DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.00 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Little Alawa

Crochet Pocahontas hat for baby and children. Piece is worked with braids and feathers. Size 1 - 10 years.

DROPS Extra 0-1074
DROPS design: Pattern no ee-130-bn
Yarn group E or C + C
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Size: 1/2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 years
Head circumference: 44/50 – 50/52 – 52/53 – 53/54 – 54/55 cm.
Materials:
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio
250 g for all sizes in colour no 02, black
50 g for all sizes in colour no 26, hot pink
50 g for all sizes in colour no 54, medium purple
50 g for all sizes in colour no 35, lime
Accessories: Black elastic cord (approx. 2 mm in width) for hat edge.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 6 mm – or size needed to get 12 htr x 9 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.00 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Replace first htr on round/row with 2 ch. Finish every round with 1 sl st in 2nd ch from beg of round.

COLOUR CHANGE:
Crochet last sl st on the last round with the colour of next round to get a nice colour change.

CROCHET 3 HTR TOG:
Make 1 YO, insert hook in next st, get yarn, * make 1 YO, insert hook in same st, get yarn *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, make 1 YO and pull yarn through all sts on hook.

TIP:
If you want the feathers can be stiffened with some steel wire but this is not recommended when hat is used for play.
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HAT:
The piece is worked top down. Work 4 ch on hook size 6 mm with black and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. READ CROCHET INFO!
ROUND 1: Work 8 htr in the ch-ring.
ROUND 2: Work 2 htr in every htr the entire round = 16 htr.
ROUND 3: Work 1 htr in first htr, * 2 htr in next htr, 1 htr in next htr *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 2 htr in last htr = 24 htr. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
ROUND 4: Work 1 htr in each of the first 2 htr, * 2 htr in next htr, 1 htr in each of the next 2 htr *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 2 htr in last htr = 32 htr.
ROUND 5: Work 1 htr in each of the first 3 htr, * 2 htr in next htr, 1 htr in each of the next 3 htr *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 2 htr in last htr = 40 htr.
ROUND 6: Work 1 htr in each of the first 4 htr, * 2 htr in next htr, 1 htr in each of the next 4 htr *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 2 htr in last htr = 48 htr.
ROUND 7: Work 1 htr in every htr while AT THE SAME TIME inc 0-2-4-4-6 htr evenly = 48-50-52-52-54 htr.
ROUND 8: Work 1 htr in every htr the entire round.
Repeat 8th round 2-3-4-4-6 more times = 10-11-12-12-13 rounds.
Work next round as follows: Work 1 htr in every htr while AT THE SAME TIME inc 4 htr evenly and switch to hot pink for next round - READ COLOUR CHANGE = 52-54-56-56-58 htr.

Now work pattern as follows:
ROUND 1: REMEMBER CROCHET INFO! Work 1 htr in back loop of every htr the entire round with hot pink, switch to lime.
ROUND 2: Work 1 htr in back loop of first htr, 1 ch, 3 HTR TOG – see explanation above - in back loop of next htr, 2 ch, skip 1 htr, * 3 htr tog in back loop of next htr, 2 ch, skip 1 htr *, repeat from *-* until 1 htr remains on round before, work 3 htr tog in back loop of last htr, switch to medium purple = 26-27-28-28-29 htr groups.
ROUND 3: Work 1 htr in first htr, 1 htr in next htr, * 1 htr in next ch-space, 1 htr in next htr *, repeat from *-* the entire round, switch to hot pink = 52-54-56-56-58 htr.
ROUND 4: Work 1 htr in back loop of every htr the entire round with hot pink, switch to black.
ROUND 5: Work 1 htr in back loop of every htr the entire round.
ROUND 6: Work 1 htr in every htr the entire round. Fasten off. Hat measures approx. 18-19-20-20-22 cm from the top.

FEATHER:
Worked back and forth on hook size 6 mm with hot pink.
ROW 1: Work 5 ch (= 1 ch + 1 htr + 2 ch), 1 htr in first ch worked. Turn.
ROW 2: Work 2 ch (= 1 htr), in ch-space work 1 htr + 2 ch + 1 htr, work 1 htr in last htr (i.e. in 3rd ch from beg of previous row). Turn.
Repeat 2nd row 5 more times.
ROW 8: Work 2 ch (= 1 htr), in ch-space work 1 tr + 1 dtr + 1 ch + 1 dtr + 1 tr, 1 htr in last htr (i.e. in 2nd ch from beg of previous row). Fasten off.
Work a medium purple feather the same way but work 2nd row 8 times in total.

