DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 0.90 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 7.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Peach Melba

Knitted DROPS tunic worked sideways in garter st with lace pattern and buttons at the front in ”Safran”. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 139-3
DROPS design: Pattern no E-180
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials: DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
400-450-500-550-600-650 g colour no 12, peach

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 3 mm - or size needed to get 23 sts x 44 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTONS NO 521: 10 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 0.90 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 7.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
EDGE PATTERN:
ROW 1 (= RS):
K 3, 1 YO, P 2 tog, 1 YO, P 2 tog, 1 YO, K 1 twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front), K 2 tog, P 1, K 2 twisted tog, K 1 twisted, 1 YO, K 3 (= 17 sts).
ROW 2 (= WS):
K 3, P 3, K 1, P 3, K 2, 1 YO, P 2 tog, 1 YO, P 2 tog, K 1 (= 17 sts).
ROW 3-4: Work as 1st and 2nd row.
ROW 5:
K 3, 1 YO, P 2 tog, 1 YO, P 2 tog, 1 YO, K 1 twisted, 1 YO, K 2 tog, P 1, K 2 twisted tog, 1 YO, K 4 (= 18 sts).
ROW 6:
K 4, P 2, K 1, P 4, K 2, 1 YO, P 2 tog, 1 YO, P 2 tog, K 1 (= 18 sts).
ROW 7:
K 3, 1 YO, P 2 tog, 1 YO, P 2 tog, 1 YO, K 1 twisted, K 1, K 1 twisted, 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, 1 YO, K 5 (= 19 sts).
ROW 8:
K 5, P 7, K 2, 1 YO, P 2 tog, 1 YO, P 2 tog, K 1 (= 19 sts).
ROW 9:
K 3, 1 YO, P 2 tog, 1 YO, P 2 tog, 1 YO, K 1 twisted, K 3, K 1 twisted, 1 YO, K 7 (= 21 sts).
ROW 10:
Cast off 4 sts (1 st is now on right needle), K 2, P 7, K 2, 1 YO, P 2 tog, 1 YO, P 2 tog, K 1 (= 17 sts).
REPEAT THESE 10 ROWS.

LACE PATTERN:
See diagram M.1, diagram shows pattern from RS.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

SHORT ROWS 1:
Work 1st row from bottom edge (= from WS): * Work until 1st marker, turn, work back, work until 2nd marker, turn, work back, work until 3rd marker, turn, work back, work until 1st marker, turn, work back, work 2 rows over all sts. * Repeat from *-*, i.e. 10 rows at the bottom and 2 rows at the top in 1 repetition.

SHORT ROWS 2:
Work 1st row from bottom edge (= from WS): * Work until 1st marker, turn, work back, work until 2nd marker, turn, work back, work until 3rd marker, turn, work back, work until 1st marker, turn, work back, work until 4th marker, turn and work back, work 2 rows over all sts. * Repeat from *-*, i.e. 12 rows at the bottom and 2 rows at the top in 1 repetition.
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TUNIC:
Worked sideways from mid front – work from right front band and around. Worked back and forth on a circular needle to make room for all the sts.
NOTE: THE PICTURE HAS BEEN REVERSED IN THE CATALOGUE!

