The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
All measurements in charts are in cm.
= K on RS, P on WS | |
= P on RS, K on WS |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
DROPS 36-4 |
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DROPS Ladies and Mens Textured Sweater in “Karisma Superwash”.
DROPS 36-4 |
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Knitting gauge: 21sts x 26 rows on needles size 4 mm / US 6 in pattern = 10x10cm. Rib: *K2, P4*. Seed stitch: 1st row: K1, P1. 2nd row: P over K and K over P. Repeat 1st and 2nd row. Pattern: See diagram. Pattern is read from right to left, and is seen from RS. herre=mens / dame=ladies Ladies long version: Body: Cast on 14 sts more and inc14 sts less after the rib. Add 10 cm / 4" to measurements for sleeve, neck and binding off edge. Length= 70-72 cm. 150 g additional yarn is required. Back and Front knitted as one piece in the round, then divided at armhole and back and front knitted separately. Body: Figures in () = mens sizes. Cast on 168-198 (198-204) sts on long circular needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 with color no 1. Knit 7 cm / 2¾" rib. Change to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6, knit stockinette st and at the same time increase 66-66 (66-72) sts evenly on first round = 252-264 (264- 276) sts. Continue in pattern. Lady M/L + Mens S/M: start at arrow and knit round. Lady S/M + Mens M/L: start at the arrow and knit front, then start at the arrow again and knit back. Remember to check your gauge. Continue until piece measures 31-32 (35-36) cm. Divide the work and knit the back and front separately. Front: = 126-132 (1132-138) sts. Continue in pattern on these sts. Knitting back and forth on circular needles. Continue until piece measures 42-44 (47-48) cm. Bind off centre 6 sts for neck opening. Work each side separately. Continue until piece measures 55-57 (60-61) cm. Decrease at neck edge on every other row: 12-12 (13-14) sts. once, 3 sts. once, 2 sts. once, 1 st. 3 times. Continue until piece measures 60-62 (65-66) cm. Bind off remaining sts. Back: = 126-132 (132-138) sts. Knit pattern as front. Continue until piece measures 58-60 (63-64) cm. Bind off centre 42-42 (44-46) sts for neck, then decrease 2 sts. on neck edge on next row. Continue until piece measures 60-62 (65-66) cm. Bind off remaining sts. Sleeves: Cast on 48-48 (48-54) sts on short circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with color no.1. Knit 6 cm / 2⅜" rib. Change to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6, knit stockinette st and at the same time increase 12-14 (14-8) sts evenly on first round = 60-62 (62-62) sts. Continue in pattern and make sure you place 1 repeat central on top of sleeve. At the same time inc sts. underneath arm as follows: 2 sts 31-32(32-32) times, for Ladies every 3rd round. for Mens, alternatively between every 3rd and 4th round. = 122-126 (126-126) sts. Knit the increased sts into the pattern as you are going. Continue until piece measures 48-48 (53-53) cm. Bind off. Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Pick up 102 or 108 sts around neck on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with color no.1. Continue in stockinette st, knit 4 rows with WS facing, back and forth on needle starting at centre front. Bind off. Pick up 102 or 108 sts (+ 2 edge sts next to slit) again on the inside of the edge in the same sts and knit 7cm rib back and forth on needle from centre front (make sure you have 2 k sts on each side of centre front). Bind off. Pick up 60 sts on left side of slit and knit 3 rows in seed st, bind off. Pick up 60 sts again on the inside of the slit in same sts and knit 3 rows seed st. Bind off. Repeat on right side of slit. Insert zipper between the two seed st edges on left side of slit and sew. Repeat along right side. Secure bottom of slit. Sew in sleeves. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogs and 11422 patterns - 11417 of which are translated into English (US/in).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (10)
Jude Crawshaw wrote:
Hi there, l am knitting this pattern for a man, 36-4, medium to large. After the 7cms of rib, change of needle and increase of stitches, l am confused by the instruction to “start at the arrow and knit front, then start at the arrow and knit back” what does this actually mean? Could you please give me a clearer explanation.
22.12.2023 - 18:35DROPS Design answered:
Dear Jude, now you start working the chart. You start working from the arrow for your size (in your case, the arrow on the right) and work towards the left. You can see more information here: https://www.garnstudio.com/lesson.php?id=68&cid=19. Work the chart until reaching the stitches for the back piece, where you will restart the chart from the arrow and again work towards the left. So the front and back pieces should be identical and not continue one from the other. Happy knitting!
