DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.95 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.65$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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DROPS 105-11
Size: XS/S – M – L – XL/ XXL – XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 32.2"-37"-41.7"–46½"-51"
Hem: 27½"-32.2"-37"–41.7"-46½"
Full length: 22.7"-23.6"-24.4"-25.2"-25½"

Materials: DROPS Muskat from Garnstudio
350-400-450-500-600 g colour no 60, ice blue

DROPS circular needle (80 cm) size 3.5 mm [US 4] - or size needed to obtain 20 sts x 26 rows in stocking st = 4" x 4". Width of 1 repeat of M.1 = 2.6”.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.95 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.65$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Garter st, back and forth on needle: K all rows

Pattern: See diagram M.1, M.2 and M.3. The diagram shows the pattern from the RS side.

Front and back piece: Knitted in the round. Loosely cast on 168-196-224-252-280 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm [US 4]. P 1 round, K 1 round. Continue in M.1 for approx 9½”-10.2”-10.2”-11”-11” (adjust to a full pattern repeat) and then work the next 3 rounds as follows: *M.2 (= 14 sts), 14 stocking sts*, repeat from *-*. After M.2 there are 156-182-208-234-260 sts on round. Insert a Marking Thread (MT) each side as follows:

Size XS/S: in first st on round + in st 79
Size M: in between first and last st on round + between st 91 and 92.
Size L: in first st on round + in st 105
Size XL/XXL: in between first and last st on round + between st 117 and 118
Size XXXL: in first st on round + in st 131
(some MT in sts, some in between sts in order to have a st mid front)

Now read all of the following section before knitting it!

Continue in stocking st. Remember the knitting gauge.
At the same time when piece measures 10.2”-10.6”-11”-11.4”-11.7” inc 1 st on both sides of all MT on every 5th row a total of 6 times = 180-206-232-258-284 sts.
At the same time when piece measures 13.4”-13.7”-14.2”-14½”-15” work M.3 mid front – make sure to place middle st in diagram mid front – work remaining sts in stocking st. After M.3 continue in stocking st on all sts.
At the same time when piece measures 15.7”-16.1”-16½”-16½”-16½” bind off 5-6-7-8-9 sts each side for armhole as follows:
Size XS/S: st with MT + 2 sts either side
Size M: 3 sts on either side of MT
Size L: st with MT + 3 sts either side
Size XL/XXL: 4 sts on either side of MT
Size XXXL: st with Mt + 4 sts on either side.
Now complete front and back pieces separately.

Front piece: = 85-97-109-121-133 sts. Continue M.3 and stocking st and dec to shape the armhole on every other row: 3 sts 0-1-2-2-3 times, 2 sts 1-1-2-4-5 times and 1 st 3-4-3-4-4 times. At the same time when piece measures 17.7”-18”-18½”-19”-19.2” put the middle 15-15-17-17-19 sts on a thread and dec to shape the neckline on every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 5 times. After all dec for armhole and neck are complete there are 18-20-21-22-22 sts left on each shoulder. Continue in stockinette st with 1 garter st each side. Bind off when piece measures 22.7”-23.6”-24.4”-25.2”-26”.

Back piece: Dec to shape the armhole as described for front piece = 75-79-83-85-87 sts. Continue in stocking st with 1 garter st each side. When piece measures 21.2”-22”-22.7”-23.6”-24.4” bind off the middle 31-31-33-33-35 sts and bind off to shape the neckline on every other row: 2 sts 1 time, 1 st 2 times = 18-20-21-22-22 sts left on each shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 22.7”-23.6”-24.4”-25.2”-26”.

Sleeve: Knitted back and forth on needle. Loosely cast on 51-54-57-63-66 sts on needle size 3.5 mm [US 4]. Work 6 rows garter st and work next row as follows from RS: *K1, K2 in next st, K2 in next st*, repeat from *-* = 85-90-95-105-110 sts on row. Continue in stockinette st. After 2 rows dec 1 st each side on every other row 5 times = 75-80-85-95-100 sts. When piece measures 3.1” dec each side for sleeve cap on every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 4 times, 1 st 3-5-7-9-12 times, then dec 2 sts each side until piece measures 6.2”-6.7”-7”-8”-8.7”, dec 3 sts 1 time each side and bind off. Sleeve measures approx 6.7”-7”-7½”-8.2”-9”.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Sew side and sleeve seams. Set in sleeves.

Neckline: Pick up approx 120 to 140 sts (includes sts on thread) on needle size 3.5 mm [US 4] round the neck, P 1 round, K 1 round, K 1 round, P 1 round and bind off.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 07.03.2008
Front and back piece:
...Continue in M.1 for approx 24-26-26-28-28 cm [9½”-10.2”-10.2”-11”-11”]...

...Remember the knitting gauge. At the same time when piece measures 26-27-28-29-30 cm [10.2”-10.6”-11”-11.4”-11.7”] ...