LOOSELY cast on 149-154-158-163-168-173 sts on circular needle size 3 mm. K 3 rows over all sts (1st row = WS). Work next row as follows from the top (= RS): K 3, * K 2 tog, make 1 YO, K 11-11-11-12-12-12 *, repeat from *-* a total of 9 times, K 2 tog, make 1 YO and K the remaining 27-32-36-32-37-42 sts (= 10 button holes). Then K 5 rows back and forth over all sts.
Work next row as follows from the top (= RS):
4-6-7-9-11-13 sts in GARTER ST – see explanation above, diagram M.1 (= 25 sts), 103-106-109-112-115-118 sts in garter st and then EDGE PATTERN over the last 17 sts - see explanation above.
Work next row as follows from bottom edge (= WS) at the same time insert 3 markers in the piece as follows:
Edge pattern over the first 17 sts, insert 1st marker, work 65-65-67-67-69-69 sts in garter st, insert 2nd marker, work 38-41-42-45-46-49 sts in garter st, insert 3rd marker, work diagram M.1 and work the last 4-6-7-9-11-13 sts in garter st.
Turn and work back in garter st and pattern as on previous row. Continue the pattern like this – AT THE SAME TIME work SHORT ROWS 1, beg from WS – see explanation above!
When piece measures 3 cm at the top by neck (measured from cast on edge when piece is flat), inc 1 st on next row towards neck by making 1 YO inside the 2 upper sts. On next row K YO twisted to avoid holes. Repeat inc every other row a total of 9 times and then on every 4th row 3 times. AT THE SAME TIME after 8 inc, insert a new marker after 4 sts from the top (= 4th marker). Then work SHORT ROWS 2. After all inc, there are 8 sts after last marker at the top and 161-166-170-175-180-185 sts in total (after 1 whole repetition of Edge pattern). When piece measures approx. 21-22-24-25-28-30 cm measured between 2nd and 3rd marker – measured from cast on edge and out to needle (adjust after 1 whole repetition with short rows), work next row as follows from WS: Work until 3-3-4-4-5-5 sts remain before 3rd marker (44-46-48-50-53-55 sts should remain), slip the sts just worked on a stitch holder. Work the row as before, turn and work back as before over the 44-46-48-50-53-55 sts. Then work back and forth over only the sts on the needle (= right sleeve).

RIGHT SLEEVE:
Work pattern and in garter st as before with short rows as follows: * Work until 3rd marker (= 3-3-4-4-5-5 sts), turn and work back, work until 4th marker, turn and work back, work 2 rows over all sts *, repeat from *-* until sleeve measures approx. 26-28-30-32-34-36 cm in bottom edge - finish after 1 row from RS. Slip the sts on a stitch holder.

RIGHT SIDE PIECE:
Slip sts from the first stitch holder back on needle and work 1 row from RS as before. Then work pattern as before and short rows as follows: * Work until 1st marker, turn and work back, work until 2nd marker, turn and work back, work 2 rows over all sts *, repeat from *-* until piece measures 2-4-4-6-6-8 cm at the top under the sleeve - finish after 1 row from RS over all sts.

BACK:
Work all sts on needle + sts from stitch holder back on circular needle (this row is worked from WS without short rows). NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Work 1 row back from RS with pattern as before. Then continue with pattern, in garter st and short rows 2 as before until piece measures 38-40-44-46-52-56 cm measured between 2nd and 3rd marker (adjust after 1 whole repetition with short rows). Now work next row from WS as follows: Work until 3-3-4-4-5-5 sts remain before 3rd marker, 44-46-48-50-53-55 sts should remain, slip the sts just worked on a stitch holder. Work the row as before, turn and work back as before over the 44-46-48-50-53-55 sts. Then work back and forth over only the sts on the needle (= left sleeve).

LEFT SLEEVE:
Work as right sleeve.

LEFT SIDE PIECE:
Work as right side piece.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work all sts on needle + sts from stitch holder back on needle. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Then continue with pattern, in garter and short rows 2 as before. When piece measures 6 cm measured between 2nd and 3rd marker, beg dec at the top of neck. Dec on next row from RS by K tog 2nd and 3rd st from the top. Repeat dec every 4th row 2 times and then on every other row 9 times. AT THE SAME TIME after 4 dec, finish with SHORT ROWS 1 (remove 4th marker). When all dec are done, 149-154-158-163-168-173 sts remain on needle (after 1 whole repetition of Edge pattern).
Work until piece measures approx. 19-20-22-23-26-28 cm measured between 2nd and 3rd marker (adjust after 1 whole repetition of Edge pattern and preferably also a full diagram M.1 if that fits).
Then K 9 rows over all sts for band. Then LOOSELY cast off from WS - it is very important to avoid a tight cast off edge - if it is tight, the garment will not hang nicely.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew on buttons.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = K from WS
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
symbols = K 3 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = knitting direction
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (83)

country flag Martha wrote:

