DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 0.75 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 8.25£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Cherry Dream

Knitted DROPS fitted jacket with garter st, lace front bands and pleats in ”Paris”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 137-3
DROPS design: Pattern no W-421
Yarn group C
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials: DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
Colour no 59, light old pink:
550-600-650-700-750-800 g

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES SIZE 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm - for garter st.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON NO 522: 1 piece

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 0.75 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 8.25£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.

BAND PATTERN:
Row 1: K 2, 1 YO, K 2 tog, 1 YO, K 5 = 10 sts.
Row 2: K = 10 sts.
Row 3: K 3, 1 YO, K 2 tog, 1 YO, K 5 = 11 sts.
Row 4: K = 11 sts.
Row 5: Cast off 2 sts (there is now 1 st on right needle), K 1, 1 YO, K 2 tog, 1 YO, K 5 = 10 sts.
Repeat 2nd to 5th row upwards.

DECREASE TIP 1 (applies to armhole):
Dec from RS inside 3 sts.
Dec AFTER 3 sts as follows: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso. Dec BEFORE 3 sts as follows: Work until 5 sts remain on needle, K 2 tog, K 3.

DECREASE TIP 2 (applies to neck dec):
Dec from RS inside all sts in band pattern + the inc sts for collar.
Dec as follows AFTER all these sts: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec as follows BEFORE all these sts: K 2 tog.
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BACK PIECE:
Worked back and forth on needle.
Cast on 82-88-94-102-112-122 sts (incl 1 edge st in each side) on needle size 4 mm with Paris. Work 4 rows in GARTER ST - see explanation above! Switch to needle size 5 mm and work in stocking st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures approx. 18-18-19-19-20-20 cm (adjust so that next row is worked from RS), make a pleat. This is done by working next row as follows: Work 17-20-23-27-32-37 sts, slip 12 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K tog first st that was slipped on cable needle with first st on needle, then K tog next st on cable needle with next st on needle, K tog 1 st from cable needle and 1 st from needle until all sts from cable needle have been worked. Then slip 12 sts on cable needle behind piece, K tog 1 st from needle tog with first st that was slipped on cable needle, K tog 1 st from needle and 1 st from cable needle until all sts on cable needle have been worked, K the remaining 17-20-23-27-32-37 sts = 58-64-70-78-88-98 sts on needle. Switch to needle size 4 mm and K 11 rows back and forth (= 6 ridges). Switch back to needle size 5 mm and work in stocking st. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 23-24-24-25-26-27 cm, inc 1 st in each side. Repeat inc every 4th row a total of 7-7-8-8-8-8 times = 72-78-86-94-104-114 sts. When piece measures 37-38-39-40-41-42 cm, cast off 3-4-5-6-7-8 sts in each side for armholes (cast off at beg of the 2 next rows). On next row from RS, dec 1 st in each side - SEE DECREASE TIP 1. Repeat dec every other row a total of 3-4-6-7-9-11 times = 60-62-64-68-72-76 sts remain on needle. When piece measures 53-55-57-59-61-63 cm, work 4 rows in garter st over the middle 26-26-26-28-28-28 sts (work the other sts as before), then cast off the middle 16-16-16-18-18-18 sts for neck. Finish each shoulder (= 22-23-24-25-27-29 sts) separately with 5 sts in garter st towards the neck. Cast off when piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 46-49-52-56-61-66 sts (incl 9 band sts towards mid front and 1 edge st in the side) on needle size 4 mm with Paris. Work 4 rows in garter st. Switch to needle size 5 mm. Then work as follows (1st row = RS): BAND PATTERN – see explanation above – over the first 9 sts (these sts become 10 on 1st row and will vary between 10 and 11 sts onwards), insert a marker, then work in stocking st with 1 edge st in garter st. Continue like this until piece measures approx. 