DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 105-3
Measurements:
Length: approx 85 cm
Width: approx 170 cm.

Materials: DROPS Alpaca, from Garnstudio
400 g colour no 1101, white

DROPS circular needle (80 cm) size 3 mm - or size needed to obtain 24 sts x 32 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Pattern: See diagram M.1 to M.5 and X.1 to X.4. The diagram is seen from the RS.

Garter st, back and forth on needle: K all rows

Increasing tip: Make all inc from RS. Inc 4 sts on every other row as follows:
Inc at beg of row: Work 3 garter sts, K1, 1 YO, K1. On return row from WS work these sts as follows: P3, 3 garter sts.
Inc as follows mid back: Beg 2 sts before marking thread (= MT), K1, 1 YO, K1 (= st with MT), 1 YO, K1. On return row from WS P these 5 sts.
Inc as follows at the end of row: beg 5 sts before the end of row: K1, 1 YO, K1, 3 garter sts. On return row from WS work these sts as follows: 3 garter sts, P3.

Leaf pattern:
Row 1(= WS): *K5, P5*, repeat from *-* and finish with K5
Row 2: (= RS): P2, * 1YO, K1, 1 YO, P2, K5, P2*, repeat from *-* until 3 sts left on row, work these as follows: 1 YO, K1, 1 YO, P2.
Row 3-5-8-9-11-13-16 and 17: Work K over K and P over P. P all YO.
Row 4: P2, *K1, 1 YO, K1, 1 YO, K1, P2, slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso, K1, K2 tog, P2*, repeat from *-* until 5 sts left on row, work these as follows: K1, 1 YO, K1, 1 YO, K1, P2
Row 6: P2, *K2, 1 YO, K1, 1 YO, K2, P2, slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso, P2*, repeat from *-* until 7 sts left on row, work these as follows: K2, 1 YO, K1, 1 YO, K2, P2
Row 7: K2, *P7, K5*, repeat from *-* until 9 sts left on row, work these as follows: P7, K2.
Row 10: P2, 1 YO, K1, 1 YO, P2, slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso, K3, K2 tog, P2, *1 YO, K1, 1YO, P2, slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso, K3, K2 tog, P2*, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 YO, K1, 1 YO, P2.
Row 12: P2, K1, 1 YO, K1, 1 YO, K1, P2, slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso, K1, K2 tog, P2, *K1, 1 YO, K1, 1YO, K1, P2, slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso, K1, K2 tog, P2*, repeat from *-* and finish with K1, 1 YO, K1, 1 YO, K1, P2.
Row 14: P2, K2, 1 YO, K1, 1 YO, K2, P2, slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso, P2, *K2, 1 YO, K1, 1YO, K2, P2, slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso, P2*, repeat from *-* and finish with K2, 1YO, K1, 1 YO, K2, P2.
Row 15: K5, *P7, K5*, repeat from *-*
Row 18: P5, *slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso, K3, K2 tog, P5*, repeat from *-*.
Row 19: Work K over K and P over P. At the same time inc 2 sts between each leaf, i.e. in the 5 K sts as follows (inc by picking up st from previous row): K1, inc 1 st, K3, inc 1 st, K1.
Row 20: Work sts on each leaf as follows: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso, K1, K2 tog. P all other sts.
Row 21: P the 3 sts on each leaf, K remaining sts, at the same time inc as follows between each leaf: K1, inc 1 st, K5, Inc 1 st, K1.
Row 22: Work 3 sts on leaf as follows: slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso, P all other sts.

