DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 1.45 $ /50g
DROPS Cotton Viscose
DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 77-20
Sizes: XS - S/M - L - XL
Finished measurements: 82-96-110-124 cm
[32.25" - 37.75" - 43.25" - 48 7/8"]
The rib pattern pulls the garment in so that it will appear narrower than the measurements on the diagram.

Materials: DROPS SAFRAN,
100% cotton, 50 g/160 m./174 yards
200-250-250-300 gr nr 03, mint green.

and use: DROPS COTTON-VISCOSE,
54% Egyptian cotton, 46% viscose, 50 g./110 m./120 yards
300-350-350-400 gr nr 02, natural.

Alternate yarns:
Either of the yarns above may be substituted for each other. In addition, any of the yarns below may be substituted for either of the yarns above.
* DROPS SILKE-TWEED, 52% silk, 48% lambswool, 50 g./200 m./218 yards
* DROPS SILKE, 100% silk, 50 g./200 m./218 yards

Alternately, you may use either of the yarns below single strand in place of both yarns above:
* DROPS PARIS, 100% cotton, 50 g/75 m./82 yards
* DROPS ALASKA, 100% pure new wool, 50 g/75 m./82 yards

DROPS 4 mm [US 6] and 5.5 mm [US 9] circular needles and 5.5 mm [US 9] double-pointed needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 1.45 $ /50g
DROPS Cotton Viscose
DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Gauge: 16 sts x 20 rows with 1 strand Safran and 1 strand Cotton Viscose = 10 x 10 cm on larger needles in stockinette st.

Increasing tips: To avoid holes, inc by pulling up sts from the previous row.

Body: Cast on 132-154-176-198 sts on larger circular needles with 1 strand Safran + 1 strand Cotton Viscose; join and place a marker at the join. Knit rib = * P 5, K 6 * over all sts.
When the piece measures 37-38-39-40 cm knit the next row as follows: put 7 sts on a st holder for armhole (start with the last K st from previous row, so your held sts will be: K 1, P 5, K 1), 59-70-81-92 sts (= front), put 7 sts on a st holder for armhole (start with the last K st from previous row, so your held sts will be: K 1, P 5, K 1), 59-70-81-92 sts (= back). Note: for sizes S and L there will be P 5 at center front and center back and for sizes M and XL there will be K 6 at center front and center back. Lay piece aside and knit the sleeve.

Sleeve: Cast on 45-45-54-54 sts on larger double-pointed needles with 1 strand Safran + 1 strand Cotton Viscose; join and place a marker at the join. Knit rib = * K 5, P 4 * over all sts. When the piece measures 6 cm dec all P 4 to P 3 = 40-40-48-48 sts. When the piece measures 12 cm dec all K 5 to K 4 = 35-35-42-42 sts. When the piece measures 20 cm inc all K 4 to K 5 again - see increasing tips = 40-40-48-48 sts. When the piece measures 28 cm inc all P 3 to P 4 = 45-45-54-54 sts. When the piece measures 36 cm inc all K 5 to K 6 = 50-50-60-60 sts. When the piece measures 44 cm inc all P 4 to P 5 = 55-55-66-66 sts.
When the piece measures 46 cm put 7 sts at marker on a st holder (this should be K 1, P 5, K 1 – you do need to have this st pattern; you do not need to have these exactly at the marker) = 48-48-59-59 sts remain. Lay piece aside and knit another sleeve.

