DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.25$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 111-13
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 80-88-100-106-118-128 cm / 31½’’-34 5/8’’-39 3/8’’-41¾’’-46½’’-50 3/8’’
Full length: 38-40-42-44-46-48 cm / 15’’-15¾’’-16½’’-17¼’’-18’’-19’’

Materials: DROPS KID SILK from Garnstudio
color no 03, light pink 75-75-75-100-100-100 g

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24’’) size 3.5 mm /US 4 - or size needed to get 23 sts x 30 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4’’ x 4’’.
DROPS POINTED AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32’’) size 3 mm /US 2or3 – or size needed to get 23 sts x 45 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm / 4’’ x 4’’.
DROPS Mother-of-pearl buttons w/hole
no 521: 3 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.25$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 and M.2. The diagrams show the pattern from the RS.

DECREASING TIP:
Dec 1 st by each marker by K2 tog to the right and to the left of marker alternately (i.e. first dec made to the right of all markers, second dec to the left of all markers, etc).

BUTTONHOLES:
Make buttonholes on right front band. 1 buttonhole = bind off 5th and 6th st from mid front and cast on 2 new sts on return row.
Make buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 22, 27, 32 cm / 8¾”, 10 5/8”, 12½”
SIZE M: 22, 28, 34 cm / 8¾”, 11”, 13 3/8”
SIZE L: 24, 30, 36 cm / 9½”, 11¾”, 14¼”
SIZE XL: 24, 31, 38 cm / 9½”, 12¼”, 15”
SIZE XXL: 25, 32, 39 cm / 9¾”, 12½”, 15¼”
SIZE XXXL: 26,34,42 cm /10¼”,13 3/8”,16½”
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BODY PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. LOOSELY cast on 216-230-258-286-314-342 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with 1 thread Kid-Silk. Continue as follows from RS: P10, garter st across the row - see above - until 10 sts remain, P10 (P10 each side = front bands, P on every row throughout). After 6 rows work next row as follows from RS: P10, M.1 (= 14 sts) across the row until 10 sts remain, P10 = 188-200-224-248-272-296 sts. Work next row as follows from WS: P10, M.2 (= 12 sts) across the row until 10 sts remain, P10. After 1 vertical repeat of M.2, K 1 row from RS (work front bands as before), AT THE SAME TIME adjust no of sts to 186-202-228-246-270-296. Insert 2 markers in piece, 52-55-62-67-73-79 sts in from each side (back piece = 82-92-104-112-124-138 sts). Continue in stockinette st with 10 front band sts each side as before. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! When piece measures 5 cm / 2’’ inc 1 st on each side of both markers and repeat the inc on every 3-3-3.5-3.5-4-4 cm / 1 1/8’’-1 1/8’’-1¼’’-1¼’’-1½’’-1½’’ a total of 5 times = 206-222-248-266-290-316 sts. When piece measures 21-22-23-24-25-26 cm / 8¼’’-8¾’’-9’’-9½’’-9¾’’-10¼’’ LOOSELY bind off 10 sts each side for armhole (= 5 sts on each side of marker). Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 66-68-72-74-76-78 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 3 mm / US 2or3. Work garter st back and forth on needle. When piece measures 3 cm / 1 1/8’’ inc 1 st each side, and repeat the inc on every 1.5-1.5-1.5-1-0.5-0.5 cm / ½”-½”-½”-3/8”-1/4”-1/4” a total of 4-5-5-7-8-9 times = 74-78-82-88-92-96 sts. When piece measures 12 cm / 4¾” bind off 6 sts each side = 62-66-70-76-80-84 sts left on needle. Put piece aside and knit the other sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on the same circular needle as body piece where bind off for armholes = 310-334-368-398-430-464 sts. Change to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2or3. NOTE! Make BUTTONHOLES on right front band – see above! K 1 row from RS with front bands as before, AT THE SAME TIME dec 0-1-0-0-1-0 sts on row = 310-333-368-398-429-464 sts. K 1 row from WS. Insert 10-12-13-14-16-17 markers in piece as follows: first marker after 29-29-28-30-27-32 sts and the following markers with 28-25-26-26-25-25 sts between each = 29-29-28-30-27-32 sts left after the last marker. Now continue in garter st on all sts with front bands as before, AT THE SAME TIME dec 10-12-13-14-16-17 sts on every 8 row 3-4-4-4-5-5 times and then on every 6 row 9-8-9-10-9-10 times – SEE DECREASING TIP! AT THE SAME TIME when yoke measures approx 13-14-15-16-16-17 cm / 5 1/8”-5½”-6”-6¼”-6¼”-6¾” (measured from markers) slip 24-26-28-30-32-34 sts each side towards mid front on stitch holders for neck. Bind off to shape the neckline each side on every row from mid front: 3 sts 2 times, then 2 sts each side until yoke measures approx 17-18-19-20-21-22 cm / 6¾’’-7’’-7½’’-8’’-8¼’’-8¾’’ (measured from markers – also bind off past markers at the sides). Piece now measures approx 38-40-42-44-46-48 cm / 15’’-15¾’’-16½’’-17¼’’-18’’-19’’.

