DROPS Big Merino
DROPS Big Merino
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 52.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Saralyn

Knitted DROPS jacket worked in a circle in garter st with lace pattern in ”Big Merino”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 156-37
DROPS design: Pattern no mb-016
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S/M - L – XL/XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BIG MERINO from Garnstudio
750-800-950-1050 g colour no 10, amethyst

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm, or 17 sts x 33 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4 mm - for button loop.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTONS NO 522: 1 piece for all sizes

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Big Merino
DROPS Big Merino
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 52.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (in the round on circular needle):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1-A.3. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making a YO. On next row work YO twisted (i.e. work in the back loop of st instead of front) to avoid holes.
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BODY:
Worked in the round in a circle from mid back.
Cast on 7 sts with Big Merino and divide them on 4 double pointed needles size 5 mm. K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME K 2 sts in every st = 14 sts. Insert 7 markers in the piece, 2 sts apart. 1st marker = at beg of round = back of neck. P 1 round. On next round K while AT THE SAME TIME working 2 sts in every other st = 21 sts. P 1 round. On next round K with 2 sts in every 3rd st = 28 sts. P 1 round. Then work according to A.1, work 1 repetition over the 4 sts between every marker. When A.1 has been worked, continue according to A.2. After A.2 continue pattern in A.2 the same way with 7 inc on every other round, work the inc sts in pattern. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm when needed. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 17-18-19-20 cm from centre, work 3 ridges in GARTER ST – see explanation above - over all sts. NOTE! Continue inc every other round, inc with a YO after every marker (= 7 inc).
Work next round as follows: Work 25-27-29-31 sts, cast off 32-34-37-40 sts (= armhole), work until 57-61-66-71 sts remain on needle, cast off 32-34-37-40 sts (= armhole) and work 25-27-29-31 sts. P 1 round - AT THE SAME TIME cast on 32-34-37-40 new sts over each armhole, same no of sts that were cast off for armhole. Work 4 ridges. Continue with A.2 and inc for 4-5-7-9 cm, work 5 ridges with inc, work A.2 with inc for 13-16-18-20 cm, finish with 5 ridges with inc – piece measures approx. 45-50-55-60 cm from centre and outwards. LOOSELY cast off.

SLEEVE:
The sleeve is worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 44-46-48-50 sts (incl 1 edge st in each side) on needle size 5 mm with Big Merino, work 3 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above (= 1st row = WS). Work next row as follows from RS: 1 edge st in garter st, A.3A (= 2 sts) A.3B until 3 sts remain, finish with A.3C (= 2 sts) and 1 edge st in garter st. When piece measures 17 cm, work 3 ridges. Then work in stocking st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side – AT THE SAME TIME on next row from RS inc 1 st in each side – read INCREASE TIP, repeat inc every 3½-3-2½-2 cm 9-10-12-15 times in total = 62-66-72-80 sts. When piece measures 52 cm in all sizes, cast off for sleeve cap at beg of every row in each side as follows: 5 sts 1 time, then 2-2-3-3 sts in each side until piece measures approx. 60 cm - NOTE! For size XL/XXL cast off 3 sts only 6 times in each side, then 2 sts. Cast off the remaining sts.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the sleeve seams inside 1 edge st. Sew in the sleeves so that middle of sleeve cap is placed where armholes are the closest tog (i.e where 1st st was dec for first armhole and where last st was dec on second armhole) and sleeve seams are placed where the armholes are the furthest apart (i.e. in opposite side - see chart).

BUTTON AND LOOP:
Lay the jacket down as shown in chart with RS up and sleeves straight out, sew button in the left side under sleeve from RS. Crochet 1 buttonhole loop on hook size 4 mm in cast-off edge under sleeve in the right side as follows: 1 dc in cast-off edge on jacket, 5 ch, skip approx. 1 cm and fasten with 1 dc in cast-off edge.

Diagram

symbols = K
symbols = P
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = centre
symbols = fasten button
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (23)

country flag Pavlína wrote:

Dobrý den, sháním návod na takovýto svetr z šestiúhelníku, ale háčkovaný. Jednoduše dl. sloupky. Měli byste?? Děkuji

20.02.2019 - 20:17

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Pavlina, please look for crocheted circle jacket on the website. Happy crocheting!

25.02.2020 - 07:52

country flag Pavlína wrote:

Dobrý den, sháním návod na takovýto svetr z šestiúhelníku, ale háčkovaný. Jednoduše dl. sloupky. Měli byste?? Děkuji

20.02.2019 - 20:15

country flag Bernadette wrote:

Also, can I knit the sleeves on normal pointed needles? Why does the pattern ask for circular needles but knit back and forth? Could this be worsening the distortion? Thanks for your help again!

