 4 mm / US 6 and continue in stockinette st but with 6 band sts and 1 edge st in the side worked in garter st until finished measurements. When piece measures 11-12-12-13-13-14 cm / 4 3/8"-4 3/4"-4 3/4"-5 1/8"-5 1/8"-5½", work as follows (beg from RS): 6 band sts in garter st, 2-3-4-5-7-9 sts in stockinette st, diagram M.2 (= 29 sts), 3-4-5-6-8-10 sts in stockinette st and 1 edge st in garter st.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
BUTTON HOLES: When piece measures 15-16-17-18-18-20 cm / 6"-6 1/4"-6 3/4"-7"-7"-8", bind off for BUTTON HOLES - see explanation above.
COLLAR: At the same time when piece measures 28-29-30-31-33-35 cm / 11"-11 3/8"-11 3/4"-12 1/4"-13"-13 3/4", beg to inc for collar. Inc inside outermost band st by making 1 YO. On next row K YO twisted to avoid holes. Repeat inc on every other row a total of 14 times and then on every 4th row 5 times (inc 19 sts in total, i.e. 25 sts in garter st incl 6 band sts after last inc).
NECK DEC: At the same time when piece measures 31-32-33-34-36-38 cm / 12 1/4"-12½"-13"-13 3/8"-14 1/4"-15", dec 1 st for neckline - SEE DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec every row from RS a total of 13-13-14-14-15-15 times.
ARMHOLES: When piece measures 41-43-45-47-51-55 cm / 16 1/8"-17"-17 3/4"-18½"-20"-21 5/8", bind off 1 st in the side for armhole.
After all inc and dec there are 46-48-49-51-54-58 sts on needle.
When diagram M.2 has been worked, continue in stockinette st over these sts.
Work until piece measures 55-57-59-61-65-69 cm / 21 5/8"-22½"-23 1/4"-24"-25½"-27 1/8" in total (adjust according to back piece). Now bind off the outermost 21-23-24-26-29-33 sts on the shoulder (bind off from WS to avoid cutting the yarn when continuing with collar), work the rest of row (= 25 sts remain).
Continue in garter st over these sts as follows: * 2 rows in garter st over all sts, 2 rows in garter st over only the outermost 18 sts (i.e. towards mid front) *, repeat from *-* until collar measures approx. 7-7-7½-7½-8-8 cm / 2 3/4"-2 3/4"-2 7/8"-2 7/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/8" at the inside on the most narrow part (it will then measure the double at the edge).
Putting the sts on a stitch holder now and sewing collar tog mid back with kitchener sts will look nicer, but you can also bind off and sew the collar tog with neat stitches.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as right front piece but reversed and without button holes. Bind off shoulder sts from RS.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 52-54-56-60-62-66 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. Work 4 cm / 1½'' in garter st. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and continue in stockinette st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side.
When piece measures 10 cm / 4'', inc 1 st in each side. Repeat inc every 2-2-1½-1½-1-1 cm / 3/4"-3/4"-½"-½"-3/8"-3/8" a total of 10-11-12-12-14-14 times = 72-76-80-84-90-94 sts.
When piece measures 33-32-31-29-27-25 cm / 13"-12½"-12 1/4"-11 3/8"-10 5/8"-9 3/4" (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and broader shoulder width), bind off for sleeve cap at beg of every row in each side: 3 sts 1 time, then bind off 2 sts in each side until piece measures 38-38-38-37-36-35 cm / 15"-15"-15"-14½"-14 1/4"-13 3/4", finally bind off 3 sts 1 time in each side, then bind off the remaining sts.
Sleeve measures approx. 39-39-39-38-37-36 cm / 15 1/4"-15 1/4"-15 1/4"-14½"-14 1/4".

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew the 2 collar parts tog mid back by using either kitchener sts or neat stitches and sew on to back piece.
Sew front piece to the edge pieces in garter st - sew inside 1 edge st on front piece and inside bind off edge on edge piece.
Sew sleeve seams inside 1 edge st and sew in the sleeves. Sew on buttons.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = 1 BOBBLE: Work 4 sts in the same st by working alternately in front and back loop of st, then work 4 rows in stockinette st back and forth over these 4 sts, then pass second st on right needle over first st, third st over first st and fourth st over first st = 1 st remains
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (94)

country flag Birgit wrote:

Hallo, in der Anleitung steht "Maschenprobe im Muster gestrickt". Auf welches Muster bezieht sich das? Und wenn ich das Rückenmuster (M1) nehme; beginne ich dann wie in der Anleitung Rückenteil? Also aus der Mitte heraus? Vielen Dank und viele Grüße Birgit

24.06.2019 - 07:58

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Birgit, Maschenprobe ist mit Lochmuster, dh mit M.1 bzw M.2. Rückenteil wird zuerst in der Runde mit M.1 gestrickt, dann stricken Sie den unterern Teil (die anderen Maschen werden entweder abgekettet (= Armaussschnitte) oder stillgegelgt, dann stricken Sie den oberen Teil (mit Halsausschnitt), dann stricken Sie die rechte und die linke Seite (separat). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

24.06.2019 - 08:20

country flag Picard wrote:

Il y a une erreur dans le diagramme M1 il est noté tricoter à l'endroit sur endroit et envers sur l'envers mais comme on tricote en circulaire en fait il faut tout tricoter à l'endroit sinon on obtient du point mousse et pas du jersey. Par contre M2 est juste puisqu'on tricote en aller retour.

