DROPS Cotton Viscose
DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
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Sea Blush

Knitted DROPS bolero with lace pattern in ”Cotton Viscose” and ”Kid-Silk”. Size XS/S - XXXL

DROPS 119-21
DROPS design: Pattern no N-110
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Size: XS/S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials: DROPS COTTON VISCOSE from Garnstudio
color no 28, light pink: 200-250-250-300-300-350 g
and use: DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
color no 03, light pink: 75-75-75-100-100-100 g

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') size 4.5 mm/US 7 - or size needed to get 14 sts in lace pattern with 1 thread of each quality = width 10 cm / 4''.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') size 4 mm/US 6 – for rib.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Cotton Viscose
DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

PATTERN: See diagram M.1 – Diagram shows the pattern from RS.

INCREASING TIP: Inc by making 1 YO. Work YO into back of loop on return row to avoid a hole.
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BOLERO:
Body piece worked back and forth on needle, and rib border worked in the round on circular needle.

Cast on 104-111-118-126-133-140 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with 1 thread of each quality. K 3 rows (first row = WS) AT THE SAME TIME on row 3 dec 17-18-19-21-22-23 sts evenly (work approx every 5th and 6th st tog) = 87-93-99-105-111-117 sts. Continue as follows from RS: 3 GARTER STS - see above, M.1A (= 3 sts), M.1B until 3 sts remain and finish with 3 GARTER STS. Continue in M.1 like this with 3 garter sts each side. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When piece measures 3-3-4-5-6-7 cm / 1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1½"-2"-2 3/8"-2 3/4" cast on 6 new sts each side for sleeve = 99-105-111-117-123-129 sts. Continue in M.1 on all sts with 3 garter sts each side. When piece measures 37-41-44-47-50-53 cm / 14½"-16 1/8"-17 1/4"-18½"-19 3/4"-21" bind off 6 sts each side = 87-93-99-105-111-117 sts. Continue in M.1 with 3 garter sts each side until piece measures 39-43-47-51-55-59 cm / 15 1/4"-17"-18½"-20"-21 5/8"-23 1/4" (adjust so that next row is from WS). K 3 rows AT THE SAME TIME on row 1 inc 17-18-19-21-22-23 sts evenly (approx after every 5th st) = 104-111-118-126-133-140 sts. Change to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. Now pick up 104-111-118-126-133-140 sts in cast on row = 208-222-236-252-266-280 sts, and continue in the round. P 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME inc 80-86-92-100-106-112 sts evenly on round (after approx every other and 3rd st alternately) –see INCREASING TIP = 288-308-328-352-372-392 sts. K 1 round and then continue in rib K2/P2 on all sts. When rib measures 2.5 cm / 7/8'' inc 1 st in each P-section (P2 in first P st) and continue in rib K2/P3 until rib measures 5 cm / 2''. On next round inc 1 st in each K-section (K2 in the last K st) and continue in rib K3/P3 until rib measures 7 cm / 2¾''. Bind off with K over K and P over P.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew side and under arm seams inside 1 edge st – see broken line in chart.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 01.09.2010
Materials: DROPS COTTON VISCOSE from Garnstudio
color no 28, light pink: 200-250-250-300-300-350 g
and use: DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
color no 03, light pink: 75-75-75-100-100-100 g

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = how to wear the bolero
symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = 1 YO
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (130)

country flag Sara Maria Luisa Pompei wrote:

Buongiorno. Farò questo modello con bomull, taglia M. Sono sufficienti 8 gomitoli? Ho convertito in base alla lunghezza del filato di un gomitolo ma avrei bisogno di una conferma. Grazie Sara

15.03.2023 - 12:13

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Sara, il calcolo della quantità di filato è corretto: ha controllato che il suo campione corrispondesse a quello indicato? Buon lavoro!

