DROPS Angora-Tweed
DROPS Angora-Tweed
70% Wool, 30% Angora,
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Silke-Tweed
DROPS Silke-Tweed
52% Silk, 48% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Pelliza
DROPS Pelliza
100% Polyamide
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale

DROPS 72-7

DROPS Cardigan in Angora-Tweed, Silke-Tweed and Pelliza or Cotton MerinKnitted cardigan in Angora-Tweed, Silke-Tweed and Pelliza or Cotton Merino, BabyMerino and Kid Silk. Knitted scarf with English rib in Angora-Tweed or Cotton Merino.o, BabyMerino and Kid Silk. Scarf in Angora-Tweed or Cotton Merino.

DROPS 72-7
JACKET:
Sizes: S - M - L -XL
Finished measurements: 84-94-106-116 cm

Materials: DROPS ANGORA-TWEED from Garnstudio
350-350-400-400 g. col. no. 15, light blue.
and use: DROPS SILKE-TWEED from Garnstudio
50-50-50-50 g. col. no. 08, beige.
50-50-50-50 g. col. no. 17, natural white.
and use: DROPS PELLIZA (disc.)
50-50-50-50 g. col. no. 12, natural white.

Or use:
DROPS Cotton Merino from Garnstudio
450-500-500-550 g. col. no. 23, lavender
and use: DROPS Baby Merino from Garnstudio
50-50-100-100 g. col. no.23, light beige
50-50-100-100 g. col. no. 02, off white
and use: DROPS Kid-Silk from Garnstudio
25-25-25-25 g. col. no. 11, off white

7-7-8-8 DROPS Wood buttons, nr 503.

DROPS 3.5 mm and 4 mm circular and double-pointed needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.
DROPS 3.5 mm double-pointed needles for button bands, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.
Gauge: 21 sts x 28 rows on larger needles in Angora-Tweed or Cotton Merino in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm


SCARF:
Sizes: approx. 17 x 160 cm

Materials: DROPS ANGORA-TWEED from Garnstudio
150 g. col. no. 06, brown.

Or use:
DROPS COTTON MERINO from Garnstudio
200 g. col. no. 12, brown.

DROPS 6 mm needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.
Gauge: 14 sts x 36 rows in English rib st = 10 x 10 cm .

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Angora-Tweed
DROPS Angora-Tweed
70% Wool, 30% Angora,
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Silke-Tweed
DROPS Silke-Tweed
52% Silk, 48% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Pelliza
DROPS Pelliza
100% Polyamide
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
JACKET:
Pattern: See chart. The pattern is seen from the right side and is knit entirely in stockinette st. Arrows indicate the starting points for the different sizes.

Rib-1: * K 1, P 1 *, repeat from * - *.

Rib-2: * K 1, P 2 *, repeat from * - *.

Button band: After the rib put 7 button band sts at each side on a smaller double-pointed needle, then knit these at the same time with Body but in Rib-1, keeping the outer edge st in garter st. Knit the button bands with light blue over all sts.
Note: To avoid gaps between button band and body twist the yarn between the last st of button band with the first st of body.

Buttonhole: Make buttonholes on right button band (1 buttonhole = bind off the 5th st from center front and yo over the bound off st on the next row). Make buttonholes when the piece measures:
Size S: 1, 10, 19, 28, 37 and 45 cm
.
Size M: 2, 11, 20, 29, 38 and 47 cm
Size L: 1, 9, 17, 25, 33, 41 and 49 cm
Size XL: 2, 12, 19, 27, 35, 43 and 51 cm
---------------------------------------------------------------

Body: Cast on 191-213-235-257 sts on smaller circular needles with light blue / lavender. Knit Rib-1 for 6 cm , keeping 1 st at each edge in garter st (make buttonholes on right button band - see instructions above). Change to larger circular needles and stockinette st, but knit the 7 button band sts per instructions above - and make buttonholes along right button band per instructions above.
When the piece measures 25-27-29-31 cm knit Pattern 1 - start at appropriate arrow on the chart (continue to knit the button band in rib). After Pattern 1 knit the rest with light blue in stockinette st. At the same time when the piece measures 31-32-33-34 cm knit the next row as follows: 49-54-59-64 sts for the right front, bind off 5-7-7-9 sts for armhole, knit 83-91-103-111 sts for the back, bind off 5-7-7-9 sts for armhole, knit 49-54-59-64 sts for the left front. Knit each piece separately.

