DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 1.90 £ /50g

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To the Sea

Knitted men's jumper with cables and high neck in DROPS Alaska, plus hat in DROPS Snow

DROPS 85-23
DROPS 85-23
PULLOVER:

Sizes: 12/14 years - S/M - L - XL - XXL

Materials: DROPS ALASKA from Garnstudio
750-900-1000-1100-1200 gr nr 02, natural

DROPS 4 mm and 5 mm circular and double-pointed needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..

Gauge: 17 sts x 22 rows on larger needles in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm.

Rib: *K 3, P 3*, repeat from *-*.

Pattern: See the chart below. The pattern is seen from the right side.

Decreasing tips (for raglan):
Dec as follows on right side:
Start 4 sts before the marker: Sl 1 as if to knit, K 1, psso, K 4 (the marker is in the middle of these 4 sts), K 2 tog.
Dec as follows on wrong side:
Start 4 sts before the marker, P 2 tog, P 4, P 2 tog, twisting sts (if this is too difficult, sl 2, return to left needle 1 by 1, twisting each, then P 2 tog).

BODY
Cast on 155-159-179-183-203 sts on smaller circular needles; join and knit rib as follows: K 3-5-3-5-3 (put a marker in the center st = side), *P 3, K 3*, repeat *-* over the following 24-24-30-30-36 sts, Pattern 1 (= 26 sts), *K 3, P 3*, repeat *-* over the following 24-24-30-30-36 sts, K 3-5-3-5-3 (put a marker in the center st = side), *P 3, K 3*, repeat *-* over the following 72-72-84-84-96 sts and finish with P 3.
On the last row of Pattern 1 dec 2 sts on back and at the same time inc 4 sts on the front as shown in chart = 157-161-181-185-205 sts.
When Pattern 1 is complete (the piece measures approx. 4 cm) change to larger circular needles and continue as follows: K 3-5-3-5-3, Pattern 2 over the following 24-24-30-30-36 sts, Pattern 3 (= 30 sts), Pattern 2 over the following 24-24-30-30-36 sts – reverse the pattern so that it will be the same on both sides of Pattern 3, K 3-5-3-5-3 and Pattern 2 over the remaining 73-73-85-85-97 sts.
When the piece measures 12 cm inc 1 st at each side of sts with markers at each side every 5-4-6-4-4 cm a total of 4-6-4-6-6 times – knit the increased sts in Pattern 2 as you go along = 173-185-197-209-229 sts. When the piece measures 34-41-42-43-43 cm bind off 7 sts at each side for armhole (= the sts with the markers + 3 sts each side = 82-88-94-100-110 sts on front and 77-83-89-95-105 sts on back. Lay piece aside and knit the sleeves.

Sleeve: Cast on 42-42-42-48-48 sts on double-pointed needles 4 mm; join and place a marker at the join. Knit rib. When the piece measures 4 cm change to double-pointed needles 5 mm and continue working following Pattern 2 (the pattern will not come out even).
When the piece measures 9-12-14-14-14 cm inc 1 st on each side of seed st at marker every 3.5-2.5-2-2.5-2 cm a total of 11-14-17-15-20 times (knit the incd sts into the pattern as you go along) = 64-70-76-78-88 sts.
When the piece measures 50-51-53-53-54 cm bind off 7 sts at marker (the st with the marker + 3 sts each side of marker) = 57-63-69-71-81 sts. Lay piece aside and knit second sleeve.

Yoke: Put the sleeves in on the same circular needles as Body where you bound off for armhole = 273-297-321-337-377 sts Put a marker in each transition between Body and sleeves = 4 markers. Knit 2-3-0-0-0 rows before decreasing.
Read the entire next section before knitting:
Raglan shaping: Dec 1 st at each side of each marker (= 8 decs) – see Decreasing tips above. Dec every other row 18-21-23-24-24 times and every row 0-0-1-1-6 times.
Pattern: When the piece measures 50-59-61-63-65 cm – adjust to end after a cable – knit Pattern 4 over the center 30 sts (decreasing the 4 sts incd on the last row of Pattern 1 at lower edge of Body) – knit the remaining sts as before.
On the next row put the center 30-30-30-34-34 sts on a st holder for the neck and knit back and forth on needles. Continue to dec 1 st at each neck edge every other row 1-2-2-2-2 times. After all raglan and neck shaping is complete, 93-91-91-95-95 sts remain and the piece measures approx. 56-66-68-70-72 cm to shoulder. Neckband: Pick up and knit approx. 32-38 sts in front neck (incl. sts on st holder) on double-pointed needles and put all sts on same needles = approx. 125-133 sts. Join and P 1 row, then K 1 row, decreasing evenly distributed to 83-89-89-95-95 sts. Knit rib (K 3, P 3) – but at center front there should be a P 2, following pattern on front. When the collar measures 18-20-20-22-22 cm bind off all sts in rib. Fold neckband out to right side.
If you want a crew neck, knit as follows: knit rib until the collar measures approx. 10-11-12-12-13 cm, bind off in pattern. Fold the neckband to wrong side and stitch in place.

