A Winter Tale

Knitted DROPS jacket with flounce border and hood in 1 thread ”Symphony” or 1 thread Melody or 1 thread ”Merino Extra Fine” + 1 thread ”Kid-Silk”. Size S-XXXL.

DROPS 120-2
DROPS design: Pattern no WW-032
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 80-88-96-104-120-136 cm / 31½"-34 5/8"-37 3/4"-41"-47 1/4"-53½"
Full length: 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm / 27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''-30¾''-31½

Materials: DROPS SYMPHONY from Garnstudio
color no 01, off-white: 800-900-1000-1100-1200-1300 g

Or:
DROPS MELODY from Garnstudio
400-450-500-550-600-650g colour no 01, off-white

Or:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
color no 01, off-white: 600-650-700-800-850-900 g
and: DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
color no 01, off-white: 150-175-200-225-225-250 g

Or:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
color no 0100 eco natur: 350-400-450-450-500-550 gr
and:: DROPS VIVALDI from Garnstudio
color no 06, natur: 250-250-300-300-350-350 g

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') size 6 mm/US 10 – or size needed to get 15 sts x 20 rows in stockinette st with 1 thread Symphony or 1 thread Melody or 1 thread Merino Extra Fine + 1 thread Kid-Silk (= 2 threads) or 1 thread Alpaca + 1 thread Vivaldi (2 threads) = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') size 5.5 mm/US 9 – for garter st.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, no 522: 3-3-3-3-4-4 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
MEASUREMENT TIP:
Because of the weight of the yarn make all measurements while the garment is hanging, otherwise it will be too long when worn.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.
GARTER ST (in the round): K 1 round, P 1 round.

PATTERN:
See diagram M.1. (= 6 sts). Diagram shows the pattern from RS.

BUTTONHOLES:
Make buttonholes on right front band. 1 buttonhole = bind off 4th front band st from mid front and cast on 1 new st on next row.
Make buttonholes when piece measures:
Size S: 46, 54, 62 cm / 18", 21 1/4", 20½"
Size M: 48, 56, 64 cm / 19", 22", 25 1/4"
Size L: 49, 57, 65 cm / 19 1/4", 22½", 25½"
Size XL: 50, 58, 66 cm / 19 3/4", 22 3/4", 26"
Size XXL: 51, 57, 63, 69 cm / 20", 22½", 24 3/4", 27 1/8"
Size XXXL: 50, 57, 64, 71 cm / 19 3/4", 22½", 25 1/4", 28"
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Knit with Symphony (as pictured) or 1 thread Melody .
Or use 1 thread Merino Extra Fine + 1 thread Kid-Silk or 1 thread Alpaca och 1 thread Vivaldi (= 2 threads)
Cast on 372-396-420-468-516-564 sts (includes 6 front band sts each side) on circular needle size 6 mm / US 10.
K 4 rows and continue in stockinette st. SEE MEASUREMENT TIP! REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When piece measures 9 cm / 3½'' work next row from RS as follows: 6 GARTER STS – see above - M.1 on all sts until 6 sts remain and work these in 6 garter st. The 6 garter sts each side = front bands, work these in garter st throughout. After 1 vertical repeat of M.1 there are 192-204-216-240-264-288 sts on needle. P 1 row from WS, K 8 rows and continue in stockinette st.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
When piece measures 45-46-47-48-49-50 cm / 17¾''-18''-18½''-19''-19¼''-19¾'' work next row from RS as follows: 6 garter sts, 7-7-8-8-11-14 stockinette sts, M.1 a total of 5-5-5-6-6-6 times, 16-22-26-26-33-40 stockinette sts, M.1 a total of 5-5-5-6-6-6 times, 14-14-16-16-20-24 stockinette sts, M.1 a total of 5-5-5-6-6-6 times, 16-22-26-26-33-40 stockinette sts, M.1 a total of 5-5-5-6-6-6 times, 7-7-8-8-11-14 stockinette sts, 6 garter sts. After 1 vertical repeat of M.1 like this there are 132-144-156-168-192-216 sts on needle. P 1 row from WS. Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm / US 9. Insert 2 markers in piece, 36-39-42-45-51-57 sts in from each side (back piece = 60-66-72-78-90-102 sts). Continue in garter st on all sts. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 46-48-49-50-51-50 cm / 18"-19"-19 1/4"-19 3/4"-20"-19 3/4" make BUTTONHOLES on right front band – see above! When piece measures 52-53-54-55-56-57 cm / 20½''-21''-21¼''-21 5/8''-22''-22½'' bind off 6 sts each side (= 3 sts each side of marker) and complete front and back pieces separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 54-60-66-72-84-96 sts. Bind off to shape the armhole each side at the beg of every row: 2 sts 1-1-2-3-4-6 times and 1 st 0-2-2-2-5-6 times = 50-52-54-56-58-60 sts. Continue in garter st. When piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm / 26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''-30¾'' bind off the middle 20-22-22-24-24-26 sts for neck and complete each shoulder separately. Bind off 1 st on neckline on next row = 14-14-15-15-16-16 sts left on shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm / 27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''-30¾''-31½.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 33-36-39-42-48-54 sts. Bind off for armhole at the side as described for back piece = 31-32-33-34-35-36 sts. When piece measures 63-65-67-68-70-72 cm / 24 3/4"-25½"-26 3/8"-26 3/4"-27½"-28 3/8" slip 11 sts towards mid front on a stitch holder. Bind off to shape the neckline at the beg of every row from mid front: 2 sts 3 times and 1 st 0-1-1-2-2-3 times = 14-14-15-15-16-16 sts left on shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm / 27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''-30¾''-31½.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Like left front piece, but mirrored. NOTE! Remember BUTTONHOLES!