Shawl: Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 3 sts on needle size 3 mm. Insert a Marking Thread (MT) in the second st (marks the middle of shawl). Work first row (= RS) as follows: K1, 1 YO, K1, 1 YO, K1 = 5 sts (work YO into back of loop on return row). Continue in garter st, at the same time inc 4 sts on every other row as follows: Work 2 sts in the last but one st each side and make 1 YO on both sides of st with MT. Continue like this until there are 29 sts on row. Now continue as follows:
X.1, M.1A (= 4 sts), M.1C (= 5 sts), X.2, 1 stocking st (= st with MT), X.3, M.1A (= 4 sts), M.1C (= 5 sts), X.4. After 1 vertical repeat of pattern there are 45 sts on row. Continue as follows: X.1, M.1A, M.1B (= 8 sts) repeated until 6 sts (this number of sts varies according to row number in X.2) remain before st with MT, work these sts as follows: M.1C, X,2, then work 1 stocking st (= st with MT), X.3, M.1A, M1.B repeated until 9 sts (this number of sts varies according to row number in X.4) remain, work these sts as follows: M.1C, X.4.
Continue like this until you have worked 18 vertical repeats of M.1 = 317 sts on row. K 1 row from RS and P 1 row from WS. At the same time inc each side and mid back on every other row – see Increasing tip – until finished measurements.
Continue in M.2. After 1 vertical repeat of M.2 there are 333 sts on row. K 1 row from RS, at the same time inc 8 sts evenly (in addition to inc at sides and mid back). P 1 row from WS, P 1 row from RS and K 1 row from WS. There are now 349 sts on row. Work next row as follows: 5 sts at side with inc as before, *K2 tog, 1 YO*, repeat from *-* until 3 sts before mid back, work these with inc as before, 1 YO, repeat from *-* until 7 sts remain, work these K2 tog and 5 sts with inc as before. K 1 row from WS, at the same time inc 2 sts evenly (in addition to inc at sides and mid back) = 355 sts on row. Continue as follows: 5 sts at side with inc as before, M.3 (= 9 sts) repeated on the next 171 sts, 3 sts mid back with inc as before, M.3 on the next 171 sts and 5 sts at side with inc as before. NB! Work inc sts at side and mid back in stocking st until M.3 is completed. After 1 vertical repeat of M.3 there are 379 sts on row. K 1 row from WS, at the same time inc 2 sts evenly (in addition to inc at sides and mid back) = 381 sts. Continue as follows: 5 sts at side with inc as before, * K2 tog, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* until 3 sts mid back, work these with inc as before, 1 YO, repeat from *-* until 7 sts remains, work these: K2 tog and 5 sts with inc as before. K 1 row from WS, P 1 row from RS at the same time inc 14 sts evenly (in addition to inc at sides and mid back) = 403 sts on row. Continue as follows: 5 sts at side with inc as before, Leaf pattern – see above – on the next 195 sts, 3 sts mid back with inc as before, Leaf pattern on the next 195 sts and 5 sts at side with inc as before. Note! Work inc sts at side and mid back in reverse stocking st until row 10 in Leaf pattern.
Now continue as follows: 5 sts at side with inc as before, Leaf pattern from row 10 – see above – on the next 198 sts, 3 sts mid back with inc as before, Leaf pattern on the next 198 sts and 5 sts at side with inc as before. NB! Work inc sts at side and mid back in reverse stocking st. After Leaf pattern is complete (= 22 rows) there are 455 sts on row. K 1 row from WS, at the same time dec 2 sts evenly = 453. P 1 row from RS and K 1 row from WS. There are now 457 sts on row.
Continue as follows: 5 sts at side with inc as before, * K2 tog, 1 YO, repeat from *-* until 3 sts mid back, work these with inc as before, 1 YO, repeat from *-* until 7 sts remains, work these: K2 tog and 5 sts with inc as before. K 1 row from WS, at the same time inc 2 sts evenly (in addition to inc at sides and mid back)= 463 sts on row.
Continue as follows: 5 sts at side with inc as before, M.3 (= 9 sts) repeated on the next 225 sts, 3 sts mid back with inc as before, M.3 on the next 225 sts and 5 sts at side with inc as before. NB! Work inc sts at side and mid back in stocking st until M.3 is completed. After 1 vertical repeat of M.3 there are 487 sts on row. K 1 row from WS, at the same time inc 2 sts evenly (in addition to inc at sides and mid back) = 489 sts.
Continue as follows: 5 sts at side with inc as before, * K2 tog, 1 YO, repeat from *-* until 3 sts mid back, work these with inc as before, 1 YO, repeat from *-* until 7 sts remains, work these: K2 tog and 5 sts with inc as before. K 1 row from WS, K 1 row from RS, P 1 row from WS. There are now 497 sts on row.
Now continue in M.2 (inc at sides and mid back as before). After 1 vertical repeat of M.2 there are 509 sts on row. K 1 row from RS, at the same time inc 10 sts evenly (in addition to inc at sides and mid back) = 523 sts on row. P 1 row from WS.
Continue as follows: 5 sts at side with inc as before, M.4 (= 17 sts) repeated on the next 255 sts, 3 sts mid back with inc as before, M.4 on the next 255 sts and 5 sts at side with inc as before. NB! Work inc sts at side and mid back in stocking st until M.4 is completed. After 1 vertical repeat of M.4 there are 599 sts on row. P 1 row from WS, K 1 row from RS and P 1 row from WS. There are now 603 sts on row.
Continue as follows: 5 sts at side with inc as before, K3, M.5 on the next 289 sts, K3, 3 sts mid back with inc as before, K3, M.5 on the next 289 sts K3 and 5 sts at side with inc as before. NB! Work inc sts at side and mid back in stocking st until M.5 is completed. After 1 vertical repeat of M.5 there are 771 sts on row. K 1 row from WS, K 1 row from RS and cast off loosely.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 20.04.2008
\\\"After Leaf pattern is complete (= 22 rows) there are 455 sts on row. K 1 row from WS, at the same time dec 2 sts evenly = 453. P 1 row from RS and K 1 row from RS. There are now 457 sts on row.\\\"

