DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 2.90 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Lazy Afternoon Jacket

Knitted DROPS jacket with raglan and false English rib, worked top down in 2 strands ”Brushed Alpaca Silk”. Size S-XXXL

DROPS 157-19
DROPS design: Pattern no as-021
Yarn group C+C or E
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
200-225-250-275-300-325 g colour no 02, light grey

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 9 mm - or size needed to get 11 sts x 15 rows in stocking st or 11 sts X 22 rows in false English rib = 10 x 10 cm with 2 strands.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON, NO 522: 6-6-7-7-8-8 pieces.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 2.90 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on circular needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

GARTER ST (in the round on double pointed needles):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

FALSE ENGLISH RIB (back and forth on circular needle):
ROW 1: * K1 st, 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P *, repeat from *-* until 1 st remains, finish with K1 st.
ROW 2: K1 st, * P tog YO and slipped st from previous row, K1 st *, repeat from *-*.
Repeat 1st and 2nd row upwards.

RAGLAN:
Inc on each side of every marker as follows:
Work until 1 st remains before marker, 1 YO, work 2 sts in stocking st and 1 YO. Repeat at the remaining markers on round. On next round work YOs twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front) to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeve):
Dec as follows BEFORE st with marker in: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec as follows AFTER st with marker in: K 2 tog.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = K tog third and fourth st from edge and make 1 YO.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures (measured from cast-on edge):
SIZE S: 1, 9, 17, 25, 33 and 41 cm.
SIZE M: 1, 9, 17, 25, 33 and 41 cm.
SIZE L: 1, 8, 15, 22, 29, 36 and 43 cm
SIZE XL: 1, 8, 15, 22, 29, 36 and 43 cm
SIZE XXL: 1, 8, 15, 22, 29, 36, 43 and 50 cm.
SIZE XXXL: 1, 8, 15, 22, 29, 36, 43 and 50 cm.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth, top down on circular needle/double pointed needles. Pick up sts around the neck and work an edge in garter st at the end.

YOKE:
Cast on 65-65-65-69-69-69 sts with 2 strands Brushed Alpaca Silk on circular needle size 9 mm. Work 1 ridge in GARTER ST – see explanation above, AT THE SAME TIME on last row in ridge, inc 10-10-10-12-12-12 sts evenly = 75-75-75-81-81-81 sts. Then work as follows from RS: 5 band sts in garter st, 11-11-11-13-13-13 sts in FALSE ENGLISH RIB - see explanation above (= left front piece), 1 st in stocking st, insert 1st marker here, 9 sts in stocking st, insert 2nd marker here, 1 st in stocking st (= sleeve), 21-21-21-23-23-23 sts in false English rib (= back piece), 1 st in stocking st, insert 3rd marker here, 9 sts in stocking st, insert 4th marker here, 1 st in stocking st (= sleeve), 11-11-11-13-13-13 sts in false English rib, 5 band sts in garter st (= right front piece). Remember BUTTONHOLES - see explanation above. Continue like this AT THE SAME TIME on next row from RS beg inc for RAGLAN – see explanation above! Repeat inc every row from RS 5-7-10-13-18-22 more times, and every other row from RS 5-5-4-3-1-0 times = 163-179-195-217-241-265 sts. NOTE: Work the new inc sts on front and back piece in false English rib and work the new inc sts on sleeves in stocking st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Piece measures 22-23-24-25-26-27 cm from shoulder. Now work as follows from WS: Work the first 27-29-31-35-38-41 sts (= front piece), slip the next 33-37-41-45-51-57 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 7 new sts under sleeve, work the next 43-47-51-57-63-69 sts (= back piece), slip the next 33-37-41-45-51-57 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 7 new sts under sleeve, work the remaining 27-29-31-35-38-41 sts (= front piece).

BODY:
There are now 111-119-127-141-153-165 sts for body. Continue false English rib as before. P the middle of the 7 new sts under each sleeve, work the remaining new sts in false English rib. Continue like this until piece measures 35-36-37-38-39-40 cm from the new sts under sleeve. Now work 3 ridges before loosely casting off.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 33-37-41-45-51-57 sts back on double pointed needles. Work 1 row in stocking st over all sts. Then cast on 7 sts at the end of row = 40-44-48-52-58-64 sts. Insert a marker in the middle of the new sts under the sleeve. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. Then work the sleeve in stocking st in the round. When piece measures 4 cm, beg dec for sleeve – READ DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every 5½-5-4-3½-2½-2½ cm 6-7-9-10-13-15 more times = 26-28-28-30-30-32 sts. When piece measures 41-41-41-40-40-40 cm, work 3 ridges in GARTER ST in the round on double pointed needles - see explanation above! Loosely cast off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the holes under the sleeves. Sew the buttons on to the left band.

NECK EDGE:
Pick up 1 st in every st in ridge in the neck with 2 strands Brushed Alpaca Silk = 65-65-65-69-69-69 sts. Work 2 ridges and loosely cast off.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 18.09.2018
FALSE ENGLISH RIB (back and forth on circular needle):
ROW 1: * K1 st, 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P *, repeat from *-* until 1 st remains, finish with K1 st.
ROW 2: K1 st, * P tog YO and slipped st from previous row, K1 st *, repeat from *-*.
Repeat 1st and 2nd row upwards.

Diagram

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS 157-19

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Comments / Questions (33)

country flag Bailey wrote:

Hello! In the body section after casting on for underarms, it says “P in the middle of the new 7sts under each sleeve” - does this mean to purl one stitch, and use false English rib on the three stitches before and after? Or are more than one “middle” stitches meant to be purled?