28.12.2023 - 19:31Gunilla Iveberg wrote:
Tack för tidigare svar! Stickar herrtröjan nr 36-4 med vanliga stickor, mosstickning och inte något mönster. Monteringen; Ska man dela på halskragen dvs. plocka upp 54 maskor och sticka varje sida för sig? Börja med stickor nr 3, men varför ska man sticka 4 varv slätt? Den fortsatta meningen "fram och tillbaka på st? Vad är st? Gunilla Iveberg
13.12.2021 - 18:43DROPS Design answered:
Hej Gunilla. Ja halskragen är nu delad, men du har sytt ihop axelsömmarna så du plockar upp från ena sidan av halskanten och runt hela tröjan till andra sidan (108 m). Det är den kanten du ser på bilden som skapas av de 4 varv slätstickning med avigsidan ut. "St" betyder stickan, så fram och tillbaka på stickan. Mvh DROPS Design
14.12.2021 - 11:27Gunilla Iveberg wrote:
Modell 36-4 När framstycket ska avmaskas mot halsen står det"avm mot halsen på. var 2a v: 12-12(13-14)m x 1,3m x 1,2 m x 1,1m x 3". Hur ska man tolka denna mening? Till en början ska man avmaska varannat varv 14 gånger, men vad hur stickar man 1,3 m osv??? Mvh Gunilla Iveberg
22.11.2021 - 15:53DROPS Design answered:
Hej Gunilla. Du maskar av mot halsen på vartannat varv: 14 m 1 gång, 3 m 1 gång, 2 m 1 gång, 1 m 3 gånger. Mvh DROPS Design
23.11.2021 - 09:14Da Silva wrote:
Merci beaucoup pour votre aide. Je m’y mets...
16.01.2018 - 09:56Da Silva wrote:
La deuxie Fois je relève les mailles à l’endroit ou envers?
15.01.2018 - 19:26DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Da Silva, la 2ème fois, relevez les mailles sur l'envers pour que la housse fasse une jolie finition des 2 côtés de l'ouvrage. Bon tricot!
16.01.2018 - 09:10Da Silva wrote:
Je suis bloquer au niveau du col. Quand c’est indiqué « relever 60 m le long du côté gauche de nouveau,dans les mêmes mailles... » c.est quoi ces mêmes mailles? C’est la première fois que je tricote un col aviateur. J’ai vraiment besoin d’aide pour pouvoir terminer ce pull. Merci
15.01.2018 - 14:43DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Da Silva, vous allez tricoter une petite housse pour y glisser la fermeture à glissière, on va donc tricoter 2 bordures en relevant les mailles 2 fois le long des bordures des devants, au même niveau les 2 fois. Bon tricot!
15.01.2018 - 15:52Marianne wrote:
Jeg vil have lynlås hele vejen ned. Jeg vil strikke på rundpind og så sy på maskine ned i midten og klippe op. Hvor mange flere masker skal jeg eventuelt slå op?
11.08.2017 - 17:45DROPS Design answered:
Hej, Her ser du hvordan du gør
How to knit steeks and cut open from Garnstudio Drops design on Vimeo.
17.08.2017 - 15:45Marlies Van Mulken wrote:
Vraag over afwerking rond de hals. Eerst aantal steken opnemen, enkele rijen breien en vervolgens weer afwerken. Dan nogmaals steken opnemen voor de kraag. Moet het eerste randje omgevouwd worden en voor de kraag de steken opgenomen worden over deze dubbelgevouwen rand of blijft dit los?
01.11.2013 - 17:41DROPS Design answered:
Je moet deze rand niet opvouwen, je neemt de st op van de binnenkant van de net gebreide rand en breit hier de boordsteek. Kijk op de foto (van de man), hier zie je ook de rand voor de boordsteek. Veel breiplezier!
04.11.2013 - 19:41Bente Phillip Madsen wrote:
Jeg tog den Norske eller Svenske opskrift,brugte goggle transleat,og udskrev.
19.11.2010 - 17:11Vivi Madsen wrote:
Opskrift nr. 36-4 og andre har ingen strikke opskrift med når jeg vil printe dem ud. Hvordan kan det være ? mvh. Vivi Madsen.
22.02.2010 - 11:10