DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.95 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 106-2
Size: XS – S – M – L – XL – XXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 30 3/4"-33 7/8"-37"–40"-44"-48"
Hem: 39 3/8"-42½"-46½"–49½"-53½"-56½"
Full length: 32 1/4"-33"-33 7/8"-34 5/8"-35½"-36 1/4"

Materials: DROPS Muskat, from Garnstudio
400-450-500-550-600-650 g color no 08, off-white

DROPS circular needle (80 cm [31½’’]) size 4.5 mm [US 7] - or size needed to obtain 20 sts x 26 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm [4’’ x 4’’].

DROPS crochet hook size 4 mm [US G/6]

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.95 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Garter st, back and forth on needle: K all rows

Garter st, in the round: K 1 round, P 1 round.

Pattern: See diagram M.1 to M.4. The diagram shows the pattern from the RS side.

Decreasing tip 1, apply to neckline:
Dec as follows before MT: K2 tog
Dec as follows after MT: slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso.

Decreasing tip 2: All dec done from RS. Dec inside 3 garter sts.
Dec as follows after 3 sts: slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso.
Dec as follows before 3 sts: K2 tog

Measuring tip: Because of the weight of the yarn, make all measurements while the garment is hanging, otherwise it will be too long when worn.



Dress, front and back piece: Knitted in the round from bottom up. See Measuring tip! Loosely cast on 198-216-234-252-270-288 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm [US 7] with Muskat.
P 1 round, K 1 round, P 1 round, K 1 round, P 1 round. Continue in M.1, work 4 vertical repeats of M.1, and then work M.2 and M.3. Piece now measures approx 15 cm [6’’] and there are 176-192-208-224-240-256 st s on needle. Continue in stockinette st.
Remember the knitting gauge.
When piece measures 24-24-25-25-26-26 cm [9½’’-9½’’-9 3/4’’-9 3/4’’-10 1/4’’-10 1/4’’] insert 6 Marking Threads (MT) as follows: work 27-30-33-36-38-41 sts, MT-1, work 33-35-37-39-43-45 sts, MT-2, work 27-30-33-36-38-41 sts, MT-3 in next st(= side), work 27-30-33-36-38-41 sts, MT-4, work 33-35-37-39-43-45 sts, MT-5, work 27-30-33-36-38-41 sts, MT-6 in next st(= side).
On next round dec 1 st on both sides of sts with MT-3 and MT-6 (i.e. at sides) – see Dec tip 1.
Repeat this dec on every 6-6-7-7-9-9 round a total of 8-8-7-7-6-6 times. At the same time, when doing the 4-4-3-3-2-2 dec, also dec 1 st by the remaining MT as follows: after MT-1 and MT-4 and before MT-2 and MT-5 – see Dec tip 1.
Repeat this dec on every 6-6-7-7-9-9 round (same rounds as dec at sides) a total of 4 times.
After all dec are complete there are 128-144-164-180-200-216 sts on round and piece measures approx 40-40-41-41-42-42 cm [15 3/4’’-15 3/4’’-16 1/8’’-16 1/8’’-16½’’-16½’’].
Continue in stockinette st, remove MT-1, 2, 4 and 5, at the same time for
size XS + XL: dec 2 sts evenly on front piece on first round,
size M: dec 2 sts evenly on back piece on first round, (in order to have 1 st mid front and mid back and to make number of sts fit M.2)
= 126-144-162-180-198-216 sts (no dec in size S, L and XXL).
When piece measures 42-43-44-45-46-47 cm [16½’’-17’’-17 1/4’’-17 3/4’’-18’’-18½’’] work 3 vertical repeats of M.1 – Note! Make sure arrow in diagram is mid front.
Continue in M.2 and M.4 - make sure to place pattern with middle st over middle of M.1 as shown in diagram. (After M.4 there are again an equal number of sts front and back because of the additional inc in M.4 for size XS + M + XL.
Continue in stockinette st.
At the same time when piece measures 56-57-58-60-61-62 cm [22’’-22½’’-22 3/4’’-23 5/8’’-24’’-24 3/8’’] inc 1 st on both sides of MT at sides, and repeat this inc for the 3 smaller sizes on every 2-2-3 cm [3/4’’-3/4’’-1 1/8’’] 3-2-1 times = 156-172-188-204-224-244 sts (= 77-85-93-101-111-121 sts on front and back piece + 1 st each side).
Neckline: At the same time, when piece measures 62-63-64-65-66-67 cm [24 3/8’’-24 3/4’’-25 1/4’’-25½’’-26’’-26 3/8’’] work 4 rows garter st on the 7 sts mid front. Now dec the middle st and continue back and forth on needle. Continue with 3 garter st towards neckline and dec to shape the neckline on every other row – see Dec tip 1: 1 st 11-12-12-12-13-13 times, and then on every 4th row: 1 st 6 times. .
Armhole: At the same time, when piece measures 64-65-66-67-68-69 cm [25 1/4’’-25½’’-26’’-26 3/8’’-26 3/4’’-27 1/8’’] work 4 rows garter st on 13-13-15-17-19-21 sts each side (i.e. st with MT + 6-6-7-8-9-10 sts either side), work remaining sts as before.
Now bind off the middle 7-7-9-11-13-15 sts each side for armhole, and complete front and back pieces separately.