Assembly: Sew opening under the sleeve.

HAT:
Sizes: one-size

Materials: SNOW
100 gr nr 15, marine blue.

DROPS 9 mm double-pointed needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

Gauge: 10 sts x 14 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm.

Rib: *P 5, K 2*, repeat from *-*.

Hat: Cast on 56 sts; join and place a marker at the join. Knit 1 row stockinette st, then knit rib – see instructions above. When the piece measures 12 cm dec all P 5 to P 4 = 48 sts. When the piece measures 15 cm dec all P 4 to P 3 = 40 sts.
Dec in the same way 2 more times with 3 cm between each dec round so that there will be 1 P less for each dec round = 24 sts – the rib is now *K 2, P 1*. When the piece measures 22 cm knit the next row as follows: *K 2 tog, P 1*, repeat from *-* over all sts = 16 sts. Cut yarn and pull through the remaining sts, fasten neatly. Hat measures approx 23 cm high.

This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.

Updated online: 04.12.2013
New chart M.1

Diagram

	= no st (skip this square)
	= K
	= P
	= Inc 1 st by working 2 sts in this st
	= P2 tog
	= K2 tog
	= Slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso
	= slip 5 sts on cable needle behind piece, K5, K5 from cable needle
	= slip 5 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K5, K5 from cable needle

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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To the Sea

Emmanuelle, France

Comments / Questions (158)

Karen Berger wrote:

Trying to get a response, I dont understand main pattern! K 3-5-3-5-3, Pattern 2 ? What is this as M2 has P1, K5, P1, K5. Please see all my other questions posted as well. I am not spam I am a customer!

05.12.2024 - 14:34

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Karen, please see our answers below. The Pattern is worked as in its corresponding chart and is independent of the other rib, knit and purl stitches mentioned in the same row. Happy knitting!

07.12.2024 - 21:07

In the past I’ve posted a question and got a response this time I’ve posted a question four times from two different email addresses and I’m not getting any reply. It’s very frustrating and disappointing as I wanted to make a sweater as a gift for the holiday seasons. Hopefully someone will get back to me I keep checking my junk folder hoping I’ll see something but so far nothing

05.12.2024 - 12:07

Can you please respond and explain the body knitting instructions better they are very confusing after the main ribbing Thanks

03.12.2024 - 19:00

Dear Karen, please see our answers below. Happy knitting!

07.12.2024 - 21:06

I’ve sent 2 emails no reply :( please give better instructions for beginning and using m2 and 3 I don’t understand -

03.12.2024 - 18:59

07.12.2024 - 21:05

Not understanding pattern at all! K 3–5–3 – 5–3? Then knit what follow pattern M2. Then M3 and repeat M2 then What reverse M3 ?? Knit M2 again? If I do that, I will not have 73 stitches left the numbers or math does not add up for me K3,5 .. sequence =19( x2= 38) 11 M2- 26 (2 x )=52 M3 30 (2x) = 60 That’s 150 and I have 157 Where do you get knit the remaining 73 stitches using pattern 2

29.11.2024 - 23:48

Dear Karen, please see our first answer below. Pattern 2 and Pattern 3 are charts M.2 and M.3 respectively; you can find them at the bottom of the pattern. You will be working M.2 over the rib stitches in the previous row and M.3 over M.1, as shown in the chart (M.3 is the section right above the M.1 rows). So, since you work M.2 over rib stitches and M.3 over M.1 stitches you should have: Knit 3 (=side), M.2 over the following 24 sts, work M.3 over M.1, M.2 over 24 sts (but worked in reverse, so work it left to right), Knit 3 (= side), M.2 over the last 73 stitches. This is a total of 157 stitches. Happy knitting!

07.12.2024 - 21:04

I don’t understand Instructions Knit 3–5– 3 – 5–3 are you asking us to knit three, pearl five, knit three, pearl five, knit three?