NECKLINE:
Pick up approx 42-56 sts (incl sts on stitch holders) on each side of neckline on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2or3. K 1 row from WS on all sts, AT THE SAME TIME adjust no of sts to 176-180-186-190-198-200. Work 4 rows garter st, bind off LOOSELY.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew openings under arms and sew sleeve seams inside 1 edge st. Sew on buttons.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso
symbols = K2 tog
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = K5, lift 2nd st on right needle over the first st, lift 3rd st over the the first st, lift 4th st over the first st, lift 5th st over the first st (= 1 st left)
symbols = K5, slip the 5 sts back on left needle. Lift 2nd st on left needle over the first st, lift 3rd st over the first st, lift 4th st over the first st, lift 5th st over the first st (= 1 st left, slip this back on right needle)
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (30)

country flag Blanquet Carole wrote:

Bonjour, je suis arrivée à l empiècement ; il est précisé de diminuer 10 m 3fois tous les 8 rang (pour ma taille) . pas de problème. Mais il est dit d'aller à "diminutions" et où l on précise de diminuer une maille à droite et une maille à gauche des marqueurs . or il y a 10 marqueurs, cela fait 20 diminutions et non 10... de plus ces diminutions doivent elle être faites dès le début de l empiècement ou doit on les commencer au bout des 8 rangs?

15.12.2018 - 15:38

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Blanquet, on doit diminuer 1 m à chaque marqueur soit 10 diminutions par rang, la 1ère fois, vous diminuez à droite de chacun des marqueurs (= avant chaque marqueur), la fois suivante, vous diminuez à gauche de chacun des marqueurs (= après chaque marqueur). Bon tricot!

17.12.2018 - 09:43

country flag Raffaella wrote:

Vorrei eseguire il modello in cotton viscose per taglia M....quanto filato devo acquistare...sono un po imbranata e non riesco a fare i calcoli ;-) Grazie mille

17.03.2017 - 18:00

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Raffaella. Usando Kid Silk avrà bisogno di 3 gomitoli pari a 200 metri (metri in un gomitolo) X 3 gomitoli= 600 metri. I gomitoli di Cotton Viscose corrispondono a 110 metri l'uno: quindi 600 m : 110 = 5,5 gomitoli, quindi 6 gomitoli . Buon lavoro!

17.03.2017 - 19:38

country flag Laurent wrote:

J'ai finalement réussi à tricoter ce joli petit gilet mais je n'avais pas assez de laine. J'avais commandé 75 gr pour la taille S et heureusement ma soeur m'a dépanné avec une pelote à elle. Ce qui m'a permis de tricoter la dernière dizaine de rangs.

