DROPS Alpaca Bouclé
DROPS Alpaca Bouclé
80% Alpaca, 15% Wool, 5% Polyamide
from 5.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 30.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Fields of Gold

Knitted DROPS jumper with short sleeves and shawl collar in ”Alpaca Bouclé”. Size S-XXXL.

DROPS 138-10
DROPS design: Pattern no AB-016
Yarn group C
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 112-120-128-138-150-162 cm / 44"-47 1/4"-50½"-54 1/4"-59"-63 3/4"
Full length front: 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm / 22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''
Full length back: 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm / 25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''

Materials:
DROPS ALPACA BOUCLÉ from Garnstudio
300-300-350-350-400-450 g color no 0100, off white

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca Bouclé
DROPS Alpaca Bouclé
80% Alpaca, 15% Wool, 5% Polyamide
from 5.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 30.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.

INCREASE TIP 1 (applies to sleeve):
All inc are done from RS.
Inc 1 st inside 3 edge sts in garter st by making 1 YO. On next row P YO twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP 2 (applies to shawl collar):
Inc inside outermost st in garter st towards mid front by making 1 YO. On next row K YO twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (applies to neckline at the front):
Dec inside 10 sts in garter st + sts inc for collar.
All dec are done from RS.
Dec as follows after st in garter st: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec as follows before st in garter st: K 2 tog.
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BACK PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth on circular needle because of no of sts. The jumper is 6 cm / 2 3/8'' longer in the back than in the front with vents each side.
Loosely cast on 96-102-108-118-128-138 sts on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with Alpaca Bouclé. Work 2 rows in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Then work in stockinette st with 3 edge st in garter st in each side (for vents).
When piece measures 20 cm / 8'', finish vents and cast on 1 new st in each side for seam = 98-104-110-120-130-140 sts. Then work in stockinette st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. When piece measures 42-43-44-45-46-47 cm / 16½''-17''-17¼''-17¾''-18''-18½'', bind off 1 edge st in each side = 96-102-108-118-128-138 sts. Now work in garter st over the outermost 3 sts in each side (continue the other sts in stockinette st).
AT THE SAME TIME inc for sleeve in each side as follows – READ INCREASE TIP 1: Inc 1 st on every row from RS a total of 9 times = 114-120-126-136-146-156 sts. Continue in stockinette st with 3 sts in garter st in each side.
When piece measures 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm / 24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8'', bind off the middle 16-16-18-20-20-22 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Then bind off 1 st on next row from neck = 48-51-53-57-62-66 sts remain on the shoulder. Continue as before and loosely bind off when piece measures 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm / 25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as back piece but when piece measures 14 cm / 5½'', finish vents at the front and cast on 1 new st in each side for seam = 98-104-110-120-130-140 sts. Then work in stockinette st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side.
When piece measures 33-35-36-37-38-39 cm / 13"-13 3/4"-14 1/4"-14½"-15"-15 1/4", work 2 rows in garter st over the middle 10 sts on row, beg from RS (work the other sts in stockinette st with edge st in garter st). Then K 1 row over all sts (from RS). Now slip the first 44-47-50-55-60-65 sts that were worked, on a stitch holder for left front piece = 54-57-60-65-70-75 sts remain on needle for right front piece.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING:
Continue in stockinette st with edge st in garter st but now work the outermost 10 sts towards mid front in garter st. AT THE SAME TIME inc for shawl collar as follows – READ INCREASE TIP 2: Inc 1 st on every other row a total of 4 times and then on every 4th row a total of 4 times (= 18 sts in garter st for collar).
AT THE SAME TIME on next row from RS (after the piece has been divided), dec for V-neck as follows – READ DECREASE TIP: Dec 1 st on every 4th row a total of 4-4-5-6-6-7 times.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm / 14¼''-14½''-15''-14 1/4''-15¾''-16 1/8'', dec edge st in the side as on back piece. Now work in garter st over the outermost 3 sts towards the side (work the other sts as before). AT THE SAME TIME inc for sleeve in the side as on back piece. After all inc and dec, 66-69-71-75-80-84 sts remain on needle. Continue in stockinette st with 3 sts towards the armhole and the shawl collar in garter st. When piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm / 22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾'', loosely bind off the outermost 48-51-53-57-62-66 sts at beg of row from the side (= from WS) for shoulder, work the rest of row and slip the remaining 18 sts on a stitch holder for shawl collar.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Slip the 44-47-50-55-60-65 sts from stitch holder on left front piece back on needle. Knit in addition up 10 sts towards mid front - knit up from WS 1 st in each of the 10 sts in garter st mid front = 54-57-60-65-70-75 sts. Then work as right front piece but reversed.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew the side seams inside 1 edge st, leaving vents each side at the bottom open.

