DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.10£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Pleasing in Pleats

DROPS jacket with pleats worked from side to side in garter st in ”Karisma ”. Size S - XXXL. Yarn alternative ”Merino Extrafine”.

DROPS 110-1
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS Karisma
650-700-800-850-950-1050 g colour no 53, charcoal grey
200-250-250-300-300-350 g colour no 16, dark grey

DROPS pointed needles size 5 mm – or size needed to get 16 sts x 34 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS Mother of pearl button with hole, nr 540: 2 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.10£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tip: Garter st becomes very elastic. The garment will therefore be slightly longer and wider than measurements in measurement chart.
Pleats: Work pleats in dark grey. 1 pleat with shortened rows:
work 72 sts, turn piece and work return row,
work 60 sts, turn piece and work return row,
work 52 sts, turn piece and work return row,
work 44 sts, turn piece and work return row,
work 36 sts, turn piece and work return row,
work 28 sts, turn piece and work return row,
work 20 sts, turn piece and work return row,
work 12 sts, turn piece and work return row,
work all sts on row, turn piece and work return row,
work all sts on row, turn piece and work return row,
work all sts on row, turn piece and work return row,
work all sts on row, turn piece and work return row,
work 12 sts, turn piece and work return row,
work 20 sts, turn piece and work return row,
work 28 sts, turn piece and work return row,
work 36 sts, turn piece and work return row,
work 44 sts, turn piece and work return row,
work 52 sts, turn piece and work return row,
work 60 sts, turn piece and work return row,
work 72 sts, turn piece and work return row.
Measurement tip: Measure from cast on row and measure where pleat is narrowest. Buttonhole: At the same time on the 3rd row worked on all sts cast off for 2 buttonholes as follows: Cast off st 73 and 74 from Marking Thread (MT) (i.e. the 2 sts after the turn) and cast off st 86 and 87 after MT (= 11 sts between buttonholes). On next row cast on 2 new sts over the cast of sts.

Back piece: Worked back and forth on needle. The whole piece is worked in garter st, i.e. K all rows. Beg at side. See Knitting tip!
Loosely cast on 94-96-98-99-101-102 sts on needle size 5 mm with charcoal grey. Work 5-7-7-13-15-21 rows garter st (row 1 = RS). Remember the knitting tension! At the end of next row (from WS) cast on 3 sts for armhole and now cast on 3 sts at the end of every 4th row from WS a total of 0-1-2-3-4-5 times. At the end of next row from WS cast on 26-24-23-22-20-19 sts 1 time = 123-126-130-133-136-139 sts. Seen from the RS, the sts on the right side of piece = towards neckline and sts on the left side of piece = towards bottom edge. Continue in garter st on all sts until piece measures 7-9-11-14-16-19 cm from casting on row (adjust so that next row is from RS). Change to dark grey. K 1 row from RS and now work 1 pleat – see above. When pleat is completed, K 1 row from WS on all sts.
Change to charcoal grey and continue back and forth on all sts until piece measures 17-19-21-24-26-29 cm – see Measurement tip!
Now cast off 3 sts at the beg of row from RS for neck = 120-123-127-130-133-136 sts.
Continue until piece measures 25-27-29-32-36-39 cm and now inc 3 sts at the end of row from WS = 123-126-130-133-136-139 sts. Continue back and forth on all sts until piece measures 32-34-36-39-43-46 cm (adjust so that next row is from RS).
Change to dark grey. K 1 row from RS and then work 1 pleat. When pleat is completed K 1 row on all sts from WS and change to charcoal grey. Continue until piece measures 40-42-45-48-52-55 cm and now cast off 26-24-23-22-20-19 sts at the beg of row from RS for armhole = 97-102-107-111-116-120 sts.
On next row from RS cast off 3 sts at the beg of row and now cast off 3 sts at the beg of row on every 4th row from RS a total of 0-1-2-3-4-5 times = 94-96-98-99-101-102 sts. Work 5-7-7-13-15-21 rows back and forth on all sts. Piece now measures approx 42-46-50-56-62-68 cm. Cast off loosely.

