DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.95 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.55$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

So Serene

Knitted DROPS jacket with textured pattern, wavy edge and ¾ sleeves in ”Muskat”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 128-2
DROPS design: Pattern no R-595
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 80-86-94-106-120-134 cm / 31½"-33 7/8"-37"-41 3/4"-47 1/4"-52 3/4"
Full length: 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm / 22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''

Materials: DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
Color no 76, sky blue:
450-500-550-600-650-700 g

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLES (80 cm / 32'') size 3.5 mm / US 4 - or size needed to get 22 sts x 30 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4'' and 18 sts in lace pattern (M.4) = width 10 cm / 4'' + an extra circular needle in the same size for cast on edge.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLES (60 cm / 24'') size 3 mm / US 2or3 - for neck edge.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTONS NO 521: 4-4-4-5-5-5 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.95 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.55$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 to M.4. The diagrams shows the pattern from RS.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sides of body):
All dec are done from RS. Adjust so that dec are done on a K row from RS.
Dec as follows before marker: K 2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

BUTTON HOLES:
bind off for button holes on right front band. 1 button hole = K tog third and fourth st from edge and make 1 YO.
bind off for button holes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 33, 37, 41 and 45 cm / 13", 14½", 16 1/8" and 17 3/4".
SIZE M: 33, 37, 42 and 47 cm / 13", 14½", 16½" and 18½".
SIZE L: 33, 38, 43 and 48 cm / 13", 15", 17" and 19".
SIZE XL: 33, 38, 42, 46 and 50 cm / 13", 15", 16½", 18" and 19 3/4".
SIZE XXL: 33, 37, 42, 46 and 51 cm / 13", 14½", 16½", 18" and 20".
SIZE XXXL: 33, 38, 43, 48 and 53 cm / 13", 15", 17", 19" and 21".
I.e. bottom button hole is approx. in the middle of M.3 and upper button hole is approx. 1 cm / 3/8'' from neckline.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front.
Cast on 301-325-349-385-421-469 sts (includes 6 band sts in each side towards mid front) on 2 circular needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Muskat - to avoid a tight cast on edge. Pull out one of the needles and work first row as follows from RS: 6 band sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above -, diagram M.1A (= 12 sts), M.1B over the next 264-288-312-348-384-432 sts, M.1C (= 13 sts) and finish with 6 band sts in garter st. Continue the pattern like this. After M.1, there are 205-221-237-261-285-317 sts on needle. Insert 2 markers in the piece; 54-58-62-68-74-82 sts in from each side (= 97-105-113-125-137-153 sts between markers on back piece). Then work M.2 (1st row = WS) with 6 band sts in each side towards mid front as before. NOTE! On 2nd row in M.2, K last st before front band at the end of row. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When piece measures approx. 10 cm / 4'' from bottom tip, dec 1 st on each side of both markers - READ DECREASE TIP! (= 4 sts dec). Repeat dec approx. every 6 cm / 2 3/8'' a total of 4 times = 189-205-221-245-269-301 sts. When M.2 has been worked a total of 3 times vertically (now piece measures approx. 31 cm / 12 1/4'' from bottom tip), work M.3 (1st row = WS) with 6 band sts in each side towards mid front.
AT THE SAME TIME on 2nd row (RS), dec 20 sts evenly (do not dec over band sts) = 169-185-201-225-249-281 sts. NOTE! Remember to bind off for BUTTON HOLES - see explanation above.
After M.3, P 1 row from WS (work band sts as before) while AT THE SAME TIME dec 13-17-21-21-21-29 sts evenly = 156-168-180-204-228-252 sts. Now remove the old markers and insert 2 new markers; 42-45-48-54-60-66 sts in from each side (= 72-78-84-96-108-120 sts between markers on back piece). Then work next row as follows from RS: 6 band sts, work M.4 over the next 144-156-168-192-216-240 sts and finish with 6 band sts. Continue the pattern like this. When piece measures 39-40-41-42-43-44 cm / 15¼''-15¾''-16 1/8''-16½''-17''-17¼'' from bottom tip (i.e. approx. 5-6-7-8-9-10 cm / 2"-2 3/8"-2 3/4"-3 1/8"-3½"-4" measured after M.3), bind off (on next row from WS) 4-6-6-6-6-6 sts in each side for armholes (i.e. 2-3-3-3-3-3 sts on each side of both markers). Finish each part separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 68-72-78-90-102-114 sts. Continue in pattern as before (NOTE! work the sts in each side that do not fit the pattern in stockinette st). AT THE SAME TIME bind off and dec for armholes at the beg of every row in each side as follows: 3 sts 0-0-0-0-0-1 time, 2 sts 0-0-0-3-6-6 times and dec 1 st 0-2-2-2-2-2 times = 68-68-74-74-74-80 sts remain on needle. Continue M.4 with 1 edge st in each side. When piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26'' from bottom tip (approx. 