DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.30$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Lyrah

Knitted tunic in DROPS Merino Extra Fine, with pockets and yoke in seed st. Size children 3 to 12 years.

DROPS Children 22-10
DROPS design: Pattern no ME-002-bn
Yarn group B
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Size: 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years
Finished measurements:
Bust: 62-66-72-74-76 cm / 24 3/8"-26"-28 3/8"-29 1/8"-30"
Full length: 50-55-60-65-70 cm / 19 3/4"-21 5/8"-23 5/8"-25½"-27½"

Materials: DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
300-350-400-450-500 g color no 17, cerise

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 - for garter st.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3.5 mm/E/4 - for picot border.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.30$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
SEED ST:
ROUND 1: * K 1, P 1 *, repeat from *-*.
ROUND 2: K over P and P over K. Repeat 2nd round.

PICOT BORDER:
Work on hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 with Merino as follows: 1 sc in first st, * ch 3, 1 dc in first ch, skip 1 cm / 3/8'', fasten with 1 sc *, repeat from *-*. When working in the round, finish with 1 sl st in first sc (instead of working last sc).
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BODY:
Worked in the round on circular needle.
Cast on 198-210-228-234-240 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Merino. K 1 round, P 1 round, K 1 round, P 1 round, K 1 round and P 1 round. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and work in stockinette st.
REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 32-36-39-43-46 cm / 12½"-14 1/4"-15 1/4"-17"-18", work next round as follows: * K 4, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 165-175-190-195-200 sts. Work next round as follows: * K 3, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* = 132-140-152-156-160 sts. Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. P 1 round, K 1 round, P 1 round, K 1 round and P 1 round. Switch back to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6, K 1 round, then work in SEED ST until finished measurements – see explanation above! AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 37-41-45-49-53 cm / 14½"-16 1/8"-17 3/4"-19 1/4"-21", work next round as follows: bind off 6 sts for armhole, work 60-64-70-72-74 sts (= front piece), bind off 6 sts for armhole, work the rest of row (= back piece). Finish front and back piece separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 60-64-70-72-74 sts. Continue with seed st back and forth on needle – AT THE SAME TIME bind off for armholes at the beg of every row: 1 st 4-4-5-5-5 times in each side = 52-56-60-62-64 sts. When piece measures 48-53-58-63-68 cm / 19"-21"-22 3/4"-24 3/4"-26 3/4", bind off the middle 18-20-24-26-28 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately.
Then bind off on every row starting from neck: 1 st 2 times = 15-16-16-16-16 sts remain on shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 50-55-60-65-70 cm / 19 3/4"-21 5/8"-23 5/8"-25½"-27½".

FRONT PIECE:
= 60-64-70-72-74 sts. Bind off for armholes as on back piece. When piece measures 41-45-49-53-57 cm / 16 1/8"-17 3/4"-19 1/4"-21"-22½", bind off the middle 12-14-16-18-18 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Then bind off on every row starting from neck: 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 3-3-4-4-5 times = 15-16-16-16-16 sts remain on shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 50-55-60-65-70 cm / 19 3/4"-21 5/8"-23 5/8"-25½"-27½".

POCKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 18-18-20-20-22 sts on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. Work in seed st for 9-9-10-10-11 cm / 3½"-3½"-4"-4"-4½". Then K 1 row from RS and K 1 row from WS, then bind off with K sts from RS.
Crochet a PICOT BORDER – see explanation above, along both sides and bottom edge of pocket (not along bind off edge). Knit another pocket.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams.
Crochet a PICOT BORDER – see explanation above, around the armholes, along the entire neckline and at the bottom of body.
Place the pockets on front piece, approx. 12-13-14-15-16 cm / 4 3/4"-5 1/8"-5½"-6"-6 1/4" from cast on edge, and so that they are approx. 10-11-12-14-15 cm / 4"-4 3/8"-4 3/4"-5½"-6" apart. Sew in outermost sts in seed st inside crochet border so that the crochet border is loose on the outside of seam.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 24.09.2019
New yarn amount in size 11/12 years. DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio 300-350-400-450-550 g color no 17, cerise

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (19)

country flag Petra wrote:

Liebes Drops-Team, mit welcher Wolle und Farbe wurde die Strickhose angefertigt, die das Mädchen zu. Kleid, Drops-Children 22-10, trägt? Ich freue mich auf Ihre Antwort. Schöne Grüße aus Xanten Petra Körbes

30.11.2021 - 10:26

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Petra, die Strickhose wird mit DROPS Fabel Nr 310, sunset gestrickt - hier finden Sie die Anleitung. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

30.11.2021 - 16:40

country flag Cecilia wrote:

Divino patrón, muchas gracias. Lo hice en agujas rectas. Les agradezco si pueden dar las explicaciones para agujas rectas en otros patrones. Gracias!

