DROPS Cotton Merino
DROPS Cotton Merino
50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 3.55 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Come Here Cardigan

Knitted DROPS jacket with raglan and moss st, worked top down in ”Cotton Merino”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 157-35
DROPS design: Pattern no cm-011
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS COTTON MERINO from Garnstudio
400-450-500-550-600-650 g colour no 18, medium grey

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 or 60 cm) SIZE 3.5 mm - for edges in garter st.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON NO 522: 3 pieces for all sizes

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Cotton Merino
DROPS Cotton Merino
50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 3.55 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

PATTERN (double moss/seed st vertically):
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows in pattern seen from RS.

RAGLAN:
All inc are done from RS.
Inc 2 sts on each side of every raglan as follows (= 16 sts inc):
Inc as follows before 4 sts in stockinette st and marker: K 2 in the next 2 sts (i.e. work in front and back loop of st) = 2 sts inc.
Inc as follows after marker and 2 sts in stockinette st: K 2 in the next 2 sts (i.e. work in front and back loop of st) = 2 sts inc.

Inc 1 st on each side of every raglan as follows (= 8 sts inc):
Inc as follows before 2 sts in stockinette st and marker: 1 YO, 2 sts in stockinette st.
Inc after marker as follows: 2 sts in stockinette st, 1 YO.
P YOs twisted on next row to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec as follows before marker: Work until 3 sts remain before marker, K 2 tog, K 1.
Dec as follows after marker: K 1, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = K tog third and fourth st from edge and make 1 YO.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures (measured from cast-on edge):
SIZE S: 2, 11 and 20 cm / 3/4", 4½", 8"
SIZE M: 2, 11 and 20 cm / 3/4", 4½", 8"
SIZE L: 2, 11 and 20 cm / 3/4", 4½", 8"
SIZE XL: 2, 12 and 21 cm / 3/4", 4 3/4", 8 1/4"
SIZE XXL: 2, 12 and 21 cm / 3/4", 4 3/4", 8 1/4"
SIZE XXXL: 2, 12 and 21 cm / 3/4", 4 3/4", 8 1/4"
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JACKET:
Work jacket back and forth, top down on circular needle. Work sleeve in the round on circular needle/double pointed needles.

YOKE:
Cast on 114-118-122-126-130-134 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Cotton Merino. Work 3 ridges in GARTER ST – see explanation above, AT THE SAME TIME on row from RS in 2nd ridge inc 9-14-18-22-29-35 sts evenly. Repeat inc in 3rd ridge = 132-146-158-170-188-204 sts. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. Then work an elevation in back of neck in stockinette st as follows, beg from RS: Work 86-97-106-115-128-140 sts, turn, work 40-48-54-60-68-76 sts, turn, work 45-53-59-65-73-81 sts, turn. Continue back and forth over 5 sts more on every turn until 60-68-74-80-88-96 sts are worked, turn and work the rest of row. Work 1 row in stockinette st from WS. Now work as follows: A.1 over the first 20-22-26-28-32-36 sts, 5-6-5-6-6-6 sts in stockinette st, insert a marker, 22-23-23-23-24-24 sts in stockinette st, insert a marker, 38-44-50-56-64-72 sts in stockinette st, insert a marker, 22-23-23-23-24-24 sts in stockinette st, insert a marker, 5-6-5-6-6-6 sts in stockinette st, A.1 over the remaining 20-22-26-28-32-36 sts. Remember BUTTONHOLES - see explanation above. REMEMBER THE TENSION/GAUGE! Continue with A.1 and stockinette st, AT THE SAME TIME on next row from RS beg inc for RAGLAN – see explanation above!
Inc 2 sts on each side of every marker on every row from RS 1-1-1-2-2-3 times in total. Then inc 1 st on each side of every marker on every row from RS 18-19-21-21-23-23 times in total, and on every other row from RS 1 time in all sizes = 300-322-350-378-412-444 sts. Piece measures 20-21-22-23-24-25 cm / 8''-8¼''-8¾''-9''-9½''-9¾'' from shoulder.
Now work as follows: Work the first 46-50-55-60-66-72 sts, slip the next 64-67-71-75-80-84 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 12 new sts under left sleeve (insert a marker in the middle of these new sts), work the next 80-88-98-108-120-132 sts, slip the next 64-67-71-75-80-84 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 12 new sts under right sleeve (insert a marker in the middle of these new sts), work the remaining 46-50-55-60-66-72 sts on needle. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE.

