DROPS Cloud
DROPS Cloud
72% Alpaca, 21% Polyamide, 7% Wool
Discontinued
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Day After Day

Knitted DROPS jumper with moss st and raglan, worked top down in "Cloud" or "Snow". Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 157-27
DROPS design: Pattern no co-005
Yarn group E or C + C
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS CLOUD from Garnstudio
400-400-450-500-550-600 g colour no 04, medium grey
Or use:
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio
600-650-700-800-850-950 g colour no 46, medium grey

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 or 60 and 80 cm) SIZE 10 mm - or size needed to get 9 sts x 15 rows in moss st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 or 60 cm) SIZE 9 mm – for edge in garter st.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Cloud
DROPS Cloud
72% Alpaca, 21% Polyamide, 7% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
MEASURING TIP:
Because of the weight of the yarn all measurements must be done by holding the piece up otherwise the garment will be too long when worn.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

GARTER ST (in the round on circular needle):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows in pattern seen from RS.

MOSS ST:
Row/Round 1: * K 1, P 1 *, repeat from *-*.
Row/Round 2: K over P and P over K. Repeat 2nd row/round.

RAGLAN:
Inc for raglan by working a YO on each side of A.1 in every raglan. On next round work YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front) to avoid holes. NOTE: Work the new sts in moss st.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making a YO.
On next round work YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front) to avoid holes. NOTE: Work the new sts in moss st.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec inside 1 edge st in garter st in each side.
Dec as follows after 1 edge st in garter st: K 2 tog.
Dec as follows before 1 edge st in garter st and 2 sts in moss st: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, 1 edge st in garter st.
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JUMPER:
Worked top down in the round on circular needle.
Cast on 44-48-52-56-60-64 sts on circular needle size 10 mm with Cloud or Snow. Work 1 round in stocking st AT THE SAME TIME inc 10 sts evenly = 54-58-62-66-70-74 sts. Now insert 4 markers in the piece, beg from raglan sts on the right side at the back: Insert a marker, A.1 (= 4 sts), K 1, A.1 (= sleeve), insert a marker, 18-20-22-24-26-28 sts MOSS ST – see explanation above (= front piece), insert a marker, A.1, K 1, A.1 (= sleeve), insert a marker, 18-20-22-24-26-28 sts in moss st (= back piece). Continue like this AT THE SAME TIME on next round beg inc for RAGLAN – see explanation above! NOTE! Inc differently on body and sleeves. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!

RAGLAN BODY:
Inc every other round 2-3-4-5-6-8 times, every 4th round 1-1-1-2-2-3 times and every 6th round 4-4-4-3-3-2 times. There are 32-36-40-44-48-54 sts on front and back piece.

RAGLAN SLEEVE:
Inc every round 3-4-4-5-5-6 times, every other round 7-7-8-8-9-9 times and every 4th round 4 times in all sizes. There are 37-39-41-43-45-47 sts for each sleeve.

When all inc are done there are 138-150-162-174-186-202 sts on round. Piece measures 27-29-31-33-35-37 cm - READ MEASURING TIP. Now slip the first 37-39-41-43-45-47 sts on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 7 new sts under sleeve, work the next 32-36-40-44-48-54 sts (= front piece), slip the next 37-39-41-43-45-47 sts on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 7 new sts under sleeve, work the remaining 32-36-40-44-48-54 sts (= back piece).

BODY:
There are now 78-86-94-102-110-122 sts for body. Continue with moss st over the next 3 sts, P 1 (= the side), insert a marker in this st, moss st over the next 38-42-46-50-54-60 sts, P 1 (= the side), insert a marker in this st, moss st over the remaining 38-42-46-50-54-60 sts on round. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. When piece measures 7 cm, inc 1 st on each side of P sts with markers in each side - READ INCREASE TIP. Repeat inc when piece measures 22-23-24-25-26-27 cm = 86-94-102-110-118-130 sts. Continue to work until piece measures 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm in total - remember MEASURING TIP. Cast off with K over K and P over P.

