DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 158-15
DROPS design: Pattern no u-748
Yarn group B
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SCARF:
Measurements: approx. 36 x 150 cm
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
400 g colour no 48, wine red

HAT:
Size: S/M - L/XL
Head circumference approx.: 54/56 - 58/60 cm
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
100 g colour no 48, wine red

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5 mm - or size needed to get 20 tr or and 3 repetitions of pattern A.2/A.5 in width = 10 cm and 10 rows vertically = 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO 1:
At beg of every row replace 1st tr with 3 ch.

CROCHET INFO 2:
At beg of every round replace 1st tr with 3 ch. Finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1-A.6.

TR-GROUPS:
1 tr-group = in same tr/around same ch-space work: 2 tr, 2 ch, 2 tr. At beg of round/row work 3 ch = replace 1st tr in tr-group/1st tr.

REVERSE CROCHET:
Work as dc but backwards. I.e. crochet around from left to right
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SCARF:
Worked back and forth. Work 66 ch with Karisma on hook size 3.5 mm. Work 1 tr in the 4th ch from hook, work 1 tr in each of the next 4 ch, skip 1 ch. * Work 1 tr in each of the next 5 tr, skip 1 ch *, repeat from *-* until 3 ch remain, work 1 tr in each of these. READ CROCHET INFO 1. Turn piece and work according to A.Z in diagram A.1, A.2 and A.3 as follows:
Work 1 tr in first tr, 1 ch, skip 3 tr, * 1 tr in next tr, 1 ch, skip 3 tr, in next tr work 1 TR-GROUP - see explanation above, skip 3 tr *, repeat from *-* until 1 tr remains and work 1 tr. Turn piece. Continue like this. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! When piece measures approx. 150 cm, work 1 tr in every tr, 1 tr in every ch and 1 tr in each tr in tr-group (no tr in the 2 ch in tr-group), work like this the entire row. Fasten off.

HAT:
Worked in the round. Work 2 ch with Karisma on hook size 3.5 mm.
ROUND 1: Work 12 tr in 1st ch worked
ROUND 2: Work 2 tr in every tr = 24 tr - Read CROCHET INFO 2.
ROUND 3: * 1 tr in next tr, work 2 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round (= 12 inc tr) = 36 tr. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
ROUND 4: * 1 tr in each of the next 2 tr, work 2 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 48 tr.
ROUND 5: * 1 tr in each of the next 3 tr, work 2 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 60 tr.
ROUND 6: * 1 tr in each of the next 4 tr, work 2 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 72 tr.
ROUND 7: * 1 tr in each of the next 5 tr, work 2 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 84 tr.
ROUND 8: * 1 tr in each of the next 6 tr, work 2 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 96 tr.
ROUND 9: Work 1 tr in every tr AT THE SAME TIME inc 2-9 tr evenly = 98-105 tr.
Then work according to A.4-A.6 as follows:
ROUND 10: Work 4 ch (counted as 1st tr and 1 ch), skip the next 3 tr, * 1 TR-GROUP - read explanation above - in next tr, 1 ch, skip the next 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 1 ch, skip 3 tr *, repeat from *-* until 3 tr remain, 1 tr-group in next tr, 1 ch and skip 2 tr = 14-15 tr-groups.
ROUND 11: Work 1 tr-group in 1st tr from previous round, * 1 ch, 1 tr in ch-space on next tr-group, 1 ch, 1 tr-group in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round.
ROUND 12: Work sl sts until ch-space on 1st tr-group, 4 ch (counted as 1st tr and 1 ch), * 1 tr-group in next tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in ch-space on next tr-group, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round.
ROUND 13: Work as 11TH ROUND.
ROUND 14: Work as 12TH ROUND.
ROUND 15: Work 1 ch and work * 3 dc in next ch/ch-space, 3 dc in next ch/ch-space, 2 dc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 112-120 dc.
ROUND 16: * 1 tr in each of the next 13-14 dc, work 2 tr in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 120-128 tr.
ROUND 17-18: Work 1 tr in every tr.
ROUND 19: * 1 tr in each of the next 29-31 tr, 2 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 124-132 tr.
ROUND 20-22: Work 1 tr in every tr.
ROUND 23: Work 1 tr in each of the next 30-32 tr, work 2 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 128-136 tr.
ROUND 24-26: Work 1 tr in every tr.
ROUND 27: Work REVERSE CROCHET - see explanation above, 1 reverse crochet in every tr the entire round. Fasten off.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 15.09.2016
ROUND 15: Work 1 ch and work * 3 dc in next ch/ch-space, 3 dc in next ch/ch-space, 2 dc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 112-120 dc.
Updated online: 24.01.2017
Correction 3rd symbol in diagram: 1 ch (not sl st)

Diagram

symbols = tr
symbols = tr-group (2 tr, 2 ch and 2 tr)
symbols = 1 ch
symbols = row explained in pattern
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (20)

country flag Marion wrote:

