DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.10 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.30$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Diamonds Galore

Knitted DROPS jacket with lace pattern and shawl collar in "Paris". Size S-XXXL.

DROPS 130-41
DROPS design: Pattern no W-402
--------------------------------------------------------
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 80-88-96-106-118-130 cm / 31½''-34 5/8''-37¾''-41¾''-46½''-51''
Full length: 75-78-81-84-87-89 cm / 29½"-30 3/4"-32"-33"-34 1/4"-35"

Materials: DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
Color no 61, light peach: 650-700-800-850-950-1050 g

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') size 4.5 mm / US 7 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 32 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') size 5 mm / US 8 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

DROPS WOODEN BUTTONS NO 501: 3 pieces in all sizes.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.10 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.30$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

GARTER ST (in the round on double pointed needles): * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

MEASURING TIP:
Because of the weight of the yarn all measurements must be done by holding the piece up otherwise the garment will be too long when worn.

KNITTING TIP (applies to front bands):
To keep the band from contracting work short rows over band sts as follows: * Work back and forth only over the 8 band sts in garter st *, repeat from *-* after approx. every 16th row.

PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 and M.2. The diagram shows the pattern from RS.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc with 1 st by making 1 YO inside the outermost st in each side towards mid front. On next row K YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front) to avoid holes. Work the inc sts in garter st.

BUTTON HOLES:
bind off for button holes on right front band. 1 button hole = work 3rd and 4th st from mid front tog, make 1 YO. Bind off for button holes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 34, 43 and 52 cm / 13½", 17" and 20½".
SIZE M: 35, 44 and 53 cm / 13½", 17 1/4" and 21".
SIZE L: 36, 45 and 54 cm / 14 1/4", 17 3/4" and 21 1/4".
SIZE XL: 35, 45 and 55 cm / 13 3/4", 17 3/4" and 21 3/4".
SIZE XXL: 36, 46 and 56 cm / 14", 18" and 22".
SIZE XXXL: 36, 46 and 56 cm / 14", 18" and 22".
--------------------------------------------------------

JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. READ MEASURING TIP! Cast on 215-233-251-269-305-323 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with Paris. Work PATTERN - see explanation above - on 1st row from RS as follows: 8 sts in GARTER ST – see explanation above, M.1A, work M.1B a total of 10-11-12-13-15-16 times, M.1C and finish with 8 sts in garter st. Work front bands (= the 8 sts in garter st in each side) in garter st until finished measurements.
When M.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, 171-185-199-213-241-255 sts on needle. READ KNITTING TIP AND REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Continue to work as follows from RS: 8 band sts, M.2A, work M.2B a total of 10-11-12-13-15-16 times, M.2C and 8 band sts. Continue with this pattern vertically. NOTE! Remember to bind off for BUTTON HOLES - see explanation above. When piece measures 52-53-54-55-56-56 cm / 20½"-21"-21 1/4"-21 5/8"-22"-22", inc 1 st for collar towards mid front in each side - READ INCREASE TIP!
Repeat the inc every 6th row a total of 10-11-12-13-14-15 times.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures approx. 53-54-55-56-57-57 cm / 21"-21 1/4"-21 5/8"-22"-22½"-22½" (adjust after 1 whole repetition of M.2 and after 1st inc for collar) work in garter st over all sts, while AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row dec 19-21-19-17-25-19 sts evenly = 154-166-182-198-218-238 sts (do not dec over band sts). Insert 2 markers in the piece (after started working in garter st and 1st inc for collar), 43-46-50-54-59-64 sts in from each side (back piece = 68-74-82-90-100-110 sts). When piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-65 cm / 22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-25½'', bind off 6 sts for armholes in each side (bind off 3 sts on each side of marker). Finish each piece separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 62-68-76-84-94-104 sts. Continue to bind off for armholes at beg of every row in each side as follows: 2 sts 0-1-2-3-5-7 times and 1 st 0-1-2-3-3-3 times = 62-62-64-66-68-70 sts. When piece measures 73-76-79-82-85-87 cm / 28 3/4''-30''-31''-32 1/4''-33½''-34 1/4'', bind off the middle 14-16-18-20-22-24 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Continue to bind off 1 st on next row from neck = 23-22-22-22-22-22 sts remain on the shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 75-78-81-84-87-89 cm / 29½"-30 3/4"-32"-33"-34 1/4"-35".