23.02.2023 - 18:57

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Bailey, only one stitch will be purled: the one in the middle of the new 7 stitches cast on mid under sleeve. The remaining stitches on each side of this one will be worked in English rib as the other ones. Happy knitting!

24.02.2023 - 10:00

country flag Ann wrote:

Är det de udda varven (1, 3, 5 osv.) eller de jämna varven (2,4, 6 osv.) som utgör rätsida på oket? Med vänlig hälsning Ann

25.11.2022 - 13:40

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Ann, du strikker 1.pind i falsk patent fra retsiden. Men du vælger naturligvis den side du synes er pænest :)

30.11.2022 - 14:00

country flag Ann wrote:

Är det de udda varven (1, 3, 5 osv.) eller de jämna varven (2,4, 6 osv.) som utgör rätsida på oket? Med vänlig hälsning Ann

24.11.2022 - 15:22

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Ann. Etter at du har lagt opp og strikket 2 pinner retstrikk, starter du fra retten med patentstrikk. Så da blir 1. pinne retstrik og 1. pinne med patentstrikk fra retten (1,3.5 osv). mvh DROPS Design

28.11.2022 - 13:39

country flag Ann wrote:

Är det första varvet som man stickar rätsida eller avig sida ? Jag trodde att det första varvet alltid brukade vara avigsidan och att den räta sidan är på varv nr, 2, 4 , 6 o.s.v. I det här mönstret verkar det dock som om varv 1, 3, 5 o.s.v. är rätsidan för det står att man ska börja med patent på varv 3 och patenten börjar med ett varv på rätsidan. Är det korrekt uppfattat att de udda varven (dvs 1, 3, 5 osv) är på rätsidan i det här mönstret? / Ann

16.11.2022 - 19:06

country flag Ann wrote:

Hej. På det tredje varvet står det att man ska börja med falsk patent och att det då är rätsidan man börjar med den falska patenten på. Dock är ju varv nummer tre ett varv på avigsidan eftersom varv nummer ett efter uppläggning alltid är på avigsidan. Om man vill börja med falsk patent på rätsidan behöver man ju starta på varv nummer två eller varv nummer fyra. Ska man använda det som vanligtvis brukar betraktas som avigsida, dvs udda varv, som rätsida i det här mönstret?

29.10.2022 - 10:01

country flag Sue Phillips wrote:

Hi again, After the first increase row there are not enough stitches in the following row to make a full repeat of the false english rib pattern, I have tried purling the additional sts on the wrong side and knitting them on the right side until there are enough to do a full repeat of the pattern but it doesn't look right. What should I be doing with these stitches?

26.11.2020 - 00:33

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Phillips, work the new stitches in false english rib pattern depending on how the next stitch/the previous stitch has to be worked; if the next stitch should be worked (P tog yarn over and slipped st) you have to knit the new stitch, if the next stitch should be knitted, you should slip the new stitch and make a yarn over. And continue to work the sts as before, so that the stitchches worked (slip 1, yo) then (Ptog slipped st and YO) should be still lined up. Happy knitting!

26.11.2020 - 10:22

country flag Sue wrote:

Hi, for the raglan increases, the pattern says, repeat increases in every row 5 times from RS then every other row 5 times from RS. I'm confused about increasing in every row as this would mean increasing in the right and wrong size

23.11.2020 - 22:35

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Sue, repeat increases in every row from RS means every other row (every 2 rows) and repeat increases every other row from RS means every 4 rows. In any case stitches are increased on the RS. Happy knitting!

24.11.2020 - 09:23

country flag Eva wrote:

Hei. Strikker str XXL og der skal det økes for raglan hver pinne 18 ggr og annen hver pinne 1 gang. Når jeg har gjort det skal arbeide måle 26 cm fra skulderen. Skal dette måles på forstykket eller på ermet. Mitt forstykke er kun 20 cm, men ermedelen (glattstrikk) er 26 ca. Ellers lurer jeg på hvordan man måler strikkefasthet i høyden på denne patenten.

07.08.2020 - 20:41

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Eva, da skal du måle fra skulderen og ned. Du kan prøve den på, eller lægge den på en anden trøje med raglan som du ved passer, så du er sikker på at den bliver stor nok :)

19.08.2020 - 11:48

country flag Eva wrote:

Ser nå at autokorrekturen gjorde forrige spørsmål litt vanskelig å forstå. Prøver igjen. Jeg kan ikke forstå hvordan 1. pinne med patent kan være rettpinne, for da må jo høyre forstykke være det første jeg strikker på pinnen og venstre til slutt. Ikke slik som det står i oppskriften hvor man skal ha venstre først og så høyre til slutt på pinnen. Jeg misforstår sikkert. Og, er det patenten under rettelser man skal bruke? Er da 1. eller 2. pinne rettpinnen? Mvh Eva

24.04.2020 - 10:24

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Eva, når du strikker ovenfra og ned, starter du midt foran, strikker fra retsiden over venstre forstykke (når man har jakken på), venstre ærme, rygstykke, højre ærme og sidst højre forstykke. Vend og strik den anden vej fra vrangen. God fornøjelse!

28.04.2020 - 15:28

country flag Eva wrote:

Hei. Jeg kan ikke forstå at 1. pinne med patentstrikk skal være resten, for da får jeg det ikke til å stemme med at jeg først strikker venstre forstykket på den rymunden og høyre til slutt. I mitt hode blir det motsatt. Takk for svar.

24.04.2020 - 00:29