DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 32.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Victoria

Knitted DROPS jumper with Norwegian pattern in ”Karisma”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS Extra 0-816
DROPS design: Pattern no U-653
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
Colour no 37, dark grey blue:
550-600-650-700-750-850 g
Colour no 01, off white:
100-100-150-150-150-150 g
Colour no 55, light beige brown:
50-50-50-50-50-50 g

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 3 mm - for rib.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 32.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams M.1 to M.3 – diagrams are worked in stocking st and show 1 repetition of pattern.
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BODY:
Worked in the round on circular needle.
Cast on 204-224-242-276-296-338 sts on circular needle size 3 mm with dark grey blue Karisma. Work rib = K 1/P 1 for 5 cm.
Switch to circular needle size 4 mm and K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 34-38-40-46-50-56 sts evenly = 170-186-202-230-246-282 sts. Insert a marker at beg of round and a marker after 85-93-101-115-123-141 sts (these marks the sides). Continue in stocking st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 10-10-11-11-12-12 cm, dec 1 st on each side of both markers. Repeat dec every 3 cm a total of 4 times = 154-170-186-214-230-266 sts. When piece measures 24-24-25-25-26-26 cm, inc 1 st on each side of both markers.
Repeat inc every 3 cm a total of 4 times = 170-186-202-230-246-282 sts. When piece measures 34-36-38-40-42-44 cm, insert 2 markers in the piece; 1 in the middle st at the front and 1 in the middle st at the back. Then work diagram M.1 – st marked with arrow in diagram should be sts with marker mid front/back - count out towards the side. Count out again when at the marker in the side so that pattern is the same on the front and on the back.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 39-40-41-42-43-44 cm, cast off 4-8-12-22-26-40 sts for armholes in each side (i.e. 2-4-6-11-13-20 sts on each side of both markers in the sides). Finish front and back piece separately, back and forth on needle.

FRONT PIECE:
= 81-85-89-93-97-101 sts. Finish diagram M.1, then work diagram M.2 and finally M.3 before continuing with light beige brown until finished measurements (st with arrow in diagram should be st with marker mid front/back – count out towards the side).
When piece measures 52-54-55-57-58-60 cm, slip the middle 15-15-17-17-19-19 sts on a stitch holder for neck and finish each shoulder separately.
Then cast off at beg of every row from neck: 2 sts 3 times and 1 st 3 times = 24-26-27-29-30-32 sts remain on shoulder.
Cast off when piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm.

BACK PIECE:
= 81-85-89-93-97-101 sts. Work as on front piece but do not cast off for neck until piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm. Now cast off the middle 31-31-33-33-35-35 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Continue to cast off 1 st on next row from neck = 24-26-27-29-30-32 sts remain on the shoulder. Cast off when piece measures approx. 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm – cast off on same row in pattern as on front piece.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles, switch to circular needle when needed.
Cast on 58-60-62-64-66-68 sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm with dark grey blue. Work rib = K 1/P 1 for 5 cm.
Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm and K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 9-9-11-11-11-13 sts evenly = 49-51-51-53-55-55 sts. Insert a marker at beg of round (= mid under sleeve) and continue in stocking st. When piece measures 7-8-11-7-6-8 cm, inc 1 st on each side of marker. Repeat inc every 3.-2½.-2.-2.-2.-1½. cm a total of 15-17-19-20-21-23 times = 79-85-89-93-97-101 sts.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 46 cm in all sizes, work diagram M.1 (st with arrow in diagram = mid on top of sleeve – count out towards the side. NOTE: Work the inc sts in pattern). After diagram M.1, continue with dark grey blue until finished measurements.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 53-52-51-49-48-45 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and broader shoulder width), finish the piece back and forth on needle from mid under sleeve. Cast on 1 new st in each side (= edge st for assembly) and work until sleeve measures 55 cm in all sizes, cast off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams and sew in sleeves (section worked back and forth at the top of sleeve should fit the cast off for armhole).

