DROPS Lima
DROPS Lima
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Extra 0-959
DROPS design: Pattern no li-045
Yarn group B
-----------------------------------------------------------
NECK WARMER:
Size: one-size
Circumference at the top: 40 cm
Circumference at the bottom: 93 cm
Materials:
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio
150 g colour no 4377, dark purple

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4 mm - for edge.

HAT:
Size: one-size
Materials:
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio
100 g colour no 4377, dark purple

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 3.5 mm – for garter st.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Lima
DROPS Lima
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (in the round on circular needle):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.
----------------------------------------------------------
NECK WARMER:
Worked in the round on circular needle from bottom up. Cast on 196 sts on circular needle size 4 mm with Lima. Work 3 ridges in garter st - see explanation above. Then work according to A.1 (= 14 repetitions in width). Continue this pattern upwards, when A.1 has been worked, there are 84 sts on needle. Switch to a shorter circular needle when needed. Continue in garter st for 13 cm. Cast off.

CROCHET EDGE:
Work an edge around the entire neck warmer on hook size 4 mm with Lima as follows: * 1 dc, 3 ch, 1 tr in first ch, skip approx. 1½ cm *, repeat from *-*, finish with 1 sl st in first dc.

HAT:
Worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Cast on 18 sts on double pointed needles size 4 mm with Lima. Work according to diagram A.2 (= 6 repetitions in width). Switch to circular needle when needed. When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 102 sts on needle. Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm, then work in garter st over all sts until piece measures 20 cm. Cast off. Tighten tog hole at the top of hat. To shape the hat place it in water when finished and thread it over a plate. Leave to dry on plate. Repeat the process when it has been washed.

Diagram

symbols = K
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = K 2 tog
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS Extra 0-959

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (12)

country flag Marie Josée wrote:

Bonsoir ou peux ton acheter vos catalogues pour modèles super . merci cordialement Mjosée lombardi

30.09.2020 - 23:32

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marie Josée, certains de nos magasins peuvent avoir quelques uns de nos anciens catalogues en stock, n'hésitez pas à les contacter pour leur demander - nos modèles restent gratuits sur le site. Bon tricot!

01.10.2020 - 10:18

country flag Cambos wrote:

Merci pour votre répons mais en utilisant les marqueurs comme vous dites je me retrouve avec presque 120 mailles avant le point mousse , avez vous d'autres dames a qui cela arrive , merci . cordialement.

21.02.2019 - 12:16

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Cambos, vérifiez que vous avez bien 17 mailles dans chaque A.2 au dernier rang pour que les 6 motifs de 17 mailles fassent bien 102 mailles. Si vous en avez trop, vous avez probablement oublié quelques diminutions dans la 2ème moitié de A.2. Bon tricot:!

21.02.2019 - 16:24

country flag J Cambois wrote:

Bonjour je tricote un second bonnet en suivant à la lettre le motif j'ai plus de 102 mailles au final?? je ne comprends pas pourquoi, je suis obligée d'ajuster aux rangs point mousse? est ce normal?? d'avance merci...

20.02.2019 - 18:40

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Cambois, pour le bonnet, vous tricotez 6 fois le diagramme A.2 en largeur (sur 3 mailles au 1er rang), quand A.2 est terminé, vous avez 17 m dans chaque A.2 soit 17 m x 6 = 102 m. Vous pouvez mettre un marqueur entre chaque motif de A.2 à répéter, ainsi, vous pourrez plus facilement vérifier votre nombre de mailles à chaque tour. Bon tricot!

21.02.2019 - 09:55

country flag Evelyne Busteau wrote:

Bonjour je voudrais faire le modèle li-072 je voudrais savoir si le diagramme dessin se fais des deux côté aller retour ou juste aller ? Merci cdlt

19.02.2019 - 17:39

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Busteau, les diagrammes montrent tous les rangs du point fantaisie, vus sur l'endroit. Dans ce modèle, on va tricoter A.1 et A.2 sur toutes les mailles (= on les répète en largeur). Lisez les diagrammes en commençant en bas à droite et tous les tours vers la gauche (les 2 pièces se tricotent en rond). Bon tricot!

