DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.95 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 74-21
Sizes: XS - S - M - L - XL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 90-96-102-108-114 cm [35-3/8" - 37.75" - 40-1/8" - 42.5" - 44-7/8"]
Waist: 84-90-96-102-108 cm [33" - 35-3/8" - 37.75" - 40-1/8" - 42.5"]

Materials: DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
500-550-600-650-700 gr nr 18, white.

5 DROPS Pearl shell buttons nr 521

DROPS 3.5 mm [US 4] and 4 mm [US 6] needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.
Circular needles 3.5 mm [US 4] (for collar and button band), or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.95 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Gauge: 20 sts x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm on larger needles in stockinette st.

Seed Stitch (on an even number of sts):
Row 1: * K 1, P 1 *
Row 2: * P 1, K 1 *
Repeat Rows 1-2.

Pattern 1: See chart. The pattern is seen from the right side. Arrows indicate the starting point for different sizes for the right front only – the chart is the same for all sizes for the back and left front.

Pattern 2: divisible by 8 + 2 sts (1 edge st each side)
Row 1 (right side row): K 1 (edge st), * yo, K 1 through back of st, yo, sl 1, K 1, psso, K 5 *, repeat from * - *, K 1 (edge st).
Row 2 (wrong side row): P 1 (edge st), * P 4, P 2 tog through back of sts, P 3 *, repeat from * - *, P 1 (edge st).
Row 3: K 1, * yo, K 1 through back of st, yo, K 2, sl 1, K 1, psso, K 3 *, repeat from * - *, K 1.
Row 4: P 1, * P 2, P 2 tog through back of sts, P 5*, repeat from * - *, P 1.
Row 5: K 1, * K 1 through back of st, yo, K 4, sl 1, K 1, psso, K 1, yo *, repeat from * - *, K 1.
Row 6: P 1, * P 1, P 2 tog through back of st, P 6 *, repeat from * - *, P 1.
Row 7: K 1, * K 5, K 2 tog, yo, K 1 through back of st, yo *, repeat from * - *, K 1.
Row 8: P 1, * P 3, P 2 tog, P 4 *, repeat from * - *, P 1.
Row 9: K 1, * K 3, K 2 tog, K 2, yo, K 1 through back of st, yo *, repeat from * - *, K 1.
Row 10: P 1, * P 5, P 2 tog, P 2 *, repeat from * - *, P 1.
Row 11: K 1, * yo, K 1, K 2 tog, K 4, yo, K 1 through back of st *, repeat from * - *, K 1.
Row 12: P 1, * P 6, P 2 tog, P 1 *, repeat from * - *, P 1.
Repeat rows 1-12.
------------------------------------------------------------------

Back:
Cast on 86-92-98-104-110 sts on smaller needles. Knit 5 rows seed st, change to larger needles and Pattern 1 - start pattern at lower right corner on chart for all sizes, but do not knit 1 edge st at each side in the pattern.
When the piece measures 7 cm inc 1 st at each side every 8 cm a total of 3 times = 92-98-104-110-116 sts - the increased sts are knit in the pattern as you go along.
When the piece measures 34-35-36-37-38 cm bind off for armhole at each side every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 0-1-2-3-4 times and 1 st 2-3-4-5-6 times = 82 sts remain for all sizes. When the piece measures 52-54-56-58-60 cm bind off the center 20 sts for the neck. On the next row dec 1 st at each neck edge = 30 sts remain on each shoulder. Bind off when the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62 cm.

Right front:
Cast on 44-47-50-53-56 sts on smaller needles. Knit 5 rows seed st, change to larger needles and Pattern 1, starting from center front edge at appropriate arrow on the chart (1 edge st at each side is not knit in the pattern).
When the piece measures 7 cm inc 1 st at the side edge every 8 cm a total of 3 times = 47-50-53-56-59 sts - the increased sts are knit in the pattern as you go along.
Read the entire next section before knitting:
Neckband: When the piece measures 30-32-34-36-38 cm bind off 24 sts at center front edge for neck. Then dec 1 st for the neck on alternately every 4th and 5th row a total of 13 times.
Armhole: At the same time when the piece measures 34-35-36-37-38 cm bind off for armhole at the side as on back.
After all armhole and neck shaping is complete 5 sts remain on each shoulder. Bind off when the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62 cm.

Left front:
Cast on and knit the same as the right - start Pattern 1 at lower right corner so that the pattern will be the same on each side at the center front – for armhole and neck reverse all shaping.

Sleeve:
Cast on 42-42-50-50-50 sts on smaller needles. Knit Pattern 2 for 13 cm. Change to larger needles and Pattern 1, increasing 8-8-6-6-6 sts evenly distributed on the 1st row = 50-50-56-56-56 sts. When the piece measures 16 cm inc 1 st at each side every 7-6-6-5-4 rows a total of 12-14-13-15-17 times = 74-78-82-86-90 sts - the increased sts are knit in the pattern as you go along.
When sleeve measures 49-49-47-47-45 cm bind off for sleeve cap at each side every other row: 4 sts 1 time, 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 3 times, 1 st 0-0-4-5-8 times, then bind off 2 sts at each side until the piece measures 55-56-56-57-57 cm and then bind off 3 sts 1 time. The piece measures approx. 56-57-57-58-58 cm, bind off the remaining sts.

Assembly:
Right collar: Pick up 58 sts on smaller needles along left neck edge and knit approx. 12 cm of Pattern 2 - see instructions above, put all sts on a st holder.
Left collar: knit the same as the right collar.
Sew shoulder seams.

