DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.00 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 154-29
DROPS design: Pattern no ee-496
Yarn group E
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Sizes:
UK:¾ - 5/6½ - 7½/9½
EU: 35/37 - 38/40 – 42/44
Foot length: 22-25-27 cm

Materials:
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio
100 g for all sizes in colour no 47, light beige
50 g for all sizes in 51, powder pink

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 6 mm – or size needed to get 12 dc = width 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.00 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Replace first dc at beg of every dc round/row with 1 ch. Finish every round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round.

COLOUR CHANGE:
To get a nice transition between the colour changes, work last sl st on round with the new colour as follows: Insert hook in last ch from beg of round, get the new yarn, make a YO with the new colour and pull it through st on hook.
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SOLE:
Worked in the round. Work 16-16-18 ch on hook size 6 mm with light beige.
ROUND 1: Work 1 ch (= 1st dc), work 1 dc in one loop in each of the first 15-15-17 ch, work 2 dc in one loop of last ch, then turn the piece and work in the same ch back in the other loop of st, work 2 dc in same ch (i.e. the same ch where 2 dc were worked before piece was turned), work 1 dc in each of the next 14-14-16 ch, 2 dc in last ch, finish with 1 sl st in first ch on round = 36-36-40 dc (= 18-18-20 dc on each side).
ROUND 2: Work 1 ch – read CROCHET INFO, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 14-14-16 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 14-14-16 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in last dc, finish with 1 sl st in first ch = 40-40-44 dc (includes 1 ch).
ROUND 3: Work 1 dc in first dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 14-14-16 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 14-14-16 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc = 44-44-48 dc (includes 1 ch).
ROUND 4: Work 1 dc in each of the first 2 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 14-14-16 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 6 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 14-14-16 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc = 48-48-52 dc (includes 1 ch).
ROUND 5: Work 1 dc in each of the first 3 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 14-14-16 dc AT THE SAME TIME insert 1 marker in 8th-8th-9th dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 8 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 14-14-16 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc = 52-52-56 dc (includes 1 ch). NOTE: Move the marker upwards when working. The top is fastened in the side here.

The sole is done in size 35/37 but continue in 38/40 – 42/44 as follows:

ROUND 6: Work 1 dc in each of the first 4 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 14-16 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 10 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 14-16 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 5 dc = 56-60 dc (includes 1 ch). NOTE: Continue edge in powder pink - see COLOUR CHANGE.

EDGE:
Continue in the round with powder pink.
ROUND 1: Work 1 dc in every dc in back loop of st - REMEMBER CROCHET INFO = 52-56-60 dc.
ROUND 2-7: Work 1 dc in every dc.
Fasten off.

TOP:
The top is worked as a separate part and fastened later. Now work back and forth.
Work 8-8-9 ch on hook size 6 mm with light beige - REMEMBER CROCHET INFO.
ROW 1: Work 1 dc in one loop in each of the next 6-6-7 ch, work 2 dc in one loop of next ch, then turn the piece and work in the same ch back in the other loop of st, work 2 dc in same ch (i.e. the same ch where 2 dc were worked before piece was turned), work 1 dc in each of the next 7-7-8 ch = 18-18-20 dc. Turn piece.
ROW 2: Work 1 dc in each of the next 6-6-7 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 7-7-8 dc = 20-20-22 dc. Turn piece.
ROW 3: Work 1 dc in each of the next 6-6-7 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 7-7-8 dc = 22-22-24 dc. Turn piece.
ROW 4: Work 1 dc in each of the next 6-6-7 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 6 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 7-7-8 dc = 24-24-26 dc. Turn piece.
ROW 5: Work 1 dc in each of the next 6-6-7 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 8 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 7-7-8 dc = 26-26-28 dc.

The top is done in size 35/37 but continue in 38/40 – 42/44 as follows:

ROW 6: Work 1 dc in each of the next 6-7 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 10 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 7-8 dc = 28-30 dc.

ASSEMBLY:
Work the top on to edge with light beige as follows: ch 1, 1 sl st through 1st dc on top and dc with marker on edge. Work 1 sl st in every dc through top and edge around the entire top. Then work along the edge on top as follows: * ch 1, 1 dc in next row *, repeat from *-*. Fasten off.

TASSEL:
Wind a strand of powder pink yarn around your fingers 4 times and cut the yarn. Take a new strand of powder pink, wind it twice around the top of the 4 loops and tie a knot. Cut the loops open at the bottom and trim to desired length and fasten on top op slipper.

Crochet another slipper.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 18.03.2015
under TOP and CROCHET INFO (Work 1 dc, not Work 1 ch):

CROCHET INFO.
ROW 1: Work 1 dc in one loop in each of the next 6-6-7 ch,...
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (42)

country flag Sofia Burman Rogozinska wrote:

Får inte maskorna att stämma på sulan. Om jag har 18 lm och virkar en luftmaska (=första fm) , 1 fm i kommande 17 så finns det ingen m kvar att virka 2 fm i.

