DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale

Hint of Spring

Crochet DROPS jacket with bobbles and lace edges in ”BabyMerino” or ”BabyAlpaca Silk”. Size S - XXXL

DROPS 130-14
DROPS design: Pattern no BM-007
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials: DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
Colour no 23, light beige: 450-500-550-650-700-750 g

Alternative materials:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
The whole jacket can be worked in BabyAlpaca Silk instead of Baby Merino if desired. In that case replace with colour no 1760, light gray purple:
500-550-600-700-750-800 g

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5 mm – or size needed to get 22 tr x 14 rows vertically = 10 x 10 cm.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTONS NO 521: 6 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN: See diagram M.1 and M.2.

CROCHET INFO:
Replace first tr at beg of every tr row with 3 ch, finish the row with 1 tr in 3rd ch from beg of previous row.
Replace first tr at beg of every tr round with 3 ch, finish the round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.

CROCHET TIP (applies to round yoke):
If crochet tension is not correct in height the yoke will be too short or too long. This can be adjusted by working 1 extra row with tr or one row less with tr evenly between dec.

DECREASE TIP 1 (applies to waist and yoke):
Dec 1 tr by working 2 tr tog, i.e. work 1 tr but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), work 1 more tr and pull last YO through all 3 sts on hook.

DECREASE TIP 2 (applies to armholes and neck):
When dec several tr at the same time at the armhole and neck, dec as follows:
At beg of row: Replace no of tr to be dec with 1 sl st in every tr.
At end of row: Turn piece when no of tr to be dec remains and continue working as before.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 tr by working 2 tr in same tr.
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BODY:
Worked back and forth from mid front.
READ CROCHET INFO!
Work 243-267-291-320-355-389 ch on hook size 3.5 mm with Baby Merino.
WORK 1ST ROW AS FOLLOWS: 1 tr in 4th ch from hook, 1 tr in next ch, skip 1 ch, * 1 tr in each of the next 3 ch, skip 1 ch *, repeat from *-* until 1-1-1-2-1-3 ch remain, finish with 1 tr in each of the last ch = 181-199-217-239-265-291 tr on row, turn piece.
2ND ROW: Work 1 tr in every tr.
Insert 4 markers in the piece as follows:
1st marker after 19-21-23-25-28-31 tr from mid front, 2nd marker after another 54-60-64-72-78-86 tr, 3rd marker after another 35-37-43-45-53-57 tr, 4th marker after yet another 54-60-64-72-78-86 tr (19-21-23-25-28-31 tr remain on row after last marker).
Work back and forth with 1 tr in every tr and move the markers upwards. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 3 cm, dec 1 tr before 1st and 3rd marker and after 2nd and 4th marker (= 4 tr dec on row) - READ DECREASE TIP 1. Repeat dec approx. every 4 cm a total of 5 times = 161-179-197-219-245-271 tr on row.
When piece measures 22 cm, inc 1 tr before 1st and 3rd marker and after 2nd and 4th marker (= 4 tr inc) - READ INCREASE TIP. Repeat inc approx. every 1-1-1-1½-1½-1½ cm a total of 7 times = 189-207-225-247-273-299 tr on row. When piece measures 31-33-33-35-35-37 cm (finish with one row from WS), divide for armholes and work each part separately.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Start from RS and work 43-48-52-58-64-71 tr from mid front, turn piece, work the first 2 tr tog and work the rest of row. Turn piece, work the first 40-45-49-55-61-68 tr and work the next 2 tr tog, turn piece, work the first 2 tr tog and work the rest of row (last row is from WS) = 40-45-49-55-61-68 tr on row, cut the thread.

