DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 161-38
DROPS design: Pattern no fa-292
Yarn group A
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Size: 35/37 - 38/39 - 40/42
Foot length: 22 - 24 - 26 cm
Sock height: 24 - 26 - 28 cm
Materials: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
50-50-100 g colour no 910, sea mist
50-50-100 g colour no 162, blue sea

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm - or size needed to get 26 sts x 52 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

STRIPES:
Work 1 ridge in each colour (= 2 rows K). Switch colour from RS.

KNITTING TIP:
When turning mid piece, slip 1st st. Tighten yarn and continue as before. This is done to avoid holes in the transitions.

ASSEMBLY TIP:
Toe is tightened tog, insert 1 strand in outer loops of edge sts towards the toe and let it follow piece upwards. Use this strand to tighten tog toe at the end.
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SOCK:
Work sock back and forth from mid under foot, over instep and finish mid under foot. Work entire sock in GARTER ST - see explanation above and STRIPES - see explanation above. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION
TOE: On every 3rd and 4th row work short rows, i.e. every other time you work down towards toe, do not work over all sts, but turn mid piece when 10-13-16 sts remain - read KNITTING TIP.

Cast on 120-130-140 sts on needle size 2.5 mm with blue sea. First work an elevation in the back as follows: Work 12 sts, turn, slip 1 st, work 11 sts. Switch colour.
Work 20 sts, turn, slip 1 st, work 19 sts. Switch colour.
Work 28 sts, turn, slip 1 st, work 27 sts. Switch colour.
Work 36 sts, turn, slip 1 st, work 35 sts. Switch colour.
Work 44 sts, turn, slip 1 st, work 43 sts. Switch colour.
Work 52 sts, turn, slip 1 st, work 51 sts. Switch colour.
Size 40/42: Work 60 sts, turn, slip 1 st, work 59 sts. Switch colour.

ALL SIZES: Work 6 rows over all sts (remember short rows towards the toe - i.e. in the opposite side of elevation). Read
ASSEMBLY TIP! And remember to switch colour for every ridge the rest of piece.

Now dec for heel as follows: Insert 1 marker in the 62nd-68th-72nd st (counted from side with elevation). Dec 1 st on each side of st with marker on every other row 11 times in total = 98-108-118 sts. Work in garter st until piece measures 9-11-13 cm from last dec.
Then inc for heel as follows: Insert 1 marker in the 51st-57th-61st st (counted from side with elevation). Inc 1 st on each side of st with marker on every other row 11 times in total = 120-130-140 sts. Work 6 row over all sts.
Then work an elevation in the back as follows:

Size 40/42: Work 60 sts, turn, slip 1 st, work 59 sts.

ALL SIZES: Work 52 sts, turn, slip 1 st, work 51 sts.
Work 44 sts, turn, slip 1 st, work 43 sts.
Work 36 sts, turn, slip 1 st, work 35 sts.
Work 28 sts, turn, slip 1 st, work 27 sts.
Work 20 sts, turn, slip 1 st, work 19 sts.
Work 12 sts, turn, slip 1 st, work 11 sts.
Put all sts on 1 stitch holder.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew sts from stitch holder and cast-on edge tog with grafting/kitchener stitches. Seam will be under foot and up along the back of leg. Tighten tog toe and fasten the yarn tightly.

Knit another sock the same way.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (31)

country flag CANTINI wrote:

Bonjour, je commence les chaussettes Ocean View et je me pose la question de savoir où commencer la réhausse , vous indiquez milieu dos !!! pour moi c\'est aux extrémités !!! sinon c\'est milieu devant ? Merci de votre réponse, cela m\'aiderai beaucoup !!!

05.12.2023 - 15:26

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Cantini, les chaussettes se tricotent à partir du milieu dos/sous le pied, autrement dit, les rangs raccourcis de la réhausse se trouvent en début de rang sur l'endroit = en haut de la tige, au début de la chaussette puis à la fin de nouveau pour la symétrie. Bon tricot!

05.12.2023 - 16:15

country flag Jennie Beswick wrote:

Re short rows, I read the pattern as saying short rows are every 3rd and 4th row. They don't stop in the middle of the pattern while you are knitting the bulk of the leg between elevations. Is this correct. It means that one of the two colours is not knitted into the toe I'm using block and grey and my short rows are all black as they are rows 3 and 4. Is that correct?

28.07.2022 - 02:06

DROPS Design answered:

Deat Jennie, yes, the short rows are only worked in one color. The pattern is originally worked with 2 multicolor yarns, but you can still see that the toe is worked with only one of them if you zoom in the picture. If you work with unicolor yarns, the toe will be of a single color, in your case, black. Happy knitting!

31.07.2022 - 18:20

country flag Farha wrote:

Hi guys. My foot length is 9” and 3/4. Which size would you recommend I make as I’m between sizes? Thanks in advance for your help.

