DROPS Delight
DROPS Delight
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 160-30
DROPS design: Pattern no de-131
Yarn group A
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Measurements: approx. 75 cm measured mid back, and approx. 150 cm along the edge at the top.
Materials:
DROPS DELIGHT from Garnstudio
100 g colour no 08 green/beige
100 g colour no 11, lilac/green

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 27 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Delight
DROPS Delight
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

MID ST:
Work mid st in stocking st on all rows with stocking st in diagram, but on rows in diagram that are worked K from WS work mid st also like this.

STRIPES:
1 stripe = 2 rows. First row is from RS.
* Work 2 rows with lilac/green, work 2 rows with green/beige *, repeat from *-*.
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SHAWL:
Worked back and forth on circular needle to make room for all the sts. The shawl is worked from neckline mid back and down.
Work in STRIPES - see explanation above.
Cast on 7 sts on circular needle size 4 mm with lilac/green. Insert 1 marker in the 4th st (= mid st) and move it upwards when working. Work diagram A.1 as follows: Work 2 edge sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above, A.1 over 1 st, 1 st in stocking st, A.1 over 1 st and 2 edge sts in garter st = 11 sts. Continue with A.1 on each side of mid st (work mid st in stocking st in entire A.1), when diagram has been worked, 1 time vertically, there are 43 sts on row (i.e. 21 sts on each side of mid st). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION
Work according to diagram A.2-A.4 as follows: 2 edge sts in garter st, A.2 over 1 st, A.3 over 17 sts, A.4 over 1 st, K 1 (= MID ST - see explanation above), A.2 over 1 st, A.3 over 17 sts, A.4 over 1 st and 2 edge sts in garter st. When diagrams have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 111 sts on needle (i.e. there are 55 sts on each side of mid st) and there is now room for 1 more repetition of A.3 on each side of A.3 on each side of shawl. Continue to work according to A.2-A.4 until diagrams have been worked 8 times in total vertically. There are now 587 sts on needle (i.e. 293 sts on each side of mid st). Loosely cast off as follows: * Cast off 3 sts, 1 YO, cast off YO *, repeat from *-* the rest of row.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = K from WS
symbols = slip 1 st as if to
K, K 1, psso
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = 1 double YO between 2 sts, drop one YO
off on next row
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts, work YO twisted
on next row
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts, K YO on
next row
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (22)

country flag Ilaria wrote:

Come è possibile realizzare questo modello in dimensioni più piccole? Basta fermarsi alla grandezza desiderata o si interromperebbe lo schema?

06.11.2022 - 12:54

country flag Christine wrote:

Rosa Bonde har helt rätt som påpekade år 2016 att det är fel i diagrammet! Den fyllda cirkeln ska stickas rät på avigsidan. Annars får man inte några ränder på framsidan. I diagrammets symbolbeskrivningar har både den tomma cirkeln och fyllda cirkeln samma beskrivning vilket gör att det blir fel. Synd att ni inte rättat det.

27.10.2021 - 14:40

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Christine. Tack för info, det var fel i den svenska översättningen. Detta har nu rättats. Mvh DROPS Design

29.10.2021 - 13:56

country flag Marche Francine wrote:

Bonjour je suis en train de réaliser le modèle du châle et 1 fois avoir effectuer le premier diagramme je n’arrive pas à avoir 43 m comme vous l’indiquer j’en ai 41 et si je continue 1 rg supplémentaire ça dépassera les 43 m. Merci de bien vouloir m’aider s’il vous plaît. Cordialement

06.10.2020 - 16:28

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Marche, vous devez avoir 19 m dans chaque A.1 quand le diagramme est terminé, autrement dit: 2 m point mousse, 19 m de A.1, 1 m jersey (m centrale), 19m de A.1 et 2 m point mousse = 2+19+1+19+2= 43 m. Bon tricot!

06.10.2020 - 17:12

country flag Astrid Danbolt wrote:

Jeg skjønner ikke hvordan jeg skal strikke 2 kant - m rille.

04.07.2019 - 13:02

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Astrik, det er de 2 kantmasker som skal strikkes i rille i hver side af sjalet. God fornøjelse!

05.07.2019 - 12:19

country flag Chantal wrote:

Bonjour, Au début des explications , c'est indiqué en point mousse, tous les rangs à l'endroit. Dans le diagramme, il y a 5 rangs en jersey , une côte mousse ( 1 m endroit sur l'envers) Merci pour votre réponse ! Bon tricot .

26.09.2018 - 00:22

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Chantal, après 5 rangs jersey dans A.2, A.3 et A.4 on tricote 1 rang en mailles endroit sur l'envers (voir 2ème symbole de la légende), c'est un rang en mailles envers vu sur l'endroit, pas une côte mousse. Bon tricot!

26.09.2018 - 08:01

country flag Rita wrote:

In der Anleitung steht, dass nach dem Stricken der ersten Rapporte A3 anschliessend 2x auf einer Seite Platz haben. Das stimmt nicht, es sind 3x! Siehe Foto! Also A1, dann 1x je A2-A4, dann jeweils A3 3x auf jeder Seite. ect.

10.11.2016 - 16:58

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Rita, genau so ist es, jedesmal Sie A.1,A.2,A.3 in der Höhe stricken, haben Sie genügend Maschen um beidseitig jeder A.3 je 1 rapport mehr zu stricken, dh 1 x A.3, dann 3 x A.3, dann 5 x A3 usw beidseitig der Mittlerenmaschen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

11.11.2016 - 10:10

country flag Rita wrote:

Ich habe angefangen diesen Schal zu stricken und habe nun alle Diagramme einmal gestrickt. Nun steht, dass ein weiteres A3 pro Seite angefügt werden kann. Muss ich dann bei A2-A4 wieder unten beim Diagramm beginnen und einfach A3 2x nacheinander stricken usw? Also von/bis Abnahmen und gleich wieder? Ich bin Anfängerin, entschuldigen sie meine Frage;) Lg, Rita

10.11.2016 - 08:04

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Rita, ja genau, stricken Sie jetzt A.2, A.3 2x und A.4 auf jeden Seite der Mittel-Masche. Danach haben Sie genügend Maschen um A.3 3x in der Breite auf jeden Seite der Mittel-Masche zu stricken usw. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

10.11.2016 - 08:55

country flag Rosa Bonde wrote:

Där är fel i diagrammet! Den fyllda cirkeln ska vara avig på rätsidan o rät på avigsidan. Annars får man inte några ränder på framsidan.

17.10.2016 - 21:28

country flag Michaela wrote:

Hallo, auf dem Detailbild bei der Anleitung - ist das tatsächlich die gleiche Farbe wie vorgeschlagen? Die Farben wirken viel kräftiger, was natürlich auch am Foto liegen kann. Sollte das Detailbild eine andere Farbe sein, weiß man dann auch welche? Danke!

10.11.2015 - 11:51

DROPS Design answered:

Ja, das ist die gleiche Farbe. Es liegt an dem Foto und kann zudem auch an Ihren Bildschirmeinstellungen liegen. Leider ist eine Farbwiedergabe nie ganz korrekt zum Originalfarbton. Außerdem sind kleinere Schwankungen auch zwischen verschiedenen Farbpartien möglich.

18.11.2015 - 11:06

country flag Danie wrote:

Hallo, theoretisch kann man dieses Tuch immer um jeden Mustersatz verlängern oder?

02.10.2015 - 09:56

DROPS Design answered:

Ja, das geht, Sie können die Rapporte so oft in der Höhe wiederholen, bis Sie Ihre gewünschte Größe haben.

03.10.2015 - 11:48