SLEEVE:
The sleeve is worked back and forth on circular needle. Slip the 37-39-41-43-45-47 sts from stitch holder back on circular needle size 10 mm. Now continue moss st over all sts. Cast on 4 sts at the end of the next 2 rows = 45-47-49-51-53-55 sts. NOTE: Work the new sts in moss st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. On next row dec 1 st in each side of piece - Read DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec on every row from RS 4 more times = 35-37-39-41-43-45 sts. Then dec every 4½-3½-3½-3-3-3 cm 6-7-7-8-9-9 times = 23-23-25-25-25-27 sts. When sleeve measures 39-38-38-38-38-37 cm from the new sts under sleeves - remember MEASURING TIP - switch to circular needle size 9 mm. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Cast off.
Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew underarm seams inside 1 edge st in garter st. Sew tog the openings under the sleeves. Cut the yarn and fasten.

NECK EDGE:
Pick up 44-48-52-56-60-64 sts (= 1 st in every st in cast-on edge) around the neck on needle size 9 mm with Cloud or Snow. Work 1 ridge AT THE SAME TIME adjust no of sts to 48-50-50-52-52-54. Work 2 ridges. Cast off.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 02.10.2014
under RAGLAN SLEEVE at the end (= back piece, not = front piece:

....work the remaining 32-36-40-44-48-54 sts (= back piece).

Diagram

symbols = K
symbols = P
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (25)

country flag Avril McKoy wrote:

Hello, I am a little confused when doing the raglan increase. For sleeves, each side of raglan meaning increasing by 4 stitches per sleeve each increase? And for body 4 stitches? In total per round of increase? Thanks ☺️

28.10.2023 - 15:19

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Avril, as explained in RAGLAN, you increase 1 stitch on each side of A.1. Even though A.1 is in the sleeves, the increases are divided into the parts as follows: Before the first A.1, the increase will go for the right side of the back, after the first A.1 and before the second A.1 the increases are for the right sleeve. After the second A.1 and before the 3rd A.1 the increases are for the front piece. After the 3rd A.1 and before the 4th A.1 the increases are for the left sleeve. After the 4th A.1, the last increase is for the back piece. So, when you increase for the sleeves or for the body you work the increases indicated above for the body or the sleeves. Happy knitting!

29.10.2023 - 20:33

Barbara wrote:

Hello, Iam working this pattern with two strands air and my gauge is as requested. I have finished the raglan part on size XL after 38 rows, my problem is that it is 28cm instead of 33cm. Thank you

27.11.2018 - 23:38

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Barbara, for raglan sweater it is very important to have the proper gauge for not only the stitchcount, but also for the rows as well. If you knit to few rows the shoulder / yoke will be too short. You can compensate for this, if, at regular intrewalls insert a round without increases at the yoke. I hope this helps. Happy Knitting!

28.11.2018 - 03:45

country flag Anne Olsen wrote:

Jeg forstår ikke hvor ofte jeg skal øke. Hver 2. omg. 4 ganger (jeg skal strikke L), men bare 1. gang den 4. omg. og igjen 4. ganger på hver 6. omg. Skal jeg da etter hver bare øke hver 2. og 6. når jeg har økt den 4. omg. én gang?

20.03.2017 - 21:18

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anne. Först öker du i hver 2. omg 4 ganger (paa bolen) og först naar du er faerdig gaar du videre med at öke i hver 4. omg (1 gang) og til sidst i hver 6. omg (4 ganger). Husk at samtidig öker du ogsaa paa ermerne de antal gange som din str siger.

21.03.2017 - 14:49

country flag Marianne wrote:

Mijn vraag lijkt niet geplaatst te zijn, ik probeer het nog eens. In het gedeelte " lijf" moet een markeerder geplaatst worden in de averechte steek. Moet deze steek over het hele deel vanaf de oksel tot de onderkant averecht gebreid blijven worden? Zodat een soort averechte "naad" ontstaat? Of moet deze, nadat de markeerder is geplaatst, in het gerstekorrelpatroon worden meegebreid?

21.10.2016 - 13:27

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi. Jawel :) Zie mijn antwoord hieronder.

21.10.2016 - 15:05

country flag Marianne wrote:

Ik begrijp dat ik een markeerder moet plaatsen bovenaan de zijkant, in de oksel, in een averechte steek. Maar moet ik die averechte steek blijven breien in de volgende toeren? Ofwel: ontstaat er een soort zijnaad met een averechte steek? Of wordt het in de volgende toeren gewoon meegenomen in de gerstekorrel?

