DROPS Big Merino
DROPS Big Merino
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 42.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Shelter

Knitted DROPS poncho in false English rib, worked top down in ”Big Merino”. Size S-XXXL.

DROPS 156-31
DROPS design: Pattern no mb-017
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S/M – L/XL – XXL/XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BIG MERINO from Garnstudio
600-650-700 g colour no 02, grey

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 and 80 cm) SIZE 5.5 mm - or size needed to get 16 sts x 20 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Big Merino
DROPS Big Merino
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 42.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Diagrams show all rows seen from RS.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next round work YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead front) to avoid holes.
NOTE! Work the inc sts in pattern A.1/A.2. On first inc work the new sts as last st in pattern A.1 (i.e. on next round after round with inc, K YOs twisted. After the next 2 rounds with inc, P YOs twisted).

DECREASE TIP:
Dec inside 1 edge st in garter st.
Dec before 1 edge st as follows: K 2 tog.
Dec after 1 edge st as follows: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
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PONCHO:
Work top down on circular needle. First work a neck edge back and forth, then work poncho in the round on circular needle, then continue back and forth on front and back piece.

Cast on 96-102-108 sts on circular needle size 5.5 mm with Big Merino. Work in GARTER ST back and forth - see explanation above - for 7 cm. Then work in the round. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. Work 1 round in stocking st. On next round work as follows from the back: A.1 (= 3 sts) 6-7-7 times in width, insert 1st marker in last st, A.2 (= 11 sts), insert 2nd marker in the middle st (= middle of shoulder), work last st in A.1, insert 3rd marker in this st, A.1 12-13-14 times in width, insert 4th marker in last st, A.2, insert 5th marker in the middle st (= middle of shoulder), work last st in A.1, insert 6th marker in this st, A.1 6-6-7 times in width. Continue like this, AT THE SAME TIME on next round beg inc: Work until 1st marker, 1 YO, work until 2nd marker, 1 YO on each side of this st, work until 3rd marker, work st with marker, 1 YO, work until 4th marker, 1 YO, work until 5th marker, 1 YO on each side of this st, work until 6th marker and work this st, 1 YO, work the rest of round = 104-110-116 sts. Work the inc sts in pattern A.1/A.2 - READ INCREASE TIP. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!

Inc as follows before 1st and 4th marker and after 3rd and 6th marker (= 4 inc): Repeat inc every other round 12-18-21 more times, and every 4th round 11 times in all sizes.

Inc on each side of 2nd and 5th marker as follows (= 4 inc): Repeat inc every other round 16 more times.

When inc are done, there are 260-290-306 sts on round. When piece measures 39-43-47 cm, work as follows from beg of round: Work the first 62-71-74 sts (= back piece), cast off the next 5 sts, work the next 125-140-148 sts (= front piece), cast off the next 5 sts, work the remaining 63-69-74 sts (= back piece). Then finish front and back piece back and forth separately.

FRONT PIECE:
There are now 125-140-148 sts for front piece. Continue back and forth with pattern over front piece as before, AT THE SAME TIME work 1 edge st in garter st in each side. On next row from RS beg dec in each side of piece - READ DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec on every row from RS 13 more times = 97-112-120 sts. Piece measures 53-57-61 cm - adjust so that next row is 2nd, 4th or 6th row in diagram. Cast off sts with K over K and P over P. NOTE! Cast off YOs with P. Cut and fasten the yarn.

BACK PIECE:
Work as front piece.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew tog edge in garter st in the back of neck. Sew neatly tog st by st to get a nice seam. Cut the yarn and fasten.

Diagram

symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P
symbols = K tog YO and K st from RS, P tog YO and P st from WS.
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (36)

country flag Martina wrote:

Guten Morgen, vielen Dank für die rasche Antwort und das Video. Das hilft. Wünsche dem gesamten Team einen schönen Tag.

20.09.2023 - 09:51

country flag Martina wrote:

Hallo, es wäre wirklich hilfreich, ein Diagramm zu erstellen, aus dem eindeutig ersichtlich ist, wo die Marker sitzen und wie genau die Zunahmen in die Muster "integriert" werden sollen. Ich habe die Beschreibung auch nach mehrmaligem Lesen nicht verstanden. Die bereits vorhandenen Fragen zeigen mir, dass ich nicht die einzige bin. Auch die vorhandenen Erklärungen helfen mir nicht weiter... Danke und viele Grüße, Martina

19.09.2023 - 19:16

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Martina, die Markierungen sollen Sie jeweils in die beschriebenen Maschen einsetzen: die 1. Mark am Ende Rückenteil, die 2. Mark in de Mitte A.2, die 3. Mark am Anfang Vorderteil, die 4. Mark am Ende Vorderteil, die 5. Mark in der Mitte A.2 und die 6. Mark am Anfang Vorderteil. Dann nehmen Sie wie unter ZUNAHMETIPP vor 1. + 4. Mark und nach 3. + 6. Markierung und gleichzeitig nehmen Sie beidseitig von der 2. und der 5. Markierung. Dieses Video zeigt, mit man mit 1 Umschlag zunimmt, und wie die Maschen nach und nach im Patentmuster gestrickt werden. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

20.09.2023 - 07:33

country flag Gudrun Winter wrote:

Hallo, ist es richtig, dass nach den Zunahmen oben auf der Schulter (insgesamt 17x) das Patentmuster rechts und links der mittleren Masche nur eine linke Masche hat? Ansonsten müsste ich ja 18 mal zunehmen, richtig?