20.02.2019 - 09:00

country flag Pojo wrote:

Bonjour, Je suis intéressée par le modèle du bonnet. Cependant, je ne comprend pas cette phrase "Fermer l'ouverture du haut du bonnet en resserrant le trou". Comment doit-je procéder ? Merci d'avance pour votre retour, Cdt, Pojo

14.02.2018 - 13:45

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Pojo, le bonnet se tricote de haut en bas en montant seulement 18 m puis on va augmenter. Quand il est terminé, passez un fil dans les 18 m du rang de montage et serrez pour refermer le trou du début du bonnet. Bon tricot!

15.02.2018 - 09:59

country flag Kirsten Rovsing wrote:

Har I en rettelse til hæfte 141 nr. 4. Jeg kan ikke finde rettelsen i jeres rettelser. Det er mønster A 1. Når jeg kommer til nr. 2 mønsterpind passer det ikke

20.11.2014 - 14:00

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Kirsten. Hvis du gaar ind paa mönstret 141-4 saa er det rette diagram publiceret her

20.11.2014 - 15:21

country flag Mamen wrote:

No soy capaz de hacer la boina, no entiendo lo de montar 18 puntos cuando el diagrama A.2 lleva 17. Tampoco entiendo que significa =6repeticiones en anchura. Espero que me puedan ayudar. Gracias!un saludo!

28.02.2014 - 20:24

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Mamen! Para proximas preguntas marca la casilla de "question" en lugar de la de "comment". El diagrama se ha de leer de abajo arriba. En la primera fila de A.2 hay entonces 3 pts y como se repite 6 vcs el total de pts es 18. Los 17 pts a los que te refieres son los del final de A.2. Espero haberte ayudado.

02.03.2014 - 20:55

country flag Adrienne wrote:

Le schéma A2 devrait en fait comporter 67 tours : 44 pour les augmentations (3 tour jersey et 1 tour ajouré) et 23 pour les diminutions afin que le béret ait la bonne taille. Il faudrait donc corriger le schéma du modèle sinon il sera toujours faux.

13.11.2013 - 21:26

DROPS Design answered:

Le diagramme est juste ainsi, avec 28 rangs pour 10 cm de tension, le bonnet doit mesurer 16 cm à partir du centre + la bordure au point mousse. Bon tricot!

13.11.2013 - 21:50

country flag Adrienne wrote:

Frustrée mais ne m'avouant pas vaincue, j'ai remis l'ouvrage une 3ème fois sur le métier et j'ai trouvé l'erreur. Elle n'est pas dans ma manière de tricoter mais dans le schéma A2 ! Pendant les augmentations, il faut faire 3 tours de jersey (et pas 1) entre les rangs ajourés, ce qui donne 44 tours au lieu de 22. Les diminutions se font comme indiquées sur le schéma. Et là, oh miracle, j'obtiens enfin le même béret que sur l'image.

13.11.2013 - 20:44

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Adrienne, le diagramme A.2 comporte effectivement 45 tours (1 case = 1 m x 1 rang). Contente que vous ayez réussi le béret. Bonne continuation !

13.11.2013 - 21:17

country flag Adrienne wrote:

J'ai essayé le modèle avec du DROPS love you 3 et du Merino extra fine et à chaque fois j'obtiens un béret minuscule qui pourrait éventuellement aller à un enfant de 3 ans, malgré avoir scrupuleusement suivi le modèle. Est-ce que quelqu'un aurait réussi à le faire à la bonne taille ? car le modèle me plaît énormément et je suis frustrée de ne pas être arrivé à le faire !!!

11.11.2013 - 22:31

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Adrienne, aviez-vous bien la bonne tension de 21 m = 10 cm de large en DROPS♥YOU 3 ou en Merino ? Le bonnet est une taille unique, avec 102 m de bordure on a approximativement 49 cm qui pourront s'étirer pour un bon maintien. Bon tricot!

12.11.2013 - 08:58