02.06.2017 - 14:22

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Picard, les diagrammes sont justes, 1 case blanche dans les diagrammes se tricote en jersey endroit (soit tout à l'endroit quand on tricote en rond, soit à l'end sur l'endroit et à l'envers sur l'envers quand on tricote en allers et retours). Bon tricot!

02.06.2017 - 16:08

country flag Audooren Myriam wrote:

Oke ik was bang dat ik er tekort zou hebben door die opmerking die voor mij staat Grt Myriam

25.01.2017 - 18:26

country flag Audooren Myriam wrote:

Hoe veel wol zou ik nodig hebben voor model 137-6 maat XL

25.01.2017 - 13:26

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Myriam. Kijk aan het hoofd van het patroon: Maat: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL Materiaal: DROPS MUSKAT van Garnstudio 450-500-550-600-650-700 gr. kleur nr. 10, perzik

25.01.2017 - 13:59

country flag Elizabeth Fasol wrote:

Ja mijn stekenverhouding was prima ik mask altijd eerst een proef vandaar dat het mij ook zo verbaasde.

07.08.2015 - 21:16

country flag Elizabeth Fasol wrote:

Ik kocht voor dit vestje 700 gram muskat. Dat is voor de grootste maat. Ik heb de een na grootste maat. Ik had 14 bolletjes. Toen ik nog een voorpand en een mouw moest had ik volgens mijn berekening nig 6,5 bolletjes nodig. Ik heb nooit wol tekort. Echt nooit. Ik heb met de juiste naald gebreid. Als ik dit geweten had 21 bolletjes, dan had ik een ander patroon gekozen. Nu wordt het wel heel erg duur. Graag uw commentaar. Met vriendelijke groet Elizabet fasil 0652064911

02.08.2015 - 15:01

DROPS Design answered:

Beste Elizabeth. Meer dan 1 kilo garen voor deze type vest maat XXXL is wel erg veel - ook in vergelijking met andere soortgelijke Muskatvesten op onze site. Ik vraag me af of u misschien iets verkeerds hebt gedaan en of uw stekenverhouding (zoals aangegeven in het patroon) klopt. Maar ik zal een bericht doorgeven aan ons Design team, zij beheren de patronen en maken aanpassingen als nodig.

03.08.2015 - 14:50

country flag Damaris wrote:

Por favor podria decirme si los aumentos para e cuello los hago tambien por el lado revez ?

20.11.2014 - 03:18

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Damaris. Los aumentos para el cuello se trabajan en las filas del LD (es decir cada 2ª fila). En la fila de vta los aumentos hechos en la fila anterior se trabajan como pt retorcido para evitar que se formen agujeros.

24.11.2014 - 12:15

country flag Benedetta wrote:

Buonasera, ho finito il davanti dx, ho cominciato il davanti sx al contrario del davanti dx ma non capisco come lavorare il diagramma M.2 , sempre da dx verso sx o come? Grazie per il vs aiuto

30.03.2014 - 22:17

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Benedetta. Anche per il davanti sinistro, il diagramma M.2 viene lavorato da destra verso sinistra. Ci riscriva se è ancora in difficoltà. Buon lavoro!

31.03.2014 - 13:58

country flag Benedetta wrote:

Scusate ho dimenticato di dirvi che in totale io ho eseguito 2 ripetizioni(8ferri in alto e 16 ferri in basso).grazie

22.03.2014 - 23:37

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Benedetta, dopo aver inserito i segnapunti, deve iniziare a lavorare a ferri accorciati e contemporaneamente iniziare le diminuzioni per gli scalfi. Dopo l'ultimo intreccio per lo scalfo deve lavorare a ferri accorciati fino a quando sono stati lavorati 6 f in alto vicino allo scalfo. Ci riscriva se non è chiaro. Buon lavoro!!

23.03.2014 - 13:08

country flag Benedetta wrote:

Scusate,ho dimenticato di dirvi che ho eseguito 2 ripetizioni di f.accorciati e cioè 8 ferri in alto e 16 ferri in basso.grazie

22.03.2014 - 23:14

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Benedetta, dopo aver inserito i segnapunti, deve iniziare a lavorare a ferri accorciati e contemporaneamente iniziare le diminuzioni per gli scalfi. Dopo l'ultimo intreccio per lo scalfo deve lavorare a ferri accorciati fino a quando sono stati lavorati 6 f in alto vicino allo scalfo. Ci riscriva se non è chiaro. Buon lavoro!!

23.03.2014 - 13:07