DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g

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Get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.00$.

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DROPS 52-20

DROPS "Trip Sack" in Karisma Superwash

DROPS 52-20
Suggest a name
Sizes: 0/3 (6/9 - 12/18) months
Finished measurements: 84 (88-94) cm [33" (34-⅝" - 37")]

Materials: DROPS KARISMA SUPERWASH from Garnstudio
350 (400-450) g col. 18, red
100 (100-100) g col. 01, natural white

DROPS 2.5 mm [US 1] and 3.5 mm [US 4] circular needles and double pointed needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.

7 DROPS tin buttons (troll, button no. 606).

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.

Gauge: 22 sts and 30 rows on larger needle in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm [4" x 4"]

Pattern: See charts (1 chart = 1 repeat). The pattern is seen from the right side and is knit entirely in stockinette stitch. All charts have arrows indicating the starting points for different sizes.

Rib: * knit 1, purl 1 *, repeat from * - *.

Body: Cast on 184 (192-208) sts on larger circular needles with red; join and place a marker at the join. Knit 2 rows stockinette stitch. Attach a marker on the other side; front and back = 92 (96-104) sts. Knit Pattern 1 - start at the appropriate arrow on the chart and knit across the front, start at the arrow again and knit across the back. After Pattern 1 repeat Pattern 2 (start at the appropriate arrow on the chart and knit across the front, start at the arrow again and knit across the back) until the work measures approximately 47 (52-58) cm [18.5" (20.5" - 22-⅞")] - adjust for complete pattern. At the same time, when the work measures 24 (27-33) cm [9.5" (10-⅝" - 13")], bind off 4 sts at the center front for placket = 180 (188-204) sts. Knit the body back and forth on the needles. After Pattern 2 repeat Pattern 3 to finished dimensions. Start at the appropriate arrow and knit across the right front, start at the arrow again and knit across the back, start at the arrow again and knit across the left front. At the same time, when the work measures 52 (56-60) cm [20.5" (22" - 23-⅝")], bind off for armholes: knit 38 (40-42) sts for the front, bind off 12 (12-16) sts, knit 80 (84-88) sts for the back, bind off 12 (12-16) sts, knit 38 (40-42) sts for the front. Knit the rest of the fronts and back separately.

Back: = 80 (84-92) sts. Continue the pattern as established. When the work measures 65 (70-76) cm [25-⅝" (27-⅝" - 29-⅞")], put the center 32 (34-36) sts on a stitch holder for the neck, then dec 1 st at each neck edge on the next row. Bind off after Pattern 3 is complete. The work measures approximately 67 (72-78) cm [26-⅜" (28.25" - 30.75")].

Left Front: = 38 (40-45) sts. Continue the pattern as established. When the work measures 62 (67-73) cm [24-⅜" (26-⅜" - 28.75")], bind off for the neck every other row: 9 (10-11) sts 1 time, 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 2 times. Bind off after Pattern 3 is complete. The work measures approximately 67 (72-78) cm [26-⅜" (28.25" - 30.75")].

Right Front: Knit like the left, reversing neck shaping.

Sleeves: Cast on 38 (40-42) sts on smaller double pointed needles with red; join and place a marker at the join. Knit 3 cm [1.25"] rib. Change to larger double pointed needles and knit Pattern 1, increasing 4 (4-4) sts evenly distributed on the first row = 42 (44-46) sts. After the rib, inc 1 st each side of marker 12 (13-17) times:
Sizes 0/3 + 6/9 mos.: every row
Size 12/18 mos.: inc on rows 1, 3, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13, 15, 16, 18, 20, 21, 23, 25, 26 and 28
= 66 (70-80) sts. After Pattern 1 repeat Pattern 2 to finished dimensions. When the work measures 8 (13-14.5) cm [3-⅛" (5-⅛" - 5.75")], divide the work at the marker and knit the rest back and forth on the needles. When the work measures 11 (16-18) cm [4.25" (6.25" - 7")], bind off for sleeve caps on either side every other row: 7 (7-8) sts 3 times, bind off all sts. The work measures approximately 13 (17-20) cm [5-⅛" (6.75" - 7-⅞")].

