DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 60.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

A Patch of Comfort

Knitted DROPS blanket with squares in garter st, star pattern, English rib, stripes, waffle pattern and bamboo pattern in ”Nepal"

DROPS 157-21
DROPS design: Pattern no ne-160
Yarn group C or A + A
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Measurements:
Width: 88 cm Length: 154 cm
Materials:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
350 g colour no 0206, light beige
300 g colour no 0100, off white
300 g colour no 0500, light grey
300 g colour no 0300, beige

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES SIZE 6 mm - or size needed to get 15 sts x 29 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.
Pattern = width 10 cm: Star pattern: 17 sts, English rib: 12 sts, Stripes: 15 sts, Waffle pattern: 12 sts, Bamboo pattern: 16 sts.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 60.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
SQUARE COLOURS:
Square 1 (garter st): 1 beige, 1 light beige, 1 light grey, 3 off white.
Square 2 (star pattern): 1 beige, 1 light beige, 2 light grey.
Square 3 (English rib): 2 beige, 1 light beige, 1 light grey, 1 off white.
Square 4 (stripes): 1 beige, 2 light beige, 1 light grey, 1 off white.
Square 5 (waffle pattern): 1 beige, 1 light beige, 1 light grey, 1 off white.
Square 6 (bamboo): 1 beige, 1 light beige, 1 light grey, 1 off white.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Diagram shows all rows seen from RS. See diagram A.2 for assembly of squares.

PATTERN TIP:
Diagrams A.1 does not fit vertically when repeated but eyelet rows are continued diagonally upwards as before.

SQUARE ASSEMBLY:
Number indicate which Pattern square is used, letters indicate pattern colour:
A = beige
B = light beige
C = light grey
D = off white
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BLANKET:
Work every square separately and sew tog when finished. Work every square back and forth on needle. Work different number of squares with different number of colours for each square – see SQUARE COLOURS above = 28 squares in total. 1 square measures approx. 22 x 22 cm.

SQUARE 1 (GARTER ST):
Cast on 33 sts on needle size 6 mm. Work in GARTER ST - see explanation above. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Cast off when piece measures approx. 22 cm.

SQUARE 2 (STAR PATTERN):
Cast on 33 sts on needle size 6 mm. K 3 rows. K 1 row AT THE SAME TIME inc 4 sts evenly = 37 sts.
Then work STAR PATTERN as follows:
Row 1 (= RS): K 1 row.
Row 2 (= WS): K 1, * P 3 tog without lifting them off the needle, 1 YO, P 3 tog in same 3 sts and drop them off the needle, K 1 * repeat from *-* the entire row.
Row 3 (= RS): K 1 row.
Row 4 (= WS): K 3, * P 3 tog without lifting them off the needle, 1 YO, P 3 tog in same 3 sts and drop them off the needle, K 1 *, repeat from *-* until 2 sts remain, K 2.
Repeat rows 1 to 4. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 20½ cm, K 1 row AT THE SAME TIME dec 4 sts evenly = 33 sts. K 3 rows and cast off.

SQUARE 3 (ENGLISH RIB):
Cast on 33 sts on needle size 6 mm. K 3 rows. K 1 row AT THE SAME TIME dec 6 sts evenly = 27 sts.
Then work ENGLISH RIB as follows:
Row 1: K 2, * K 1, 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P *, repeat from *-* until 3 sts remain, finish with K 3.
Row 2: K 2, * 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P, K YO and slipped st tog *, repeat from *-* until 3 sts remain, finish with 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P, K 2.
Row 3: K 2, * K YO and slipped st tog, 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P *, repeat from *-* until 4 sts remain, K YO and slipped st tog, K 2.
Repeat 2nd and 3rd row upwards. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 20 cm – adjust to finish after 2nd row and work next row as follows: K 2, * K YO and slipped st tog, slip 1 st as if to P *, repeat from *-* until 4 sts remain, K YO and slipped st tog, K 2. K 1 row AT THE SAME TIME inc 6 sts evenly = 33 sts. K 3 rows and cast off.

SQUARE 4 (STRIPES):
Cast on 33 sts on needle size 6 mm. K 3 rows. K 1 row AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 st = 34 sts. Work 2 sts in GARTER ST – see explanation above, pattern according to diagram A.1 (1st row = RS) over the next 30 sts, finish with 2 sts in garter st – read PATTERN TIP. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 20½ cm, K 1 row AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st = 33 sts. K 3 rows and cast off.

SQUARE 5 (WAFFLE PATTERN):
Cast on 33 sts on needle size 6 mm. K 3 rows. K 1 row AT THE SAME TIME dec 7 sts evenly = 26 sts. K 1 row. Then work WAFFLE PATTERN as follows:
Row 1 (WS): K from WS.
Row 2 (RS): K 2, * K 1 in st from previous row and then drop st off left needle, K 1 *, repeat from *-* until 2 sts remain on needle, K 2.
Row 3 (WS): K 2, * K 1, lift loop around st and work this K tog with st on needle *, repeat from *-* until 2 sts remain on needle, K 2.
Row 4 (RS): K 2, * K 1, K 1 in st from previous row and then drop st off left needle *, repeat from *-* until 2 sts remain on row, K 2.
Row 5 (WS): K 2, * lift loop around the st and K this st tog with st on needle, K 1*, repeat from *-* until 2 sts remain on row, K 2.
Repeat 2nd-5th row upwards. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 20 cm – adjust so that next row is row no. 3 – work next row as explained but P st inside st in garter in stead of K. K 1 row AT THE SAME TIME inc 7 sts evenly = 33 sts, K 3 rows, cast off.