=> P 1 row from RS and K1 row from WS etc...
Updated online: 23.04.2008
...= 403 sts on row.
Continue as follows:
5 sts at side with inc as before, sts between the 5 side sts and leaf pattern works in reversed stockinette st, Leaf pattern – see above – on the next 195 sts, 3 sts mid back with inc as before, sts between the 3 sts in the middle and the leaf pattern works in reversed stockinette st, Leaf pattern on the next 195 sts and 5 sts at side with inc as before, sts between the 5 side sts and leaf pattern works in reversed stockinette st. Note! Work inc sts at side and mid back in reverse stockinette st until row 10 in Leaf pattern.
Now continue as follows: 5 sts at side with inc as before, sts between the 5 side sts and leaf pattern works in reversed stockinette st, Leaf pattern from row 10 – see above – on the next 198 sts, 3 sts mid back with inc as before, sts between the 3 sts in the middle and the leaf pattern works in reversed stockinette st, Leaf pattern on the next 198 sts and 5 sts at side with inc as before, sts between the 5 side sts and leaf pattern works in reversed stockinette st.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = K2 tog
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso
symbols = P 2 tog
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (231)

country flag Marlène wrote:

Bonjour je trouve ce châle super beau mais je voudrais savoir si on a des mailles lisières au début et à la fin de nos rangs si oui combien il y en a merci pour votre réponse car si je lis bien le modèle ce n’est pas noté

23.02.2024 - 19:28

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marlène, les mailles lisières sont comprises dans le nombre de mailles indiqué, autrement dit, elles se tricotent à 'l'endroit (point mousse) jusqu'à ce qu'on ait 29 mailles, puis elles figurent dans les diagrammes X1 et X4 autrement dit, quand on commence les diagrammes, on a 3 mailles point mousse (les 3 premières de X1 et les 3 dernières de X4) de chaque côté. Bon tricot!

26.02.2024 - 07:21

country flag Dorthe Panum Petersen wrote:

Der er ikke noget mønster i opskriften, lige meget hvilken enhed jeg går ind fra.

08.02.2024 - 05:48

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Dorthe. Prøv igjen. Alt skal ligge der. Evnt. sjekk internetttilkoblingen din. mvh DROPS Design

09.02.2024 - 08:00

country flag Lenka wrote:

Dobrý den,\r\nupletla jsem si tento šátek. Pouze místo středového oka jsem vytvořila středový pruh.\r\nPopis listového vzoru opravdu není srozumitelný. Vytvořila jsem tedy grafický popis a také (pro mě) mnohem přehlednější popis instrukcí. Obrázek najdete zde ravel.me/RheaS/13as, případně mohu poslat přímo, abyste ho případně přidali přímo k návodu.\r\nLenka

15.10.2023 - 18:23

country flag Irene Kangasjärvi wrote:

Työssä 403 s. Aloitan lehtikuvion ok rivillä yksi on kuviossa 10 s rivillä kaksi on kuviossa 12 s siis silmukoita tulee hurjasti lisää yhdellä kerroksella Kuitenkin, kun lehtikuvio on valmis, pitäisi puikolla olla vain 455 s.

04.08.2023 - 16:17

DROPS Design answered:

Hei, lehtikuvioiden kohdalla tehdään myöhemmin kavennuksia. Eli lopuksi työssä on 455 silmukkaa.