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
bind off for armhole in the side as on back piece. AT THE SAME TIME continue to inc for collar towards mid front. When all dec and inc are done, there are 49-50-52-54-56-58 sts on needle. When piece measures 75-78-81-84-87-89 cm / 29½"-30 3/4"-32"-33"-34 1/4"-35", bind off the first 23-22-22-22-22-22 sts from RS for shoulder = 26-28-30-32-34-36 sts remain for collar. Work rest of row. Then work short rows over the collar sts as follows (beg from WS): * K back and forth over the outermost 13-14-15-16-17-18 sts towards mid front, K back and forth over all sts *, repeat from *-* until collar measures 7-8-9-9-10-10 cm / 2 3/4"-3 1/8"-3½"-3½"-4"-4" at the shortest side (measured from the shoulder). Bind off.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work as left front piece but reversed.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles/circular needle. Cast on 38-40-42-44-46-48 sts on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7 with Paris. Work in GARTER ST - see explanation above! Insert a marker at the beg of the round. When piece measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'', inc 1 st each side of marker. Repeat inc on each side of marker every 4-4-3½-3-2½-2½ cm / 1½"-1½"-1 1/4"-1 1/8"-7/8"-7/8" a total of 9-10-11-12-13-14 times = 56-60-64-68-72-76 sts. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 12 cm / 4¾'', switch to double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8. Then continue in stockinette st until finished measurements. When piece measures 48-48-48-47-45-44 cm / 19"-19"-19"-18½"-17 3/4"-17 1/4" (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder width) bind off 6 sts mid under sleeve (i.e. 3 sts on each side of marker). Then continue back and forth on circular needle while AT THE SAME TIME binding off for sleeve cap at the beg of row in each side as follows: 2 sts 2-3-3-3-3-3 times, 1 st 4-2-3-4-6-8 times, then bind off 2 sts in each side until piece measures 56-56-56-57-57-58 cm / 22"-22"-22"-22½"-22½"-22 3/4", then bind off 3 sts 1 time in each side. Bind off the remaining sts.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves. Sew collar tog mid back and sew in back of neck. Sew the buttons on to the left front band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = K from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = K 2 tog
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 130-41

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (52)

country flag Ann-Louise Vedelöv wrote:

Undrar om det ska stickas med stickor nr 5 även på själva koftan?

06.05.2023 - 21:38

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Ann-Louise Her er det kun på ermene der det strikkes glattstrikk at det skal brukes pinne str. 5, men husk å sjekke hva din strikkefasthet blir i forhold til det som er oppgitt. mvh DROPS Design

08.05.2023 - 13:45

country flag Le Terrier wrote:

Bonjour Comment tricoter les manches avec aiguilles droite car je ne sais pas tricoter aiguilles circulaire et double pointe Merci pour votre aide

17.12.2022 - 21:45

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Le Terrier, dans cette leçon, vous trouverez comment on peut adapter un modèle sur aiguilles droites. Bon tricot!

19.12.2022 - 09:25

country flag Elena Murphy wrote:

Is there an English translation and how do I buy this pattern, please?

15.02.2021 - 18:19

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Murphy, all our patterns are available in English, click on the scroll down menu below the photo and choose the appropriate language (either UK pattern using cm or US pattern with cm and inches). Happy knitting!

16.02.2021 - 10:05

country flag Sisko Ylönen wrote:

Hei! Nyt sitten lanka loppui. Jäi 1 ja 1/2 hihaa vaille. Nyt ongelmana lisälangan saaminen. Tilasin jo yhdestä paikasta, mutta tuli ihan väärää lankaa. Harmittaa kovin, kun kuitenkin olen tehnyt lähes kokonaan työn.

04.07.2020 - 13:09

DROPS Design answered:

Hei, sinun kannattaa hankkia langat samasta paikasta, josta ostit muut kerät. On tärkeää, että saat ostettua samaan värierään kuuluvia keriä, koska saman värin eri värierien sävyt voivat usein poiketa toisistaan. Jos samaan värjäyserään kuuluvaa lankaa ei enää ole saatavilla, voit neuloa molemmat hihat kokonaisuudessaan toisen värierän sävyllä. Tällöin eri sävyt eivät näy yhtä hyvin.