Right button band and neckband:
Pick up on smaller circular needles approx. 62-76 sts along right button band, then put 58 sts from right collar back on needles and pick up approx. 12 sts to center back = 132 -146 sts. Knit 2 rows seed st. On the next row make 5 buttonholes evenly distributed along button bands - the bottom should be approx. 1 cm from bottom edge and the top should be just before the collar starts. 1 buttonhole = K 2 tog, yo.
Knit 1 row seed st more, then bind off sts around back of the neck and along the collar in seed st.
Continue with 3 rows seed st along button bands – K 2 tog the 2 sts at the top of button bands every row so that there will be a smooth transition from neckband. After these 3 rows bind off the remaining sts in seed st.
Left button band and neckband: Knit the same as the right, reversing all shaping and without buttonholes.
Sew in sleeves. Sew sleeve and side seams using edge sts as a seam allowance. Sew on buttons.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = stockinette st/knit (as seen from the right side)
symbols = reverse stockinette st/purl (as seen from the right side)
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (64)

country flag Sophie wrote:

Hej! När jag plockar upp för framkant blir det ju avigsidan jag börjar sticka på. Stämmer det? Och...när jag plockat upp 62-76 maskor och ska sätta tillbaka de 58 maskorna, så får jag ju klippa av tråden. Likadant före de ca 12 maskorna. Finns det ett sätt att göra annorlunda, så det inte blir så trådigt? Koftan är väldigt fin/Sophie

26.10.2023 - 19:51

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Sophie, du kan sticka maskorna du sätter tillbaka, så behöver du inte klippa tråden:)

27.10.2023 - 15:33

country flag Charpenay wrote:

Il manque le diagramme M2

16.09.2023 - 15:52

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Charpeneay, en fait de diagramme, le point fantaisie M.2 est expliqué en texte au début des explications sous Point fantaisie 2 : . Bon tricot!

18.09.2023 - 16:30

country flag Irma Bösch wrote:

Hallo Betrifft Kragen: Wenn ich die 58 Maschen aufgenommen habe, befinde ich mich an der Vorderseite. Das heisst es geht im Muster 2 auf der Rückreihe weiter, dadurch entfällt die 1. Runde des Musters?Herzlichen Dank für Rückmeldung Irma Bösch

14.06.2023 - 10:44

country flag Le Terrier wrote:

Je souhaite faire ce gilet mais en ajoutant des poches Quelle serait la la largeur et hauteur des poches et nombre de maille pour un bel effet sans alourdir le gilet Merci

30.10.2022 - 19:40

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Le Terrier, nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir adapter chacun de nos modèles à chaque demande, vous pouvez vous inspirer de nos modèles avec poches. Merci pour votre compréhension. Bon tricot!

31.10.2022 - 09:10

country flag Schneeberger Manuela wrote:

Guten Tag Nach meiner Meinung passt die Anleitung nicht zum Foto. Möchte gerne diese Jacke stricken, aber die Beschreibung ist für eine Jacke mit Kragen. Können Sie mir die richtige Anleitung zum Foto Drops 74-21 senden? Vielen Dank für Ihre Bemühungen. Manuela

14.10.2022 - 20:49

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Schneeberger, der sogennante Teil "Kragen" gilt hier für das Lochmuster, die am Ende seitlich gestrickt wird und dann an den abgeketteten Maschen beim beiden Vorderteil angenäht wird. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

17.10.2022 - 08:57

country flag Susan Arnold wrote:

Thank you so much. It now makes sense! I have just returned to knitting after many years and sometimes am uncertain of instructions. Thanks again! P.S. your patterns are lovely!

01.08.2022 - 13:36

country flag Susan Arnold wrote:

Please will you answer my two questions asap because I can’t continue and finish this cardigan without your advise. Thank you.

28.07.2022 - 12:00

country flag Susan Arnold wrote:

In addition to my earlier question, please can you tell me where to start picking up the 58 stitches on the front piece neck edge? Do I include the bound off 24 stitch edge or start after that! Really confused! Thank you.

26.07.2022 - 18:23

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Arnold, see previous answer - you will knit up stitches along the beg/end of rows from after the 24 sts cast off to the top of shoulder (and reversed for other front piece). This lace edge is worked sideways. Happy knitting!

01.08.2022 - 11:19

country flag Susan Arnold wrote:

Hello, having read other knitters confusion re the lace pattern section of the garment (English ones only), and your answers, I’m still unsure about how to attach this section to the front. Having cast off 24 stitches as per instructions I understand I must then finish the front without doing the lace section. So do I pick up the 58 sts from the left edge of thin section already knit. If so is the lace section knit sideways? Rather confused!

25.07.2022 - 13:45

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Arnold, correct, the lace pattern will be worked sideways, ie pick up 58 sts along the front side after you have cast off the 24 sts and you will then seew afterwards the 12 cm lace pattern along the 24 sts cast off for neck. Happy knitting!

01.08.2022 - 11:14

country flag Vivienne Fellows wrote:

Midway through the third to last line of instructions for sleeves states " then bind off 2 sts at each side until the piece measures 55-56-56-57-57 cm" I presume this is a typo and should read " then bind off 2 sts at each side AND CONTINUE until the piece measures 55-56-56-57-57 cm " Am I correct in this assumption?

21.06.2022 - 19:29

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Vivienne, you need to continue binding off 2 sts at each side on each 2nd row until the piece measures 55-56-56-57-57 cm. Happy knitting!

21.06.2022 - 22:38