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 34-34-36-36-38-40 sts on double pointed needles size 5.5 mm / US 9. Work GARTER ST – see above! Insert a marker at beg of round. When piece measures 12 cm / 4¾'' change to double pointed needles size 6 mm / US 10 and continue in stockinette st on all sts. When piece measures 13 cm / 5 1/8'' inc 1 st each side of marker and repeat the inc on every 6-4-3.5-3-2.5-2 cm / 2 3/8"-1½"-1 1/4"-1 1/8"-7/8"-3/4" a total of 6-8-9-11-12-12 times = 46-50-54-58-62-64 sts. When piece measures 47-47-47-46-45-43 cm / 18½''-18½''-18½''-18''-17¾''-17'' - NOTE! Less for the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder – bind off 6 sts mid under sleeve (= 3 sts each side of marker) and complete piece back and forth on needle. Bind off for sleeve cap each side at the beg of every row: 2 sts 1-2-2-2-2-1 times, 1 st 5-3-4-6-7-12 times, then 2 sts each side until piece measures 55-55-56-57-57-58 cm / 21 5/8"-21 5/8"-22"-22½"-22½"-22 3/4", now bind off 3 sts 1 time each side and bind off remaining sts. Piece measures approx 56-56-57-58-58-59 cm / 22"-22"-22½"-22 3/4"-22 3/4"-23 1/4".

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams. Set in sleeves. Sew on buttons.

HOOD:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Pick up 70-74-74-78-78-84 sts round neckline (includes sts on stitch holders) on circular needle size 5.5 mm / US 9. K 3 rows, then K 1 row, AT THE SAME TIME inc 14-14-14-16-16-18 sts evenly (do not inc on 6 sts each side over front bands) = 84-88-88-94-94-102 sts. Continue in garter st and bind off when hood measures 36-36-37-37-38-38 cm / 14 1/4"-14 1/4"-14½"-14½"-15"-15". Fold hood double and sew tog at the top.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = K2 tog
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (96)

country flag Daniela Picchi wrote:

Vorrei realizzare questo golfino con filato fabel e ferri n. 3/3.5..come calcolo il numero di maglie occorrenti per una taglia L/M? Grazie per la cortesia

23.08.2022 - 16:56

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Daniela, per un'assistenza così personalizzata può rivolgersi al suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia. Buon lavoro!

24.08.2022 - 15:27

country flag Anita wrote:

Salve! Mi piacerebbe realizzare il maglione, ma senza il volant sul fondo. Mi direste, per favore, quale è la parte riguardante il fondo arricciato? Così, semplicemente la elimino e concludo con un bordo dritto. Grazie molte della risposta!

26.11.2019 - 17:28

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Anita. La parte del volant è quella iniziale e termina con questa frase: Dopo 1 motivo di M.1 in altezza, rimangono 192-204-216-240-264-288 m sul f. Da qui vengono lavorati i ferri a legaccio (la fotografia può aiutarla) e poi prosegue a maglia rasata con le prime 6 e le ultime 6 maglie a legaccio. Buon lavoro!

26.11.2019 - 19:29

country flag Bourguignon wrote:

J'ai réalisé ce modèle dans un autre fil et je ne le regrette pas. Je porte ce long gilet pratiquement au quotidien en saison froide. J'aime le volant en bas et la capuche. Il est parfait.