21.10.2016 - 12:51

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Marianne. Je breit deze st steeds av - je krijgt dan een "lijn" in de zijkanten. Je breit de st NIET in gerstekorrel

21.10.2016 - 15:04

Shilpa wrote:

Thanks for your speedy reply! Just to clarify, when you say 'at the same time', doesn't that mean some of the increase rounds will have 12 increases? Or do the sleeve increases start after the all the body increases are complete? And, if there are 8/increase row as you've mentioned, doesn't that mean the stitch count for the sleeves is too low? Thanks!

23.06.2016 - 00:22

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Shilpa, all raglan inc are done when working yoke, but you will not inc on every inc round on all pieces, ie in larger size, you will inc on first round: 2 sts on each sleeve only (= every round = 4 sts inc), then on next round, you will inc 2 sts in all pieces (= every other round in body and every round in sleeve = 8 sts inc), repeat these 2 rounds a total of 3 times = you have inc 6 times every round on sleeves and 3 times every other round on body. ie you will inc sometimes only on sleeve (= + 4 sts inc on round), only on body (= + 4 sts inc on round) and on each pieces (= +8 sts inc on round). Happy knitting!

23.06.2016 - 08:55

Shilpa wrote:

Hello! I'm knitting the XXXL with 10ply on 8.0mm and am confused by the increases. Increases are by 4 stitches only (NOT 8), the difference is where these increases go, correct? This creates 47st per sleeve (38 from sleeve increases and 9 from 2xA1 with k in between), but then the A1 section creates a straight stripe for a long portion, unlike the picture. I've been increasing 8/round, which seems to create more shoulder space, and matches the picture, but doesn't add up. Help, please!

22.06.2016 - 14:52

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Shilpa, you inc for raglan either 4 sts (when inc only in sleeve or only in body) or 8 sts (when inc both in body and sleeve), ie in larger size, you will inc 8 times every other round, 3 times every 4th round and 2 times every 6th round, and at the same time, you inc for sleeve 6 times every round, 9 times every other round and 4 times every round. Increase are made before A.1 (when inc at beg of piece) or after A.1 (when inc at the end of piece). Happy knitting!

22.06.2016 - 15:00

country flag Elisabeth wrote:

Merci infiniment de votre patience et de vos conseils. Cette fois, j'ai compris ! Bonne journée.

11.05.2016 - 15:55

country flag Elisabeth wrote:

Bonjour, Je tricote la taille XXL. Les manches se situeront autour de la maille endroit entre les deux A1, non ? Je me rapproche du cas désespéré :-)

11.05.2016 - 14:12

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Elisabeth, la m end tricotée au tout 1er tour, entre chaque A.1 correspond effectivement aux manches. En taille XXL, tricotez 5 fois: 1 tour avec 8 augm = 1 avant + 1 après chaque A.1 (= augm manches, dos et devant) et 1 tour avec 4 augm = 1 m après le A.1 de chaque manche + 1 m avant le A.1 de chaque manche) - Au 6ème tour, pas d'augm. Au 7ème tour, augmentez 8 m (= manches, dos et devant) et ainsi de suite. Bon tricot!

11.05.2016 - 15:49

country flag Elisabeth wrote:

Bonjour, Une toute dernière question, svp : au premier tour, je commence par une augmentation avant le premier marqueur, si j'ai bien compris ? Merci encore de votre patience. Bien cordialement.

11.05.2016 - 10:27

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Elisabeth, les augmentations se font après le marqueur (le marqueur doit être et rester après A.1) et après le marqueur (le marqueur doit être et rester avant A.1) quand on augmente 2 m au total dans chaque pièce. Ainsi, vous augmentez 2 m entre chaque motif de A.1 (soit pour les manches, soit pour le dos/le devant) - notez bien les augmentations à faire pour votre taille, vous n'augmenterez pas pour chaque pièce à chaque fois. Indiquez moi la taille que vous réalisez pour plus de détail. Bon tricot!

11.05.2016 - 11:51