Bonjour, concernant l'écharpe, une fois les 66 ml montées et les 4 premières brides faites dans les premières ml de la chainette il est indiqué "1 B dans chacune des 5 B suivantes, sauter 1 ml". mais il n'y a pas encore de brides : c'est la chainette de montage. n'est-ce pas plutôt "1 B dans chacune des 5 ml suivantes". merci pour votre aide. Marion

29.02.2024 - 17:39

country flag Lisa Juditha Ispas wrote:

Der er en fejl i opskriften til tørklædet. HALSTØRKLÆDE: Arb hækles frem og tilbage. Hækl 66 lm med Karisma og hæklenål 3,5. Hækl 1 st i den 4. lm fra nålen, hækl 1 st i hver af de 4 næste lm, spring over 1 lm. * ---> Hækl 1 st i hver af de 5 næste st

31.08.2020 - 16:13

country flag Tanya wrote:

Hello I am starting to make the scarf and i do not read diagrams well so i am very confused how the pattern is suppose to read starting at the point of the diagram is there any way to get the pattern in writtten form rather than using the diagram? Thank you Tanya

08.05.2019 - 03:38

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Tanya! Unfortunately there is not any written version of the pattern but please see How to read crochet diagrams. Happy crocheting!

08.05.2019 - 07:39

country flag Márta wrote:

Nagyon jó leírás, köszi! :)

04.05.2018 - 16:59

country flag Veronique Papon wrote:

Bonjour , merci pour tous les conseils qui m'ont été très précieux. je suis bloqué au tour 15 :1 ml *3 ms dans la ml /l'arceau suivant 3 ms dans la ml ........... dans l 'attente véronique

28.12.2017 - 15:48

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Véronique, au tour 15, crochetez: 1 ml, puis *3 ms autour de l'arceau suivant, 2 ms autour de l'arceau suivant*, et répétez de *-* tout le tour, vous aurez ainsi alternativement 3 ms et 2 ms autour de chaque maille en l'air du tour précédent. Bon crochet!

02.01.2018 - 09:53

country flag Papon Véronique wrote:

Bonjour , de nouveau bloqué dans mon ouvrage , -le bonnet tour 9 :que veux dire 1 bride dans chaque bride et en même temps augmenter 2-9 brides à intervalles réguliers . merci pour vos conseilles véronique

09.12.2017 - 09:42

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Papon, si vous crochetez la 1ère taille, vous augmentez 2 brides à intervalles réguliers au 9ème tour, si vous crochetez la 2ème taille, vous augmentez 9 brides à intervalles réguliers au 9ème tour. Bon crochet!

11.12.2017 - 10:51

country flag Veronique Papon wrote:

Bonjour que veux dire crocheter 1 bride dans chacune des 4 mailles en l'air, sauter 1 maille en l'air . merci je n'ais pas eu l'infos du magasin de laines , pas de réponses a à mon mail .

06.12.2017 - 15:14

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Madame Papon, vous allez crocheter ici 4 brides à suivre (1 bride dans chacune des 4 mailles en l'air suivantes) = vous avez crocheté 4 brides au-dessus de 5 ml, puis vous sautez la ml suivante et répétez (1 B dans chacune des 5 ml suivantes = 5 brides au total, sautez 1 ml), vous avez ainsi 5 brides au-dessus de 6 ml. Bon crochet!

07.12.2017 - 10:15

country flag Veronique Papon wrote:

Bonjour , je ne comprends pas bien les explications ! y a t il une vidéo de ce modèle ?..... merci véronique

05.12.2017 - 23:41

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Véronique, nous n'avons pas de vidéo pour ce modèle, vous pouvez volontiers poser votre question ici ou, pour toute assistance personnalisée, vous adresser au magasin où vous avez acheté votre laine. Bon tricot!

06.12.2017 - 09:48

country flag Vaillant wrote:

Bonjour Dans le diagramme vous mettez de son mailles coulées entre un groupe de brides et une bride. Ne serait ce pas plutôt une maille en l'air ? Merci pour votre réponse

23.01.2017 - 20:01

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Vaillant, il semble que vous ayez raison, la légende a été corrigée, merci. Bon crochet!

24.01.2017 - 09:27

country flag Claire BENEVENT wrote:

Bonjour, dans les explications du bonnet, il y a une ml entre les deux groupes de B alors que dans le diagramme il me semble que c'est une mc. Est-ce que vous pouvez m'éclairer ? bonne journée Claire BENEVENT

29.01.2016 - 14:24

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Benevent, effectivement, au début du 12ème tour du bonnet, on va faire 1 mc jusqu'à l'arceau du 1er groupe de B, puis on continue comme avant (pour que les groupes soient bien situées). Bon crochet!

29.01.2016 - 16:39