DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 32.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Eveningstar

Men's knitted jumper with star border, in DROPS Karisma. Sizes S to XXXL.

DROPS 135-35
DROPS design: Pattern no U-647
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials: DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
Colour no 54, beige brown:
600-650-700-750-850-900 g
Colour no 01, off white:
50-50-50-50-100-100 g

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm and 80 cm) SIZE 3 mm - for rib
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 32.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 – diagram is worked in stocking st and show 1 repetition of pattern.
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BODY:
Worked in the round on circular needle.
Cast on 184-208-224-248-264-288 sts on circular needle size 3 mm with beige brown. Work rib = K 5/P 3 for 5 cm. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm and K 1 round while at the same time dec 10-14-10-14-10-14 sts evenly = 174-194-214-234-254-274 sts. Insert a marker at beg of round and a marker after 87-97-107-117-127-137 sts (these marks the sides). Continue in stocking st.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 15 cm, inc 1 st on each side of both markers. Repeat inc every 8 cm a total of 4 times = 190-210-230-250-270-290 sts. When piece measures 41-43-44-46-47-49 cm, work diagram M.1 – start at the st marked with an arrow for your size, start again at the same arrow when you get to the marker in the side so that the pattern is the same on the front and back with 1 star in the middle. When piece measures 46-47-48-49-50-51 cm, cast off 8 sts in each side for armholes (i.e. cast off 4 sts on each side of both markers). Finish front and back piece separately.

FRONT PIECE:
= 87-97-107-117-127-137 sts. Work diagram M.1 until it is finished, then continue to work with beige brown. AT THE SAME TIME cast off for armhole at beg of every row in each side: 3 sts 0-0-1-1-2-3 times, 2 sts 0-2-2-3-3-4 times and 1 st 2-2-2-4-5-4 times = 83-85-89-91-93-95 sts remain on needle.
When piece measures 59-61-63-65-67-69 cm, slip the middle 21-21-23-23-25-25 sts on a stitch holder for neck. Then finish each shoulder separately - AT THE SAME TIME cast off on every row from neck: 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 3 times = 24-25-26-27-27-28 sts remain on shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm.

BACK PIECE:
Work as on front piece but do not cast off for neck until piece measures 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm. Now cast off the middle 33-33-35-35-37-37 sts. Finish each shoulder separately - AT THE SAME TIME cast off 1 st on next row from neck = 24-25-26-27-27-28 sts remain on shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 48-56-56-56-56-64 sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm with beige brown. Work rib = K 5/P 3 for 6 cm. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work in stocking st. Insert a marker mid under sleeve. When piece measures 10 cm, inc 1 st on each side of marker. Repeat inc on every 8th-9th-7th-6th-5th-6th round a total of 15-13-15-17-19-17 times = 78-82-86-90-94-98 sts. When piece measures 54-53-52-51-50-49 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and broader shoulder width), cast off 8 sts mid under sleeve. Then continue back and forth on needle - AT THE SAME TIME cast off for sleeve cap at the beg of every row in each side: 2 sts 3 times and 1 st 3-5-6-7-9-10 times, then cast off 2 sts in each side until piece measures 61 cm, then cast off 4 sts 1 time in each side. Cast off the remaining sts, the piece measures approx. 62 cm for all sizes.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams and sew in sleeves.

NECK:
Knit up approx. 85 to 95 sts around the neck (incl sts on stitch holder at the front) on a short circular needle size 4 mm with beige brown. P 1 round, then K 1 round while at the same time inc evenly to 96-96-104-104-112-112 sts. Continue with rib = K 5/P 3 for 4 cm, cast off with K over K and P over P.


Diagram

symbols = off white
symbols = beige brown
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (48)

country flag Marijke wrote:

Beste Dropsmedewerker,\\r\\nIk ben eigenaar van een kleine webwinkel en verkoop babykleertjes. De meeste truitjes en vestjes heb ik zelf gegenereerd dmv een app. Maar bv. jurkjes kan ik daar niet mee maken. Alles wat ik verkoop is handgemaakt en uniek, dwz maar 1 product in die kleur en die maat. Graag zou ik af en toe gebruikwillen maken van dropspatronen. Mijn vraag is: geven jullie mij toestemming hiervoor? Ik kijk uit naar uw antwoord. Met vr. Gr. Marijke Geerlings

20.07.2023 - 15:18

country flag Diane wrote:

Bonjour, je tricote le eveningstar, u647. Je ne comprends pas : Lorsque on dit tricoter devant et dos séparément, je ne peux plus me servir des aiguilles circulaires ? Car si je met en attente le dos par exemple pour tricoter devant, je n' ai plus la possibilité de tricoter en circulaire. Merci !