17.09.2021 - 14:47

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Winter, ja stimmt, es sind nur 1 linke Masche beidseitig von der mittleren Maschen in A.2 (= rechte Masche). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

20.09.2021 - 10:20

country flag Marion wrote:

Nach der Halsblende soll man ja den Poncho zunächst in Runden stricken. Unter "Diagramm" stehen jedoch für die mit x gekennzeichnete Masche Angaben für Hin- und Rückreihen. Wie sticke ich diese x-Masche aber nun in Runden?

17.02.2021 - 18:32

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Marion, wenn Sie das Diagram in Runden stricken, stricken Sie immer Hinreihen, dh diese Maschen mit dem x stricken Sie immer links wenn Sie in Runden stricken - wenn Sie dann in Reihen stricken werden, stricken Sie diese Maschen rechts bei den Rückreihen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

18.02.2021 - 09:04

country flag Josianne wrote:

Guten Tag, Ich habe die Zunahmen vor der 1. + 4. und nach der 3. + 6. Markierung paralell zu den Zunahmen vor und nach der 2. + 5. Markierung gemacht und bin so statt auf 190 Machen auf ca 100 Maschen mehr gekommen. Muss ich zuerst die 18 + 11 x vor der 1.+3. und nach der 4. + 6. Markierung je eine Masche zunehmen und erst dann mit den Zunahmen vor und nach der 2. +. 5. Markierung (16 mal)? Mit freundlichen Grüssen

04.02.2021 - 21:00

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Josiane, die Zunahmen werden gleichezetig gestrickt, dh Sie sollen zuest 8 Maschen in jede 2. Rd zunehmen (= vor 1.+4. Mark. + nach 3. und 6. Mark und gleichzeitig beidseitig vom 2. + 5. Mark), insgesamt 16 Mal, dann wird es nicht mehr bei dem 2. + 5. Mark zugenommen und nur noch 2 x in jeder 2. Rd + 11 Mal in jeder 4. Rd vor 1.+4. und nach 3. + 6. Mark zugenommen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

05.02.2021 - 08:27

country flag Vibeke Ahlmann Jensen wrote:

Efter at have foretaget de første udtagninger og sat mærketråde, skal jeg til at tage de generelle udtagninger først, efter mærke 1-4 og 3-6 på hver anden omgang 18 g. og derefter på hver 4 omgang 11 gange. næste afsnit begynder med udtagninger efter mærke 2 og 5 hver anden omgang 16 gange. Skal jeg skifte mellem første og andet afsnit, så der er udtagning på hver omgang 16 gange. hvor afsnit 2 afsluttes og så gøre færdig efter første afsnit.

21.01.2021 - 13:23

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Vibeke, du strikker alle 8 udtagninger på hver 2. omgang 16 gange, så 2 udtagninger mere ved 4 af mærkerne hver 2.omgang og sidt på hver 4.omgang 11 gange. God fornøjelse!

27.01.2021 - 14:42

country flag Barbara wrote:

Guten Tag, nun bin ich etwas verwirrt „Zunahmen in Muster einarbeiten“! Bedeutet dies, sobald 5 Maschen bei den Zunahmen sind, im Muster 2 Links - 1 Rechts - 2 Links Stricken? Aus dem Bild geht es nicht hervor. Ansonsten würden ja bei der Achsel breite Bahnen min Links- Maschen entstehen! Lieben Dank für eine kurze Hilfe.

03.07.2020 - 20:26

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Barbara, bei der Runde nach den Zunahmen stricken Sie die Zunahmen wie im Muster dh wie die vorrige bzw vorrige Masche im Muster, sollte es eine Patentmasche, stricken Sie sie recht, sonnst stricken Sie die Zunahmen link damit das Muster immer so wie beim A.1 bleibt (1 Patentmasche mit 2 linke Maschen). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

06.07.2020 - 07:57

country flag Jackie wrote:

Thank you so much for the clarification and quick response!

22.10.2019 - 00:20

country flag Jackie wrote:

CONT...any straight rows after the increases until it measures 39cm). Could there be an error in the number of repeats given for each increase: (sm size) set-up increases (3 rows); inc2-12 repeats every other round (24 rows); inc3-11 repeats every 4th rnd (44 rows); inc4-16 repeats every other rnd (32 rows). In the inc3 section (11 rep/4th round), only 2-5 repeats (12 rows) would work depending on # of straight rows after increases. Please advise on increases to achieve intended pattern shape.

19.10.2019 - 17:34

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jackie, in size S/M you will increase before 1st/4th marker + after 3rd/6th marker a total of 13 times every other round (= 26 rounds) + 11 times every 4th round (= 44 rounds) = 26+44= 70 rounds - at the same time, increase on each side of 2nd/5th marker 17 times in total in every other round (= 34 rounds), but these 34 rounds are not coming extra, they are the same as the first 34 rounds where you increase on other markers. Make sure to check your tension in pattern to recalculate the increases and make them a different way if required so that you get the correct length. Happy knitting!

21.10.2019 - 10:09

country flag Jackie wrote:

Hi! I am starting the Shelter poncho and am recalculating the pattern for my yarn/gauge and a size. In recalculating your pattern, it seems the measurements given in the diagram do not add up to the number of rows given in the written instructions. Both the diagram and instructions shows 39cm after the collar to the the end of the section in the round. With a gauge of 20rows/10cm, this would be 78 rows. The written instructions show 103 rows through the increase rows (not including...CONTINUED

19.10.2019 - 17:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jackie, the tension is given in stocking stitch while the poncho is then worked in English rib (with P2 between each stitch in English rib), the number of rows in pattern will be different than in stocking stitch. You can make a swatch to recalculate the number of rows/height required fro your tension. Happy knitting!

21.10.2019 - 10:05