DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
DROPS Vivaldi
DROPS Vivaldi
56% Mohair, 30% Polyamide, 14% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale

Star Gazer

DROPS jacket in stockinette st with pattern on back piece in ”Alpaca” and ” Vivaldi”. Worked in different knitting directions. Size S - XXXL.

DROPS 115-3
DROPS design: Pattern no Z-445.

Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 80-86-94-106-114-130 cm / 31½’’-33 7/8’’-37’’-41¾’’-45’’-51’’
Full length: 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22’’-22¾’’-23 5/8’’-24 3/8’’-25¼’’-26’’

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
250-250-300-350-350-400 g color no 100, off-white
And use: DROPS VIVALDI from Garnstudio
150-150-200-200-200-250 g color no 06, off-white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES, POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32’’) size 5.5 mm/US 9 - or size needed to get 18 sts x 24 rows in stockinette st with 1 thread of each quality = 10 x 10 cm / 4’’ x 4’’.
DROPS POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16’’) size 5 mm/ US 8 - for rib.

DROPS Mother-of-pearl buttons w/hole, no 526: 5 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
DROPS Vivaldi
DROPS Vivaldi
56% Mohair, 30% Polyamide, 14% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN: See diagram M.1 and M.2. Diagram shows the pattern from RS.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

INCREASING TIP: Make all inc from RS. Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next row work YO into back of loop to avoid a hole.
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BACK PIECE (UPPER PART):
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 8 sts on double pointed needles size 5.5 mm / US 9 with 1 thread of each quality. Distribute sts on 4 needles with 2 sts per needle. K 1 round and continue in M.1 in the round (= 4 repeats). REMEMBER THE GAUGE! After 1 vertical repeat of M.1 there are 128 sts on needle (= 32 sts per needle). Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm / US 9. Insert a marker at beg of round. Continue in M.2 – see diagram for your size! After 1 vertical repeat of M.2 there are 216-240-240-240-264-264 sts on needle. Continue as follows: slip the first 55-61-61-61-67-67 sts on a stitch holder (= bottom edge), slip the next 54-60-60-60-66-66 sts on a new stitch holder (= right side), slip the next 15-17-17-17-19-19 sts on en new stitch holder (= right shoulder), bind off the next 23-25-25-25-27-27 sts (= neck), leave the next 15-17-17-17-19-19 sts on needle (= left shoulder) and slip the last 54-60-60-60-66-66 sts on a new stitch holder (= left side).

SHOULDER:
Work stockinette st back and forth on the 15-17-17-17-19-19 sts on needle, with 1 thread of each quality for 2 cm / 3/4’’. Bind off.
Slip the 15-17-17-17-19-19 sts from stitch holder on right shoulder back on needle. Work like left shoulder.

LEFT FRONT PIECE (UPPER PART):
Front piece is worked from side to side, back and forth on needle from mid front. The front band is worked separately after assembly.
Cast on 38-41-40-38-43-41 sts on circular needle size 5.5 mm / US 9 with 1 thread of each quality. Work 2 rows GARTER ST – see above and then work 4-4-4-4-6-6 rows stockinette st with 1 garter st at bottom edge (= first st on needle from RS, worked in garter st throughout). Now inc for neck as follows:
Inc 1 st at the end of every other row (= every row from RS) a total of 4 times. Then inc 1 st on every row at the same side of piece (i.e. inc at the end of every row from RS and at the beg of every row from WS), a total of 5 times. There are now 9 inc sts for neck and a total of 47-50-49-47-52-50 sts on needle. On next row from RS cast on 11-14-15-17-18-20 sts at the end of row (= the same side as inc for neck) = 58-64-64-64-70-70 sts. Insert a marker, and now measure piece from here.
Continue in stockinette st back and forth on needle with 1 garter st at bottom edge as before until piece measures 8-9-9-9-11-11 cm / 3 1/8’’-3½”-3½”-3½”-4 3/8”-4 3/8” from marker (= shoulder). Slip sts on a stitch holder.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE (UPPER PART):
Like left front piece but mirrored. I.e. work the last st on needle from RS in garter st, inc for neck at the end of every row from WS 4 times, and then inc on every row at the same side of piece (i.e. inc at the end of every row from WS and at the beg of every row from RS), a total of 5 times.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams.

