DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 69.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Gotha

Knitted DROPS jacket with short sleeves, rib and textured pattern in ”Alpaca” and ”Kid-Silk”. Size S - XXXL.

DROPS 118-30
DROPS design: Pattern no Z-482
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
NOTE: Because of the rib the garment will seem smaller than the measurements in the chart and below. Knit your usual size.
Finished measurements:
Bust: 78-86-98-104-116-130 cm / 30 3/4"-33 7/8"-38½"-41"-45 3/4"-51"
Full length: 77-80-83-86-89-92 cm / 30 3/8''-31½''-32¾''-33 7/8''-35''-36¼''

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
color no 3140, light pink: 300-350-350-400-450-450 g
And use: DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
color no 03, light pink: 150-175-175-200-225-225 g

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') size 4 mm/US 6 – or size needed to get 19 sts x 25 rows in stockinette st with 1 thread Alpaca + 1 thread Kid-Silk = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') size 3.5 mm/US 4 – for rib on sleeve and front bands.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON, no 522: 2 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 69.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram M.1. Diagram shows the pattern from RS – NOTE: first row in diagram = WS.

DECREASING TIP (applies to neckline):
Dec 1 st for neck by K/P 2 tog inside 1 edge st.

INCREASING TIP (applies to sleeve edge and front bands):
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. On next row work YO into back of loop to avoid a hole.

BUTTONHOLES:
Make 2 buttonholes on right front band approx 24-26-27-29-30-32 cm/9½"-10 1/4"-10 5/8"-11 3/8"-11 3/4"-12½" and 30-32-34-36-38-40 cm / 11¾''-12½''-13 3/8''-14¼''-15''-15¾ measured from shoulder and down (or where required).
1 BUTTONHOLE = bind off 2 sts and cast on 2 new sts on next row (for neatest result make buttonholes in P-section, as seen from RS).
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 236-252-268-300-332-364 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Alpaca and Kid-Silk (= 2 threads). Work 2 rows GARTER ST - see above - (first row = RS), then 2 rows stockinette st and now continue as follows from RS: 1 edge st in garter st, rib, K10/P6, until 11 sts remain, finish with K10 and 1 edge st in garter st. Continue in rib like this. When piece measures 10 cm / 4'' dec 1 st on the right side of each K-section (as seen from RS) = K9/P6. Continue in rib K9/P6 with 1 edge st each side. Now repeat the dec on the left and on the right side alternately of all K-sections (as seen from RS) when piece measures 20, 30 and 40 cm / 8", 11 3/4" and 15 3/4" = 176-188-200-224-248-272 sts = K6/P6. Continue in rib. When piece measures 47-48-49-50-51-52 cm / 18½''-19''-19¼''-19¾''-20''-20½'' K 1 row on all sts from RS, AT THE SAME TIME dec 39-33-21-39-39-39 sts evenly = 137-155-179-185-209-233 sts. Now continue in M.1 with 1 edge st each side (first row in diagram = WS). When piece measures approx 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm / 20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8'' - adjust to after the 6th or the last row in a repeat – divide piece in 2 and complete back and front pieces separately. Slip 31-37-43-43-49-55 sts each side towards mid front on separate stitch holders.

BACK PIECE:
= 75-81-93-99-111-123 sts. Continue in M.1. AT THE SAME TIME cast on 10 new sts each side at the end of the next 2 rows for sleeves = 95-101-113-119-131-143 sts. Continue in M.1 with 1 edge st each side. When piece measures 75-78-81-84-87-90 cm / 29½"-30 3/7"-32"-33"-34 1/4"-35½" bind off the middle 23-23-23-23-29-29 sts for neck and complete each shoulder separately. Bind off 1 st on neckline on next row = 35-38-44-47-50-56 sts left on shoulder. Continue in M.1 with 1 edge st each side and bind off with K over K and P over P when piece measures approx 77-80-83-86-89-92 cm / 30 3/8''-31½''-32¾''-33 7/8''-35''-36¼'' - adjust to after the 6th or the last row in a repeat.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Slip the 31-37-43-43-49-55 sts back on needle. Continue in M.1, AT THE SAME TIME cast on 10 new sts at the end of row towards the side for sleeve = 41-47-53-53-59-65 sts. Continue in M.1 with 1 edge st each side. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 53-55-57-59-61-63 cm / 21''-21 5/8''-22½''-23¼''-24''-24¾'' dec 1 st for neck towards mid front - see DECREASING TIP! Repeat the dec on every 8-6-6-10-6-6 row a total of 6-9-9-6-9-9 times = 35-38-44-47-50-56 sts – NOTE: work sts not fitting into pattern when dec in rib without YO. Continue in M.1 with 1 edge st each side and bind off when piece measures approx 77-80-83-86-89-92 cm / 30 3/8''-31½''-32¾''-33 7/8''-35''-36¼'' - adjust to back piece.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 31-37-43-43-49-55 sts. Like right front piece, but mirrored.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams. Sew under arm seams inside 1 edge st.