NECK:
Knit up from RS approx. 80 to 92 sts around the neck (incl sts on stitch holder at the front) on a short circular needle size 3 mm with dark grey blue. P 1 round, then K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME inc evenly to 100-104-108-112-116-120 sts. Then work rib = K 1/P 1 for approx. 7 cm, cast off with K over K and P over P. Fold the rib double towards WS and fasten it to the back of neck edge with neat little loose stitches.

Diagram

symbols = dark grey blue
symbols = off white
symbols = light beige brown
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (38)

country flag Hannah-Maria wrote:

Hello! I am really enjoying this pattern, and have just finished the body. I am aam just about to start working on the sleeves and am trying to understand the construction before I start. I’m really confused about what the pattern means when it says to work back and forth on the needle from mid under sleeve. Do I stop knitting in the round? Is this working all the stitches? I can’t seem to picture what it will look like or how that will then work with attaching it to the body…?

27.02.2024 - 01:18

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Hannah-Maria, you will now work in rows instead of in the round, starting the rows from mid under sleeve (where rounds previously started); in this video we show how to work and sew such a sleeve, hope it can help. Happy knitting!

27.02.2024 - 09:07

country flag Cornelia Becker wrote:

Hallo, habe jetzt im Muster M 1 gestrickt und bin der Meinung, daß ist nicht das Muster des abgebildeten Pullovers??

03.02.2024 - 17:21

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Becker, das Diagram M;1 stimmt so, was meinen Sie damit? Haben Sie wie in der schriftlichen Anleitung gestrickt? dh die Masche mit dem Pfeil muss die mittlere Masche beim Vorderteil sowie beim Rückenteil, dh Das Muster passt an beiden Seiten nicht. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

05.02.2024 - 08:40

country flag Cornelia Becker wrote:

Hallo, wie werden M1, M2 und M3 gelesen? Von rechts nach links rechte Maschen und die Rückreise von links nach rechts linke Maschen?

29.01.2024 - 23:56

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Becker, das ist genauso richtig. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

30.01.2024 - 08:11

country flag Nadine wrote:

Merci beaucoup c'est exactement ce qu'il me fallait

14.11.2023 - 12:20

country flag Nadine wrote:

Bonjour, on termine les derniers cm en allers et retours pour le haut de la manche qui sera ensuite assemblé à l'emmanchure (sur le dos et le devant), entre les mailles rabattues pour le dos et le devant. Auriez-vous une vidéo montrant cet assemblage des cm en allers retours sur l'emmanchure ? Merci pour votre aide

13.11.2023 - 23:07

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nadine, peut-être que cette vidéo pourra vous aider, on procède un peu différemment, mais elle montre comment passer du tricot de la manche en rond au tricot en allers et retours pour le haut de la manche puis comment l'assembler. Bon tricot!

14.11.2023 - 10:36

country flag LOL wrote:

Bonjour, Je tricoté la taille M. J'en suis à rabattre 4 mailles de chaque côté des 2 marqueurs. Ensuite il faut continuer en aller/retour le devant et le dos séparément. Avez-vous une vidéo qui montre comment procéder car jusqu'à présent je n'ai tricoté que des pulls en top-down. Quand faut-il commencer à rabattre ? Les 4 premières mailles du tour d'abord ou les 4 premières mailles du rang précédent + les 4 premières mailles du tour (4)? Merci

21.10.2023 - 13:38

country flag LOL wrote:

Bonjour, Je tricoté la taille M. J'en suis à rabattre 4 mailles de chaque côté des 2 marqueurs. Ensuite il faut continuer en aller/retour le devant et le dos séparément. Avez-vous une vidéo qui montre comment procéder car jusqu'à présent je n'ai tricoté que des pulls en top-down. Quand faut-il commencer à rabattre ? Les 4 premières mailles du tour d'abord ou les 4 premières mailles du rang précédent + les 4 premières mailles du tour (4)? Merci

21.10.2023 - 13:38

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Lol, rabattez les mailles comme vous le faites d'habitude, tricotez le dernier tour avant de rabattre jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 4 mailles avant le marqueur du début du tour, rabattez les 8 mailles suivantes, tricotez (dos) jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 4 mailles avant le 2ème marqueur, rabattez les 8 mailles suivantes, et tricotez les mailles restantes (devant). Mettez les mailles du dos en attente et tricotez les mailles du devant, en commençant sur l'envers. Bon tricot!

