DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.25$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 99-6
Measurements: width at top: approx 152 cm [59 ¾”]
Length mid back: approx 74 cm [29 1/8”]

Materials: DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
250 g color no 1101, white

DROPS crochet hook size 3 mm [US C], or size needed to obtain the correct gauge

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.25$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Crochet gauge: width of 6 diamonds x height of 10 diamonds = 10 x 10 cm [4’’ x 4’’].

Pattern: See diagrams M.1-M.4 and Fig 1 and Fig 2.

Crochet info 1: In diamonds crochet dc in ch-loop. In rose pattern crochet as shown in Fig. 2.

Crochet info 2: Replace the last dc on each row with 1 tr (see Fig. 1). Do this to make sure the edge round the shawl doesn’t become too tight. If it is still too tight, replace 1 dc with a dtr.

Tip: Press the shawl before use for best result.

SHAWL
Crochet from point mid back and up. Crochet 14 ch on crochet hook size 3 mm [US C] and form a ring with a sl st in the first ch = Row 1 (see Fig 1). Continue from start arrow in Fig. 1. After the last row in Fig. 1 repeat the inc each side (= X) until finished measurements. At the same time on row 18 beg the rose pattern. Beg with chart M.1 in the first diamond inside the full diamond along the outer edge (see arrow at the bottom of M.1 and Fig. 2). At the same time on row 42 beg chart M.2 and M.3 at the sides. M.2 begins in the first diamond inside the full diamond at the right side and M.3 begins in diamond no 38 on the same row. After the pattern is complete there are a total of 83 diamonds on row. Continue inc according to Fig. 1 for another 6 rows = 91 diamonds on row. Now crochet 1 row with dc in dc and ch over ch and then 1 vertical repeat of chart M.4. Finish with 1 row with dc in dc and ch over ch.

Crochet border: Crochet round the whole shawl from the top on the right side, down towards the point and up along the left side as follows:
Row 1: 1 sc in the first ch-loop, 4 ch (= 1 tr), 3 tr in the same ch-loop, 1 ch, *4 tr in next ch-loop, 1 ch*, repeat from *-* and finish with 4 tr and 1 sl st in the last ch-loop.
Row 2: 4 ch (= 1 tr), 2 tr in the first ch-loop from previous row, 4 ch, 3 tr in the same ch-loop, *3 tr in the next ch-loop, 4 ch, 3 tr in the same ch-loop*, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in the last ch-loop.


US english explanation to pattern diagram:

M.1:
34 rader/varv = 34 rows
1. rad fra høyre = first row from the right

M.2:
22 rader/varv = 22 rows

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = double crochet. If chain space below, work double crochet around chain space, if double crochet below, work double crochet in stitch.
symbols = treble crochet in stitch
symbols = 3 double crochets worked together: work 3 double crochets in next stitch but wait with last yarn over and pull through on all three double crochets, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn over trough all 4 loops on hook
symbols = chain sticth
symbols = slip stitch
symbols = double crochet around chain space, 4 chain stitches
symbols = 2 double crochets, 3 chain stitches (see symbol definition), 2 double crochets
symbols = first row starts here
symbols = M.4 is worked like this: work first stitch in M.4, repeat * across row until last 3 stitches remain, work last 3 stitches in M.4
symbols = this is how shawl is worked - repeat X
symbols = example of how to work rose pattern (first rows of M.1)
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (36)

country flag JAULIN Nadia wrote:

Bonsoir, Encore moi, pouvez-vous m'expliquer comment je dois faire correspondre le diagramme M1 et la figure 2.Ensuite si je regarde la légende diagramme le motif M1 correspond à 2B, 3ml (voir légende symbole) je ne sais même pas ou cette légende ce trouve, 2B. La figure 2 le symbole correspond à 3B écoulées ensemble. Merci par avance pour votre aide. Cordialement.

18.11.2021 - 14:40

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Jaulin, la fig. 2 montre juste comment tricoter les points noirs du diagrammes (= 1 point noir = 3 brides dans l'arceau, 3 brides écoulées ensemble dans la bride, 3 brides dans l'arceau suivant - donc au 1er rang de M.1 crochetez ainsi après 10 arceaux, au 2ème rang après 5 arceaux (sur l'envers on lit de gauche à droite) etc.. Bon crochet!

18.11.2021 - 17:25

country flag JAULIN Nadia wrote:

Bonsoir, Encore moi, pouvez-vous m'expliquer comment je dois faire correspondre le diagramme M1 et la figure 2.Ensuite si je regarde la légende diagramme le motif M1 correspond à 2B, 3ml (voir légende symbole) je ne sais même pas ou cette légende ce trouve, 2B. La figure 2 le symbole correspond à 3B écoulées ensemble. Merci par avance pour votre aide. Cordialement.

