DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 0.75 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 5.25£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 162-39
DROPS design: Pattern no w-560
Yarn group C or A + A
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LOW BASKET:
Measurements: Diameter: approx. 23 cm Height: approx. 13 cm
Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
200 g colour no 16, white
50 g colour no 100, light wash
50 g colour no 02, light turquoise
50 g colour no 09, strong blue

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3 mm – or size needed to get 20 dc x 22 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

BASKET TO HANG:
Size: Circumference bottom: approx. 73 cm Circumference opening: approx. 60 cm Height: approx. 26 cm
Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
300 g colour no 100, light wash
50 g colour no 16, white

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5 mm – or size needed to get 18 dc x 21 rows = 10 x 10 cm

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
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DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 0.75 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 5.25£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.

CROCHET INFO:
Beg every dc round with 1 ch and finish round with 1 sl st in first ch at beg of round with the colour for next round.
Beg every tr round with 3 ch and finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round with the colour for next round.

STRIPE COLOURS 1 - low basket (applies to bottom and side):
Order of stripes:
6 rounds strong blue
3 rounds white
4 rounds light wash
1 round strong blue
1 round white
4 rounds in light turquoise
1 round strong blue
Now work round in white until beg of stripe colours 2.

STRIPE COLOURS 2 - low basket (applies to edge):
Order of stripes:
3 rounds strong blue
2 rounds white
1 round light wash
1 round strong blue
1 round white
2 rounds in light turquoise
1 round strong blue
2 rounds white
1 round light wash

PATTERN COLOURS - basket to hang:
Pattern is worked in light wash, except round 7 and 9 in diagram - see arrows in diagram, which are worked in white.
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LOW BASKET:
Worked from bottom up.
Work 4 ch on hook size 3 mm with strong blue and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: READ CROCHET INFO and STRIPE COLOURS 1. Work 6 dc in ch-ring.
ROUND 2: Work 2 dc in every dc = 12 dc.
ROUND 3: * 1 dc in first dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 18 dc.
ROUND 4: Work 1 dc in every dc but work 2 dc in every 3rd dc = 24 dc.
ROUND 5: Work 1 dc in every dc but work 2 dc in every 4th dc = 30 dc. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
Then work 1 dc more between inc until 24 rounds have been worked = 144 dc on last round. Bottom measures approx. 23 cm in diameter. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
Now work the side of basket as follows: Work 1 dc in every dc until piece measures approx. 14 cm.
Turn piece to work in opposite direction (this is done because the edge is folded outwards, and the pattern will be on RS). Work edge as follows: READ CROCHET INFO and STRIPE COLOURS 2. Work A.1 the entire round (= 36 repetitions). When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, work last round as follows: Work 2 dc in first dc, 1 ch, skip 2 dc, * 2 dc in next dc, 1 ch, skip 2 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round (= 48 times in total). Fasten off. Piece measures approx. 23 cm. Fold the edge outwards.
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BASKET TO HANG:
Work 4 ch on hook size 3.5 mm with light wash and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.

ROUND 1: READ CROCHET INFO! Work 6 dc in ch-ring = 6 dc.
ROUND 2: Work 2 dc in every dc = 12 dc.
ROUND 3: * 2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 18 dc.
ROUND 4: * 2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 24 dc.
ROUND 5: * 2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 30 dc.
ROUND 6: * 2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 36 dc.
ROUND 7: * 2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in each of the next 5 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 42 dc.
ROUND 8: * 2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in each of the next 6 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 48 dc. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
ROUND 9-22: Then work 1 dc more between inc = 132 dc on last round. Bottom measures approx. 23 cm in diameter. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

Then work pattern according to diagram as follows:
Read CROCHET INFO and PATTERN COLOURS! Work A.1 the entire round (= 33 repetitions). Work A.1 2 times in total vertically = 132 tr on last round. Now dec in pattern, i.e. work as follows: * Work A.1 3 times, A.2, A.1 4 times, A.2 *, repeat from *-* 2 more times (= 3 times in total). When A.1 and A.2 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 108 tr on round. Piece measures approx. 25½ cm. Now work a round with white as follows: Work 15 ch (= strap), 2 dc in first tr, * 1 ch, skip 2 st, 2 dc in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round, work 15 dc in ch for strap and finish with 1 sl st in first dc. Fasten off.

Diagram

symbols = ch
symbols = dc in st
symbols = dc around ch
symbols = work 2 dc into 1 dc as follows:
Insert hook in first st, get the yarn,
insert hook in next st, get the yarn,
make a YO and pull yarn through
all 3 sts on hook
symbols = tr in st
symbols = tr around st
symbols = Work 2 tr into 1 tr: Work 1 tr in st but
wait with last pull through (= 2
loops on hook), then work next tr
in st but on last pull through
pull yarn through all sts on hook
symbols = Applies to basket to hang: Work round in white
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (16)

country flag Roberta Marchini wrote:

Non riesco a capire come partire nel giro 4 di A1. Come posso sostituire la prima maglia alta con 3 catenelle se il punto prevede di fare la prima maglia alta nella seconda maglia del giro precedente?