Left front piece: Cast on and work piece from the side towards mid front. Loosely cast on 94-96-98-99-101-102 sts on needle size 5 mm with charcoal grey. Work garter st back and forth on needle and cast on new sts for armhole as described for back piece = 123-126-130-133-136-139 sts.
When piece measures 7-9-11-14-16-19 cm (adjust so that next row is from RS) change to dark grey. K 1 row from RS and now work 1 pleat – see above. When pleat is completed K 1 row on all sts from WS and now change to charcoal grey. Continue back and forth on needle on all sts until piece measures 17-19-21-24-26-29 cm – see Measuring tip!
Insert 1 Marking Thread (MT) at the beg of row (as seen from RS) and continue back and forth on all sts, at the same time inc 8-8-8-8-10-10 sts at the end of next row from WS = 131-134-138-141-146-149 sts. Now inc 1 st at the end of every row from WS a total of 35-35-35-35-37-37 times. At the same time after 7-7-7-7-9-9 inc change to dark grey on the next row from RS. K 1 row and K 1 row from WS. Remember to continue inc 1 st at the end of row! Now work 1 pleat (Note! no of sts in Pleat is from MT, the inc sts are additional). When pleat is completed K 1 row from RS and K 1 row from WS (also inc on this row). There are now 160-163-167-170-177-180 sts on row. Now work front band/collar (at the same time continue to inc 1 st at the end of every row from WS) as follows:
* work 72 sts (from MT, the inc sts are additional), turn piece and work return row,
work all sts on row, turn piece and work return row *.
Repeat from *-* a total of 3 times. All inc are now complete = 166-169-173-176-183-186 sts on row. Cast of loosely.

Right front piece: Cast on and work piece from mid front towards the side. Loosely cast on 166-169-173-176-183-186 sts on needle size 5 mm with dark grey. Insert 1 MT 43-43-43-43-47-47 sts in from beg of row (from RS). K 1 row from RS, at the same time beg dec 1 st at the beg of every row (from RS) a total of 35-35-35-35-37-37 times. K 1 row from WS and continue as follows:
Remember to continue to dec 1 st at the beg of every row! * work 72 sts (from MT, inc sts before MT are additional), turn piece and work return row, work all sts on row, turn piece and work return row *. Repeat from *-* a total of 3 times.
Remember to cast off for buttonholes! – see above.
There are now 159-162-166-169-176-179 sts on row. Work 1 pleat. When pleat is completed (= 139-142-146-149-156-159 sts on row), K 1 row from RS (also dec on this row), K 1 row from WS and change to charcoal grey. Work 14-14-14-14-18-18 rows back and forth on all sts. All dec are now complete = 131-134-138-141-146-149 sts on row. At the beg of next row (from RS) cast off 8-8-8-8-10-10 sts = 123-126-130-133-136-139 sts. Insert 1 MT in piece, and now measure piece from here. Continue back and forth on all sts until piece measures 7 cm from MT and change to dark grey (adjust so that next row is from RS). K 1 row from RS and now work 1 pleat (the pleat will be at the left side of piece as seen from the RS, i.e. same side as pleat on back piece).
When pleat is completed K 1 row on all sts (from WS) and now change to charcoal grey, Continue back and forth on all sts until piece measures 15-15-16-16-16-16 cm from MT and now cast off the first 26-24-23-22-20-19 sts on row (from RS) = 97-102-107-111-116-120 sts. Cast off 3 sts at the beg of next row from RS and now cast off 3 sts at the beg of every 4th row from RS a total of 0-1-2-3-4-5 times = 94-96-98-99-101-102 sts on row. Work 5-7-7-13-15-21 rows and cast off loosely.

Sleeve: Worked back and forth on needle. Loosely cast on 44-46-48-48-50-52 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 5 mm with charcoal grey. Work garter st back and forth on needle. When piece measures approx 6 cm dec 1 st each side and repeat the dec when piece measures 14 cm = 40-42-44-44-46-48 sts. Now complete sleeve in reverse stocking st. When piece measures 18 cm inc 1 st each side on every 5-4.5-3.5-2.5-2-2 cm a total of 6-7-9-10-12-12 times = 52-56-62-64-70-72 sts. When piece measures 48-48-48-46-45-43 cm (less on the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder) cast off 3 sts each side for armhole. Cast off to shape the sleeve cap each side at the beg of every row: 2 sts 3-3-4-3-4-2 times, 1 st 0-1-0-5-4-10 times, then 2 sts each side until piece measures 54-55-55-56-56-57 cm, now cast off 3 sts each side 1 time and cast off remaining sts. Sleeve measures approx 55-56-56-57-57-58 cm.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams (the pleats on front and back piece should meet at the top of shoulder). Set in sleeves. Sew sleeve and side seams inside 1 edge st. Sew collar tog mid back and sew to neckline. Sew on buttons.


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Diagram

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (164)

country flag Yvonne wrote:

Lt. Anleitung soll 1 R re auf rechts gesteickt werden. Was bedeutet das, wenn ich doch vorher krausrechts stricke? Dann habe ich doch immer eine linke reihe vorher.

10.05.2023 - 15:22

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Yvonne, mit 1 R. re. auf rechts ist es 1 Hinreihe rechts; und mit 1 R. re. auf links 1 Rückreihe rechts gemeint. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

10.05.2023 - 16:50

country flag Katja wrote:

Ich habe das Modell gestrickt. Ohne größere Probleme. Beim Tragen verwandelt sich allerdings die mittellange und weite Jacke immer mehr in einen langen und schmalen Mantel. Das wäre ja bei der kraussrechten Strickweise und doch beachtlichem Gewicht wegen Karisma zu erwarten. Schade, dass ich nicht daran gedacht hatte. Also denkt bitte daran, liebe Strickfans: so fest wie nur möglich stricken!