Left front: = 49-54-59-64 sts. Bind off for armhole at the side every other row: 3 sts 0-0-1-1 time, 2 sts 0-1-2-3 times and 1 st 3-4-4-5 times = 46-48-48-50 sts. When the piece measures 46-48-50-52 cm put 13-14-13-14 sts at the center front edge on a st holder for the neck. Then bind off at neck edge every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 4 times = 22-23-24-25 sts remain on shoulder. Bind off the remaining sts when the piece measures 52-54-56-58 cm.

Right front: = 49-54-59-64 sts. Knit the same as left front, reversing all shaping. Make buttonholes along button bands.

Back: = 83-91-103-111 sts. Bind off for armhole at both sides as on front = 77-79-81-83 sts remain on needles. When the piece measures 50-52-54-56 cm bind off the center 29 sts for the neck. Bind off 2 sts at each neck edge on the next row = 22-23-24-25 sts remain on each shoulder. Bind off the remaining sts when the piece measures 52-54-56-58 cm.

Sleeve: Cast on 66-72-72-78 sts on smaller double-pointed needles with light blue / lavender; join and place a marker at the join. Knit Rib-2 until the piece measures 3 cm then dec every other P 2 to P 1 = 55-60-60-65 sts. When the piece measures 6 cm dec the remaining P 2 to P 1 = 44-48-48-52 sts (you are now knitting Rib-2).

Read the entire next section before knitting:
Continue in Rib-1. When the piece measures 9 cm change to larger double-pointed needles and stockinette st. After the rib inc 1 st each side of marker every 6-6-5-5 rows 18-18-20-20 times = 80-84-88-92 sts. When the piece measures 45-45-44-43 cm begin Pattern 1 (center the pattern across the sleeve).
When the piece measures 51-49-48-46 cm bind off 3 sts each side of marker, and knit back and forth on the needles. Bind off for sleeve cap at each side every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 4-4-4-3 times, 1 st 1-3-4-9 times, then 2 sts at each side until the piece measures 57-57-58-58 cm and then 3 sts each side 1 time. The piece measures approx. 58-58-59-59 cm. Bind off the remaining sts.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams.
Collar: Pick up approx. 105 to 115 sts (divisible by 2 + 1) around the neck (incl. sts on st holder) on smaller circular needles with light blue / lavender. Knit rib keeping 1 st at each edge in garter st throughout. When the collar measures 6 cm make a buttonhole over the others on button band. When the collar measures 7 cm change to 2 strands Pelliza or 2 strands Kid-Silk and knit 4 rows garter st, then bind off. Sew in sleeves and sew on buttons.



SCARF:

English rib:
Row 1 (right side): K 1 (edge st knit in garter st throughout), * K 1, yo, sl 1 st as if to P *, repeat from * - * , finish with K 1 and 1 garter st edge st.
Row 2: K 1 (garter st edge st), * yo, sl 1 as if to P, K tog the next st and the yo from previous row *, repeat from * - *, finish with yo, sl 1 as if to P, and 1 garter st edge st.
Row 3: K 1 (garter st edge st), * K tog the next st and the yo from previous row, yo, sl 1 as if to P *, repeat from * - *, finish with K tog the next st and the yo from previous row, 1 garter st edge st.
Repeat rows 2-3.

Scarf: Cast on 25 sts with 2 strands Angora-Tweed / 2 strands Cotton Merino. Change to 1 strand and knit English rib - see instructions above - for 160 cm. Bind off loosely with k over k and p over p, with 2 strands.

Diagram

symbols = light blue Angora-Tweed or lavender Cotton Merino
symbols = natural white Silke-Tweed or off white Baby Merino
symbols = beige Silke-Tweed or light beige Baby Merino
symbols = natural white Pelliza or off white Kid Silk
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (11)

country flag Nolinia wrote:

Bonjour, Je voudrais savoir si on peut tricoter ce modèle avec la laine Drops Baby Merino ? Et si oui, quelle quantité de laine faut il pour la taille S et pour la taille M ?

31.07.2023 - 21:05

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nolinia, pas vraiment car on tricote ici en Karisma Angora Tweed/Cotton Merino, laine du groupe de fils B, seule l'étoile se tricote en Baby Merino. Retrouvez ici tous les modèles du groupe A que vous pouvez tricoter en Baby Merino seule, ou avec une autre laine (utilisez le convertisseur si besoin). Bon tricot!