13.07.2020 - 14:38

country flag Sisko Ylönen wrote:

Hei! Ostin tähän ohjeeseen aivan oikeat langat. Kokoon L 800gr. Nyt olen neulonut etu-takakappaleita noin 40cm ja 8 kerä menossa. Jäljellä 8 kerää. Onko totta, että tuo lankamäärä riittää? Olen laskenut, että kainaloihin mennessä on jäljellä enää 4 kerää, jotka pitäisi riittää vielä hihoihinkin ja kaulukseen ja yläosaan. Onko ohjeessa lankamäärä oikein?

27.06.2020 - 13:02

DROPS Design answered:

Langanmenekki vaikuttaisi olevan oikea. Olethan tarkistanut neuletiheytesi?

17.11.2020 - 16:49

country flag Nina Papaioannou wrote:

Hi! I just read the instructions for knitting this beauty & I do not seem to find the point where I switch from no 4.5 needles to no 5. I pressume I change after M1 is worked vertically, am I right?

31.01.2019 - 14:34

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Nina, you use the 5 mm needles on the sleeves, after changing from garter stitch to stockinett stitch. Happy Knitting!

11.02.2019 - 21:03

country flag Deanna Bratcher wrote:

How do I handle the empty spaces in the diagram M.1 for DROPS 130-41 sweater? There is a C B and A section. My problem is not the boxes or dots or slashes or the YO boxes ... It's the area's where there is nothing... At the top of the third K from WS line. Thank you

16.04.2018 - 17:30

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Bratcher, in the 1st and 3rd row in diagrams, you will dec sts (= 1 st will be dec in A and C section, andn 2 sts will be dec in B section), The empty spaces match the decreased sts: On row 2 work only the sts with a black dot = these are the sts you have on needle (= 7 sts in A, 16 sts in B and 8 sts in C). Happy knitting!

17.04.2018 - 08:46

country flag Jette wrote:

Hej. Jeg vil gerne vide hvad jeg skal strikke i midten af M.1 B på 2., 3. og 4. række, da der ikke er nogle symboler? Hilsen Jette

09.08.2016 - 13:55

DROPS Design answered:

Hej. Det är minskningarna du gjort på tidigare omg så de hoppar du bara över. Lycka till!

11.08.2016 - 10:42

country flag Godelieve Loos wrote:

Goedenavond ,ik weet niet hoe ik de 2de rij moet breien . Eerst 8 st rechts dan ....en 14 st rechts . Waar de open blokjes op het patroon zijn weet ik niet hoe deze te breien . Help mij want het is een mooi vest . Dank u

16.05.2015 - 22:38

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Loos. Je volgt het patroon: 8 ribbelst, dan 2e rij van de teltekeningen (lees van links naar rechts) en eindigt met 8 ribbelst. De verklaring van de symbolen staat onderaan het patroon.

19.05.2015 - 15:16

country flag Eva Riheim wrote:

Många redan frågat, men jag blir ändå inte klok på mönstret i M1. Hur och var tar jag bort de 4 m som tydligen då skall bort mellan de 8 kantmaskorna och första rapporten? Känns som det saknas en minskning i varje ytterkant på varv 1 och 3. Gör XXL således 305-60=245 (vilket stämmer efter mönstret) medans beskrivning säger det skall vara kvar 241. Var avmaska efter kanten skall minskningen vara?

18.03.2015 - 14:30

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Minskningarna sker när du stickar tecknet för ”=lyft 1 m, 2 rm tills, drag den lyfta M över”, då minskas 2 m. På första varvet av M1 stickas det tecknet 16 gånger alltså minskas varvet med 32 m. På tredje varvet stickas det återigen 16 gånger dvs 32 m minskas på det varvet. Minskningarna sker alltså under varv 1 och 3 helt enligt diagram. När du har stickat M1 har du alltså minskat 64 m, 305-64=241. Lycka till!

13.05.2015 - 14:31