26.09.2016 - 13:30

country flag Laurent wrote:

Bonsoir, Je ne comprends pas les explications suivantes : "EN MÊME TEMPS, ........ Rabattre ensuite de chaque côté tous les rangs à partir de l'encolure : 2 fois 3 m, puis 2 m jusqu'à environ 17- cm (mesuré à partir des marqueurs – rabattre également les mailles avec les marqueurs de chaque côté de l'encolure)." Merci pour votre aide

12.09.2016 - 20:19

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Laurent, vous rabattez maintenant au début de chaque rang à partir de l'encolure (= de chaque côté): 2x 3 m, puis vous rabattez 2 m de chaque côté jusqu'à ce que l'ouvrage mesure 17 cm depuis les marqueurs. En rabattant ces mailles, vous passerez les marqueurs placés près de l'encolure. Bon tricot!

13.09.2016 - 09:15

country flag Monica wrote:

Buongiorno vorrei sapere se le 10 maglie del bordo sono lavorare a rovescio anche al rovescio del lavoro oppure a maglia rasata rovescia, viste dal diritto del lavoro. Grazie

08.07.2016 - 05:59

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Monica. Le 10 m dei bordi davanti sono lavorate sempre a rov, anche sui ferri sul rovescio del lavoro. Buon lavoro!

08.07.2016 - 06:50

country flag Monica wrote:

Salve, vorrei conferma che il golfino vada lavorato sia con i ferri 3, 5 (per il corpo) che con i ferri 3 (per le maniche e per lo sprone). Grazie e complimenti

05.07.2016 - 05:56

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Monica, i ferri indicati sono 3,5 mm per il corpo e 3 mm per le maniche. Si ricordi sempre di controllare il campione, se non corrisponde a quello indicato deve adeguare la misura dei ferri. Buon lavoro!!

05.07.2016 - 07:26

Angelina Birch wrote:

I am confused as to the place to cast off for the armholes, it doesn't say where just cast off 10 sts each side

24.05.2015 - 17:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Birch, you cast off 5 sts on each side of each marker, ie the 2 markers placed earlier, where you have inc each side of them. Happy knitting!

26.05.2015 - 10:08

country flag Lise Brandt wrote:

Jeg kigger på model 111-13, men jeg er mest interesseret i en lidt lettere model. Hvis jeg skifter garnet til cotton viscose, hvad vil det gøre ved jakkens udseende - og hvor meget garn skal jeg i så fald bruge? På forhånd tak :-)

19.03.2015 - 10:17

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lise. Cotton Viscose er et tungere og mere glansende garn end Kid-Silk, saa du vil ikke göre den "lettere". Du kan se her hvordan du regner ud hvor meget garn du skal bruge. God fornöjelse.

19.03.2015 - 13:37

country flag Annick wrote:

Bonjour, concernant la fin de l'empiecement, je ne comprends pas de quelles mailles il s'agit pour "mettre en attente de chaque coté", on part d'où? et ensuite on rabat quoi, je ne visualise absolument pas! après pour le col, il faut relever les mailles en attente et combien d'autres ( les explication sont floues à ce niveau)? en esperant pouvoir comprendre afin de finir ce gilet cordialement

10.03.2015 - 10:07

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Annick, à la fin de l'empiècement, on met sur un arrêt de mailles les 24-34 m (cf taille) de chaque côté (= début et fin de rang) en attente (on reprend ces mailles ensuite pour le col), et on continue en rabattant pour l'encolure tous les 2 rangs de chaque côté 2 x 3 m puis 2 m jusqu'à 17-22 cm. Bon tricot!

10.03.2015 - 10:12

country flag Janne Poulsen wrote:

Er ikke nået så langt endnu, men snart skal jeg finde ud af halskanten. Undrer mig over hvor den skal være. Er det i nakken, jeg sætter pinde på tråd og derefter samler masker op, som jeg lige har lukket af? Mvh. Janne

12.09.2014 - 01:01

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Janne, Når du strikker bærestykket sætter du maskerne mod midt foran på en tråd ifølge opskriften. Det er de samme masker du sætter tilbage på pinden når du til sidst skal strikke halskanten. Men følg opskriften, det er altid lettere at forstå når du kommer til opgaven. God fornøjelse!

12.09.2014 - 13:36