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Pick up approximately 70-74 sts around the neck on smaller double pointed needles with red and knit 2 cm [0.75"] rib, bind off. Left buttonband: Pick up approximately 94 sts on smaller needles with red along the left front from the right side and knit 2 cm [0.75"] rib, bind off. Right buttonband: knit like the left, but after 1 cm [3/8"] make 7 buttonholes evenly distributed on the buttonband (1 buttonhole = bind off 2 sts and cast on 2 sts on the next row). Bind off. Sew the button bands together at the bottom of the split. Sew the sleeves to the body. Sew on the buttons.

NOTE: When the "sack" becomes too small you can turn it into a cardigan by cutting at the beginning of the buttonband and knitting approximately 4 cm [1.5"] of ribbing.

HAT:

Sizes: 0/3 - 6/9 (12/18 - 24) months

Materials: Garnstudio KARISMA SUPERWASH
50-50 (100-100) g col. 01, natural white

DROPS 3.5 mm [US 4] needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

Gauge: 22 sts and 45 rows in garter stitch = 10 x 10 cm [4" x 4"]

Garter Stitch, when knitting flat: Knit all sts, all rows.
Garter Stitch, when knitting in the round: *Rnd 1, knit. Rnd 2, purl *. Repeat from * - *.

Hat: The hat is worked from one side of the head to the other -- the edge shaping forms points on both sides.
Cast on 28-32 (36-40) sts and knit garter stitch. Knit 1 row, increasing 1 st on the right side and decreasing 1 st on the left side. Establish pattern as follows:
1st row (right side): knit 2, yarn over, knit until 4 sts remain; K 2 tog into back of stitch, knit 2.
2nd row (wrong side): Knit across row until you reach the yarn over from the previous row, knit the yarn over in the back of the st and then K 2 sts.
Repeat these 2 rows until the work measures 5.5 - 6 (6.5 - 7) cm [2-⅛" - 2-⅜" (2.5" - 2.75")].
Dec 1 st on the right side and inc 1 st on the left side as follows:
1st row (right side): knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit until 2 sts remain, yarn over, knit 2.
2nd row (wrong side): knit 2, knit 1 into back of the yarn over, knit to the end of the row.
Repeat these 2 rows until an additional 5.5 - 6 (6.5 - 7) cm [2-⅛" - 2-⅜" (2.5" - 2.75")] have been worked. Continue in garter st, increasing 1 st on the right side every 4th row and decreasing 1 st on the left side every other row until the work measures 15.5 - 17 (17.5 - 18) cm [6-⅛" - 6.75" (6-⅞" - 7")] from the start. This is the center of the hat. Put a marker on each side of the work. Continue to knit the other half - but work all shaping in reverse. Bind off when the work measures 31-34 (35-36) cm [12.25" - 13-⅜" (13.75" - 14-⅛")].

Assembly: The front is the part of the work which has three whole points and the back is the part of the work which has 2 whole points and 2 half points. Sew the hat together in the back by sewing the first half point against the first half of the first whole point. Then sew the other half of the first whole point to the first half of the second whole point. Then sew the other (second) half of the second whole point to the last half point. Finally, sew the hat together in the center of the back.

I-cord: Cast on 4 sts on double-pointed needles and knit the first row. * Do not turn the work, but bring the yarn behind the work, tighten the yarn and knit the sts again from the right side. * Repeat from * - * until the cord measures 15-15 (16-17) cm [5-⅞" - 5-⅞" (6.25" - 6.75")], bind off. Knit another cord and sew them onto the wrong side of the points on each side of the hat.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

	= red
	= off white

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (13)

Christine Cookette89 wrote:

Merci pour votre réponse claire et rapide !

03.10.2024 - 11:15

Bonjour Comment faut-il coudre le bonnet au trip sack ? Le patron dit seulement « Finally, sew the hat together in the center of the back » Juste un point au milieu du bonnet et du dos du vêtement ? Ou coudre le rang de montage et celui de rabattage du bonnet tout le long de l’intérieur du col ??? Merci pour votre réponse j’espère

02.10.2024 - 20:25

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Cookette, le bonnet n'est pas assemblé au nid d'ange, il est fait séparément; pour son assemblage, retrouvez cette vidéo et/ou bien cette leçon qui montre comment réaliser un bonnet similaire et comment l'assembler. Bon tricot!

