DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.95 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 136-30
DROPS design: Pattern no R-613
Yarn group B
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Size: XS/S - M - L/XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 80-96-112-128-144 cm / 31½"-37 3/4"-44"-50½"-56½"
Full length: 52-54-56-58-60 cm / 20½"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"

Materials: DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
400-450-550-650-750 g color no 07, light yellow.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 mm/US 7 - or hook needed to get 5 large ch-spaces of PATTERN 1 = 10 cm / 4'' in width and 2.5 repetitions of PATTERN 2 = 10 cm / 4'' in width .
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON NO 521: 1 piece

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.95 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN 1 (also see diagram M.1):
ROW 1: See explanation in pattern.
ROW 2: ch 5, 1 sc in middle ch on first ch-space, ch 2, 1 sl st in same ch, * ch 5, 1 sc in middle ch on next ch-space, ch 2, 1 sl st in same ch *, repeat from *-* until 1 ch-space remains, ch 5, 1 sc in middle ch on last ch-space, turn piece.
Repeat 2nd row upwards.

PATTERN 2 (also see diagram M.2):
ROW 1: See explanation in pattern.
ROW 2: ch 4, * 5 dc in ch-space, ch 1, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, skip 2 dc *, repeat from *-* until 1 ch-space remains, work 5 dc in this ch-space, ch 1 and 1 dc in 3rd ch from beg of row, turn piece.
ROW 3: ch 5, 1 dc in first dc, * skip 1 dc, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, skip 1 dc, in next dc work 1 dc + ch 3 + 1 dc *, repeat from *-* until 5 dc remain, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, skip 1 dc, 1 dc + ch 2 + 1 dc in 3rd ch from beg of previous row, turn piece.
ROW 4: ch 3, 2 dc in first ch-space, * ch 1, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, skip 2 dc, in next ch-space work 5 dc *, repeat from *-* until 5 dc remain, ch 1, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, skip 2 dc, in last ch-space work 3 dc, turn piece.
ROW 5: 3 ch, skip 2 dc, * in next dc work 1 dc + 3 ch + 1 dc, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, skip 1 dc *, repeat from *-* until 4 dc remain, in next dc work 1 dc + 3 ch + 1 dc, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in 3rd ch from beg of previous row.
Repeat rows 2 to 5.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth from mid front. First work PATTERN 1 up to shoulder, then work PATTERN 2 from cast on edge and down. The sleeves are worked from armholes and down.

Ch 187-224-262-298-335 on hook size 4.5 mm/US 7 with Muskat.
Turn, work 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, then work 1 sc in each of the next 3-5-1-2-4 ch, * skip ch 1, work 1 sc in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* the rest of row = 160-192-224-255-287 sc.
Work next row as follows: ch 5, skip the first 2 sc, 1 sc in next sc, * ch 5, skip 3 sc, 1 sc in next sc, ch 5, skip 4 sc, 1 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* until 4-0-5-0-5 sc remain, work these:
SIZE XS/S: ch 5, skip 3 sc, 1 sc in last sc.
Sizes M and XXL are done.
SIZE L/XL and XXXL: ch 5, skip 4 sc, 1 sc in last sc.

Turn piece (= 35-42-49-56-63 large ch-spaces + loop used when turning at beg of row).
Continue PATTERN 1 (beg on 2nd row) – see explanation above!
REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
When piece measures approx. 12-13-14-15-16 cm / 4 3/4"-5 1/8"-5½"-6"-6 1/4", divide for armholes and finish each piece separately.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work diagram M.1 back and forth over the first 9-11-12-14-16 large ch-spaces - AT THE SAME TIME next time 3rd row in diagram is worked, dec for neck according to diagram M.3.
Repeat dec until 6-7-9-10-11 large ch-spaces remain on shoulder.
Continue to work diagram M.1 until piece measures approx. 29-31-33-35-37 cm / 11 3/8"-12 1/4"-13"-13 3/4"-14½"– work last row as follows: ch 5, 1 sc in middle ch on first ch-space from previous row, * ch 5, 1 sc in middle ch on next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the rest of row, cut the yarn.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as right front piece but reversed.

BACK PIECE:
Work back and forth over the middle 17-20-25-28-31 large ch-spaces. When piece measures approx. 29-31-33-35-37 cm / 11 3/8"-12 1/4"-13"-13 3/4"-14½" (count so that no of ch-spaces vertically on front piece is the same as on back piece), work 1 last row over 6-7-9-10-11 ch-spaces in each side as on front piece (the 5-6-7-8-9 middle ch-spaces = neck).