BACK PIECE:
Start from RS in 11th tr after right front piece (i.e. there is an opening in the side of 10 tr for armhole), and work 83-91-101-111-125-137 tr, turn piece, work 3 rows with tr over back piece while AT THE SAME TIME working the first 2 and the last 2 tr on every row tog (last row is from WS) = 77-85-95-105-119-131 tr on row, cut the thread.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Start from RS in 11th tr after back piece (there is now an opening of 10 tr for armhole in both left and right side) and work over the remaining 43-48-52-58-64-71 tr as on right front piece but reversed (last row is from WS) = 40-45-49-55-61-68 tr on row, cut the thread.

SLEEVE:
Crochet 73 ch in all sizes on hook size 3.5 mm with Baby Merino and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
READ CROCHET INFO!
WORK 1ST ROUND AS FOLLOWS: 3 ch (= 1 tr), 1 tr in each of the next 2 ch, skip 1 ch, * 1 tr in each of the next 3 ch, skip 1 ch *, repeat from *-* until 2 ch remain, 1 tr in each of the last ch and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 56 tr. Now work M.1 in the round - see explanation above!
After M.1 continue back and forth (worked back and forth to make the crochet structure the same on body and sleeves). Work 1st row as follows: 1 tr in every tr while AT THE SAME TIME inc 0-0-2-2-6-6 tr evenly = 56-56-58-58-62-62 tr. Continue with 1 tr in every tr. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 13-11-11-11-11-11 cm, inc 1 tr in each side - READ INCREASE TIP! Repeat inc approx. every 3-2½-2½-2-2-2 cm a total of 10-12-13-15-15-18 times = 76-80-84-88-92-98 tr. When piece measures 45-44-44-43-43-42 cm (NOTE! Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and broader shoulder width),
work 1 sl st in each of the first 5 tr at beg of row from RS, work 66-70-74-78-82-88 tr and turn piece (there is now an opening of 5 tr in each side (= mid under sleeve). Work 3 rows with tr back and forth over sleeve while AT THE SAME TIME working the first 2 and the last 2 tr on every row tog - READ DECREASE TIP 1 (last row is from WS) = 60-64-68-72-76-82 tr on row. Cut the thread and work another sleeve.

YOKE:
READ CROCHET TIP!
Now work the parts tog as follows - start from RS:
Work 1 tr in each of the 40-45-49-55-61-68 tr on right front piece, work 1 tr in each of the 60-64-68-72-76-82 tr from one sleeve, work 1 tr in each of the 77-85-95-105-119-131 tr from back piece, work 1 tr in each of the 60-64-68-72-76-82 tr from the other sleeve and work 1 tr in each of the 40-45-49-55-61-68 tr from left front piece = 277-303-329-359-393-431 tr on row.
Insert a marker after 12-14-15-17-21-12 tr, then insert 21-23-23-25-25-29 markers with 12-12-13-13-14-14 tr between each, i.e. 13-13-15-17-22-13 tr remain after last marker.
Now work tr back and forth on yoke while AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row dec 1 tr - READ DECREASE TIP 1 - before every marker = 255-279-305-333-367-401 tr. Repeat dec alternately before and after markers (seen from RS) every 3rd row a total of 9-9-10-10-11-11 times.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 47-49-51-52-54-56 cm (measured straight down along mid front), dec for neck in each side towards mid front on every row as follows – READ DECREASE TIP 2:
7 tr 1 time, 3 tr 3 times. Continue to dec 1 tr towards mid front on every row until all dec on yoke are done.

ELEVATION IN BACK OF NECK:
Start mid front, at top of corner on right front piece. Crochet on hook size 3.5 mm around the neck as follows:
Start with 1 dc in first tr, * 1 ch, skip 1 tr, 1 dc in next tr *, repeat from *-* around the neck and finish with 1 dc at the front of neck at top of corner on left front piece. Turn piece. Work 1 dc in every ch and 1 ch over every dc around the neck until 8 sts remain (= 4 dc + 4 ch) on right front piece. Turn piece. Work 1 dc in every ch and 1 ch over every dc until 8 sts remain on left front piece. Turn piece.
Work 1 dc in every ch and 1 ch in every dc around the neck until 16 sts remain before edge on right front piece (= 8 dc and 8 ch). Turn piece. Work 1 dc in every ch and 1 ch over every dc around the neck until 16 sts remain before edge on left front piece. Turn piece. Work 1 dc in every ch and 1 ch over every dc around the neck until 24 sts remain before edge on right front piece (= 12 dc and 12 ch). Turn piece. Work 1 dc in every ch and 1 ch over every dc until 24 sts remain before edge on left front piece. Cut the thread.