03.10.2024 - 09:26

Karin Pauli wrote:

Ich suche die Anleitungzuzu schlicht &moder aus der Tina Nr.52 v. 16.12.20

18.12.2020 - 14:03

Colle wrote:

I am working on the Trip Sack, and am confused with the decreases on the sleeves. The pattern reads, "When the work measures 11 (16-18) cm [4.25" (6.25" - 7")], bind off for sleeve caps on either side every other row: 7 (7-8) sts 3 times, bind off all sts". Does this mean to do all decreases on one side? Can you rephrase the directions in other words?

15.10.2020 - 20:24

Dear Mrs Colle, you will have to cast off 7-7-8 sts at the beginning of the next 6 rows (= you will cast off 7-7-8 sts on each side 3 times = 21-21-24 sts in total on each side). Hope this helps. Happy knitting!

16.10.2020 - 09:54

I am working on the sleeves of the Trip sack. I am confused with your explaination of decreasing (page 6) “when the work measures 11cm, bind off for sleeve caps on either side, every other row 7 stitches, 3 times “. Does this mean that all decreases are done on one edge? If done on alternating sides, won’ t one edge have an extra 7 stitches of decrease?

15.10.2020 - 19:14

Hi Colle, You bind off on both sides 7 stitches x 3 ( a total of 42 stitches decreased) . Happy knitting!

16.10.2020 - 08:25

Ghis wrote:

Bonjour, tous mes meilleurs voeux à vous tous ce modèle existe til en français ??? Bien cordialement

22.01.2020 - 15:05

Bonjour Ghis, merci beaucoup, meilleurs vœux également! Et bonne nouvelle: tous nos modèles sont disponibles en français, cliquez sur le menu déroulant sous la photo pour sélectionner "français". Bon tricot!

22.01.2020 - 15:42

Saint-Jean wrote:

A quelle hauteur doit-on commencer à tricoter M3 ? Merci

26.09.2015 - 05:03

Bonjour Mme Saint-Jean, on tricote M.2 jusqu'à ce que l'ouvrage mesure 47-52-58 cm de hauteur totale - ajustez la hauteur pour que le dernier M.2 en hauteur soit terminé et tricotez ensuite M.3. Bon tricot!

28.09.2015 - 09:25

Waltraud wrote:

Hi, gibt es auch für das Mützchen eine Anleitung? Gruß w.

21.09.2015 - 15:03

Die Übersetzung der Anleitung für die Mütze steht noch aus. Sie erfolgt in Kürze, Sie finden Sie dann unter der gleichen Modellnummer unter dem Schlafsack.

27.09.2015 - 22:24

DROPS Design NL wrote:

Dat hoort helemaal niet bij het patroon. Wel grappig dat dit zo veel jaren in alle talen heeft gestaan. Maar het patroon is nu helemaal aangepast. Voor informatie over het afwerken van de muts, kan je eventueel kijken onder de instructievideo's. Gr. Tine

26.02.2010 - 13:40

Irene wrote:

Herhaal deze 2 nld nog 5,5-6 (6,5-7) cm. Wissel naar paars en brei verder door...... Waar/wat is paars? Andere gaaren of andere naalden?

25.02.2010 - 13:31

DROPS 52-20

DROPS "Trip Sack" in Karisma Superwash

You might also like...

Pattern instructions

Diagram

How to read a schematic drawing

How to read knitting diagrams

How to measure your tension/gauge

How to change yarns or yarn amounts

How to choose yarn!

Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

How can I get help with a DROPS pattern?

How to cast on

How to knitt stitches

How to purl stitches

How to decrease stitches

How to cast off from the right side

How to cast off from the wrong side

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 52-20

Comments / Questions (13)

DROPS 52-20

DROPS "Trip Sack" in Karisma Superwash

Diagram explanations

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	DROPS Karisma uni colour 100% Wool	3.00 $ /50g	Order
	DROPS Karisma mix 100% Wool	3.00 $ /50g	Order

	DROPS Karisma uni colour 100% Wool 3.00 $ /50g Order
	DROPS Karisma mix 100% Wool 3.00 $ /50g Order