EDGE AT THE BOTTOM:
Work down from cast on edge as follows (beg from WS): 1 sl st in first sc, then ch 3, skip 2 sc, in next sc work 1 dc + ch 3 + 1 dc, * skip 2 sc, work 1 dc in each of the next 3 sc, skip 2 sc, in next sc work 1 dc + ch 3 + 1 dc *, repeat from *-* until 4-4-4-3-3 sc remain, skip 3-3-3-2-2 sc and work 1 dc in last sc, turn piece.
Continue PATTERN 2 (beg on 2nd row) – see explanation above! There will be a total of 20-24-28-32-36 repetitions on row.
Work diagram M.2 for approx. 22 cm / 8 3/4'', finish after 2nd or 4th row in pattern. Work last row as follows: * ch 3, skip 1 st (either 1 dc or 1 ch), 1 sc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the rest of row, cut the thread.
The entire body measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60 cm / 20½"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8" vertically.

ASSEMBLY:
Crochet the shoulders tog as follows: * 1 sc in first large ch-space on front piece, ch 2, 1 sc in first large ch-space on back piece, ch 2 *, repeat from *-* on both shoulders.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth from armhole and down.
Work 1 sc in first ch-space at the bottom of armhole, * ch 5, skip approx. 2 cm / 3/4'', fasten with 1 sc *, repeat from *-* until bottom of other side of armhole, there should be 18-19-20-21-22 ch-spaces in total.
Turn and continue with 2ND ROW in PATTERN 1 (= 17-18-19-20-21 large ch-spaces on row + ch-space used when turning).
When piece measures 2 cm / 3/4'', dec 1 large ch-space at the end of next row, this is done by working until 2 large ch-spaces remain, ch 5, skip first ch-space and work 1 sc in middle ch on last ch-space.
Repeat dec every 4-3-3-2-2 cm / 1½"-1 1/8"-1 1/8"-3/4"-3/4" (dec alternately in the right and left side) until 11-11-13-13-15 large ch-spaces remain + ch-space used when turning.
When sleeve measures 24-21-18-15-13 cm / 9½"-8 1/4"-7"-6"-5 1/8" (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders), work next row as follows: ch 5, 1 sc in middle ch on first ch-space, * ch 5, 1 sc in middle ch on next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the rest of row.
Work next row as follows: 4 sc in every ch-space and 3 sc in last ch-space on row = 47-47-55-55-63 sc.
Work next row as follows: ch 3, skip the first 2 sc, in next sc work 1 dc + ch 3 + 1 dc, * skip 2 sc, work 1 dc in each of the next 3 sc, skip 2 sc, in next sc work 1 dc + ch 3 + 1 dc *, repeat from *-* until 4 sc remain, skip 3 sc and work 1 dc in last sc, turn piece.
Continue PATTERN 2 (beg on 2nd row) – see explanation above! There will be a total of 6-6-7-7-8 repetitions on row.
When diagram M.2 has been worked for approx. 12 cm / 4¾'' (finish after 2nd or 4th row in pattern), work next row as follows: * ch 3, skip 1 st (either 1 dc or 1 ch), 1 sc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the rest of row, cut the yarn.

ASSEMBLY:
Work sleeve seams tog the same way as on shoulders.

BANDS AND NECK EDGE:
Work 1 sc row up along right band, around the neck and down along left band - make sure that sc row neither tightens nor widens the edges. There should be approx. 16 sc on 10 cm / 4''.
Turn and work 1 row with 1 sc in every sc - when finished around the neck and beg down right front piece work as follows: 1 sc in first sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc (= button hole), continue with sc down along the rest of front piece. Turn and work 1 sc row – work 2 sc in ch-space. Fasten off. Sew on button.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 07.11.2016
PATTERN 2 (also see diagram M.2)
ROW 5: 3 ch, skip 2 dc, * in next dc work 1 dc + 3 ch + 1 dc, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, skip 1 dc *, repeat from *-* until 4 dc remain, in next dc work 1 dc + 3 ch + 1 dc, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in 3rd ch from beg of previous row.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = 1 sc
symbols = ch 1
symbols = 1 sc in middle ch on ch-space, ch 2, 1 sl st in same ch as sc
symbols = 1 dc
symbols = crochet direction
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (138)

country flag Kitty wrote:

Ik ben bezig met rechter voorpand. Daar staat dat ik vanaf de 3e toer moet minderen, maar is dat niet veel te vroeg? Als ik op de foto van het vestje kijk, is het ongeveer toer nr 10 waar er pas geminderd word, naast het knoopje. Ik snap het niet.

09.09.2023 - 18:53

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Kitty,

Je splitst het werk bij een hoogte van 12-13-14-15-16 cm. Je hebt dan al die lengte aan boogjes. Daarna ga je minderen voor de hals als je op een derde toer in het telpatroon bent.

13.09.2023 - 20:44

country flag Byzantine Dixie wrote:

I am almost done with my 3rd iteration of this pattern. Like others I thought it was going to be way too big. I am a US 2-3x. So instead of making the largest size I made the middle one. Frankly, that was a little too small. So I went up to the size between the middle and the largest and that size is perfect. I make the top portion as instructed by the pattern but add different stitches to the bottom portion and make the sleeves hit at the elbow. I LOVE THIS PATTERN! Thank you!