Triangle in right hand corner =
RS: K2 tog. WS: P2 tog
Triangle in left hand corner =
RS: slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso.
WS: P2 twisted tog (i.e work in back loops)

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = RS: K2 tog. WS: P2 tog
symbols = RS: slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso.
WS: P2 twisted tog (i.e work in back loops)
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso
symbols = 1 yo
symbols = no st, skip this square
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (68)

country flag Marianne MøllerNielsen wrote:

1.pind i M1 jeg får for mange masker. Der er 4 omslag men kun 2 masker indtaget. Efterfølgende rækker, passer mønsteret så ikke i, og hver gang jeg strikker 1. Række øger jeg maskeantallet. Hvad er det jeg misser i dette diagram?

27.07.2022 - 10:13

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Marianne, jo på 3.pind i diagrammet strikker du mønsteret over 16 masker og på 5.pind tager du ind fra 16 masker til 14 masker igen, de sidste pinde i diagrammet strikkes over 14 masker. Sæt gerne et mærke imellem hver rapport. God fornøjelse!

04.08.2022 - 09:28

country flag Aase Bolvig Sørensen wrote:

Hvorfor har jeg for lidt masker når jeg har strikket mønster 2

17.06.2022 - 11:21

country flag Aase Bolvig Sørensen wrote:

Jeg har problemer med M1 række 9. Når jeg strikker den er der 1 maske for meget på hver side af "midter" masken

08.06.2022 - 13:16

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Aase, på pind nr 9 har du 14 masker (ifølge diagrammet) de skal strikkes således: 1r, omslag, 3r, omslag, 3 tages ind til 1, 1r, 3 tages ind til 1, omslag, 3r, omslag = ialt 4 omslag og 4 m taget ind. Sæt gerne 1 mærke imellem hver rapport af diagrammet. God fornøjelse!

08.06.2022 - 15:14

country flag Clasina wrote:

Wat moet ik doen bij een zwarr vakje: dit is geen steek, sla dit hokje over? In de toer eronder zijn gewone rechte steken gebreid, wat moet ik daarmee doen?

20.05.2022 - 08:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Clasina,

In de eerstvolgende steek van de toer eronder brei je de steek die na het zwarte vakje komt. Als het je het telpatroon uit zou knippen dan zou je ook de zwarte vakjes eruit knippen.

21.05.2022 - 16:01

country flag Gea Laninga wrote:

Ik heb dit patroon vroeger al eens gebreid op 2 naalden.dat zou ik nu ook graag weer doen komt het dan wel uit hoe moet je de achterkant dan breien. Averecht?

14.02.2022 - 18:33

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Gea,

Als je heen en weer breit, brei je inderdaad averecht op de verkeerde kant en recht op de goede kant. Zorg ervoor dat je steeds de even naalden in het telpatroon op de verkeerde kant breit en de oneven naalden op de goede kant.

17.02.2022 - 11:07

country flag Gea Laninga wrote:

Kun je dit patroon ook op 2 naalden breien.

14.02.2022 - 18:28

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Gea,

Ja, dat is wel mogelijk met dit patroon. Om een patroon aan te passen om op rechte naalden te breien hebben we een instructie gemaakt. Deze vind je hier.

17.02.2022 - 11:08

Harriet wrote:

What does sizes S, M, L, XL mean? What is the bust size for these letter sizing?

12.05.2016 - 09:05

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Harriet, you will find at the bottom of the pattern when scrolling down the page a measurement chart with all measurements for each size, in cm, taken flat from side to side. Compare these to a similar garment you have and like the shape to find out the matching size. Read more here. Happy knitting!

12.05.2016 - 09:21

country flag Edith Stein wrote:

The photo does not show 14 sts after each repeat of M.2. In a medium,you can't get from 182 stitches after the third row of M.2 to 206 stitches after increasing 4 stitches every 5th row, 5 more times for a total of 6 times. 182 is 13 stitches times 14 repeats which means the third row of M.2 should be decreased to 13 stitches not 12. Add 4 times 6 or 24 to 182 = 206 which is your ending stitch count. The 3rd row should be k6,yo, k2tog,k5 for a total of 13. The chart is incorrect.

20.06.2015 - 19:32

country flag Edith Stein wrote:

I don't understand the instructions for M.2. The first row results in 14 stitches. Should the next set of 14 be stockinette or should it be the same 14 stitches as M.2? The third row results in only 12 stitches since the beginning and end are blank and there are no yarn overs. How do I return to 14 stitches? Many thanks.

15.06.2015 - 05:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Stein, you work M.2 as follows: (M.2, 14 sts in stockinette), ie on first row you will have (14 sts in M.2, 14 sts in stockinette), on row 2, work all sts in M.2 in stockinette - on row 3 in M.2 work (M.2 =14 sts dec to 12 sts, 14 sts in stockinette). Happy knitting!

15.06.2015 - 10:52

country flag Sandra Jones wrote:

Can we get the comments in English?

23.03.2015 - 18:19

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Jones, you can use an online translator to get all comments in English. If you have a question, you are welcome to ask it here and/or get help from your DROPS store. Happy knitting!

24.03.2015 - 09:12