24.09.2017 - 23:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Bernadette, the sleeves are knitted with circulars to have the number of stitches comfortably fit onto the needle, but, if you prefer, you can knit them on straights. However, I do not think that the type of the needle you are knitting with affects the distortion. Happy Knitting!

25.09.2017 - 00:20

country flag Bernadette wrote:

I've ripped out the whole sleeve and started again with particular attention to tension. The stitches are neither increased not decreased but the distortion is still there. Please can I check that I've interpreted the pattern correctly? A3 is worked as follows: 1 edge stitch,knit 2 together (k2t) yarn over (YO), k2t, YO etc ending in k2t, YO, edge stitch. Knit row. 1 edge stitch, knit 1, k2t, YO, k2t, YO etc, ending in YO knit 1, edge stitch. Is that right?

24.09.2017 - 23:01

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Bernadette, sorry to hear you are still having troubles with the sleeve. You read the pattern correctly, however the second row is a purl row (from the wrong side, the diagram shows every row from the right side). And please do try to block the piece out (wet and pin into shape, then let it dry). I hope this helps. Happy Knitting!

25.09.2017 - 00:17

country flag Jana wrote:

Prosím o radu - nedaří se mi při nahození 7 ok na ponožkové jehlice vytvořit úplet bez díry uprostřed. Přitom u všech návodů modelů pletených touto technikou vidím fotky zad bez sebemenší dírky a beze stopy sešívání... Jak na to? Neexistuje nějaký videonávod?

24.09.2017 - 19:42

DROPS Design answered:

Milá Jano, zkuste nahození pomocí "kouzelného kroužku", stahovací smyčky, jejíž pomocí si otvor můžete stáhnout podle potřeby. Tato technika je snadná a hojně využívaná při háčkování, stejně dobře ji ale můžeme použít i u pletených modelů - jako zrovna u tohoto svetru. Podívejte: Tuto video-ukázku - spolu s dalšími pomocnými ukázkami - najdete v záložce "Video" vedle hlavní fotky modelu. Hodně zdaru! Hana

24.09.2017 - 20:54

country flag Bernadette wrote:

Please help! I have completed the main body of the garment, which is fine. However the sleeves are completely out of shape - it looks as though there is a consistent increase on one side and a decrease on the other! I don't think it is the tension. Rather than a rectangle, it looks like a parallelogram! The pattern looks right and I have definitely not added or dropped any stitches. When I fold in two to stitch together, the seams don't match.

16.09.2017 - 19:54

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Bernadette, the sleeves should be more or less symmetric, when folded. Granted that the ajour pattern has a tendency to slightly distort the shape, but if you look at the dieagram, there is equal number of decreases and increases, the number of stitches do not chnage. Try to wet-block the piece and pull it into shape, while it is wet. I hope this helps. Happy Knitting!

17.09.2017 - 23:46

country flag Bernadette Buckley wrote:

After casting off and then on again to make the armholes, do I YO after every 7 markers as previously? The pattern doesn't say to do this. Also when casting off, the pattern says that 57 stitches should remain "on the needle". Is this a mistake? (Circular needles are being used here. Does it mean ' 57 stitches should remain AT THE END OF THE ROW? The wording is very unclear!

01.07.2017 - 20:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Buckley, correct, 57 sts should remain before end of round, then continue pattern as before with YOs to inc circle. Happy knitting!

03.07.2017 - 09:28

country flag Anne wrote:

Chart A2 has YO at the beginning and end of each repeat. This is 2YO next to each other. Working the following row, you lose one of the YO and end up not increasing and one big hole. Could you please explain how to work this to stay in pattern and keep the increase?

27.10.2015 - 17:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Anne, diagram A.2 starts with K1 on every round (first st in A.2 = white square in the column at the right side). Read more about diagram here. Happy knitting!

28.10.2015 - 11:19

country flag Kerstin wrote:

Hallo liebes Drops-Team, jedesmal bewundere ich Eure schönen Kreisjacken, sowie auch dieses Model. Gestrickt habe ich noch keine, weil ich schon beim ermitteln der Grösse scheitere. Die angegebenen Masse sagen mir gar nichts!!?? Wie ermittele ich meine Grösse? Vielen Dank

19.08.2015 - 14:21

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Kerstin, dann wählen Sie am besten die Grösse, die Sie üblicherweise tragen. Die Zahlen sind die cm-Angaben an der Stelle, an der sie eingezeichnet sind. Vielleicht kann Ihnen jemand beim messen helfen.

19.11.2015 - 17:42

country flag Elena wrote:

Grazie mille, ci riprovo!

29.12.2014 - 16:51