LEFT SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle in order to fit in all sts.
Slip the 58-64-64-64-70-70 sts from stitch holder on left front piece back on circular needle size 5.5 mm / US 9. Pick up 4 sts from shoulder seam and down to sts on stitch holder on the left side on back piece, and slip the 54-60-60-60-66-66 sts from stitch holder on back piece back on needle = 116-128-128-128-140-140 sts. Continue in stockinette st back and forth on circular needle size 5.5 mm / US 9 with 1 garter st each side with 1 thread of each quality for approx 5-5-7-10-10-14 cm / 2”-2”-2 ¾”-4”-4”-5½’’. Now bind off 22-25-23-22-27-25 sts at the beg of the next 2 rows = 72-78-82-84-86-90 sts left on needle for sleeve. Insert a marker, and now measure piece from here. Continue in stockinette st back and forth on needle until piece measures approx 3-3-3-5-5-6 cm / 1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/8”-2”-2”-2 3/8” from marker. Now dec 1 st each side, and repeat the dec on every 3.5-3-2.5-2-2-1.5 cm / 1¼”-1 1/8”-7/8”-3/4”-3/4”-½” a total of 14-16-18-18-19-20 times = 44-46-46-48-48-50 sts. Continue until piece measures 51-50-48-46-44-41 cm / 20”-19¾”-19”-18”-17¼”-16 1/8”. Change to needle size 5 mm / US 8 and K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME inc 2-4-4-6-6-8 sts evenly = 46-50-50-54-54-58 sts. K 1 row from WS and continue in rib K2/ P2 with 1 edge st each side. When rib measures approx 5-5-6-6-7-7 cm / 2”-2”-2 3/8”-2 3/8”-2¾”-2¾” P 1 row from WS and bind off in K sts on next row.

RIGHT SLEEVE:
Slip the 54-60-60-60-66-66 sts from stitch holder on the right side of piece on back piece back on needle. Pick up 4 sts up to shoulder seam, slip the 58-64-64-64-70-70 sts from stitch holder at the side on right front piece back on needle = 116-128-128-128-140-140 sts. Continue as described for left sleeve.

BACK PIECE (BOTTOM PART):
Slip the 55-61-61-61-67-67 sts at bottom edge on back piece on needle size 5 mm / US 8. Pick up 9-9-13-18-18-25 sts with 1 thread of each quality from RS inside 1 garter st each side of sts on needle (= towards the sides) = 73-79-87-97-103-117 sts. K 1 row from WS, K 1 row from RS and K 1 row from WS. Change to needle size 5.5 mm / US 9. Insert a marker, and now measure piece from here. Continue in stockinette st, AT THE SAME TIME on first row inc 5-5-5-5-7-3 sts evenly = 78-84-92-102-110-120 sts. When piece measures approx 2 cm / 3/4’’ from marker inc 1 st each side, repeat the inc on every 8-5-6-7-6-5 cm / 3 1/8”-2”-2 3/8”-2¾”-2 3/8”-2” a total of 3-4-4-4-4-5 times = 84-92-100-110-118-130 sts. Continue until piece measures approx 21-21-23-25-23-25 cm / 8¼”-8¼”-9”-9¾”-9”-9¾” from marker. Change back to needle size 5 mm / US 8, work 4 rows GARTER ST – see above, and bind off loosely.

LEFT FRONT PIECE (BOTTOM PART):
Pick up 37-40-44-49-52-59 sts from RS along bottom edge on front piece inside 1 garter st on needle size 5 mm / US 8 with 1 thread of each quality. K 1 row from WS, K 1 row from RS and K 1 row from WS. Change to needle size 5.5 mm / US 9. Insert a marker, and now measure piece from here. Continue in stockinette st with 1 garter st towards mid front, AT THE SAME TIME on first row inc 2-2-2-2-3-1 sts evenly = 39-42-46-51-55-60 sts. When piece measures approx 2 cm / 3/4’’ from marker inc 1 st at the side 3-4-4-4-4-5 times = 42-46-50-55-59-65 sts. When piece measures 21-21-23-25-23-25 cm / 8¼”-8¼”-9”-9¾”-9”-9¾” from marker change back to needle size 5 mm / US 8, work 4 rows garter st and bind off loosely.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE (bottom part):
Like left front piece.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew sleeve and side seams inside 1 edge st.