11.05.2022 - 23:40

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Roberta, può iniziare il giro 4 come indicato nel diagramma. Buon lavoro!

02.07.2022 - 21:51

country flag Rose-Marie wrote:

Hej igen! Jag vet inte vilken video som skulle hjälpa mig gå vidare med diagrammet? Jag ska alltså börja med 4 fm enligt A1, 36 ggr? Ska jag upprepa det i fyra omgångar enligt diagrammet? Och sedan fortsätta att följa diagrammet från höger till vänster? Förstår ju att ni inte kan skriva om era mönsterbeskrivningar, tänkte bara om det gick att få en översättning av diagrammet Mvh Rosie

01.04.2020 - 17:35

DROPS Design answered:

Hej igen, om du er der hvor du skal hækle 1 fm i hver fm til arbejdet måler ca 14 cm, så behøver du ikke følge diagrammet. Du fortsætter med diagrammet efter de 14 cm :)

16.04.2020 - 16:07

country flag Rose-Marie wrote:

Vore fantastiskt om man kunde få dessa korgar med vanlig mönsterbeskrivning, då jag och en del andra har svårt att läsa, följa diagram!

01.04.2020 - 10:13

country flag Rose-Marie wrote:

Ojoj, måste vara riktigt trögfattad! Ska man vända på arbetet efter de 24 varven när botten mäter 23 cm, eller efter man gjort 1fm i varje fm tills arbetet mäter 14 cm?!

31.03.2020 - 12:39

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Rose-Marie, Först när kanten är 14 cm vänder du på arbetet :)

16.04.2020 - 16:01

country flag Rose-Marie wrote:

Hej igen! Går det att få diagrammet översatt i vanlig beskrivning ? Aldrig virkat efter diagram, missade att det var med på detta mönster.

31.03.2020 - 11:59

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Rose-Marie, jo men det klarer du :) har du set vores videoer som viser hvordan man gør? (vi kan ikke skrive vores mønster om)

01.04.2020 - 09:50

country flag Rose-Marie wrote:

Hej! Håller på med den låga korgen Sea Treasur, Paris, kommit till varv 6, och ökat med en fm som det står, har tidigare korekt på varv 5=30 fm, och om jag förstår det rätt så 4 fm och sedan två fm i samma varvet ut, men avslutas varv 6 med fyra fm? Hur många fm blir det mellan varje ökning? Jag är nybörjare på mönster. Vore tacksam för hjälp. Mvh Rosie

29.03.2020 - 12:32

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Rose-Marie, på varv 6 virkar du 2 i var 5:e m (ja 4 m mellan) osv. Lycka till :)

14.04.2020 - 16:01

country flag Louise Sandström wrote:

Jag har tänkt göra en hängkorg att ha i badrum och tänkt att ha ett garn som är ca 2 mm tjokt och lite styvt o hållbart för badrum . Tänkt liknande makramé finns det ?

08.08.2019 - 18:13

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Louise, tror du at du kan bruge DROPS Paris - eventuelt kan den jo også lægges dobbelt? God fornøjelse!

09.08.2019 - 08:24

country flag Esther wrote:

Der Korb ist sehr schön und lässt sich auch für Anfänger leicht nacharbeiten. Er ist nur leider viel zu groß und bleibt durch seine Größe auch im umgeklappten Zustand nicht stehen, sondern fällt in sich zusammen. Das ist sehr schade! Mich würde interessieren, wie ihr es geschafft habt, dass der Korb wie auf dem Foto so schön stabil steht.

13.07.2019 - 22:24

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Esther, stimmt Ihre Maschenprobe? Hier häkeln wir Paris etwas fester, dh mit einer Häkelnadel Nr 3/3,5 (je nach dem Korb) und 20 oder 18 feste Maschen = 10 cm in der Breite. Häkelnadel anpassen, damit Sie die richtige Maschenprobe bekommen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

15.07.2019 - 09:56

country flag Antonella wrote:

Buongiorno. Premetto che sono una novellina e la domanda potrebbe essere banale. Sto provando a fare il cestino basso e il fondo mi viene ondulato e a 7 lati, gli aumenti sono in linea, ogni giro, uno sull'altro. C'è sicuramente un errore ma mi sembra di fare (già 3 volte) religiosamente secondo istruzioni. Dove sbaglio?

04.04.2016 - 09:47

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Antonella. Verifichi di mantenere sempre costante la tensione del suo lavoro e di seguire tutte le indicazioni riportate, anche quelle sotto il paragrafo suggerimento per il lavoro. Nella sezione dei video, trova tutti i video che possono aiutarla ad eseguire correttamente il modello. Dopo aver lavorato anche i lati del cestino e dopo averlo lavato, dovrebbe assumere una forma più regolare. Buon lavoro!

04.04.2016 - 10:38

country flag Samone Liti wrote:

Bara jag som inte får till 23 cm på båda korgarna när jag följer mönstret? Jag tycker mina blir mindre. Och sen är beskrivningen av hängkorgen konstig för min blev "vasformad" :(

11.01.2016 - 11:37