29.11.2024 - 23:44

Dear Karen, each instruction corresponds to a different size. Knit 3 is for the smallest size, knit 5 for the second smallest (S/M), knit 3 for the next size. This helps adjust the rib pattern to the number of stitches cast on for each size. For example, for the smallest size, you work as follows: Knit 3 (put a marker in the center st = side), *Purl 3, Knit 3*, repeat *-* over the following 24 sts, work chart M.1 (= 26 sts), *Knit 3, Purl 3*, repeat *-* over the following 24 sts, Knit 3 (put a marker in the center st = side), *Purl 3, Knit 3*, repeat *-* over the following 72 sts and finish with Purl 3. Happy knitting!

07.12.2024 - 20:55

Verónica Ávila wrote:

Hola. Estoy tejiendo la talla S/M. Hice las 21 disminuciones para el ranglán, y me faltaron aún 4 vueltas para hacer la última torsada. Continué tejiendo sin hacer más disminuciones para el ranglán, hice lo solicitado en el centro, tras separar los 30 puntos, me quedaron 106 pt, si disminuyo 2v x 2 pt, me quedarían 101 y en el patrón dice 91. ¿Debí continuar disminuyendo para ranglán?

16.11.2024 - 04:38

Hola Verónica, después de las 21 disminuciones para el raglán deberías tener 129 puntos. Le quitas los 4 puntos disminuidos en M.4, separas los 30 puntos y deberían quedarte 95 puntos. Después disminuyes 4 puntos = 91 puntos. 21 x 8 = 168 puntos disminuidos. Tenías 297 puntos - los 168 puntos disminuidos = 129 puntos restantes. Así que, si tenías más puntos, entonces no habías terminado las disminuciones para el raglán.

17.11.2024 - 21:08

Gurli Aarup wrote:

Vedr ryg og forsstykke. Jeg synes ikke fordelingen af de 179 masker i starten er korrekt .

10.11.2024 - 16:56

Hei Gurli. Fint om du kan gi en nærmere beskrivelse på hva det er du mener ikke er korrekt med maskeantallet. I str. L legges det opp 179 masker og følger man beskrivelsen til hvordan 1. omgang skal strikkes stemmer det med maskeantallet. mvh DROPS Design

18.11.2024 - 09:16

Knitter wrote:

Hello! I'm knitting the Yoke part. When pattern says "When piece measures X cm..." do I only measure the body part? After raglan and neck shaping pattern says "piece measures X cm to shoulder". Do I measure both times from the shoulder or only after raglan and neck shaping?

18.10.2024 - 15:26

Dear Knitter, when starting the yoke, measure the sweater on the front from the cast on row. Later, when the full length of the sweater is given, it is XX cm to the highest point of the shoulder. Also, please refer to the measurements on the schematic drawing on the bottom of the pattern. Happy Knitting!

20.10.2024 - 10:50

Magda wrote:

Ik wil aan de hals beginnen,heb 34 steken op een draad gezet en verder nog 95 steken op de breinaald. Ik zet alle steken op 1 naald en heb er nu 133 zoals aangegeven. Er staat dat ik nu naar een totaal van 95steken moet minderen, is dat juist en hoe doe ik dat?

04.09.2024 - 23:35

Dag Magda,

Dit kun je doen door verdeeld over de naald steken samen te breien, dus je breit 38 keer 2 steken samen om op 95 steken uit te komen.

12.09.2024 - 20:54

To the Sea

Knitted men's jumper with cables and high neck in DROPS Alaska, plus hat in DROPS Snow

You might also like...

Pattern instructions

Diagram

How to read a size chart

How to read knitting diagrams

How to measure the knitting tension and how to calculate a pattern

How to change yarns or yarn amounts

How to choose yarn

Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

How to increase/decrease evenly!

How can I get help with a DROPS pattern?

How to cast on

How to knit stitches

How to work purl stitches

How to decrease stitches

How to cast off from the right side

How to cast off from the wrong side

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To the Sea

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 85-23

Comments / Questions (158)

To the Sea

Knitted men's jumper with cables and high neck in DROPS Alaska, plus hat in DROPS Snow

Diagram explanations

Do you need help with this pattern?

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	DROPS Alaska uni colour 100% Wool	1.90 £ /50g	Order
	DROPS Alaska mix 100% Wool	1.90 £ /50g	Order

	DROPS Alaska uni colour 100% Wool 1.90 £ /50g Order
	DROPS Alaska mix 100% Wool 1.90 £ /50g Order