21.11.2022 - 20:28

country flag Ulrika Nielsen wrote:

Hej! På höger framstycke står det att man skall avmaska 1 maska 35 gånger från rätsidan. Jag citerar: "Sticka 1 varv räta på avigsidan. Sedan stickas det så här: Kom ihåg att fortsätta avmaska i början av de AVIGA varven!" Det borde ni väl ändra?

17.05.2022 - 13:36

country flag Leslie wrote:

I finally waded through this pattern which was a bit complicated at times, but I'm not getting the last part of the assembly - "sew collar tog mid back and sew to neckline". Specifically, the "dark gray" part (which come to a point on each side), which I really need a visual or something more specific. If someone has a back photo of their completed project, I think even that would help me. Thanks!

06.05.2022 - 15:41

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Leslie, the "dark grey" part on back piece belongs to the collar pieces worked on each front piece (on left front piece, you increase sts at the end of every WS row and on right front piece you decreased sts at the beg of RS row and on right front piece you ). You will find much more pictures of this jacket on Ravelry, maybe it can help you. Happy knitting!

06.05.2022 - 16:09

country flag DeeDee Ralph wrote:

I am more of a beginner knitter and I am not convinced that I can successfully do the buttonholes so I would like to eliminate them. I skipped over that part and believe that I have completed the first pleat. I still have 72 stitches and I assume that I cast off at this point. (also, how many pleats do I make?) I am also making mine in the same color so no contrast. Maybe I bit off more than I should have. It wouldn't be the first time! Thanks FOR YOUR HELP!

10.03.2022 - 23:26

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Ralph, repeat the short rows until you get the 159 to 179 sts (see size), then work one pleat; now work back and forth (remember to continue decreasing as before) = 131 to 149 sts, then cast off 8-10 sts; work flat for 7cm and work 1 pleast, and continue flat to 15-16 cm, etc. Can this help?

11.03.2022 - 09:55

country flag Vicki wrote:

Love the look of the design. According to the instructions two pleats are made for each front, and there is only one pleat in the photo of the garment. I am also unclear on the front band, relative to a second pleat, which I don’t see. Thanks for your help.

07.09.2020 - 22:38

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Vicky, only one of both pleat is worked with the 2nd colour, that's why you can see only one pleat on the photo, but pattern is right like this. Happy knitting!

08.09.2020 - 10:26

country flag Erna Böhre wrote:

Ik brei het Li voorpand en ben nu op het punt om de voorbies te breien. Ik begrijp de instructies niet waarbij je 72 steken vanaf de merkdraad moet breien de meerderingen erbij telt en het werk keert. Brei ik dit deel op de heengaande naald maar over een deel van de steken en teruggaand over alle steken?

19.01.2019 - 12:53

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Erna,

Als je op de goede kant van het werk aan het breien bent en je bent bij de markeerdraad, dan brei je op dat moment 72 steken en dan keer je het werk (dus je breit niet de hele naald naar beneden)

23.01.2019 - 10:37

country flag Margaretha Emretsson wrote:

Jag vill veta vilket garn jag kan byta till eftersom det aktuella garnet på mönstret inte fanns. Ni frågar hur många trådar men det vet jag inte.

18.01.2019 - 14:55

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Margaretha. Denne jakken er strikket i Karisma som fortsatt er en del av vårt sortiment, og selges hos nesten alle våre forhandlere. Om du gjerne vil bytte til et annet garn kan du bruke hvilken garn du vil fra garngruppe B, da disse har samme strikkefasthet. For en oversikt over hvilke garn det er kan du trykke her. God fornøyelse.

23.01.2019 - 15:34

country flag Alexandra wrote:

Hej, sitter o läser igenom hur man ska gå tillväga men ser inte hur man gör luvan, står inte det med i beskrivningen?

12.12.2018 - 03:51

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Alexandra. Det er ingen hette på denne jakken, men sjalskragen går ut i en spiss bak på ryggen. Denne strikkes som en del av forstykket, ved at du øker masker på slutten av omgangene fra vrangsiden. Først økes det 8-8-8-8-10-10 masker, og videre økes det 1 maske totalt 35-35-35-35-37-37 ganger. Kragen syes sammen midt bak tilslutt, som forklart under montering. God fornøyelse

12.12.2018 - 07:52

Maureen Troake wrote:

Hello from South Africa. I love this pattern and want to make it for a friend. However, she wants a hood as well. Is it possible for someone to assist in adapting the collar design to become a hood?

14.06.2018 - 21:20

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Troake, we are unfortunately not able to adjust every pattern to every individual request, for any indiividual assistance for adjustements, you are welcome to contact the store where you bought the yarn (even per mail or telephone) or to request help from a knitting forum. Happy knitting!

15.06.2018 - 08:23