SHAWL COLLAR: Slip the 18 sts in garter st from stitch holder on one front piece back on needle size 5 mm / US 8 and work in garter st as follows (1st row = RS): * K 2 rows over all sts, K 2 rows over the outermost 12 sts towards the neck (the other sts on row are not worked) *, repeat from *-* until collar measures approx. 7-7-8-8-8-9 cm / 2 3/4"-2 3/4"-3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3½" from the shoulder (measured on the most narrow part), slip sts on a stitch holder. Repeat in the other side and sew the neck edge tog mid back with grafting/kitchener sts.
Sew neck edge to neck line in the back of neck (seam should be in towards WS).

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (28)

country flag Sari wrote:

Oikea etukappale kohta ohjeessa on järkyttävän huonosti ohjeistettu. Samalla sitä ja samalla tätä, kavennetaan ja lisätään. Kohta olisi pitänyt ohjeistaa rivi riviltä (kuten esim. pitsineulesukissa) eikä noin summittaisesti.

25.09.2023 - 15:43

country flag Astrid De Laat wrote:

Beste, bij de sjaalkraag geeft u aan dat 12 steken gebreid worden wat doe ik met de 4 overige steken?

15.07.2023 - 10:36

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Astrid,

Je breit 2 naalden alleen over de buitenste 12 steken. Dus je begint met breien tot je 12 steken hebt gebreid. Dan keer je het werk (terwijl er dus nog steken op je linker naald zitten die niet gebreid zijn) en brei je terug over de 12 steken. Je hebt nu een extra ribbel over alleen die 12 steken gemaakt.

18.07.2023 - 21:06

country flag Gertruud Dijkstra wrote:

Voorpand: als ik thv de kraag eerste 44 steken op een hulpdraad zet, dan brei ik toch verder met een pen averecht over de overgebleven steken van het linker voorpand? lins gezien vanaf als ik de trui aan zou hebben? in het patroon staat verder breien met het rechter halsdeel?

03.04.2022 - 18:40

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Gertruurd,

Nadat je 1 naald recht aan de goede kant hebt gebreid, zet je de steken van het linker voorpand (gezien als het kledingstuk gedragen wordt) op een een hulpdraad. Je breit dan het rechter pand verder en de eerste naald is dus op de verkeerde kant, inderdaad in averecht. Maar de 10 steken midden voor brei je in ribbelsteek. Dat zijn dus de laatste 10 steken aan de verkeerde kant en de eerste 10 steken als je aan de goede kant bent.

04.04.2022 - 11:37

country flag Carina wrote:

Hej undrar om halsen, är det mot bakstycket eller mot halsen som man ska sticka de 12 maskorna, tacksam för svar mvh Carina

19.07.2020 - 00:11

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Carina, er det de yderste 12 masker i sjalskraven du mener. Hvis ja så er det de yderste mod midt foran :)

29.07.2020 - 15:39

country flag Katie wrote:

Which is the "right" or outer side? The knit side or the purl? I can't tell from the picture and the pattern doesn't specify. Thanks.

29.01.2018 - 16:33

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Katie, the right side will be the knit side. Happy knitting!

29.01.2018 - 17:08

country flag Helle Arrøe wrote:

Jeg er i tvivl om om ud og indtagningerne på forstykkerne. Udtagningerne til sjalskraven er det efter at have strikket 1 maske og er indtagningerne efter at have strikket de 10 retmasker?

08.07.2016 - 22:49

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Helle. Ja, det er korrekt.

22.11.2016 - 15:54

country flag Catherine.CLAIRAMBAULT wrote:

Bonjour, Je réalise actuellement le modèle DROPS 138-10 et je suis bloquée à la phase de l'aasemblage du col. Je ne visualise pas comment "coudre le col au milieu dos en grafting" ni "assembler le col à l'encolure dos". Un grand merci par avance à toutes les personnes qui me donneront leurs conseils

20.05.2014 - 19:17

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Clairambault, assemblez chaque demi-col (devant gauche+ devant droit) ensemble, puis cousez le col à l'encolure dos. Voici un exemple en vidéo de ce type de col (sans les rangs raccourcis que vous avez fait, mais c'est la même idée). Bon tricot!

21.05.2014 - 08:29

country flag Katherine wrote:

J'adopte et je vais essayer de la faire rapidement pour cet été

03.06.2012 - 16:20

country flag Gunvor B wrote:

Mycket fin och praktisk vårtröja.

27.02.2012 - 10:16

country flag Abuela wrote:

Tyylikäs ja sopivan väljä ja helppo malli. Kiva kaula-aukko.

26.02.2012 - 06:05