01.08.2023 - 09:05

country flag Birgit Peters wrote:

Ich möchte diese Anleitung gerne mit DROPS Merino Extra Fine nachstricken, komme mit dem Garn (obwohl aus derselben Garngruppe) bei der Maschenprobe aber mit Nadel Nr. 4,5 auf 22 M x 28 R. Ich bräuchte die Jacke eigentlich in Größe M. Soll ich nun nach Größe L stricken, weil es dann etwas kleiner wird, oder macht die eine Masche keinen so großen Unterschied? Ich wäre dankbar für einen Tipp, wie ich mit diesem Problem umgehen sollte.

19.12.2022 - 17:44

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Peters, versuchen Sie Ihre Maschenprobe zu waschen und schauen Sie ob, sie dann stimmt - es kann helfen; Merino Extra Fine strikt man am besten etwas fester (siehe Hinweise unter die Farbkarte). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

20.12.2022 - 07:49

country flag Lolo Sörelius wrote:

Vill sticka denna tröja , men garnet har utgått. Vilka garner kan jag ta istället?

05.01.2022 - 14:50

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lolo. Du kan använda: DROPS Cotton Merino från Garnstudio 450-500-500-550 g nr 23, lavendel och använd: DROPS Baby Merino från Garnstudio 50-50-100-100 g nr 23, ljus beige 50-50-100-100 g nr 02, natur och använd: DROPS Kid-Silk från Garnstudio 25-25-25-25 g nr 11, natur Mvh DROPS Design

11.01.2022 - 13:08

country flag Pheth wrote:

Can this be done on sports weight yarn?

25.09.2018 - 23:03

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Pteh, this pattern is worked with a tension of 21 sts x 28 rows with larger needles in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm in Angora-Tweed or Cotton Merino, ie yarn group B. Read more about alternatives here. Happy knitting!

26.09.2018 - 07:58

country flag Millie wrote:

If you are going to put a pattern out which is written in American English, why do you not use inches for the measurements? I was interested in this pattern for about 5 minutes or until looking at schematic, when I discovered cms instead of inches. Will keep looking and hopefully will find one which is written for Americans.

03.04.2018 - 01:33

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Millie, all measurements are written in inches in the US-English pattern - measurements in chart are always in cm - you can convert into inches here. Happy knitting!

03.04.2018 - 10:23

country flag Marie wrote:

Au sujet des bordures devant, pour éviter les trous, que signifie \"tourner la dernière m de la bordure devant avec la 1ère m du devant\"? Faut-il inverser les deux m? Faut-il le faire à chaque rang? Merci

23.03.2018 - 15:08

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marie, il faut en fait croiser les fils à la transition entre la bordure devant et le jacquard lorsque l'on tricote l'empiècement, pour éviter les trous car la bordure des devants se tricote en bleu clair, le texte a été modifié, merci. Bon tricot!

26.03.2018 - 10:26

country flag Marie wrote:

Au sujet des bordures devant, pour éviter les trous, que signifie \"tourner la dernière m de la bordure devant avec la 1ère m du devant\"? Faut-il inverser les deux m? Faut-il le faire à chaque rang? Merci

21.03.2018 - 22:05

Jennie Codognotto wrote:

I believe this pattern has a major flaw. The number of stiches is not correct for a repeating pattern of 22 stitches. For XL size Cast on 257, less 2X7 stitches for button hole band leaves 243 stitches to work the pattern on. The pattern requires a multiple of 22 for it to line up.. 243 /22 is 22 and one stitch which puts the pattern out if you are following from the chart. All sizes have the same problem - the cast on should be 190, 212, 235 and 257 respectively

04.02.2016 - 05:03

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Codognotto, in size XL, you work the 257 sts as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, 7 sts in rib (front band), repeat M.1 in width starting at the appropriate arrow in diagram until 8 sts remain (= work the last 11 sts in M.1, repeat M.1 a total of 10 times and work the first 10 sts in M.1), finish row with 7 sts in rib, 1 edge st in garter st. Happy knitting!

04.02.2016 - 10:22

country flag Anny Bakker wrote:

Mooi patroon, maar met tevens een beschrijving voor breien op 2 pennen maakt het een stuk eenvoudiger. Nu is het soms puzzelen cq improviseren. Dit geldt overigens voor meer patronen.

05.06.2013 - 20:06

country flag DROPS / Lena wrote:

The tric is just to hold the threads tight/loose enough, and keep a very even gauge. This is something that gets better the more you practise, but also steaming and blocking afterwards helps a lot.

07.01.2008 - 01:54