18-18-19-19-20-20 cm (adjust so that next row is worked from RS). Work next row as follows: Band pattern as before until marker, then slip 12 sts on cable needle behind piece, K tog 1 st from needle tog with first st that was slipped on cable needle, K tog 1 st from needle and 1 st from cable needle until all sts on cable needle have been worked, K the remaining 13-16-19-23-28-33 sts. Switch to needle size 4 mm and K 11 rows back and forth over the 25-28-31-35-40-45 sts in the side, work band as before – NOTE: AT THE SAME TIME on 6th row (= from RS), cast off for 1 button hole as follows: Work the outermost 5 or 6 sts as before (5 sts in garter st remain on band), K 2 tog and make 1 YO, work the rest of row. When 11 rows K have been worked, switch back to needle size 5 mm.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Continue in stocking st with band pattern as before.
COLLAR: At the same time, 1 cm after the switch back to needle size 5 mm, start inc for collar. This is done as follows (from RS): Work the first 9 or 10 sts as before (1 st in garter st should now remain on band), make 1 YO, work last st in garter st and then work in stocking st the rest of row. On next row K YO twisted to avoid holes (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front). Repeat inc every 4th row a total of 6 times, then on every 6th row until finished measurements (inc inside 1 st in garter st the entire time - work the inc sts in garter st).
NECK DEC: At the same time when 3 inc for collar have been made, dec 1 st towards the neck - SEE DECREASE TIP 2! Repeat dec every 4th row a total of 9-9-9-10-10-10 times.
SIDE INC: At the same time when piece measures 23-24-24-25-26-27 cm, inc in the side as on back piece.
ARMHOLE: When piece measures 37-38-39-40-41-42 cm, cast off for armhole towards the side as on back piece.
When piece measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm, (adjust after 1 whole repetition of band pattern), cast off all sts.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as right front piece. But K the first row after the bottom 4 rows in garter st, turn and then work 1st row in BAND PATTERN from WS (this is done so that each side at the front is the same). When piece measures 18-18-19-19-20-20 cm, work next row as follows from RS: Work 13-16-19-23-28-33 sts as before, slip 12 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K tog the first st that was slipped on cable needle with first st on needle, then K tog 1 st from cable needle with 1 st from needle until all sts on cable needle have been worked, work band pattern as before the rest of row. Finish as right front piece but without button hole.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 40-42-44-46-48-50 sts (incl 1 edge st in each side) on needle size 4 mm with Paris. Work 4 rows in garter st, switch to needle size 5 mm. Continue in stocking st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. When piece measures 11 cm, inc 1 st in each side. Repeat inc every 4½-4-3½-3-2½-2 cm a total of 9-10-11-12-13-14 times = 58-62-66-70-74-78 sts. When piece measures 50-49-48-46-44-42 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and broader shoulder width) cast off for sleeve cap at beg of every row in each side: 4 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 3-4-5-6-7-8 times, then cast off 2 sts in each side until piece measures 57-57-57-56-55-54 cm, then cast off 3 sts 1 time in each side. Cast off the remaining sts, piece measures approx. 58-58-58-57-56-55 cm.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams (= 22-23-24-25-27-29 sts), the remaining sts on each front piece = collar. Sew in sleeves and sew sleeve and side seams in one inside 1 edge st. Sew on button. If desired sew on 1 press stud approx. 7 cm above the button if you want to keep the jacket more closed.

Diagram

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (50)

country flag Cova wrote:

En el borde, que quiere decir Rem? Vuelta 5: Rem 2 pts (tenemos ahora 1 pt en la ag derecha), 1d, 1 HEB, 2 pjd, 1 HEB, 5d = 10 pts. Repetir la 2ª a la 5ª vta hacia arriba.

26.04.2019 - 21:31

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Cova. Rem = rematar = cerrar.

28.04.2019 - 20:48

country flag Plüschappel wrote:

Hallo! Auf dem Foto sieht es aus als hätte die Jacke zwei Knöpfe. In der Anleitung wird nur einer verwendet. Was ist richtig? Geht ein Knopf allein nicht schnell von allein auf? LG!