24.08.2023 - 16:25

country flag Sylviane Pradeau wrote:

Après les 381m galère ! Conserve t-on les 3m pt mousse ? Que comprennent les 5m bord? Qd fait on le jeté d'augm ? Les 3m du milieu, tjs en jersey? Cnt reprend t-on après ? M entre les 5m et motif feuilles ? Quelles M et cb ? Après cb de M débute le motif feuille ? Possibilité d'un diagramme pour celui-ci ? Ce serait plus parlant

24.07.2023 - 08:56

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Pradeau, vous répétez (2 m ens à l'end, 1 jeté) après les 5 m et avant les 3 m centrales / après les 3 m centrales jusqu'aux 5 m (soit 92 fois au total = 184m). Puis vous allez augmenter = 403 m (soit 5 m, 195 m à tricoter au point de feuilles, 3 m centrales, 195 m à tricoter au point de feuilles et 5 m). En même temps, augmentez comme avant, mais tricotez les augmentations en jersey envers jusqu'au rang 10. Le nombre de mailles (195) tricotées au point de feuilles va varier en raison du motif, placez un marqueur au début et à la fin de ces mailles dès le 1er rang vous aidera à mieux les repérer. Bon tricot!

27.07.2023 - 12:14

country flag Sylviane Pradeau wrote:

Merci. Je parlais des augmentations de début et fin de rang ainsi que du milieu dos. Il est bien spécifié d'"en même temps procéder à ces augmentations en se référant aux explications, peu explicites du reste car:un jeté, une maille endroit. 2augmentatipns de chaque côté du dos du coup ??

28.06.2023 - 12:35

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Pradeau, ces 4 augmentations figurent dans les diagrammes X1 (après les 3 m point mousse), X2 (avant la maille centrale), X3 (après la maille centrale) et X4 (avant les 3 m point mousse), autrement dit, suivez simplement les diagrammes. Bon tricot!

28.06.2023 - 16:22

country flag Sylviane Pradeau wrote:

Merci pour la réponse d'hier, mais je nage toujours autant. Il me faudrait le déroulement précis des qq rangs a à partir des 45m,de tt le rang avec les augmentations . Car je ne comprends toujours pas gérer les augmentations, cnt ils s'insèrent ds les diagrammes

28.06.2023 - 11:27

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Pradeau, les augmentations figurent dans les diagrammes, vous n'aurez pas à les gérer autrement qu'en suivant ces diagrammes: X1, M1A, M1B (=8m) à répéter jusqu'à ce qu'il reste les mailles de X2 + celles de M.1C et tricoter ensuite M1C, X2, puis 1 m jersey end (=m avec le marqueur), X3, M1A, M1B à répéter jusqu'à ce qu'il reste les mailles de M.1C et de X4. et terminez le rang par M.1C et X4 - en fonction des rangs, vous aurez plus ou moins de mailles, mais en suivant les diagrammes, vous saurez le nombre de mailles à tricoter; le nombre de répétitions de M.1B entre A et C sera le même jusqu'à la fin des X. Bon tricot!

28.06.2023 - 12:13

country flag Sylviane wrote:

Je bloque après avoir obtenu 45m.A quoi se rapporte "à répéter"? M1B? Comment caler, compter, où commencer le motif avec les augmentations, le tout se faisant aux rangs endroit ?

27.06.2023 - 13:18

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sylviane, au 1er rang, vous allez répéter les 8 mailles de M.1B jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 6 mailles avant la maille avec le marqueur (= la maille centrale), et tricoter ensuite M.1C (= les 5 dernières mailles de M.1) puis X2 = 1 m end (+ 1 augmentation); au 3ème rang (au rang suivant sur l'endroit, vous répétez M.1B jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 7 m (= les 5 m de M.1C + les 2 m de XZ) et ainsi de suite, autrement dit au 5ème rang, vous répétez M.1B jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 8 mailles (= les 5 mailles de M.1C + les 3 mailles de X2) etc. Bon tricot!

27.06.2023 - 13:47

country flag France Lechasseur wrote:

Bonjour, j’ai commencé le motif de feuille,j’ai fait le premier rang de 5mailles endroit. Et 5 mailles env. et j’ai fait la moitié du deuxième rang et j’arrive avec plus de mailles que 3, j’arrive à 4 mailles et jai fait le jeté, tricoter la maille du milieu et le jeté et je ne sais plus comment continuer , pouvez-vous m’aider svp. France Lechasseur

15.01.2023 - 19:28

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Lechasseur, essayez de bien mettre des marqueurs entre chaque motif à répéter de *-*, cela pourra vous aider à bien vérifier votre nombre de mailles (= 10 m entre *-* soit 12 m au 2ème rang). Bon tricot!

16.01.2023 - 09:39

country flag France Lechasseur wrote:

Merci beaucoup pour la réponse que vous m’avez donné si rapidement et voila que mon graphique M3 est parfait . Un gros gros MERCI BEAUCOUP . France Lechasseur.

11.01.2023 - 17:05