Left front piece: Continue dec for neckline and dec to shape the armhole – see Dec tip 2 – inside 3 garter sts on every other row: 1 st 5-7-8-9-11-13 times. After all dec are complete there are 13-15-16-18-19-21 sts left on shoulder. Continue in stockinette st with 3 garter sts each side and bind off when piece measures 82-84-86-88-90-92 cm [32 1/4"-33"-33 7/8"-34 5/8"-35½"-36 1/4"].

Right front piece: Like left front piece, but mirrored.

Back piece: = 71-79-85-91-99-107 sts. Dec to shape the armhole as described for front piece = 61-65-69-73-77-81 sts. Continue in stockinette st with 3 garter sts each side. When piece measures 76-78-80-82-84-86 cm [30’’-30 3/4’’-31½’’-32 1/4"-33"-33 7/8"] work 4 rows garter st on the middle 31-31-33-33-35-35 sts, and now bind off the middle 25-25-27-27-29-29 sts for neck. Continue with 3 garter sts each side and dec to shape the neckline on every other row: 1 st 5 times – see Dec tip 2 = 13-15-16-18-19-21 sts left on each shoulder. bind off when piece measures 82-84-86-88-90-92 cm [32 1/4"-33"-33 7/8"-34 5/8"-35½"-36 1/4"].

Assembly Sew shoulder seam.
Crochet border: Crochet a border on crochet hook size 4 mm [US G/6] with Muskat round neckline and armholes as follows: 1 sc in first st, *3 ch, skip 3/8”, 1 sc*, repeat from *-*.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = K2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso
symbols = 1 yo
symbols = Bobble. Work 4 sts in the same st by working in front and back of loop alternately. Work 3 rows stockinette st on these 4 sts and work next row as follows: slip 1 st as if to knit, K3 tog, psso.
symbols = mid front
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (79)

country flag Aisa wrote:

Hvor mange garnnøster (Karisma) trenger jeg til en tunika i str. XS, 10 cm kortere enn i oppskriften?

03.12.2023 - 10:00

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Aisa. Vi har ikke strikket den 10 cm kortere så en nøyaktig garnmengde har vi ikke. Men vil tippe 1-2 nøster mindre. mvh DROPS Design

04.12.2023 - 10:19

country flag Christelle R wrote:

Bonjour. Merci pour ces précisions mais après M4, j'ai toujours 144 m puisque les 2 jetés compensent les 2 dim de M3...J'ai du louper quelque chose

20.04.2022 - 14:30

Christelle R answered:

Gloups ! Je viens de voir mon erreur : j'ai tricoté M3 par erreur. Ceci explique cela. Encore merci et bravo pour tous ces magnifiques modèles. Bien cdlt

20.04.2022 - 14:33

country flag Christelle R wrote:

Bonjour. Je fais le modèle en taille S. A 57cm, je dois augmenter 1m de chaque côté des marqueurs des côtés soit 4 aug. par rg. Je dois le faire 2x. Soit 8 aug. + 144 m initiales= 152 or vous indiquez un total de 172 m ! Je ne comprends pas. Merci de votre retour. Bien cordialement

15.04.2022 - 21:32

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Christelle, sur vos 144 mailles, vous tricotez d'abord M.1, puis M.2 et enfin M.4 - et, dans M.4, vous augmentez 2 mailles x 8 fois M.4 tout le tour = 16 soit 160 mailles. Vous augmentez ensuite 3 fois 2 mailles de chaque côté (l'augmentation + les 2 répétitions) soit 160 + 3x4 = 172 mailles. Bon tricot!

19.04.2022 - 14:07

country flag Frauke HENZE wrote:

Hallo, ich habe noch eine Frage. Ich bin jetzt beim Halsausschnitt. Bleiben alle Maschen auf der Rundnadel, oder sollte ich die einzelnen Teile auf eine Hilfsnadel ziehen.? Da ja nach dem Armausschnitt jedes Teil einzeln gestrickt wird. Würde mich freuen über eine rasche Antwort. Mit frdl. Gruß.