30.09.2022 - 22:28

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Sofia. Jo, du hekler 18 luftmasker (husk at masken på nålen ikke skal telles), så hekler du 1 luftmaske (som erstatter 1. fastmaske). Så nå har du egentlig 19 luftmasker + masken på nålen. Så hekler du 1 fastmaske i det ene leddet i hver av de første 17 luftmaskene (husk å hoppe over luftmasken som erstattet 1. fastmaske). Du har 1 luftmaske igjen på raden. I denne luftmaskene hekler du 2 fastmasker. mvh DROPS Design

10.10.2022 - 11:15

country flag Songül wrote:

Hallo ik heb een vraag wat is een rondt dat snao ik niet. Moest ik de los ketting niet aan elkaar vast zetten zodat het een ronde word. Hopelijk antwoorden jullie .

25.09.2022 - 12:49

DROPS Design answered:

Hi, if you can write your question in English, we can try to help you :)

16.11.2022 - 13:47

country flag Elise wrote:

Volgens mij is geen moeilijk patroon maar begijp maar weinig van de uitleg. Ik ben nu eindelijk bij de bovenkant maar loop hier echt vast; Klopt het dat de 1e losse in de 8 opzetlossen zit? Zoals ik het lees bestaat de 1e toer eigenlijk uit 2 toeren? Begin ik na het keren met een losse? Haak ik na het keren alleen in de 1e lus een 2 vasten of ook in de tweede? Er wordt dus maar aan 1 zijde gemeerderd? "Haak in dezelfde l terug in de andere lus van de st" wat wordt hiermee bedoeld?

15.05.2020 - 16:45

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Elise,

Er zit inderdaad 1 keerlosse bij (is niet duidelijk aangegeven in de tekst). De eerste toer zijn geen 2 toeren, maar je haakt in beide lusjes van de opzetlossen, dus haakt a.h.w. steeds heen en weer in een u-vorm.

20.05.2020 - 09:15

country flag Myriam wrote:

Bonjour, quand on crochette des ms en rond, sa dit que la premiere ms est remplacer par une ml. Alors si le premier tour: 1 ms dans les 2 prochaine m, je fait 1 ml pour remplacer la 1ere ms et la 2e ms je la fait dans la m suivante ou je dois sauter la maille qui aurait du servir pour la 1ere ms qui a ete remplacer par la ml? Et quand on fini un rang(mc dans la 1ere ml) comment compter le total de maille? Sa dit incluant la 1ere ml mais il y a la mc dans la 1ere ml je peut pas la compter 2 fois?

06.02.2020 - 04:03

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Myriam, vous commencez le tour par 1 ml pour remplacer la 1ère ms et crochetez 1 ms dans la ms suivante (vérifiez bien votre nombre de mailles pour être sûre). cette vidéo montre comment crocheter des ms en rond. Bon crochet!

06.02.2020 - 10:41

country flag Jacqueline Brouwer wrote:

Heeft u hier ook een diagram van ,ik lees en begrijp dat beter .Mag ook van een andere slof het gaat mij om de zool .B.v.d

02.12.2019 - 15:15

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Jacqueline

Helaas is er alleen een geschreven patroon. Als je aangeeft waar je precies tegenaan loopt kunnen we je misschien beter helpen.

07.12.2019 - 10:42

country flag Laura Falk wrote:

Jeg synes min hæklefasthed ligner den som på billedet, men kan ikke få størrelsen til at passe.. str 35/37 bliver MEGET lille.. er str 6 i nål for småt til denne opskrift??

23.11.2018 - 18:14

country flag Laura wrote:

Kan man lægge en sål i, når man er færdig så det blev mere tøffel/sutsko fremfor “sokker”? Så de bliver lidt mere “stive”. Eller vil det ikke virke? (Er nybegynder)

07.11.2018 - 06:55

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Laura. Det er ikke noe i veien for at du legger en såle i når du er ferdig. Men ha det i bakhodet når du da velger størrelse, så du vet det blir plass. God fornøyelse.

07.11.2018 - 11:14

country flag Hengie Hengelmann wrote:

Bonjour j'ai tricoté la semelle en suivant scrupuleusement les explications mais j'obtiens une semelle vraiment trop petite... une idée pour m'aider ...merci

13.08.2017 - 18:58

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour, je vous conseille de faire des tours supplementaires pour obtenir les dimensions de votre taille. Essayez de faire un echantillon avant de commencer la suite des chaussons. Bon crochet!

20.08.2017 - 17:39

country flag Marylène Thibault wrote:

Comment peut-on faire des mailles en l'air dans les quatre mailles suivantes? Je ne comprends pas , quand on fait des ml on ne pique pas dans la maille du tour précédent?. Merci de me répondre Modèle drops 154-29 pour le dessus du chausson

17.03.2015 - 19:11

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Thibault, il faut effectivement bien faire des ms et non des ml au 1er tour du dessus du pied - correction faite, merci. Bon crochet!

18.03.2015 - 09:39

country flag Martine wrote:

Hei. Jeg forstår virkelig ikke hvordan sålen skal hekles. Hvordan kan man hekle 2 fm i samme lm som man heklet 2fm i før man roterte? Hva menes med 1 omg her? Jeg har sett på videoen lengre ned, men den hjalp lite. Jeg har lagt opp 16 lm 1lm, hekler mot venstre 2fm i siste lm, så forstår jeg ikke noen ting. Skal man hekle rundt i 1omg? I såfall hvor mange?

25.02.2015 - 14:33

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Martine, jå således hekler du på hver side af første lm-række:

DROPS Crochet Tutorial: How to crochet on both sides of a chain band. from Garnstudio Drops design on Vimeo.

10.08.2015 - 14:04