SQUARE 6 (BAMBOO PATTERN):
Cast on 33 sts on needle size 6 mm. K 3 rows. K 1 row AT THE SAME TIME inc 3 sts evenly = 36 sts.
Then work BAMBOO PATTERN as follows:
Row 1 (= RS): K 1, * 1 YO, K 2, pass YO over 2 K sts *, repeat from *-*, K 1.
Row 2 (= WS): K 1, P until 1 st remains on row, finish with K 1.
Repeat rows 1 and 2. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 20½ cm, K 1 row AT THE SAME TIME dec 3 sts evenly = 33 sts. K 3 rows and cast off.

ASSEMBLY:
Fasten the strands on every square. Sew tog all squares with light beige as shown in diagram A.2 - Read SQUARE ASSEMBLY above. Sew tog edge to edge in outer loops of edge sts to avoid a chunky seam.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 03.11.2014
under SQUARE 5 - WAFFLE PATTERN (a star (*)was missing in row 4):

Row 4 (RS): K 2, * K 1, K 1 in st from previous row and then drop st off left needle *, repeat from *-* until 2 sts remain on row, K 2.
Updated online: 21.01.2015
under SQUARE 2 (STAR PATTERN):
Row 4 (= WS): K 3, * P 3 tog without lifting them off the needle, 1 YO, P 3 tog in same 3 sts and drop them off the needle, K 1 *, repeat from *-* until 2 sts remain, K 2.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = K from WS
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = knitting direction
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS 157-21

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Comments / Questions (80)

country flag Louisa wrote:

Hallo! Folgt die Anordnung der Muster einer bestimmten Regelmäßigkeit? Ich würde die Decke gerne breiter machen (also die Anzahl der Quadrate erhöhen) bin mir aber unsicher, wie. Lieben Dank!

19.03.2024 - 14:55

country flag Wiola wrote:

Np: 5A (jeden mały kwadrat) i 4B (drugi mały kwadrat). Ja zawsze robię na około, to będzie pierwszy zszywany projekt :) i zastanawiam się czy jak kończę np 5A, to zamykam oczka czy może jak już będzie odpowiednia długość, ściągam taki niezamknięty z drutów, łącze z pętelkami z 4B i dopiero jak nałożę znów pętelki z 5A i 4B (naprzemian) na drut to wtedy zamykam?

06.02.2024 - 00:02

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Wiolu, te kwadraty zszywamy razem. Zobacz instrukcje video na dole wzoru, tam znajdziesz filmy jak zszywać robótkę. Pozdrawiamy!

06.02.2024 - 08:04

country flag Wiola wrote:

Hej! Małe kwadraty zamykamy czy ściągamy niezamknięte i takie łączymy ze sobą?

05.02.2024 - 12:26

DROPS Design answered:

O jakie małe kwadraty chodzi?

05.02.2024 - 15:27

country flag Britt wrote:

Jeg fant min egen metode for å klare å strikke vaffel. Når jeg strikker i maske fra forrige rad, henter jeg opp tråden/løkken med en gang og setter den på pinnen. Da slipoer man å hente opp feil tråd på neste omg som jeg gjorde hundrevis av ganger før jeg endret metoden. Da er det bare å strikke den sammen med rett. Lett som bare det.

16.07.2023 - 16:14

country flag Henrietta Popplewell wrote:

I am knitting a patch of comfort blanket and struggling with the stripes pattern and diagram. Please can you let me have the pattern in writing. Thank you

24.01.2023 - 18:49

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Popplewell , we only have diagrams to this pattern, but there is a video to the diagram A.1 that could help you understanding how to work it. Happy knitting!

25.01.2023 - 11:43

country flag Lia Breddels wrote:

Vierkant 5. Volgens mij klopt de beschrijving niet. Naald 4, na 'linkernaald afglijden' hoort NIET 1r maar *

04.11.2022 - 10:49

country flag Liina Kaev wrote:

Tere!\r\nVäike apsakas: 1 ruut… loo 33 mitte 22 silma!\r\nTänud ja tervitused!\r\nLiina

16.10.2022 - 19:34

country flag Linda Visagie wrote:

I don't understand square 4 stripes. It says work 2 st in garter st, what is the next 30 st before I end with 2 garter stitches

08.11.2021 - 15:40

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Linda, after the 2 edge stitch knitted with garter stitch, you should knit pattern according to diagram A.1 (1st row = RS) over the next 30 sts. Happy Stitching!

09.11.2021 - 07:50

country flag Solange wrote:

Bonsoir J’ai réalisé ce modèle en 2 couleurs mais je l’ai faite aux dimensions suivantes : 5 carreaux sur 6 carreaux de 22cm chacun, me conseillez de la doubler? Cela lui donnerait-elle plus de tenu? merci

04.07.2021 - 01:32

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Solange, c'est une question de choix personnel, en fonction de l'utilisation prévue je suppose. N'hésitez pas à demander conseil à votre magasin si besoin - ils pourront vous aider, même par mail ou téléphone. Bon tricot!

05.07.2021 - 07:56

country flag Lise St-cyr wrote:

Je ne comprend pas le petit rond noir dans le diagramme A1 puisqu’elle tricote à la suisse pourriez+vous me donner l’explication par écrit. svp. merci. lise

23.06.2021 - 05:28

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme St-cyr, le petit rond noir dans le diagramme est une maille tricotée à l'endroit sur l'envers. Suivez simplement le diagramme (cf cette leçon si besoin), lorsque vous le répétez en hauteur, veillez à bien continuer les diagonales - la vidéo vous aidera, regardez la position du fil sur les aiguilles et non sur les mains, la technique est la même. Bon tricot!

23.06.2021 - 08:16