09.03.2022 - 18:22

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Farha, you can probably make the 2nd size - but remember to check your tension in both width and height. Happy knitting!

09.03.2022 - 19:05

country flag Ewa wrote:

Dobrý den, upletla jsem ponožku Oean View DROPS 161-38 - ale nevím si rady se sešitím pletacím stehem - jednu stranu mám na jehlici (tady sešívání chápu) - ale co s druhou stranou ponožky, která už není na jehlici? Mám ta oka znovu nabrat a pak sešívat? Nebo poradíte lepší variantu? Děkuji velmi za odpověď.

02.05.2021 - 12:19

country flag Hilly wrote:

Wanneer er staat "Brei 6 nld over alle st (denk om de verkorte toeren richting de teen)"; zijn dat dan 6 hele toeren en 4 verkorte (totaal 5 ribbels), of 4 hele en 2 verkorte (3 ribbels)?

17.06.2020 - 17:53

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Hilly,

Je breit 6 hele naalden en binnen die 6 naalden houd je de verkorte toeren van de teen in de gaten (dus elke 3e en 4e naald verkorte toeren, waarbij je niet over de laatste steken van de teen breit).

18.06.2020 - 09:22

country flag Monica Trautmann wrote:

I have made one sock and started the second. I seem to have an excess of material in the toe region. Is there a way to make a toe shaping? I have knit all kinds of socks but this is my first sideways sock. I found the instructions not clear for the toe short rows. Can anyone clarify this to me?

15.05.2019 - 22:05

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Trautmann, to shape the toe you have to work short rows: every row worked over all stitches (= after the elevation leg at the beg of sock + before elevation at the end of sock), work all rows from RS as follows: 2 rows over all stitches, 2 rows until 10-13-16 sts remain towards toe. This way, you will have less rows on toe than on the rest of the sock and it will shape the toe section. Happy knitting!

16.05.2019 - 10:23

country flag Martina wrote:

Leider ist das nicht die richtige Antwort. Meine Frage bezog sich nicht auf die Fertigstellung der Spitze, sondern auf das Schließen der Längsnaht. Martina Frage Gibt es ein Video, welches zeigt, wie im Maschenstich, offene Maschen mit Anschlagmaschen verbunden werden? Ich verzweifele gerade daran DROPS Design Antwort Liebe Martina, ja sicher dieses Video zeigt wie man den Faden an der Kante einfach dem Strickstück "mitlaufen" lassen kann. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

06.05.2019 - 10:50

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Martina, Entschuldigung für das Misverständnis - hier werden Sie die Anschlagskante zu den stillgelegten Maschen zusammennähen, mit den beiden Technikien: wie beim Schulternaht (= Anschlagskante) und Maschenstich (= stillgelegten Maschen). Viel Spaß beim fertigstellen!

06.05.2019 - 11:08

country flag Martina wrote:

Gibt es ein Video, welches zeigt, wie im Maschenstich, offene Maschen mit Anschlagmaschen verbunden werden? Ich verzweifele gerade daran 😕

05.05.2019 - 10:04

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Martina, ja sicher dieses Video zeigt wie man den Faden an der Kante einfach dem Strickstück "mitlaufen" lassen kann. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

06.05.2019 - 09:51

country flag Nora Selmer wrote:

Jeg har ikke strikket sokker før og skjønner ikke oppskriften helt. Når jeg har felt av til hæl og sitter med 118 m på to forskjellige pinner, skal jeg da begynne å strikke de 118 maskene frem og tilbake SAMMEN eller frem og tilbake hver for seg på to ulike pinner?

30.03.2019 - 11:21

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Nora. Du har 118 masker, men de er på samme pinne. Når du lager hælfelling skal du felle ved å strikke 2 masker rett sammen på hver side av merket (alså du feller dem ikke av). Dette gjentar du 11 ganger (til du har felt 22 masker totalt). Hælen vil da være en liten spiss/bul på arbeidet, men alle maskene er på samme pinne. Når du så øker igjen til hæl på den andre siden vil det bli en ny spiss/bul men den andre veien. God fornøyelse

05.04.2019 - 14:18

country flag Mimi Kirstine Jensen wrote:

Hej Jeg har et spørgsmål vedrøende tå, bliver de forkortede pinde strikkede genem hele arbejdet ?? TÅ: På hver 3. og 4.p strikkes der forkortede p, det vil sige at hver 2. gang man strikker ned mod tåen strikkes der ikke over alle m, men vendes midt i arb når der er 10-13-16 m tilbage - læs STRIKKETIPS! Vh Mimi K Jensen

05.02.2019 - 17:25

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Mimi. Ja, de forkortede pinnene strikkes gjennom hele arbeidet, der du strikker over tåen. God fornøyelse

11.02.2019 - 08:39