30.11.2020 - 22:11

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Diane, quand vous divisez l'ouvrage pour les emmanchures, vous ne tricotez effectivement plus en rond, mais vous pouvez continuer à tricoter sur l'aiguille circulaire, en allers et retours (cf vidéo) en mettant la moitié des mailles en attente sur une autre aiguille/un fil/un arrêt de mailles. Quand le devant (par ex) sera terminé, vous reprendrez les mailles du dos pour le terminer et vous pourrez ensuite assembler les épaules comme pour un pull "classique". Bon tricot!

01.12.2020 - 09:22

country flag Nicole wrote:

Et ma laine est Mérinos extra fine. Merci

18.09.2020 - 17:41

country flag Nicole wrote:

Bonjour je me prépare à faire le pull DROPS design : Modèle n° U-647. Le tour de poitrine de mon fils est 102cm. Je prenais le modèle Médium. Est-ce que ça sera correcte. J'ai fais mon échantillon et j'ai bien 10X10 cm. Merci de votre aide

18.09.2020 - 17:39

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nicole, mesurez un pull qu'il aime pour vérifier les mesures et ajuster la taille - attention à tricoter Merino Extra Fine comme il faut (plutôt serrée si besoin - cf nuancier), lavez votre échantillon et vérifiez les mesures si besoin. Votre magasin DROPS saura vous assister. Bon tricot!

21.09.2020 - 15:55

country flag Nicole wrote:

Est-ce qu'il est possible de commencer le patron par le haut plutôt que par le bas? Je suis plus à l'aise en commençant par de haut en bas. Si ça se fait qu'est que j'ai à changer pour que ça fonctionne?

04.09.2020 - 15:32

country flag Nicole wrote:

Merci pour votre réponse!

04.09.2020 - 15:29

country flag Nicole wrote:

Bonjour, je fais le modèle DROPS Design: Modell nr U-647 un pull pour homme taille M je suis novice dans le jacquard. Quand je suis rendue au diagramme M.1 je ne comprends pas comment commencer ce diagramme. J'ai déjà fait un pull de femme avec jacquard et je commençais le diagramme complètement à droite mais là le M est complètement à gauche et ça dit d'aller à la flèche de notre taille et je ne sais pas du tout comment commencer le diagramme. Merci de m'aider!

29.08.2020 - 04:17

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nicole, commencez le diagramme sur l'endroit par la maille avec la flèche et lisez vers la gauche = 2 mailles en taille M, puis reprenez le diagramme de droite à gauche et répétez 5 fois les 20 mailles de M.1, tricotez maintenant les 3 premières mailles = vous avez tricoté la moitié des mailles = 105 m. Recommencez encore une fois de la même façon (le diagramme ne tombe pas juste sur les côtés mais le motif est ainsi centré). Bon tricot!

31.08.2020 - 10:50

country flag Christa Kujawa-Hüsch wrote:

Guten morgen ,ich habe den Pullover fast fertig gestrickt und ich bin begeistert . Jetzt weiss ich nicht ob ich den Pullover ganz fertig ist ,feucht aufbügeln soll ,damit das Muster noch schöner rauskommt ,oder mache ich da was falsch ?

09.07.2020 - 10:17

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Kujawa-Hüsch, Sie können auch einfach den fertigen Pullover auf einer geeigneten Unterlage spannen, anfeuchten (z.B. mit einer Sprühflasche für Blumen) und trocknen lassen, oder auch einfach mal waschen - lesen Sie die Banderole sowie diese Tipps. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

09.07.2020 - 11:32

country flag Florence wrote:

Merci beaucoup pour votre réponse !

09.03.2020 - 15:31

country flag Florence wrote:

Bonjour, pouvez-vous me dire combien de fois il faut répéter la diminution de 2 m en haut de la manche, et combien il doit rester de mailles à la fin ? Je tricote la taille XXXL. Bien cordialement.

07.03.2020 - 09:30

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Florence, le nombre de mailles restantes va dépendre du nombre de fois où vous allez rabattre 2 mailles de chaque côté, autrement dit, cela va dépendre de votre tension en hauteur, veillez juste à bien rabattre autant de fois en début de rang sur l'endroit et en début de rang sur l'envers jusqu'à ce que la manche mesure 61 cm. Bon tricot!

09.03.2020 - 09:56