16.11.2021 - 17:47

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Jaulin, dans les diagrammes vous retrouvez 1 point noir, ce point noir se crochète comme indiqué dans la fig.2 = 3 brides autour de l'arceau, 3 brides écoulées ensemble dans la bride du rang précédent, 3 brides dans l'arceau suivant. Lorsque Fig.1 est terminé, continuez à augmenter de chaque côté comme dans X, le rang avec 16 carrés entiers entre les augmentations de X, crochetez M.1: le 1er carré de M.1 se fait juste après les augmentations de X. (après les 5 double-brides). Bon crochet!

17.11.2021 - 08:05

country flag JAULIN Nadia wrote:

Merci infiniment de votre aide.

16.11.2021 - 15:55

country flag JAULIN Nadia wrote:

Bonsoir, Pouvez vous m'expliquer le démarrage de la figure N° 1. J'ai fait mes 14 ml, fermer par une mc ensuite 3ml, 1B autour de l'arceau une double bride dans la 4ème maille (je pense) et ensuite je ne sais pas quoi faire, dans quel sens je dois lire la figure N° 1. Merci de votre aide.

15.11.2021 - 19:08

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Jaulin, pour les 14 ml et 1 mc, c'est juste, mais au 1er rang (à la flèche), crochetez: 7 mailles en l'air + 1 bride dans le rond de mailles en l'air, 4 mailles en l'air, 1 double-bride dans l'arceau. Tournez, crochetez: 7 mailles en l'air, 1 bride dans le 1er arceau, 4 mailles en l'air, 1 bride dans le 2ème arceau, 4 mailles en l'air, 1 double-bride dans la 4ème maille en l'air du début du rang précédent, etc.. Bon crochet!

16.11.2021 - 08:43

country flag Elba Viviana Vergara Wetzell wrote:

Me encanta seguir su pagina pero me gustaria me ayuden a encontrar otro modelo de chal con diseño con su respectivo patron paso a paso.gracias.

04.11.2020 - 06:07

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Elba, puedes ver todos los modelos de chales a ganchillo filtrando en la búsqueda en la página principal; a continuación tienes el enlace a la lista: https://www.garnstudio.com/search.php?action=search&w=chal&c=0&mt=2&t=0&k=0&yg=0&y=0&col=0&df=0&lang=es

19.11.2020 - 11:44

country flag Charlotte Worm wrote:

Jeg kan ikke få OMG 2 i fig m1 til at passe har 2n mellemrum for meget

02.08.2019 - 12:56

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Charlotte, det er svært at sige hvor det går galt. Men hvis du sørger for at hækle som forklaringen af de 2 prikker i diagrammet, lige over den ene prik på første række i diagrammet, så skal det nok blive super flot. God fornøjelse! :)

02.08.2019 - 13:37

country flag Muriel wrote:

Impossible d'avoir les diagrammes et ce sur 3 appareils différents et 3 navigateurs

01.09.2018 - 06:32

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Muriel, une récente modification des diagrammes a été effectuée, essayez à nouveau, tout devrait fonctionner. Bon crochet!

06.09.2018 - 09:43

country flag Christine Bezemer wrote:

Jeg forstår ikke fig. 2 kan Ikke få det til at stemme, fordi de 3 st i samme m giver for mange masker i næste række

19.05.2018 - 11:38

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Christine, Jo på 2.række hækler du 1 gruppe af 3 st imellem hver af de yderste st og så fordeler du de 4 midterste st imellem de to grupper. St på ydersiden af grupperne hækles i lm. God fornøjelse!

21.05.2018 - 09:46

country flag M.J. wrote:

Dat had ik inderdaad gedaan...maar nu blijft mijn vraag nog steeds of ik het dus goed begrijp dat er nu dus 7 stokjes op de 4 lossen gaan komen in M4?

11.05.2018 - 14:22

DROPS Design answered:

Hallo M.J., Aha, ik had je vraag verkeerd begrepen. Volgens het patroon inderdaad 7 stokjes in de 4 lossen, maar eerlijk gezegd lijkt het me wat veel. Kijk even hoe je uitkomt, misschien is 5 of zelfs 4 stokjes voldoende. Het gaat er denk ik om dat je dichte en open blokjes hebt, zeg maar.

12.05.2018 - 16:13

country flag Marjon wrote:

Ik begrijp M4 nog steeds niet...ik ben klaar met de doek tot M4...omdat deze vakjes niet in verband maar recht boven elkaar staan, was mijn vraag of er dus 7 stokjes op 4 lossen moeten nu? Ipv bij de rest van de doek 2 stokjes, 3 stokjes in 1 stokje, 2 stokjes.

06.05.2018 - 21:48

DROPS Design answered:

Hallo Marjon, Aan het eind bij de beschrijving van de omslagdoek staat beschreven dat je een toer haakt met stokjes in stokjes en lossen boven lossen. Op die manier komen de hokjes a.h.w. boven elkaar en kun je verder met M.4

10.05.2018 - 11:57