DROPS Cotton Viscose
DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 0.90 £ /50g
DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 82-13
Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL

Finished measurements:
Bust: 84-90-96-106-114 cm
Hem: 70-76-84-94-100 cm
The measurements may seem a little small, but the garment will be very stretchy, so knit a smaller size than usual.

Materials: DROPS COTTON-VISCOSE from Garnstudio
100-100-150-150-150 gr each of the following colors: nr 04 mustard, nr 10 moss green and nr 11 khaki green.

and use: DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
100-100-100-100-100 gr each of the following colors: nr 14 olive, nr 28 orange, nr 31 pistachio and nr 32 green/pink variegated

DROPS 15 mm circular needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Cotton Viscose
DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 0.90 £ /50g

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Gauge: 6 sts x 8 rows with 7 strands in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

Pattern: See chart.

Knitting tips-1 (for yoke shaping):
Dec 1 st as follows after the marker: K 2 tog.
Dec 1 st as follows before the marker: Slip 1 st as if to knit, K 1, psso.

Knitting tips-2 (for sleeve cap shaping): Dec 1 st from sleeve cap sts on st holder as follows:
From right side:
At the beginning of the row: put 1 st from st holder back on the needle and K 2 tog (the sleeve cap st and the first st on the needle from front or back).
At the end of the row: Slip the last st on the row as if to knit, K 1 st from st holder, and psso.
From wrong side:
At the beginning of the row: slip the 1st st from needle, then twist and return to left needle, twist and put 1 st from st holder onto left needle, then P 2 tog.
At the end of the row: P 2 tog.

Knitting tip: Because you are working with so many strands of yarn together, take extra care to not drop any of them while putting them onto or taking them off of st holders.

Measuring-tips: On account of the pattern and weight of the garment, make all measurements when the piece is held up, otherwise it will be too long when worn.
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FRONT
Work back and forth on circular needle.
Loosely cast on 21-23-25-28-30 sts with 1 strand of each color (= 7 strands). Knit 2 rows garter st (row 1 = right side), then knit Pattern 1 one time in height - AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 7 cm and 14 cm inc 1 st each side = 25-27-29-32-34 sts.
After Pattern 1 the piece measures approx. 22 cm. Change to stockinette st.
When the piece measures 39-40-41-42-43 cm bind off 2 sts at each side for armhole = 21-23-25-28-30 sts remain. Lay piece aside and knit Back.

BACK
Cast on and knit the same as the front. Lay piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE
Loosely cast on 14-14-14-16-16 sts with 1 strand of each color (= 7 strands). Knit 2 rows garter st (row 1 = right side), then knit Pattern 2 one time, then change to stockinette st.
When the piece measures 24 cm inc 1 st at each side every 6 cm a total of 4 times = 22-22-22-24-24 sts. When the piece measures 44 cm – read Measuring-tips – cast off 2 sts at each side = 18-18-18-20-20 sts remain. Lay piece aside and knit second sleeve.

YOKE
Put the sleeves in on the same circular needles as Body where you bound off for armhole = 78-82-86-96-100 sts. Put a marker in each transition between front, back and sleeves. Knit 1 round stockinette st, decreasing 1 st at each side of each sleeve in all sizes and 1 st at each side of Body in sizes XL and XXL only – see knitting tips-1.
Knit 1 round stockinette st over all sts. On the next round dec 1 st at each side of each sleeve 1 time = 70-74-78-84-88 sts.
Knit the next round as follows: * K 1, 2 yo on needle *, repeat from * - *. On the next round let yo loops drop and dec 1 st at each side of each sleeve again – see knitting tips-1 = 66-70-74-80-84 sts.
Knit stockinette st over all sts until the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58 cm at center front. Now put the 12-12-12-14-14 remaining sts of each sleeve on st holders and the center front 9-9-9-10-10 sts on another st holder for the neck. Knit the front and back separately.
Read the entire next section before knitting:

FRONT
Read all section before continuing.
Neckband: Dec 1 st at each neck edge every other row 2 times.
Sleeve cap: At the same time dec 1 st from sleeve sts – see knitting tips-2 – at front side of sleeve cap every row 6-6-6-7-7 times – when you make the last dec, also bind off the remaining 4-5-6-6-7 shoulder sts. You will still have 6-6-6-7-7 sleeve cap sts on the st holder.
When all front sts are bound off the piece measures approx. 58-60-62-64-66 cm.

BACK = 21-23-25-26-28 sts. Bind off the remaining 6-6-6-7-7 sts on sleeve cap as on front.
When the piece measures 56-58-60-62-64 cm bind off the center 13-13-13-14-14 sts for the neck.
Bind off shoulder sts as on front.

ASSEMBLY
Sew sleeve and side seams. Be sure the seams are not too tight. Sew opening under the sleeve. Sew right shoulder.
Neckband: Pick up approx. 30-35 sts around the neck on circular needles with 1 strand of each color (= 7 strands). Knit 1 row from wrong side, and then bind off. Sew left shoulder and up along neckband.

Diagram

symbols = from right side: K 1, yo
symbols = from wrong side: knit, and let yo from previous row drop
symbols = from right side: knit
symbols = from wrong side: knit
symbols = from right side: K 1, 2 yo
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (16)

country flag Ingepinge wrote:

Hallo, ich war sofort verliebt in dieser Pullover. Da ich Belgierin bin und also mit Nadel unterm Arm stricke... Frage: Geht das auch auf gerade Nadeln? Strickanleitung dazu? Wäre suuuper. Danke

16.02.2022 - 19:43

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Ingepinge, diese Lektion kann sicher Ihnen damit helfen, die Anleitung anzupassen - manchmal ist es aber einfacher mit Rundnadeln zu stricken, vielleicht können unsere Videos damit helfen? Viel Spaß beim stricken!