23.10.2023 - 09:34

country flag LOL wrote:

Bonjour, Je tricoté la taille M. J'en suis à rabattre 4 mailles de chaque côté des 2 marqueurs. Ensuite il faut continuer en aller/retour le devant et le dos séparément. Avez-vous une vidéo qui montre comment procéder? car jusqu'à présent je n'ai tricoté que des pulls en top-down. Merci

20.10.2023 - 23:27

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour lol, tricotez simplement le tour suivant en rabattant 8 mailles pour les emmanchures (soit 4 mailles de chaque côté de chaque marqueur), puis continuez le jacquard comme avant, mais vous allez maintenant tricoter le devant et le dos l'un après l'autre, en allers et retours (cf vidéo; mettez les mailles du dos en attente sur un fil ou une autre aiguille et tricotez simplement le devant comme expliqué. Bon tricot!

23.10.2023 - 09:28

country flag Anja wrote:

Wunderschöne Anleitung!Ich hätte allerdings noch eine Frage zum Vorder- und Rückteil.Ich soll ja beide Teile separat stricken. Heißt das dann,ich beginne die neue Runde,kette meine Maschen nach meiner ersten Markierung,also direkt zu Rundenbeginn für das Armloch ab, wiederhole das Abnehmen vor der zweiten Markierung, stricke dann das Vorderteil in Reihen weiter und wiederhole danach das Ganze noch einmal für das Rückenteil?Und wie stricke ich dann die Randmaschen?

31.05.2021 - 20:58

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Anja, die Runde mit Abketten für die Armlöcher könnnen Sie auch so stricken: stricken Sie die Runde bis 2 bis 20 M (siehe Größe) vor der Markierung am Ende der Runde übrig sind, die nächsten 4 bis 40 M abketten (= 2 bis 20 vor der Markierung + 2 bis 20 nach der Makierung), weiter stricken bis 2 bis 20 M vor der nächsten Markierung übrig sind, , die nächsten 4 bis 40 M abketten (= 2 bis 20 vor der Markierung + 2 bis 20 nach der Makierung) und die Runde noch enden, wenden und Vorderteil mit einer Rückreihe anfangen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

01.06.2021 - 08:25

country flag Mila wrote:

Hallo, ich habe eine Frage zu dem Satz: Nach 10-10-11-11-12-12 cm auf beiden Seiten der Markierungen je 1 M. abn. Total 4 Mal alle 3 cm = 154-170-186-214-230-266 M. Heißt das, ich muss in jeder Runde sozusagen 2 M abn(pro Seite eine), nach 3cm nochmal und das insgesamt viermal. Weil dann hätte ich ja nur 4 mal 2M abgenommen, also insgesamt 8. Eigentlich müssten es aber 16 sein. Und wo genau soll ich Maschen abnehmen? Direkt nach jeder Markierung? Vielen Dank schon mal für die Hilfe!

10.02.2021 - 09:03

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Mila, es sollen 2 Maschen auf beiden Seiten von beiden Markierungen abgenommen werden, d.h. 4 Abnahmen pro Runden. Nehmen Sie 1 Masche vor der Markierung + 1 Masche nach der Markierung, und so auf beiden Seiten. Sie können direkt an den Markierungen abnehmen oder auf beiden Seite von 2 Maschen (= 1 Abnahme, 2 Maschen mit der Markierung dazwischen, 1 Abnahme). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

10.02.2021 - 11:47