26.06.2018 - 15:20

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Plüschappel, also wenn Sie möchten können Sie noch 1 Druckknof 7 cm oben den Knopf annähen, damit die Jacke besser geschlossen wird. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

26.06.2018 - 15:51

country flag Isabella Kraus wrote:

Liebes DROPS-Team, täusche ich mich oder hat die Anleitung bei linken Vorderteil einen Fehler an der Stelle, wo es um die Falte geht? Wenn beide Vorderteile symmetrisch sind und die Falte von der Vorderseite aus gearbeitet wird muss man die Maschen doch auf eine Hilfsnadel VOR die Arbeit legen statt wie beim rechten Vorderteil hinter die Nadel, oder? Viele Grüße von Isabella

18.04.2017 - 23:24

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Kraus, es stimmt, Anleitung wird korrigiert, die Hilfsnadel beim linken Vorderteil muss vor die Arbeit legen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

19.04.2017 - 10:09

country flag Debors wrote:

Liebes Drops-Team, Vielen Dank erstmal für die vielen tollen Strickmuster! Ich als Strickanfänger wollte mich an die Jacke wagen und habe vorher noch eine Frage: wozu soll ich bei dieser Jacke die Markierung machen? Nur um den Anfang der Blende zu markieren oder hat das noch einen anderen Sinn? Vielen Dank und herzliche Grüsse

31.12.2015 - 14:33

DROPS Design answered:

Ja, das ist zur Markierung der Blenden-Maschen, denn Sie stricken die Blenden ja im Blendenmuster und dabei ist die Maschenzahl nicht immer gleich. Um nicht durcheinander zu kommen, ist es besser, die Blenden-M zu markieren, damit man sich nicht verzählt.

02.01.2016 - 20:06

country flag Michaela wrote:

Fortsetzung: Die eine Reihe rechts zusaetzlich nach den Krausrippen habe ich gestrickt. Ich hoffe, ich mache irgendwas falsch, weil es sehr auffaellig anders aussieht und ich mir dann die Arbeit umsonst gemacht haette, so wuerde ich das nicht tragen wollen ...

16.08.2014 - 06:10

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Michaela, Sie haben also bei dem linken Vorderteil mit einer Rück-R begonnen? Das wäre auf jeden Fall richtig so. Das Muster dürfte auf beiden Seiten eigentlich nicht sehr unterschiedlich aussehen, da es ja auf kraus rechts basiert. Haben Sie versehentlich bei der rechten Blende die Rück-R zwischen den Loch-R (also die 2. und 4. R) li gestrickt?

16.08.2014 - 11:23

country flag Michaela wrote:

Habe jetzt Rueckenteil und rechtes Vorderteil fertig. Und stelle jetzt beim linken Vorderteil fest, dass das Blendenmuster beim linken Vorderteil dann "von der anderen Seite" erscheint, sprich die beiden Blenden sind gut sichtbar unterschiedlich, die eine sozusagen von der glatten Seite und die andere von der verkehrten. Oder mache ich was falsch?

16.08.2014 - 06:09

DROPS Design answered:

Antwort siehe oben! :-)

16.08.2014 - 11:23

country flag LEMAREC wrote:

Je recherche une aide pour la bordure fantaisie. Si je suis les explications point par point je me retrouve avec des mailles supplémentaires et les jours ne sont pas alignés Merci de votre aide

19.03.2013 - 13:54

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Madame Lemarec, pour toute aide personnalisée, je vous recommande de vous adresser à votre magasin DROPS ou sur le forum DROPS où il est plus facile d'expliquer. Bon tricot !

19.03.2013 - 15:55

country flag Rachael Johannes wrote:

Can't wait to cast on for this today!

14.05.2012 - 21:31

country flag Angelika wrote:

Wunderschöne Jacke stricke sie gerade in lindgrün für meine Tochter...

08.04.2012 - 08:32

country flag Ana wrote:

¿Cuantas veces tengo que aumentar puntos en cada 6ª vuelta?

15.02.2012 - 21:54