RIBBON:
Worked back and forth on hook size 6 mm with lime.
ROW 1: Work 6 ch (= 1 htr + 4 ch), work 1 htr in 3rd ch from hook, 2 ch, skip 1 ch, 1 htr in each of the last 2 ch. Turn.
ROW 2: Work 2 ch (= 1 htr), in ch-space work 1 htr + 2 ch + 1 htr, 1 htr in last htr (i.e. in 2nd ch from beg of previous row). Turn.
Repeat 2nd row 3 more times.
ROW 6: Work 2 ch (= 1 htr), in ch-space work 1 htr + 1 ch + 1 htr, 1 htr in last htr (i.e. in 2nd ch from beg of previous row). Fasten off. Work another ribbon the same way.

FLOWER:
Work 4 ch on hook size 6 mm with lime and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Work 2 ch (= 1 htr), 9 htr in ring, switch to medium purple.
ROUND 2: Work 3 ch, 2 tr in first htr, 3 ch, 1 sl st in next htr, * 3 ch, 2 tr in next tr, 3 ch, 1 sl st in next htr *, repeat from *-* 2 more times, 3 ch, 2 tr in next tr, 3 ch, 1 sl st in 1st ch from beg of round. Fasten off.

BRAID:
Cut 21 lengths with black, 100 cm each. Fold them double and tie a short length of yarn around the fold. Divide into 3 equal parts and braid the parts. Tie a short length of yarn around the brain approx. 10 cm from the end. Make another braid the same way.

ASSEMBLY:

Sew the braids on the inside of the hat, one each side of the forehead approx. 16-17-17-18-18 cm apart. Sew the ribbons tog into rings and fasten around the end of the braids. Place the medium purple feather behind the hot pink feather against the edge on the upper hot pink round on hat and fasten - NOTE: Sew approx. 3/4 of each feather on to hat so that only upper part of each feather is loose. Sew feathers on to right side of hat - see photo. Fasten flower through all layers. Add 2 elastic cords from WS of hat to keep it in place as follows: Use a tapestry needle and weave in the elastic cord. One just over the top hot pink round and a second one just above the cast-off edge. Make a knot to fasten the elastic cord at desired length.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (13)

country flag Elliott wrote:

Det här är inte en kostym eller nått roligt, det är rasism och mönstret borde verkligen tas bort. Its offensive and not okay!

17.12.2021 - 16:57

country flag Lindsay wrote:

I'm being censored from saying bad things about this pattern.

14.10.2021 - 04:50

country flag Lindsay wrote:

I tried to write more but im getting a msg that there were forbidden words in it even though there was no cussing

14.10.2021 - 04:49

country flag Embla Forslund wrote:

Why do you restrict the words and try to hide the ra**ism? Why is it still here?

24.10.2020 - 10:26

country flag Flor wrote:

Quero saber se tem videio no youtube

27.05.2020 - 00:35

DROPS Design answered:

Bom dia, Pode ver os vídeos que ensinam os vários pontos e técnicas no fim da página da receita. Bom Croché!

28.05.2020 - 10:33

country flag Marie wrote:

Looks like others have touched on this, but I'm disappointed to see this pattern published. Using generalizing, culturally inaccurate language and design perpetuates the harm which Native Americans have fared for centuries. It's completely racially insensitive. The cultures of marginized, systemically disenfranchised people should never be our costume. Not sure what to expect from a company which also has a yarn line called Eskimo...

22.05.2020 - 04:58

country flag Summer wrote:

I absolutely have loved everything Drops does and am forever grateful for their mission to make fiber arts accessible. But the above pattern for a Native American headdress is VERY offensive to me and my people. I am a proud Lakota and my culture is not a costume.

22.05.2020 - 04:33

country flag Anna wrote:

For the reasons already mentioned: Why is this pattern still online?

15.09.2019 - 11:45

country flag Bham wrote:

Love this and no it is not racist. It celebratory. It is not making fun of anyone. Ever watched Pochahantus from Disney? Quit looking for victimhood. Celebrate.

08.09.2019 - 07:13

country flag Line wrote:

Jeg har brugt opskriften til inspiration til en voksen, og ville da gerne vise et billede. Jeg mener ikke det er racisme eller hvad vi nu skal sættes i af bokse. Det er en nysgerrighed og betagelse af andre kulturer. Det er muligt vi kun trækker meget lidt frem, men det er på ingen måde for at gøre grin med disse spændende gamle folkeslag.

15.02.2019 - 13:17