05.02.2019 - 14:09

country flag Dixie J Houston wrote:

Do you ever write out a pattern row by row ?

26.07.2018 - 18:27

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Dixie, no the patterns are not written out row by row, because everyone's gauge might be slightly different and it is a lot easier to adjust the piece, and modify the pattern this way. Howevr more complicated rows are explained in details. If you still have problems making sense of a pattern do not forget that you can always ask for help in person in the store you bought your DROPS yarn from. Happy knitting!

27.07.2018 - 23:52

country flag Allinson Sherratt wrote:

Hi, when shaping the armhole you say cast off 2 sts each end of the row. Do you recommend a particular technique for this? Have searched your tutorials & not found anything. Thank you.

29.01.2017 - 00:23

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Sheratt, you cast off for armhole at the beg of every row on each side, ie every other row both from RS and from WS - see video below. Happy knitting!

30.01.2017 - 11:39

country flag Allinson Sherratt wrote:

Love this & am currently knitting it in Melody shade 08. Struggling a bit with the M1 bit, but with the help of Wool Warehouse, getting there. Thanks Rachel & others. Just when you think you're learning how to interpret Drops patterns, you get stuck. It won't put me off though as I love the designs & practice will win.............Ok that's an excuse to knit more.

25.01.2017 - 16:13

country flag Anja wrote:

Als Alternativgarn war nur die Melody angegeben. Merino würde ich gerne nehmen, sie hat aber eine komplett andere Lauflänge und Nadelstärke.

07.05.2016 - 11:16

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Anja, unter Material finden Sie Merino extra fine (in Kombination mit Kid Silk) als Alternative. Es wird viel weniger "haarig" als das Original oder als Melody. Wenn Sie einen ganz andere Textur wünschen, empfehlen wir, ein anderes Modell auszusuchen. Die Textur ist Teil des Designs.

09.05.2016 - 20:38

country flag Anja wrote:

Würde diese süße Jacke gerne stricken, mag aber keine "Mohair" Wolle. Gibt es noch andere alternative Wolle?

06.05.2016 - 11:22

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Anja, Sie finden unter Material die alternativen Garnvorschläge, MERINO EXTRA FINE zum Beispiel ist eine ganz glatte Wolle.

07.05.2016 - 07:55

country flag Margareta G. wrote:

Liebes Team! Ich stricke mit Drops "Melody" diese Jacke in Gr. S! Nach 9 cm ist von der Vorderseite wie folgt zu stricken: 6 M. Krausrippe (= Blendenm.), M1 über alle M. bis noch 6 M. übrig sind = Blendenm. M1 ist einmal in der Höhe zu stricken und es müssten folglich 192 M. auf der Nadel sein! Frage: Wenn ich M1 einmal in der Höhe stricke, habe ich mehr M. auf der Nadel! Könnte hier das Diagramm nicht richtig übertragen worden sein? Sind 192 M. inkl. der Blendenm. oder exkl.

04.10.2015 - 14:32

DROPS Design answered:

Sie haben ja 372 M angeschlagen. je 6 M sind für die Blenden, bleiben 360 M für das Muster. In der ersten R von M.1 stricken Sie jede 5. und 6. M zusammen, d.h. Sie nehmen in dieser R 60 M ab. Bleiben 300 M + 12 Blenden-M übrig. In der 3. R von M.1 nehmen Sie in der ganzen R 120 M ab (Sie stricken die 1. und 2. M und die 4. und 5. M zusammen), bleiben 180 M + 12 Blenden-M übrig = 192 M.

04.10.2015 - 21:22

country flag Celine wrote:

Je suis désolée de ne pas m'en sortir seule pour réaliser mon pull, mais j'ai un soucis avec le dessin M1, j'ai beau recommencé et recommencé je n'obtient pas le nombre de maille qu'il faut pour le premier dessin du bas, y a t'il une explication supplémentaire que vous pourriez m'apporter?

18.02.2015 - 22:25

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Céline, commencez bien M.1 en bas à droite et répétez *4 m end, 2 m ens à l'end* tout le rang sauf sur les 6 m de bordure de chaque côté, vous allez diminuer 1 m par motif de M1, soit par ex en taille S vous répétez 60 fois M.1 et diminuez 60 m sur ce rang. Tricotez 1 rang env sur l'env, au rang suivant, répétez *2 m ens à l'end, 1 m end, 2 m ens à l'end* tout le rang, vous diminuez 2 m par motif M1. Quand M1 est fait, il reste 3 m dans chaque motif. Bon tricot!

19.02.2015 - 09:11