Hallo zusammen. Bin etwas irritiert. Bei der 2ten verkürzten Reihe steht am Ende „ unten 12 Reihen und oben 2 Reihen per Rapport „ Mit der vierten Markierung komme ich immer auf 4 Reihen per Rapport. Hänge jetzt fest. Denke ich vielleicht verkehrt ? Für Hilfe wäre ich sooo dankbar. Das ist eine so wunderschöne, Zeitlose Weste. LG

14.03.2023 - 09:31

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Martha, nach 4. Markierung bis zur Ende der Reihe sind es nur 2 Reihen: 2 R bis 1. Mark. + 2 R bis 2. Mark + 2 R bis 3. Mark + 2 R bis 1. Mark + 2 R bis 4. Mark + 2 R über alle M = 12 R und nur 2 nach 4. Mark. kann das Ihnen helfen?

14.03.2023 - 10:20

country flag Ada wrote:

Klopt het dat in de 2e naald de laatste 8 steken niet gebreid moeten worden? En in de 4e, 6e, enz. ook niet?

22.07.2021 - 14:50

country flag Brigitte Gradl wrote:

Hallo, wie kann ich das Muster für Socken stricken, da es ja keine Rückreihe gibt

15.06.2021 - 09:15

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Grau Gradl, wenn Sie das Muster M.1 in der Runde stricken möchten, dann stricken Sie die Maschen, wie Sie bei den Hinreihen aussehen sollen, dh alle Kästchen werden rechts gestrickt, die mit dem schwarzen Quadrat werden links gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

15.06.2021 - 13:23

country flag Miriam Van Hoorn wrote:

Ik ben net begonnen aan dit patroon. Ik vind het heel mooi. Ik denk dat t ook mooi staat. Mijn vraag is de volgende. Hoe vaak moet ik de verkorte naalden breien? Moet ik dat steeds elke keer dat ik onderaan het patroon ben herhalen of alleen 1 x als het genoemd wordt dus 1x verkorte naalden 1 en 1x verkorte naalden 2?

03.06.2015 - 23:06

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Miriam. Je breit steeds de verkorte toeren over het hele patroon. Enige wissel is van verkorte toeren 1 naar 2 en terug naar 1.

04.06.2015 - 13:27

country flag Barcelo wrote:

Bordure fantaisie rang 5 compte 18 mailles,je n'en compte que 17 pouvez-vous m'éclairer Bien merci

01.08.2013 - 10:32

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Barcelo, le rang 5 a bien 18 m : 3 m end, 1 jeté, 2 m ens à l'env, 1 jeté, 2 m ens à l'env, 1 jeté, 1 m torse à l'end, 1 jeté, 2 m ens à l'end, 1 m env, 2 m ens torse à l'end, 1 jeté, 4 m end (= 18 m). Bon tricot !

01.08.2013 - 10:56

Elsa Ruiz wrote:

Hermoso modelo, será uno de mis p´róximos proyectos

29.12.2012 - 21:45

country flag Clary wrote:

Combien de série de rangs raccourcis?ce n'est pas clair

13.11.2012 - 14:10

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Clary, les rangs raccourcis 1 se tricotent jusqu'à ce que vous ayez fait 8 augmentations. Les rangs raccourcis 2 se répètent ensuite jusqu'à la fin du devant gauche où on reprend les rangs raccourcis 1. Bon tricot !

13.11.2012 - 14:22

country flag Lena Mörk wrote:

Ska vändningarna göras hela koftan? Eller bara två gånger? Lena

15.08.2012 - 14:57

DROPS Design answered:

Hej, du gör vändingarna runt hela koftan! Lycka till!

16.08.2012 - 15:43

country flag Lena Mörk wrote:

Ska vändningarna göras hela koftan? Eller bara två gånger? Lena

14.08.2012 - 18:57

Ana wrote:

Soy de Argentina y me gusto mucho este modelo. Gracias por publicar patrones gratuitos

25.06.2012 - 17:31