SLEEVE EDGE:
Worked in the round on small circular needle. Pick up 100-104-108-112-116-120 sts inside 1 edge st round sleeve edge on small circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Alpaca and Kid-Silk (= 2 threads). P 1 round, K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME inc 20-22-24-26-22-24 sts evenly on round – see INCREASING TIP = 120-126-132-138-138-144 sts. Now continue in rib, K3/P3. When sleeve edge measures 7 cm / 2¾'' bind off with K over K and P over P. Repeat round the other sleeve.

FRONT BAND/COLLAR:
Pick up from RS approx 168-174-180-186-194-200 sts along right front piece from bottom edge to mid back on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Alpaca and Kid-Silk. K 1 row from WS, AT THE SAME TIME inc evenly to 205-211-217-229-241-247 sts (divisible by with 6 + 1). Now work rib as follows, beg from RS (= bottom edge): 3 GARTER STS, rib K3/P3 until 4 sts remain and finish with K3 and 1 GARTER ST. Continue in rib like this with K over K, P over P and garter st over garter st. When front band measures 3 cm / 1 1/8'' insert a marker after 37-37-37-43-43-43 sts from mid back. Continue in rib as before, AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 st in each P-section (as seen from RS) on the 37-37-37-43-43-43 sts = 6-6-6-7-7-7 inc sts (to make front band wide enough round neckline). When front band measures 6 cm / 2 3/8'' make 2 BUTTONHOLES - see above. When front band measures 7 cm / 2¾'' bind off all sts with K over K and P over P. Repeat along left front piece as follows: Pick up sts from RS from mid back to bottom edge and K 1 row from WS. Work next row as follows from RS (= mid back): 1 garter st, rib, K3/P3, until 3 sts remain, work these in garter st. NOTE: Do not make buttonholes on left front band.
Sew front bands tog mid back.
Sew buttons on left front band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso, 1 YO
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (27)

country flag Mette wrote:

Hvordan skal jeg forstå M1 ? Når den siger tre af hver i diagrammet?

04.05.2020 - 20:12

country flag Tona Bengtsson wrote:

Alpace er spundet af 3 tråde. Skal man kun bruge den ene?

21.03.2018 - 15:40

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Tona, nej du bruger hele tråden og strikker den sammen med DROPS Kid-Silk. God fornøjelse!

22.03.2018 - 12:20

country flag Bianca Van Dam wrote:

Is dit patroon ook te maken met een enkele draad? Bv. Door andere naald of andere wol (welke dan?) te gebruiken?

16.12.2012 - 15:34

DROPS Design answered:

Ja, kijk op het overzicht van garencategorieën en kies een garen uit categorie B (naald 4). Maar brei altijd eerst een proeflapje om zeker te zijn van de stekenverhouding van het patroon.

19.12.2012 - 13:04

country flag Muslima wrote:

Absolument superbe,j'ai deja la laine

11.04.2010 - 19:44

country flag Maila wrote:

Tämä on aivan ihana malli tyttärilleni jotka odottavat kesävauvaa.loistava malli ison masun päälle ja kevyt t-paidan ja leggingsien kanssa.

05.04.2010 - 08:15

country flag DROPS Design NL wrote:

Je wilt dus dit model met 2 draden Alpaca breien? Je moet dan gewoon het dubbele aantal bollen Alpaca nemen. Dwz, voor maat S 600 gram (12 bollen). Normaal zou je het aantal berekenen met gebruik van de looplengte van de garens. Deze kan je vinden op de kleurenoverzichten. Maar het is hier heel eenvoudig omdat je al met 1 draad Alpaca breit. Let dan wel op dat de stekenverhouding gaat kloppen! 2 draden Alpaca is dikker dan 1 draad Alpaca/1 draad Kid Silk. Succes ermee. Gr. Tine

12.02.2010 - 10:02

country flag Sally wrote:

Als ik bij dit patroon het aantal bollen KID-Silk wil vervangen voor Alpaca, heb ik dan dezelfde hoeveelheid nodig? Of is er misschien een andere optie?

11.02.2010 - 16:37

Treacy wrote:

Lovely

24.01.2010 - 07:36

country flag Irene Hansen wrote:

Den bliver jeg også nødt til at strikke,flot farve og god model..

22.01.2010 - 22:23

country flag Tytti wrote:

Ihana!!!

19.01.2010 - 10:18