Yoke: Put the sleeves in on the same circular needles as Body where sts have been put on a st holder for armhole = 214-236-280-302 sts. Put a marker in each transition between the sleeves and Body (4 markers). Continue with the rib as established - at the same time K 2 tog at each side of the 4 markers every row a total of 2 times (= 16 sts decreased) = 198-220-264-286 sts. When the piece measures 39-40-41-42 cm start yoke shaping.
1st dec row: Dec all P 5 to P 4 = 180-200-240-260 sts.
2nd dec row: When the piece measures 43-44-45-46 cm dec all K 6 to K 5 = 162-180-216-234 sts.
3rd dec row: When the piece measures 47-48-49-50 cm dec all P 4 to P 3 = 144-160-192-208 sts.
4th dec row: When the piece measures 50-52-53-54 cm dec all K 5 to K 4 = 126-140-168-182 sts.
5th dec row: When the piece measures 53-55-57-58 cm dec all P 3 to P 2 = 108-120-144-166 sts.
Neck: When the piece measures 54-56-58-60 cm put 18-20-18-20 sts at center front on a st holder for the neck. Then bind off 2 sts at each neck edge every other row 2 times.
6th dec row: At the same time when the piece measures 55-57-59-61 cm dec all K 4 to K 3.
68-77-98-117 sts remain on needles. Continue the rib until the piece measures 56-58-60-62 cm. Now change to smaller needles, pick up sts on st holder (18-20-18-20 sts) + 4 sts each side of st holder where sts were bound off = 94-105-124-145 sts.Join and knit 1 row rib as follows (read entire section before knitting):
Start after the 4 sts picked up after sts on st holder. Dec all K 3 to K 2, knit the 4 sts picked up on right side of st holder as follows:
Sizes S and L: P 2, K 2
Sizes M and XL: K 2, P 2.
Dec K 4 to K 3 over the center 18-20-18-20 sts and knit the 4 sts picked up on left side of st holder as follows:
Sizes S and L: K 2, P 2
Sizes M and XL: P 2, K 2
= 78-87-102-119 sts. Continue with the rib for 2 cm, then bind off in rib. The piece measures approx. 58-60-62-64 cm to shoulder.

Assembly: Weave the opening under the sleeve so that it will be elastic.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 25.10.2016
YOKE:
Continue with the rib as established - at the same time K 2 tog at each side of the 4 markers every row a total of 2 times (= 16 sts decreased) = 198-220-264-286 sts. When the piece measures 39-40-41-42 cm start yoke shaping.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (22)

country flag Georgia wrote:

Pourquoi l’échantillon a réaliser est en jersey et non en côtes comme le modèle ? Cela ne risque -t-il pas de nous induire en erreur ou s’agit-il d’une erreur d’édition ? Vous en remerciant par avance pour votre réponse

04.11.2023 - 10:36

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Georgia, nos échantillons sont très souvent indiqués en jersey, si vous avez le bon échantillon et que vous tricotez avec cette même tension, alors vous devriez obtenir les bonnes mesures, comme dans le schéma. Bon tricot!

06.11.2023 - 08:09

country flag Tanja wrote:

Hallo, ich stricke zum ersten Mal einen Raglanpullover in Runden von unten. Ich bin mittlerweile am Halsausschnitt angekommen und frage mich, ob ich nach Stillegen der vorderen Mittelmaschen den Ausschnitt in Runden weiterstricken kann oder nun Hin- und Rückreihen stricken muss. Dies wird leider in der Anleitung nicht deutlich und es gibt auch kein Erklärvideo. Ich hoffe auf eine schnelle Antwort. :)) Schon einmal vielen Dank.

17.11.2021 - 17:50

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Tanja, die Passe wird in Runden gestrickt bis die mittleren Maschen für den Halsausschnitt stillgelegt werden, dann stricken Sie in Hin- Und Rück-Reihen weiter, dh abwechslungsweise von der Vorder- und von der Rückseite, Beginn der Reihen ist nach den stillgelegten Maschen und dann werden Maschen am Anfang jeder Reihe beidseitig für den Hals abgekettet. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

18.11.2021 - 08:25

country flag Ellen wrote:

Das ist die perfekte Anleitung für mich! Gibt es sowas auch für einen Jungenpullover Etwa 10-14 Jahre Oder als Kinder Ausführung???