15.03.2023 - 16:55

country flag Tanja wrote:

Was heißt "an der Anschlagkante Maschen aufnehmen"? Wie sieht das Bolero vor dem Zusammennähen aus? Ich kann es mir leider nicht vorstellen wie dann rundgestrickt wird. Ist die Darstellung das gesamte Bolero oder nur eine Hälfte und es wird von Handgelenk zu Handgelenk gestrickt? Passt aber auch irgendwie nicht. Vielen Dank

17.02.2023 - 11:15

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Tania, die Kante wird in der Runde gestrickt, also nach den Maschen auf die Nadel soll man 1 Masche in jede Masche der Anschlagskante auffassen, dann alle Maschen in der Runde für die Kante stricken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

17.02.2023 - 12:08

country flag Lea Jørgensen wrote:

I den sidste udtagning i den 7 cm brede yderkant står der, at udtagning skal ske i sidste retmaske, hvilket giver en "skæv" retbort. I stedet skal udt. ske i 1. retmaske, så den nye maske kommer til at ligge i midten. Måtte trævle en del op efter opdagelsen. Mvh lea

18.05.2022 - 23:05

country flag Lilianne Savard wrote:

Est-ce qu'il y a des rangs envers et des rangs endroits à faire ou on tricote tous les rangs avec le point de fantaisie quel est son nom a ce point de fantaisie? J'adore vos modèles Merci?

24.09.2021 - 04:42

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Savard, le diagramme montre tous les rangs, vus sur l'endroit, autrement dit, il se tricote en jersey endroit (= on tricote à l'endroit sur l'endroit et à l'envers sur l'envers), en faisant les jetés et les diminutions sur l'endroit uniquement. Retrouvez d'autres explications sur les diagrammes ici. Bon tricot!

24.09.2021 - 07:48

country flag Amrane wrote:

Bonjour Le rendu du point fantaisie une fois tricot n est pas le même que sur la photo porté Comment s appelle ce point pour le chercher ailleurs Merci

09.08.2021 - 18:53

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Amrane, tricotez les diagrammes ainsi, vu sur l'endroit: tricotez 1 fois M.1A et répétez M.1B en largeur, sur l'envers, tricotez toutes les mailles à l'endroit. Vous allez ainsi alterner 3 m jersey/3 m du point ajouré (= 1 jeté, 1 surjet double, 1 jeté), puis 3 m point ajouré/3 m jersey. Essayez sur un échantillon correspondant au nombre de mailles du diagramme pour vous entraîner. Bon tricot!

10.08.2021 - 13:39

country flag Wenche Frisendal wrote:

Hvordan syr jeg ihop armene, skjønner ikke helt hvordan.?

20.07.2021 - 08:11

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Wenche, Du begynner på bunn av sida og syr oppover til ermehullet, deretter syr du ermet. Sy på innsiden av 1 kantmaske. God fornøyelse!

20.07.2021 - 09:01

country flag Susanne wrote:

I am just starting and finished the decrease row so I have 99 stitches ( 3rd size). Following the pattern w garter edges ( 3 on each side), 3 stitches for m1a and 12 stitch repeat for m1b, I do not get 99 stitches. I must be reading something wrong. Any help is appreciated.

11.07.2021 - 02:34

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Susanne, work as follows: 3 sts in garter stitch, M.1A (= 3 sts), then repeat M.1B until 3 sts remain (= you will repeat the 12 sts in M.1B a total of 7 times, then work the first 6 sts), and finish with 3 sts in garter stitch. Happy knitting!

12.07.2021 - 07:33

country flag Marianne wrote:

Ska bolerin stickas med 2 olika garner eller kan man sticka med bara ett garn?

22.05.2021 - 22:59

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Marianne. Den stickas med 2 olika garner, men har du ett garn som ger den stickfasthet som uppges i mönstret så kan den stickas med bara 1 garn. Mvh DROPS Design

24.05.2021 - 08:04

country flag Inge wrote:

Ich trage (deutsche) Größe 44. In welcher Größe sollte ich das Bolero stricken, bzw. wie ist das Maß in cm der Oberweite des Boleros bei Ihren Größen XL, XXL und XXXl?

08.04.2021 - 14:15

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Inge, am besten vergleichen Sie die Maßen in der Skizze mit einer ähnlichen Jacke - und können auch die beste passende Größe mit der Hilfe von einer anderen Jacke von dem selben Heft. Hier lesen Sie mehr über die Skizze. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

08.04.2021 - 16:06

country flag Denise wrote:

Given the lace pattern, do you recommend blocking the piece before or after you add the ribbed border? Thank you.

02.05.2020 - 00:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Denise, each knitter has her own practices/habits - you can either block before or after - do not hesitate to contact (even per mail or telephone) the store where you bought your yarn for any individual assistance. Happy knitting!

04.05.2020 - 11:20