22-24-26-28-30-32 cm / 8 3/4"-9½"-10 1/4"-11"-11 3/4"-12½" measured after M.3), bind off the middle 32-32-32-32-38-38 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Continue to dec 1 st on next row from neck = 17-17-20-20-17-20 sts remain on the shoulder. Continue pattern with 1 edge st in each side until piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm / 22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''. Then bind off.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 40-42-45-51-57-63 sts. Continue pattern as before while AT THE SAME TIME dec at beg of every row from the side as on back piece = 40-40-43-43-43-46 sts remain on needle. Continue the pattern with 1 edge st towards armhole and 6 band sts as before. When piece measures 46-48-49-51-52-54 cm / 18"-19"-19 1/4"-20"-20½"-21 1/4" (approx. 12-14-15-17-18-20 cm / 4 3/4"-5½"-6"-6 3/4"-7"-8" after M.3), slip the outermost 12 sts towards mid front on a stitch holder for neck (work sts before slipping them on the stitch holder to avoid cutting the thread). Continue to bind off and dec for neck at the beg of every row from mid front as follows: 2 sts 3-3-3-3-4-4 times and dec 1 st 5-5-5-5-6-6 times = 17-17-20-20-17-20 sts – NOTE! Work sts that do not fit the pattern in stockinette st when casting/binding off. After last dec, continue the pattern as before with 1 edge st in each side. Bind off when front piece is the same length as back piece.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as right front piece but reversed.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Cast on 99-99-99-111-111-111 sts (includes 1 edge st in each side) on 2 circular needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Muskat - to avoid a tight cast on edge. Pull out one of the needles and work first row as follows from RS: 1 edge st, M.1A (= 12 sts), M.1B over the next 72-72-72-84-84-84 sts, M.1C (= 13 sts) and finish with 1 edge st. Continue the pattern like this. After M.1, there are 67-67-67-75-75-75 sts on needle. Then work M.2 with 1 edge st in each side while AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row, dec 6-4-2-6-4-2 sts evenly = 61-63-65-69-71-73 sts. When M.2 has been worked one time vertically, work M.3 (1st row = WS). AT THE SAME TIME on 2nd row in M.3, inc 4-4-4-6-6-6 sts evenly = 65-67-69-75-77-79 sts. And AT THE SAME TIME on last row in M.3, dec 3-2-1-4-3-2 sts evenly = 62-65-68-71-74-77 sts. After M.3, P 1 row from WS. Then continue with M.4 with 1 edge st in each side until finished measurements.
Size XL + XXL + XXXL: AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 19-19-18 cm / 7½"-7½"-7" from bottom tip, inc 1 st in each side. Repeat inc in each side every 1-½-½ cm / 3/8"-1/4"-1/4" a total of 3 times = 77-80-83 sts (NOTE! Work the inc sts in the pattern. Work the inc sts that do not fit the pattern in stockinette st until they fit the pattern).
ALL SIZES: When piece measures 25-25-25-24-22-20 cm / 9 3/4"-9 3/4"-9 3/4"-9½"-8 3/4"-8" (NOTE! Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and broader shoulder width), bind off 4 sts at the beg of the next 2 rows. Continue to bind off for sleeve cap at beg of every row in each side as follows: 2 sts 3-3-4-4-2-1 times and 1 st 1-2-1-4-13-16 times. Continue to bind off 2 sts in each side at beg of every row until sleeve measures approx. 30-31-31-32-33-33 cm / 11 3/4"-12 1/4"-12 1/4"-12½"-13"-13". Now bind off 4 sts at beg of the next 2 rows before binding off all sts. Knit another sleeve.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew underarm seams inside 1 edge st and sew in sleeves inside 1 edge st. Sew on buttons.

NECK EDGE:
Knit up from RS approx. 114 to 132 sts around the neck (incl sts on stitch holders at the front) on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 with Muskat. K 3 rows before loosely binding off with K from RS.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (118)

country flag Céline Blais wrote:

Bonjour , au début de ce gilet , je ne comprends pas la façon de débuter. M1A, M1B et M1C... se font-ils en même temps i.e. rg 1 de chacun, suivi du rg 2 de chacun etc.. est-ce bien cela ? Merci à l' avance.

26.03.2024 - 13:11

country flag Céline Blais wrote:

Bonjour, pour le début du gilet , je fais donc le 1er rg de M1A, M1B et M1C, ensuite les 2e rgs de M1a, M1B et M1C et ainsi de suite ? merci

26.03.2024 - 12:34

country flag Kerrie wrote:

Could you please tell me why M1A ends up with less stitches than M1C ? (Right front and Left front.). M1A 7 stitches…….M1C 10 stitches. ie there are more K2tog on A than C. Thank you for sharing.