13.09.2020 - 20:45

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Henze, wenn Sie die Arbeit teilen, können Sie nur die Maschen, die Sie stricken sollen, auf den Nadeln bleiben und die anderen stilllegen, die werden dann später aufgefassen und gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

14.09.2020 - 09:12

country flag Frauke Henze wrote:

Hallo, ich habe eine Frage zu diesem Modell. Wird das Kleid in Runden gestrickt ( ähnlich wie ein Rvo) Oder von rechts nach links und wieder zurück.? Das ist mir nicht ganz ersichtlich in der Anleitung. Würde mich über eine schnelle Antwort freuen.

25.08.2020 - 16:40

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Henze, das Kleid wird von unten nach oben in Runden bis Halsauschnitt gestrickt, dann wird die Arbeit in Hin- und Rückreihen gestrickt. Nach Armausschnitt wird jedes Teil separat gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

25.08.2020 - 17:06

country flag Vera wrote:

Es geht bei M 1 um Reihe 3 die letzten 4 gezeichneten Maschen. In der Strickschrift werden 3 x hintereinander 2 M rechts zusammengestrickt gefolgt von einer weiteren rechten Masche. Die 3 aufeinanderfolgenden müssen aber nicht zusammen gestrickt werden sondern 1 M rechts abheben, 1 M rechts stricken und die abgehobene M überziehen. Das Symbol ist falsch herum

11.07.2018 - 15:13

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Vera, in M.1 wird man 2 M rechts zusammen am Anfang und am Ende des Diagrams - siehe dieses Video (das Muster im Video ist etwas unterschiedlich aber troztdem wird man auch 2 M re zs stricken). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

11.07.2018 - 15:58

country flag Vera wrote:

Die Strickschrift von M 1 ist falsch.Die 3 letzten Abnahmen im Rapport müssen links geneigt sein sonst entsteht kein Fächer (also 1 M abheben, 1 re, abgehobene überziehen).Weiter bei Gr. L und der Einteilung der Markierungsfäden. So muss es richtig heißen 36 M stricken, 1. Markierungsfaden, 40 M stricken, 2. Markierungsfaden, 36 M stricken, 3. Markierungsfaden,36 M stricken,4. Markierungsfaden,40 M stricken,5. Markierungsfaden,36 M stricken, 6. Markierungsfaden.Sonst sind es 222 M statt 224

11.07.2018 - 13:02

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Vera, M.1 ist so richtig, bei der letzten Reihe in M.1 stricken Sie 3 M li, 11 M re, 4 M li = diese 18 M wiederholen. Bei der Größe L stimmt schon die Maschenanzahl, die 3. Markierungsfaden und die 6. Markierungsfaden sind in einem M eingesetzt, das sind sicher die 2 "fehlenden" Maschen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

11.07.2018 - 13:46

country flag Vibeke Tryk wrote:

Hvordan får jeg en midt maske for og bag når jeg har 80m på forstk og 82 m på bagstk?

14.05.2018 - 01:27

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Vibeke. Merketråd 3 og 6 (i sidene) sitter i hver sin maske, og ikke mellom 2 masker. Du vil derfor ha 79 masker på forstykke og 81 masker på bakstykke, og da blir det en midtmaske på hver del. God fornøyelse

15.05.2018 - 14:58

Jeanette wrote:

When inserting the marking threads (MT) for decreasing the large size, I come up with two extra stitches. The count of stitches don't add up to 224 stitches, but 222. Please tell me what I'm doing wrong. The maths don't work, so I'm thinking I don't understand the pattern. Thank you.

13.12.2017 - 02:15

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jeanette, 2 markers are inserted in a stitch and not between sts, these maybe the both you are missing: work 36 sts, MT-1, work 39 sts, MT-2, work 36 sts, MT-3 in next st (= side), work 36 sts, MT-4, work 39 sts, MT-5, work 36 sts, MT-6 in next st (= side) = 36+39+36+ 1 (st with marker) + 36+39+36 + 1 (st with marker) = 224 sts. Happy knitting!

13.12.2017 - 10:31

country flag María Antonia wrote:

Buenos días En la talla XL, cuando hay que insertar los MP no me salen las cuentas 38 MP1 43 MP2 38 MP3 38 MP4 43 MP5 38 MP6 suman en total 238 puntos, no 240. Saludos

11.09.2016 - 13:02

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Maria Antonia. El MP3 y MP6 hay que insertar dentro del pt y no entre ellos. Son justo los 2 pts que te faltaban en el número total.

17.09.2016 - 18:40