FRONT BAND:
Beg at the top of left front piece (= cast on row), pick up 105-109-113-113-117-121 sts (from RS) inside 1 garter st along the front piece. K 1 row from WS and K 1 row from RS. Work next row as follows (from WS, i.e. from bottom edge towards neckline): 2 garter sts, * P2, K2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with P2 and 1 garter st. Continue like this until front band measures approx 4 to 5 cm / 1½” to 2’’. Bind off with K over K and P over P. Work front band in the same way on right front piece, but AT THE SAME TIME when front band measures 2 to 2.5 cm / ¾” to 7/8” make 5 buttonholes evenly distributed – place the top buttonhole in the 2 K sts towards neckline and the bottom one in transition between bottom and upper part. 1 buttonhole = K2 tog and make 1 YO, work YO into rib on return row.

NECKLINE:
Pick up 86 to 108 sts round neck (includes 8 to 10 sts inside the garter st on front band each side) on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with 1 thread of each quality. K 1 row from WS, work 4 rows garter st and bind off loosely.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K
symbols = P
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts, on next round
P YO into back of loop to avoid a hole.
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts, on next round K YO to create a hole
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso
symbols = K2 tog.
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (79)

country flag CécM wrote:

Bonjour, Pour les tailles S – M – L – XL – XXL – XXXL, est il possible de connaitre tour de poitrines en fonction des tailles. Merci

14.02.2022 - 13:34

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour CécM, vous trouverez en bas de page un schéma avec toutes les mesures finales pour chaque taille; mesurez un vêtement similaire que vous avez et dont vous aimez la forme et comparez les mesures à celles du schéma; c'est la méthode la plus efficace pour trouver votre taille - plus d'infos ici. Bon tricot!

14.02.2022 - 13:55

country flag Cancian wrote:

Bonjour Par quoi peut-on remplacer Vivaldi pour avoir un rendu similaire ? Merci

14.11.2016 - 18:24

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Cancian, on peut la remplacer par DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk - Trouvez ici plus d'infos sur les alternatives et le calcul des quantités. Bon tricot!

15.11.2016 - 09:07

country flag Samira wrote:

Dans les explication, il manque les 15 mailles a tricoter pour l'épaule droite dans la partie du haut du dos cordialement

26.03.2015 - 09:29

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Samira et merci, la correction a été faite. Bon tricot!

30.03.2015 - 16:22

country flag DROPS Design NL wrote:

Hoi. De bloem op het achterpand moet in de rondte worden gebreid (sokkennaalden kunt u ook gebruiken). De overige stukken wordt heen en weer gebreid. Wij gebruiken de rondbreinld omdat u hier veel meer steken kwijt kunt, maar u kunt voor dit patroon ook gewone nld gebruiken. Succes. Gr. Tine

28.02.2011 - 12:35

country flag Marlene Spiertz wrote:

Ik zou het graag op gewone breinaalden breien, kan iemand mij helpen?Het lukt niet op de rondbreinld

26.02.2011 - 15:20

country flag DROPS Design NL wrote:

U moet aan het begin VAN DE VOLGENDE 2 naalden 25 st afkanten (dwz, 2 x 25 st = 50. 128 - 50 = 78 st). U moet vervolgens afkanten aan elke kant op iedere 3 cm. 16 x 3 cm is 48 cm. De mouw was al ongeveer 8 cm. De mouw wordt in totaal ca 60 cm - zie maattekening. Gr. Tine

18.10.2010 - 16:37

country flag Dragica Residovic wrote:

Hallo, linker mouw-ik heb 128 st. op de nld. na ongeveer 5 cm moet ik 25st. kantten, dan heb ik 103 st. over. in patron is dat 78 st. dat begrijp ik niet.dan staat nog iedere 5cm 1 st. minderen aan iedere kant, dan is mouw 16 st.x 5cm= 90 cm lang.in patron staat dt de mouw ongeveer 50 cm lang is. hartilijk dank, dragica residovic

16.10.2010 - 22:27

country flag Dragica Residovic wrote:

Ik wil u hartelijk bedanken. nou begrijp ik het. groet, dragica residovic

06.10.2010 - 11:00

country flag DROPS Design NL wrote:

8 st over 4 nld = 2 st per naald. U breit dan in de rondte (net zoals met sokken breien). U kunt in ons gedeelte van breivideo's ook een video bekijken. Kijk in de index onder S en bekijk de vidoe "Sok - teen van een sok breien". Je kan hier zien hoe je de steken op de sokkennaalden heb zitten. Succes. Gr. Tine

06.10.2010 - 10:15

country flag Dragica Residovic wrote:

Ik weet niet hoe ik 8 st. moet verdeele over 4 nld. hartelijk dank, dragica residovic

05.10.2010 - 22:42