13.10.2023 - 11:34

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kerrie, that's just the way to get the pattern symmetrical (there should be K3 before the first yarn over in M.1A and K3 after the last yarn over in M.1C - and there should be K5 between the yarn overs and the double decreases in the lace pattern. Just trust the diagrams. Happy knitting!

13.10.2023 - 15:26

country flag Matras wrote:

Bonjour, Arrivée pour réaliser les manches et je ne comprends pas les diminutions rabattre 4 mailles au début des 2 rangs suivants. Merci pour votre réponse.

21.09.2023 - 23:26

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Matras, vous devez rabattre les 4 premières mailles au début du rang suivant sur l'endroit, tricotez jusqu'à la fin du rang comme avant, tournez et rabattez les 4 premières mailles au début du rang suivant sur l'envers, tricotez le rang jusqu'à la fin. Ainsi, vous avez rabattu 4 mailles de chaque côté. Bon tricot!

22.09.2023 - 07:41

country flag Lindemann wrote:

Hallo , es wäre hilfreich wenn neben den Ableitungen die Zahlenreihen stehen würden . Wenn ich das Muster M4 so stricke wie angegeben , sieht es anders aus . Erste R Muster , zweite R ( Rückreihe links stricken ) . Dritte R alle M rechts und vierte R alle M links . Das haut nicht hin . Wo ist der Fehler 🤔 .

26.08.2023 - 12:57

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Lindemann, alle ungerade Reihen = Hin-Reihen werden rechts nach links (mit Lochmuster) gestrickt und alle gerade Reihen = Rückreihen links gestrickt. Bei der 1. Reihe stricken Sie: *3 M re, 1 Umschlag, 1 M. re. abheben, 2 re. zusammen, die abgehobene über die gestrickten ziehen, 3 M re, 1 Umschlag, 1 M. re. abheben, 2 re. zusammen, die abgehobene über die gestrickten ziehen*, und von *-* wiederholen; bei der 3. Reihe stricken Sie: *1 Umschlag, 1 M. re. abheben, 2 re. zusammen, die abgehobene über die gestrickten ziehen, 3 M re, 1 Umschlag, 1 M. re. abheben, 2 re. zusammen, die abgehobene über die gestrickten ziehen, 3 M re*. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

28.08.2023 - 13:46

country flag Stefania wrote:

I diagrammi mostrano solo la riga a diritto del lavoro? quando scrivete :"Quindi lavorare M.2 (1° riga = rovescio del lavoro) con 6 m. per lato verso il centro davanti come prima"....ma se si parte dal rovescio dovrei lavorare maglie a diritto e poi sul vero diritto eseguire il rovescio ma sulla foto si vede il lavoro a maglia rasata. com'è possibile

18.10.2022 - 14:56

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Stefania, il 1° ferro di M.2 è dal rovescio del lavoro, per cui lavorerà le maglie indicate a rovescio. Buon lavoro!

18.10.2022 - 19:09

country flag Stefania wrote:

I diamagrammi mostrano solo come lavorare le maglie a diritto?

18.10.2022 - 14:54

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Stefania, il diagramma mostra tutti i ferri, sia quelli dal diritto che dal rovescio del lavoro. Buon lavoro!

18.10.2022 - 19:03

country flag Stefania wrote:

Scrivete :"Quindi lavorare M.2 (1° riga = rovescio del lavoro) con 6 m. per lato verso il centro davanti come prima"....ma se si parte dal rovescio dovrei lavorare maglie a diritto e poi sul vero diritto eseguire il rovescio ma sulla foto si vede il lavoro a maglia rasata. com'è possibile

18.10.2022 - 12:51

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Stefania, il 1° ferro di M.2 è dal rovescio del lavoro, per cui lavorerà le maglie indicate a rovescio. Buon lavoro!

18.10.2022 - 19:09

country flag Tove Ridderberg wrote:

Hei jeg strikker på 128-2. Har strikket bolen og ermene . Men når jeg så sydde i det første erme viste det seg at det ikke er brått stort nok til ermålningen. Jeg holdt det til,men reglene kluss, og det ble og for trangt. Så kuplen er for liten i forhold til bolen. Hvordan løser jeg det, og jeg skjønner ikke at den er det,jeg har fulgt oppskriften og gjort alt som det står. Håper å få hjelp snarest, Hilsen Tove.

20.07.2022 - 22:25

country flag Teunie Noordam wrote:

Ik heb dit vest in maat xl gebreid maar kom 2 bolletjes te kort. Je hebt dus ipv 600 gram, 700 gram nodig. Jammer van de verzendkosten....?

10.05.2022 - 15:30