BODY:
There are now 92-100-110-120-132-144 sts for back piece and 52-56-61-66-72-78 sts for each front piece. Continue with stockinette st and A.1 as before. NOTE: Work the new sts under each sleeve in stockinette st. When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', inc 2 sts in each side as follows: Work until 1 st before marker, 1 YO, 2 sts in stockinette st, 1 YO, continue as before over back piece until 1 st remains before next marker, 1 YO, 2 sts in stockinette st, 1 YO, work the rest of row. NOTE: On next row work YOs twisted to avoid holes. Repeat inc every 2½-2½-3-3-3-3½ cm / 7/8"-7/8"-3"-3"-3"-1 1/4" 6-6-5-5-5-4 more times = 224-240-256-276-300-320 sts. When all inc are done and piece measures 26-27-28-29-30-31 cm / 10¼''-10 5/8''-11''-11 3/8''-11¾''-12¼'', continue with A.1 over all sts. When piece measures 40-41-42-43-44-45 cm / 15¾''-16 1/8''-16½''-17''-17¼''-17¾'', cast/bind off with K over K and P over P.

SLEEVE:
Work sleeve in stockinette st in the round on circular needle/double pointed needles. There are 64-67-71-75-80-84 sts for each sleeve. Slip sts from stitch holder back on circular needle/double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 and cast on 12 new sts under sleeve = 76-79-83-87-92-96 sts. Work in stockinette st in the round, AT THE SAME TIME insert a marker in the middle of the new sts under sleeve (i.e. 6 sts on each side of marker). NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', dec 1 st on each side of marker - READ DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec approx. every 2-2-2-1½-1½-1½ cm / 3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-½"-½"-½" 11-11-12-13-15-15 more times = 52-55-57-59-60-64 sts. When sleeve measures 32-32-32-31-31-30 cm / 12½"-12½"-12½"-12 1/4"-12 1/4"-11 3/4", dec 0-1-1-1-0-0 sts = 52-54-56-58-60-64 sts. Continue with A.1 over all sts. Cast/bind off when sleeve measures 37-37-37-36-36-35 cm / 14½"-14½"-14½"-14 1/4"-14 1/4"-13 3/4".
Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the holes under the sleeves. Sew buttons on left band approx. 2 cm / 3/4'' in from edge.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 18.08.2016
YOKE:...Continue back and forth over 5 sts more on every turn until 60-68-74-80-88-96 sts are worked, turn and work the rest of row. Work 1 row in stocking st from WS...
BODY:...Work until 1 st before marker, 1 YO, 2 sts in stocking st, 1 YO, continue as before over back piece until 1 st remains before next marker, 1 YO, 2 sts in stocking st, 1 YO, work the rest of row. NOTE: On next row work YOs twisted to avoid holes. Repeat inc every 2½-2½-3-3-3-3½ cm 6-6-5-5-5-4 more times...
Updated online: 11.03.2019
Correction - YOKE: Then work an elevation in back of neck in stockinette st as follows, beg from RS: Work 86-97-106-115-128-140 sts

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (32)

country flag Annami wrote:

Mikä on neuletiheys? Se puuttuu ohjeen alusta.

29.05.2022 - 11:40

DROPS Design answered:

Hei, neuletiheys on lisätty ohjeeseen (21 silmukkaa ja 28 kerrosta sileää neuletta puikoilla nro 4 = 10 x 10 cm).

31.05.2022 - 17:07

country flag Barbara wrote:

Buongiorno, sto facendo questo modello e non riesco a capire negli aumenti del raglan prima di mettere in sospeso le maglie per la manica: ".. , e a ferri alterni dal dritto del lavoro 1 volta in tutte le taglie. " dopo le 21 volte (per taglia L) devo fare un dritto senza aumenti e poi un dritto con gli aumenti e basta. grazie per l'attenzione

29.03.2021 - 11:51

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Barbara, può saltare un ferro dal diritto del lavoro e aumentare su quello successivo. Buon lavoro!

30.03.2021 - 00:09

country flag Tuulikki Koskelo wrote:

Miten raglanlisäys tehdään? Montako kertaa? Monenko kerroksen välein!

31.01.2020 - 19:28

DROPS Design answered:

Hei, löydät ohjeet raglanlisäysten tekoon ohjeen alussa. Lisäykset tehdään näin: Lisää jokaisen merkin molemmin puolin jokaisella oikean puolen krs:lla 1-1-1-2-2-3 x 2 s. Lisää sitten jokaisen merkin molemmin puolin jokaisella oikean puolen krs:lla 18-19-21-21-23-23 x 1 s ja vielä joka 2. oikean puolen krs:lla kaikissa koissa 1 x 1 s. Eli aluksi lisäykset tehdään joka toinen kerros ja myöhemmin vielä kerran joka 4. kerros.