17.02.2022 - 10:44

country flag Annie wrote:

Bonjour, Je veux réaliser ce modèle avec une aiguille circulaire pour éviter de faire des coutures en utilisant la méthode "bottom up sweater". Auriez-vous des conseils concernant les augmentations (devant/dos /manches)? Merci à l'avance pour vos conseils.

08.10.2020 - 19:53

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Annie, tout comme on doit lire les diagrammes différemment quand on tricote en rangs au lieu d'en rond (cf cette leçon), il vous faudra adapter la lecture des diagrammes à un tricot circulaire - pour les reprendre en rangs après les emmanchures. La légende des diagrammes a été modifiée légèrement, quelques infos manquaient; Bon tricot!

09.10.2020 - 07:48

country flag Heike Sabine Zeiß wrote:

Hallo, ich verstehe leider das Absetzen nicht: was ist gemeint mit"1 M vom Faden zurück auf die Nadel legen? Die sind doch alle auf der Nadel?! Bin bei dem ersten Absetzen des Vorderteils, 42 cm.

18.07.2019 - 07:23

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Zeiß, meinen Sie diesen Satz Von der Hinreihe: Am Anfang der Ndl: 1 M vom Faden zurück auf der Ndl legen und diese M und die nächste M re zusammenstricken. dies gilt nur für die Abnahmen für den Armkugel, dh es wird beim Vorderteil nicht bearbeitet. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

18.07.2019 - 10:47

country flag Angie wrote:

Hi would I be able to knit this pattern on straight needles please

19.04.2019 - 21:48

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Angie, the piece is knitted back and forth until the yoke , and you van knit it on straight needles until this point. Th eyoke is originally knitted on the round, but if you really want to, you can finish it back and forth. Just put together the pieces so, that you turn teh rows at the seam between the back and the left sleeve. Add one stitch to the back piece and to the sleeve to use later as a seam. Later sew the piece up here. Happy Knitting.

20.04.2019 - 00:05

country flag Fabi wrote:

Buon pomeriggio, cosa vuol dire "- ALLO STESSO TEMPO, quando il lavoro misura 7 cm e 14 cm" cioè non capisco quando bisogna aumentare le maglie? quando il lavoro misura cm 7 oppure quando misura cm. 14?

07.04.2019 - 14:38

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Fabi, deve aumentare sia a 7 che a 14 cm.. Per un totale di 4 aumenti. Buon lavoro!

07.04.2019 - 14:53

country flag Anna Petrella wrote:

Buongiorno, vorrei fare questo modello con gli stessi colori ma non trovo gli stessi colori con il filato safran e in alternativa del cotton viscose quale filato posso usare e con quali colori. Grazie mille. Anna

27.03.2019 - 18:12

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Anna. Le suggeriamo di rivolgersi al suo rivenditore Drops di fiducia: potrà consigliarla al meglio sia nella scelta del filato che del colore. Buon lavoro!

27.03.2019 - 19:04

country flag Antje wrote:

Sorry , ich verstehe die Anleitung ab : Jetzt die restlichen 12-12-12-14-14 M auf jeder Ärmel auf 1 Faden legen und die mittleren 9-9-9-10-10 M in der Mitte vorne auf einen anderen Faden für den Hals legen. Das Vorder- und Rückenteil für sich fertig stricken. Was bedeutet auf einen faden legen ? Wie wird weiter gestrickt ? Werden die mittleren Maschen abgekettet ? Freue mich auf Hilfe , glaube es liegt an der Übersetztung ? Danke

20.01.2019 - 18:12

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Antje, ja die Maschen der beiden Ärmel (sowie die für den Rückenteil) legen Sie still und jetzt stricken Sie das Vorderteil hin und zurück, und gleichzeitig nehmen Sie die Maschen der Ärmel ab wie unter "Tip für das Abketten-2" erklärt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

21.01.2019 - 11:34

country flag Marica wrote:

C’è possible d’avoir la traduction en italien? Merci Marica

23.07.2018 - 16:39

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marica. Le modèle va être traduit en italien dès que possible. Bon tricot!

23.07.2018 - 17:03

Theresa wrote:

What is Pattern 1 and Pattern 2? Where are the instructions for them?

18.07.2018 - 15:02

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Theresa, sure there are, Pattern 1 and Pattern 2 are diagram M.1 and M.2 - start reading the diagram from the bottom corner on the right side from RS towards the left (and left towards right from WS), you'll find the key to diagram just above measurement chart/diagram. Happy knitting!

18.07.2018 - 15:22

Debbie Bland wrote:

Hi, sorry me again! I'm knitting the last back piece, do I include the 23 centre stitches in my rows with the shoulders or do I leave them on the needle and only knit the 5 stitches as the front ? Also do I sew the seams with all seven strands or can I use less? Wish it was happy knitting!! Kind regards

19.01.2016 - 09:19

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Bland, on back piece, you bind the remaining sts on sleeve as you did for front piece, while bind off the mid 13 sts for neck (finish then each shoulder separately). Sewing with all threads may help that seams are not too tight. Happy knitting!

19.01.2016 - 10:17