16.11.2020 - 04:31

country flag Caja Harsdorf wrote:

Jeg har aldrig fået svar på mit spørgsmål. Det første svar var overhovedet ikke relevant, og det næste, har I ikke svaret på. Dårlig servece

18.09.2019 - 16:29

country flag Caja Harsdorf wrote:

Når jeg har brugt 100 gr. og kun har 9 cm. , kan jeg jo kun få strikket 45 cm, og skal strikke 49 inden jeg skal begynde at tage ind, så der vil da være en manko. Jeg har lavet strikkeprøve inden start, og den passede perfekt, så det er ikke der det er galt. Når I ser på mønstret, kan I så ikke regne ud, hvor meget jeg skal bruge mere. Med venlig hilsen Caja harsdorf

12.09.2019 - 20:54

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Caja, Vi har lagt et nøgle til i den største størrelse. God fornøjelse!

26.09.2019 - 15:57

country flag Caja Harsdorf wrote:

Jeg er begyndt at strikke denne model str. 11/12 år. Har købt 500 gr. garn merino extra fine. Strikkefastheden passer. Jeg har allerede brugt 100 gr. og har kun strikket 9 cm. Hvor meget mere skal jeg bruge. Jeg har strikket mange drops opskrifter, og aldrig tidligere oplevet, at garnmængden ikke har passet Med venlig hilsen Caja Harsdorf

11.09.2019 - 12:01

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Caja, Vi har ikke hørt at garnforbruget ikke skulle stemme... man tager ret så mange masker ind, når man kommer lidt op i mønsteret. Stemmer din strikkefasthed også i højden? Sig endelig til hvis du skulle få brug for mere, da skal vi få rettet garnforbruget.

12.09.2019 - 10:06

country flag Barbara Künzi wrote:

Danke für diese tolle Anleitung! Ich habe Probleme mit dem Röcklirand, er krangelt immer noch etwas hoch. Ich habe ihn flach gemacht, mit Stecknadeln versehen und ein feuchtes Tuch darauf trocknen lassen. Es ist nun viel besser, aber noch nicht gut. Nochmals das Gleiche machen, oder haben Sie einen anderen Tipp? Besten Dank und freundliche Grüsse Barbara Künzi

15.12.2018 - 11:01

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Künzi, Sie können den Rock mit Stecknadeln auf einer geeigneten Unterlage spannen, anfeuchten (z.B. mit einer Sprühflasche für Blumen) und trocknen lassen, danach entfernen Sie die Stecknadeln, dann sollte sich der Rand nicht mehr rollen. Viel Spaß beim spannen!

17.12.2018 - 09:42

country flag Mamina wrote:

Bonjour ce modèle peut il se tricoter avec 2 aiguilles ?puis je avoir les explications? merci

30.11.2018 - 06:19

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mamina, vous trouverez ici quelques informations pour ajuster un modèle sur aiguilles droites. Bon tricot!

30.11.2018 - 08:34

country flag Soheila Dashti wrote:

Hej! Jag förstår inte mig på den delen av förklaring. Alltså vad/hur man gör ? *4rm, 2rm tills* - ska man minska?

20.12.2016 - 09:53

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Soheila. Ja, du skal gentage: strik 4 r, strik 2 r samen (altsaa du strikker over 6 m og strikker de sidste 2 sammen = 5 m

20.12.2016 - 15:33

country flag Evelyne wrote:

Ik kan niet met een rondbreinaald breien; is het mogelijk dit patroon om te zetten in een patroon voor twee gewone breinaalden? Want het ziet er zo leuk uit dat ik het echt graag zou willen breien!

22.06.2016 - 14:26

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Evelyne. Wij hebben niet de mogelijkheid om een patroon aan te passen naar individuele wensen, maar kijk hier hoe je een patroon kan omzetten

23.06.2016 - 12:33

country flag Maria wrote:

Guten tag Ich stricke im Moment diese Tunika für meine kleine. Es ist mein zweites Strickprojekt und macht mir große Freude. Vielen Dank! Nun habe ich eine Frage zu den Abnahmen bei vorder- und Rückenteil: Werden diese nur bei den Hinreihen oder auch den Rückreihen gemacht? Vielen Dank für Ihre Antwort Maria

06.04.2016 - 07:34

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Maria, ketten Sie jeweils am Anfang der Reihe ab, also in Hin- und Rückreihen.

06.04.2016 - 09:37