10.02.2020 - 17:55

country flag Stephanie wrote:

There is a mistake in the pattern. In body, after "NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE." it says: "Repeat inc every 2½-2½-3-3-3-3½ cm / 7/8"-7/8"-3"-3"-3"-1 1/4" 6-6-5-5-5-4 more times = 224-240-256-276-300-320 sts." Notice how the measurements in cm do not equal the measurements in inches. 3 cm is not 3 inches, it's 1.18".

19.12.2019 - 17:07

country flag Anna wrote:

Hej Jag brukar följa den engelska beskrivningen men undrar om inte detta är lite tokigt; Repeat inc every 2½-2½-3-3-3-3½ cm / 7/8"-7/8"-3"-3"-3"-1 1/4" 6-6-5-5-5-4 more times Ska jag sticka 3 cm eller 3" som det står i den engelska översättningen? Ni översätter ju 3½ cm som 1 1/4".

19.12.2019 - 09:20

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anna, Upprepa ökningen med 2½-2½-3-3-3-3½ cm mellanrum 6-6-5-5-5-4 ggr till = 224-240-256-276-300-320 m. Vi skall titta på UK :)

15.01.2020 - 12:20

country flag Teresa wrote:

Buongiorno, non capisco perché sia stato necessario aggiungere questo passaggio nello sprone: e a f alterni dal diritto del lavoro 1 volta in tutte le taglie = 300-322-350-378-412-444 m. Non era sufficiente aggiungere una volta al totale degli aumenti in raglan (Poi aumentare 1 m a ogni lato del segnapunti su ogni f dal diritto del lavoro 18-19-21-21-23-23 volte in totale) portandoli a: 19-20-22-22-24-24, oppure mi sfugge qualcosa? Grazie!

21.03.2019 - 18:22

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Teresa. I 18-19-21-21-23-23 aumenti vengono fatti ad ogni ferro sul diritto del lavoro; l’ultimo aumento viene fatto al secondo ferro sul diritto del lavoro. Quindi deve lavorare un ferro sul diritto senza aumentare e al ferro successivo sul diritto del lavoro, aumenta l’ultima volta. Buon lavoro!

21.03.2019 - 21:10

country flag Maria Teresa wrote:

Thank you, but in reply to Your answer: "Dear Maria Teresa, you first work 117 sts (= 85 sts (= to middle of piece) + 32 sts) = 53 sts remain unworked at the end of this row. Then turn and work 60 sts (= 32 sts (to middle of piece) + 28 sts) 53 sts remain now at the end of row." : 85 sts of the first half less 28 to The 60 sts makes 57 sts left, not 53.

01.03.2019 - 16:34

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Maria Teresa, oops you are right I miscalculate, I'll forward your question to our Design Team. Thanks in advance for your patience.

04.03.2019 - 07:31

country flag Maria Teresa wrote:

Hello, I have started this beautiful cardigan but I have a doubt: I am doing size XL so at the beginning, after the garter stitches rows I have done the elevation in back of neck in stockinette. But if I count the stitches at the end there are 43 on one side and 47 on the other (117 - 60 - 65 - 70 - 75 - 80): so the elevation is not in the centre, it would have been if I had started with 115, instead of 117, (with 45 stitches eventually on both sides). I can't understand the reason. Thank you.

28.02.2019 - 16:25

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Maria Teresa, you first work 117 sts (= 85 sts (= to middle of piece) + 32 sts) = 53 sts remain unworked at the end of this row. Then turn and work 60 sts (= 32 sts (to middle of piece) + 28 sts) 53 sts remain now at the end of row. Continue working always 5 sts more on each side. Happy knitting!

01.03.2019 - 09:33

country flag Henriette wrote:

I cannot work with rondneedles so I would like to change the patterns so I can knit the front and back part seperately. If I have to knit all the way aroung I can use four needles. Are the patterns available for the traditional 2 needles or does anyone know how to change the patterns without to much hassle? Thanks Henriette

09.11.2018 - 09:31

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Henriette, you can do that, please see: HERE. Happy knitting!

09.11.2018 - 12:32

Lynn wrote:

I'm just about to start this lovely cardigan. In the very start of the pattern where it says 'Work 3 ridges in garter stitch' I take it that means 6 rows?!

13.09.2018 - 12:05

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lynn, yes that's right, to work 1 ridge you will work 2 rows with knitting stitches, to get the 3 ridges, you will work 6 rows with knitting stitches. Happy knitting!

13.09.2018 - 13:13