01.05.2021 - 18:19

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Ellen, hier haben Sie so ein ähnliches Modell (aber mit Raglan), ab 12/14 Jahre; hier finden Sie alle unserer Anleitungen für Kinderpullover. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

03.05.2021 - 07:44

country flag Katarzyna wrote:

Czy planujecie wrócić do produkcji Cotton Viscose? A może przewidujecie coś podobnego? To bardzo ciekawy skład :) Czy jest jakiś zamiennik o podobnych właściwościach? Pozdrawiam serdecznie, Katarzyna

11.04.2021 - 02:18

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Kasiu, na razie nic mi o tym nie wiadomo. Ta włóczka jest z grupy włóczek A i możesz ją zastąpić przez DROPS Alpaca, Baby Merino, BabyAlpaca Silk, Delight, Fabel, Flora, Kid-Silk, DROPS Loves You 7, DROPS Loves You 9, Nord, Safran. Nie będzie to idealne połączenie i faktura ubrania nie będzie identyczna. Ja osobiście do zamiany wybrałabym Safran albo BabyAlpaca Silk, z naciskiem na tą ostatnią. Pozdrawiamy!

12.04.2021 - 09:18

country flag Ellen wrote:

Leider verstehe ichnicht wie das Muster der Ärmel ( 7 Maschen) mit dem Armausschnitten zusammen Passen soll ? Im Video ist kein Muster gestrickt .

04.04.2021 - 22:38

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Ellen, bei dem Armausschnitt beim Rumpfteil wie bei den Ärmeln legen Sie 1 M re, 5 M li, 1 M re (= 7 M) still - bei der Passe haben Sie dann an jedem Übergang: 5 M re, Markierung, 5 M re - nach den 2 Raglanabnahmmen haben Sie 3 M re, Markierung, 3 M re ( = 6 M re wie im Muster). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

06.04.2021 - 14:05

country flag Arlene wrote:

Thank you, I love this pattern and have made 3 sweaters for my granddaughters. I wonder if it is possible to make this "top down"? Is there such a pattern? I am not sure that I could figure it out.

21.03.2021 - 15:55

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Arlene, unfortunately we do not have the same sweater in top down format, however we have a number of topdown sweatera. here is a selection of them, please take a look, maybe you will find something you like. Happy Knitting!

21.03.2021 - 23:43

country flag MONICA wrote:

Hola. Escote: Talla L. ¿Una vez pasados los 18 pts a un gancho aux. la labor se trabaja de ida y vuelta? en plano, verdad? y despues al volver a recuperar los 18 pts del escote de nuevo se trabaja en circular? Gracias

08.02.2021 - 19:46

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Monica, tienes razon. Buen trabajo!

08.02.2021 - 20:58

country flag MONICA wrote:

Buenas noches. En las mangas cuando dice "dism todas las secciones de 4 r. a 3 r.", ¿entre qué puntos hay que hacer la disminucion? al principio, con el primer y segundo revés? Y lo mismo cuando dice "aum todas las secciones 3 r. a 4 r". ¿entre qué puntos hay que hacer el aumento? Gracias

23.01.2021 - 23:53

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Monica! Puedes hacer la disminucion al principio, con el primer y segundo revés. Augmenta los puntos al principio de cada seccion derecha. Buen trabajo!

25.01.2021 - 18:24

country flag Lory wrote:

È possibile lavorare il maglione con ferri singoli non circolari/?

20.01.2021 - 21:08

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Lory, può lavorarlo con i ferri dritti aggiungendo 1 maglia di vivagno per la cucitura. Buon lavoro!

20.01.2021 - 21:13

country flag Jenny Verkooyen wrote:

Er staat dat ik voor de panden en mouwen steken op een hulpdraad moet zetten, maar in de instructievideo zijn de steken afgekant. Dus mijn vraag is afkanten of op een hulpdraad zetten? Alvast bedankt voor de reactie.

01.10.2020 - 20:15

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Jenny,

In het patroon staat inderdaad dat je de steken op een hulpdraad moet zetten. In principe is het ook de bedoeling om het patroon daarbij te volgen. Maar in de nieuwe patronen wordt vaak aangegeven om de steken onder de mouw af te kanten. Bij de afwerking naai je dan het gaat onder de mouwen (oksel) dicht. Zelf vind ik het handiger werken met afkanten. Het kan dus beide.

10.10.2020 - 11:32