26.06.2023 - 19:16

country flag Inge S wrote:

Hallo, ik ben bezig met het haken van maat S en heb een probleem met de voorpanden. Klopt het dat je vanaf de derde rij M.1 over moet schakelen op M.3 en zo minderen tot 6 grote lussen? Dan is dat meteen een grote overgang. Is dat dan juist?

11.11.2022 - 23:45

country flag Dawn wrote:

Is Yarn Group B equivalent to 4-weight (worsted)? I'm using a 4 -weight cotton yarn with a 4.25mm hook (smaller hook than noted in the pattern). I was expecting to make a size large, but that seems much too big (my 262 chain is about 68" (172cm) long). If I understand this pattern correctly, it is worked from the bottom up. So that first chain will go around my hips. Right? I saw that another person had a similar problem & made a small. I may need to do the same. Thanks.

16.06.2022 - 04:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Dawn, this pattern is worked with DROPS Muskat = dk/worsted yarn with a gauge of 5 large ch-spaces of PATTERN 1 = 10 cm / 4'' in width and 2.5 repetitions of PATTERN 2 = 10 cm / 4'' in width . Remember to check your gaughe! Then note that you will crochet more chain stitches that you are supposed to get sc at the end of first row = 255 sc (over 262 ch). Just remember to check and keep your tension to get the correct finished measurements. Happy crocheting!

16.06.2022 - 09:53

country flag Rianne wrote:

Ik kan bij de mouw niet zien wat de breedte is van het stuk dat in een ander patroon is aangehaakt

14.04.2022 - 19:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Rianne,

Telpatroon 2 wordt over de laatste 12 cm van de mouw gehaakt.

20.04.2022 - 09:41

country flag Corine wrote:

Hallo, ik ben vol enthousiasme begonnen voor de kleinste maat (187) lossen, met naald 4,5 maar het werk werd echt gigantisch! Nu ben ik een proeflapje aan het haken met naald 3,5 maar nog steeds heb ik met 5 lussen 15 cm en niet 10. Ik probeer zo strak mogelijk te haken , maar kleiner lukt echt niet. Klopt het wel? Ps ik gebruik Muskat. Graag hulp 🙏

23.03.2021 - 00:18

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Corine,

Je kunt eventueel nog een kleinere naald nemen, maar heb je het werk ook een beetje opgerekt in de hoogte, zodat het minder breed wordt en hoger? Dat gebeurt waarschijnlijk ook in de praktijk bij het dragen van het vestje.

08.04.2021 - 09:43

country flag Diane wrote:

Hoe doe je spiegelbeeld haken..moet je dan in de 4de naald minderen of..? En hoe doe je dat met de grote lussen EN de keerlus want als je de middelste 17 lussen hebt voor de rug heb je in principe 9 lussen voor de rechtse voorkant en 10 lussen voor de linkerkant..de keerlus telt dan toch ook mee..houd in dat de ene kant toch breder wordt

11.08.2020 - 10:44

country flag Jolanda Canton wrote:

Hoe los ik dit op? In mijn stekenproef heb ik bij 5 lussen patroon 1 maar 8 cm, echter na 2,5 x patroon 2 heb ik 12,5 cm!

25.07.2020 - 01:08

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Jolanda,

Je zou kunnen kiezen om verschillende naalddiktes te gebruiken bij de verschillende patronen.

02.08.2020 - 20:14

country flag Kupiec wrote:

Bonjour, je ne comprend pas les diminutions pour les manches, comptez-vous les 5 mailles en l'air du début du tour quand vous marquez deux grands arceaux pour faire la diminution en fin de rang ou non, de plus si je fais comme marqué " quand il reste deux grands arceaux faire 5ml, sauter le premier arceau, 1ms dans le deuxième" je me retrouve avec un gros trou. Si vous pouviez mettre un schéma ou une explication plus claire, merci

24.07.2020 - 20:10

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Kupiec, les diminutions vont se faire en fin de rang, crochetez comme avant jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 2 grands arceaux de 5 ml à faire et au lieu de continuer comme avant (= on aurait normalement encore 2 grands arceaux à faire), vous n'allez en faire qu'un: 5 ml (= comme avant pour un grand arceau), puis vous sautez l'arceau suivant (= le 1er des 2 derniers arceaux du rang), et vous crochetez 1 ms dans la ml au milieu du dernier arceau. Bon crochet!

29.07.2020 - 09:56

country flag Monika wrote:

Mam problem z rozpoczęciem robótki we wzorze R-613. Nie rozumiem zapisu "1 oś 2 każde z 3-5-1-2-4 nast. oł" Ile ma być oczek ścisłych ?

02.07.2020 - 23:23

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Moniko! Przerabiasz po 1 oś w każde z 3-5-1-2-4 następnych oczek łańcuszka (to zależy od rozmiaru, który wykonujesz, np. w rozmiarze XS/S wykonasz po 1 oś w każde z 3 następnych oczek łańcuszka). Pozdrawiamy!

03.07.2020 - 21:37