LACE EDGES:
Work on hook size 3.5 mm with Baby Merino as follows:

Along mid front:
Start from RS and work 1 row dc up along right front piece - there should be approx. 23 dc on 10 cm up along mid front. Adjust so that no of sts can be divided by 6 + 2 sts. Then work 1 row from WS with 1 tr in every dc. Then work M.2 but skip 1st row in M.2 (= dc row).
Repeat along left front piece.

Around the neck:
Work M.2 along the neckline (start with dc row and adjust no of sts on row so that it can be divided by 6 + 2 sts).

Bottom edge:
Work M.2 along the bottom edge of jacket (start with dc row and adjust no of sts on row so that it can be divided by 6 + 2 sts).

Sleeves:
Work M.2 along the bottom edge of each sleeve (start with dc row and adjust no of sts on row so that it can be divided by 6 + 2 sts).

POCKETS:
Crochet 15 ch on hook size 3.5 mm with Baby Merino.
Work 1st row as follows: Work 1 tr in 4th ch from hook, then work 1 tr in each of the remaining ch = 13 tr. Work M.1 back and forth, arrow in diagram marks middle tr on pocket, count outwards from there.
AT THE SAME TIME work new tr at end of every row in each side: 3 tr 1 time, 2 tr 1 time and 1 tr 4 times = a total of 31 tr (make new tr by working same no of ch at end of row as no of tr to be inc + 2 ch, turn piece, work 1 tr in 4th ch from hook and 1 tr in the each of the remaining ch (if any) before continuing). Continue with bobbles and tr vertically until pocket measures approx. 11 cm vertically - after last row with bobbles work one row with tr while AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 tr = 32 tr. Then work M.2 at top of pocket (start with dc row), cut and fasten the thread. Crochet another pocket. Sew pockets on to front piece, approx. 5 cm from bottom edge and approx. 8 cm in from mid front on each front piece. Sew 6 buttons on to left front piece, 2 cm below first dec for neck and then evenly spaced with approx. 8 cm between each. Button the jacket in the lace edge.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 03.11.2016
Lace edge added on sleeves.

Diagram

symbols = 1 ch
symbols = 1 dc
symbols = 1 tr
symbols = 1 BOBBLE:
Work 6 dtr tog in the same st
as follows: Work 1 dtr but wait with
last pull through (= 2 sts on
hook), work another 1 dtr in the same st
but wait with last pull through
(= 3 sts on hook), continue like this until
6 dtr have been worked this way and
pull last YO through all 7 sts on
hook

diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (84)

country flag Judith wrote:

Ich bin gerade bei der Passe. Wieviele Maschen sollten noch übrig sein in Grösse M wenn die Passe fertig ist ? Bzw wie ist dann die Höhe des Vorderteils?

19.11.2023 - 17:51

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Judith, die Maschenanzahl wird je nach Ihrer eigenen Maschenprobe in der Höhe unterschiedlich sein, wichtig ist daß Sie bei jeder Markierung 9 Mal in jeder 3. Reihe abnehmen und für den Halsauschnitt: 7 M + 3 x 3 M beidseitig abnehmen + 1 Stäbchen beidseitig bis alle Abnahmen fertig sind. Die fertige Passe mist 19 cm in M (siehe Maßskizze). Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

20.11.2023 - 11:14

country flag Camilla wrote:

Hej, Det står att förstå st på havet ska göras som 3lm och att dessa ska räknas som en stolpe. På armen syr det totalt 56st i början men jag får det till 57st om de 3lm i början räknas som en st. Vilket ska det vara? Mvh Camilla

22.09.2023 - 07:16

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Camilla, du skal få 56 st for at kunne følge M.1 :)

26.09.2023 - 15:31

country flag Niki wrote:

Hi, how many 50g balls would I need to make the large cardigan please? Thank you

28.01.2022 - 13:30

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Nicki, you will find the total amount of yarn in each size under the header, ie in the largest size you might need either 750 g/50 g a ball Baby Merino = 15 balls Baby Merino or 800 g/50 g a ball Baby Alpaca Silk = 16 balls Baby Alpaca Silk, depending on the yarn you will choose. Use our yarn alternative to find more suggestions. Happy crocheting!

28.01.2022 - 14:01

country flag Altenburg wrote:

Wird die jacke von oben gehäkelt? Gruß Frau Altenburg

15.12.2020 - 17:50

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Altenburg, diese Jacke wird von unten nach oben gehäkelt. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

16.12.2020 - 06:47

country flag Ulrika Ljunggren wrote:

Förstår inte när jag ska avsluta oket, det blir som en tjurnacke...det står bara att avm ska göras till oket är klart och jag behöver hjälp med att förstå när det är?

06.11.2020 - 18:31

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Ulrika, du virkar 6 förkortade varv enligt "FÖRHÖJNING BAK I NACKEN" vänd när det återstår först 8 m (i varje sida), sedan 16 m och sist 24 maskor i varje sida, nu har du virkat 6 extra varv över de mittersta m på bakstycket, klipp tråden och fortsätt enligt beskrivningen. Lycka till :)

17.11.2020 - 09:12

country flag Anna Davis wrote:

Hello there, i am fairly new crocheter and just have a quick question about the pattern. The first part of the pattern says to place stitch markers after 21 dcs. Does this mean add a stitch marker on the 21 dc or 22dc? Thanks very much:)

16.11.2019 - 22:28

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Anna, it means you have to pit the stitch marker between the 21st and the 22nd stitch. I hope this helps. Happy Crafting!

17.11.2019 - 17:15

country flag Lena wrote:

Hej. Kan jag virka denna i drops Paris? Har nämligen 1 kg av detta garn och vill virka något liknande.

08.08.2019 - 13:54

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lena, nej DROPS Baby Merino = garngrupp A och DROPS Paris = garngrupp C. Det vill säga att Paris blir för tjock för mönstret. Har ser du mönster som passar till DROPS Paris: mönster till DROPS Paris

09.08.2019 - 08:32

country flag Mia Johansson wrote:

Hej! Jag undrar vad "från mitt fram" syftar på i följande beskrivning: HÖGER FRAMST: Starta från rätsidan och virka 43-48-52-58-64-71 st från mitt fram... Innebär det att jag ska starta från början på det räta varvet eller ska jag starta längre in på framstycket? Mvh Mia Johansson

18.02.2019 - 15:34

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Mia. Fra midt foran betyr at du starter på den siden av arbeidet som vil være midt foran når du har jakken på deg. Altså ved jakkeåpningen (i motsetning til om du starter i siden av jakken = siden på kroppen) Så du starter i enden, og denne enden blir midt foran på jakken. God fornøyelse

21.02.2019 - 13:50

country flag Lone wrote:

Hvordan udvælger jeg den rigtige størrelse, når bryst mål svarer til en str L og resten af målene er str M

07.02.2019 - 10:59

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lone, hvis du ikke selv kan justere lidt med udtagningerne omkring brystmålet, så er du nødt til at vælge en str L. God fornøjelse!

07.02.2019 - 15:51

country flag Maggie wrote:

Which row is right side

25.12.2018 - 00:18

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Maggie, the right side of piece is the side where you crocheted the first row at the very beginning of the pattern. Happy crocheting!

02.01.2019 - 09:32