DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 127-36
DROPS design: Pattern no NE-044
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Size: 35/37 - 38/40 - 41/43

Materials: DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
100 g for all sizes in colour no 3720, medium pink
50 g for all sizes in colour no 3112, powder pink

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4 mm – or size needed to get 15 dc/tr = width 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
SLIPPER:
Crochet 52-60-68 ch on hook size 4 mm with powder pink and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROW 1: 1 ch, 1 dc in each of the first 7-7-11 ch. Turn piece.
ROW 2: 1 ch, 1 dc in each of the 7-7-11 dc. Turn piece.
ROW 3 (Size 35/37 + 38/40): 1 ch, 1 dc in 1st dc, 1 ch, 1 tr in 3rd dc, 1 ch, 1 tr in 5th dc, 1 ch, 1 dc in 7th dc. Turn piece.
ROW 3 (Size 41/43): 1 ch, 1 dc in 1st dc, 1 ch, 1 tr in 3rd dc, 1 ch, 1 tr in 5th dc, 1 ch, 1 tr in 7th dc, 1 ch, 1 tr in 9th dc, 1 ch, 1 dc in 11th dc. Turn piece.
ROW 4 (All sizes): 1 ch, 1 dc in dc, * 1 ch, 1 tr in tr *, repeat from *-* a total of 2-2-3 times, 1 ch, 1 dc in dc. Turn piece.
Size 41/43: Repeat 4th row 2 more times (= 5th and 6th row).
ROW 5-5-7: Work as 4th row but do not turn piece. Now continue to work down the side. 1 ch, 1 dc in dc from 4th-4th-6th row, 1 dc in each of the next 2-2-4 dc, 1 dc in ch worked on 1st row (= 4-4-6 dc along the side). Then work 1 dc in each of the next 19-23-23 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 7-7-11 ch, 1 dc in each of the next 19-23-23 ch, now continue to work along the side: 1 dc in same ch that was worked on 1st row, 1 dc in dc from 2nd row, 1 dc in each of the next 2-2-4 dc (= 4-4-6 dc along the side), 1 ch and 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round. Cut and fasten the thread.

Start with powder pink in the first of the 4-4-6 dc that were worked up along the last side.

ROUND 1 (Size 35/37 + 38/40): 1 ch, 1 dc in each of the first 3 dc, 2 htr in next dc, 3 htr in dc from beg of 5th row, 2 tr in same st, (1 dtr, 1 ch, 1 dtr) in the middle ch, 2 tr in next ch, 3 htr in same st, 2 htr in first dc in the side, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, 1 dc in each of the next 19-23 dc, 1 tr in each of the next 7 tr, 1 dc in each of the next 19-23 dc and finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round.
ROUND 1 (Size 41/43): 1 ch, 1 dc in each of the first 5 dc, 2 htr in next dc, 3 htr in dc from beg of 7th row, 2 tr in same st, 2 tr in 2nd ch, (1 dtr, 1 ch, 1 dtr) in the middle ch, 2 tr in next ch, 2 tr in next ch, 3 htr in same st, 2 htr in first dc in the side, 1 dc in each of the next 5 dc, 1 dc in each of the next 23 dc, 1 tr in each of the next 11 tr, 1 dc in each of the next 23 dc and finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round.
ROUND 2 (All sizes): 1 ch, 1 dc in each of the first 3-3-5 dc, 1 htr in next htr, 2 htr in next htr, 1 htr in next htr, 2 htr in next htr, 1 htr in next htr, 1 tr in each of the next 3-3-5 sts, (1 dtr, 1 ch, 1 dtr) in ch, 1 tr in each of the next 3-3-5 sts, 1 htr in next htr, 2 htr in next htr, 1 htr in next htr, 2 htr in next htr, 1 htr in next htr, 1 dc in each of the next 3-3-5 dc, * 1 dc in next st, skip 1 st, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 dc in next st and 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round. Cut the thread and change colour.
ROUND 3 (with medium pink): 3 ch, 1 tr in first dc, * skip 1 st, 2 tr in next st *, repeat from *-* a total of 6-6-8 times, then work 4 tr in 1 ch from previous row, skip 1 dtr, 2 tr in next st, repeat from *-* a total of 6-6-8 times, then work 2 tr in every ch and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 4: 3 ch, * between 2 tr-groups work 2 tr but wait with last pull through (= 3 loops on hook), pull thread through all loops *, repeat from *-* a total of 7-7-9 times, between the next 4 tr work 2 tr (= mid front of toe), then work from *-* a total of 7-7-9 times, then work 2 tr between every tr-group the rest of the round, finish with 1 tr and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 5: 3 ch, work 1 tr in each of the next 17-17-21 sts, then work 2 tr between tr-groups a total of 8-10-10 times, then work from *-* (as explained on 4th round) a total of 6-6-8 times, then work 2 tr between tr-groups a total of 8-10-10 times and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 6: 1 ch, then work 1 dc in every st the entire round (= 55-63-69 dc) and finish with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round.
ROUND 7: 1 ch * 1 dc in each of the next 2 sts but wait with last pull through (= 3 loops on hook), pull thread through all loops *, repeat from *-* a total of 9-9-11 times, then work 1 dc in each of the next 14-18-18 dc, then work from *-* a total of 4-4-5 times, then work 1 dc in each of the next 15-19-19 dc and finish with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round.
ROUND 8: 1 ch, then work 1 dc in every st the entire round (= 42-50-53 dc) and finish with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round.
ROUND 9: As 8th round.
Size 38/40 + 41/43: ROUND 10: As 8th round.
ALL SIZES: ROUND 10/11: 1 ch, then work from *-* (as explained on 7th round) a total of 2 times, then work 1 dc in each of the next 1-1-3 sts, then work from *-* a total of 2 times, then work 1 dc in each of the next 10-14-15 dc, then work from *-* a total of 6 times, then work 1 dc in each of the next 11-15-15 dc and finish with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round = 32-40-43 sts.
ROUND 11/12: 1 ch, 1 dc in each of the first 1-1-2 dc, * 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc but wait with last pull through (= 4 loops on hook), pull thread through all loops *, then work 1 dc in each of the next 12-16-18 sts, work from *-* 1 time, then work 1 dc in each of the next 13-17-17 sts and finish with 1 sl st in ch from beg round.
Cut and fasten the thread.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew tog mid under foot. Sew edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (34)

country flag Truida Jooste wrote:

I am struggling with this lace slipper pattern , Tippy Toes. Is their by any chance a diagram available

20.08.2023 - 19:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Jooste, there is only a written pattern to these slippers, make sure maybe you are following the appropriate English as UK- and US- English have different terminology for crochet, then follow each row step by step. Happy crocheting!

21.08.2023 - 09:19

country flag Geenisch wrote:

Ich verstehe in dieser Anleitung gar nichts. Luftmaschenanzahl stimmt schon mal nicht. Es geht nicht auf. Anstatt 60 Luftmaschen brauche ich 63 Luftmaschen. Die darauffolgenden Runden irritieren mich. Wo wann welche fm in fm? Wenn ich nach der Anleitung gehe komme ich keine Runden weiter. Ich häkle dann ständig in die gleiche fm ein?!

15.05.2021 - 10:30

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Geenisch, die ersten 4 Reihen werden nur über die ersten 7 Maschen gehäkelt, bei der 5. Reihe häkeln Sie an der Seite von den ersten 4 Reihen + 23 Luftmaschen (nach den 7 ersten gehäkelten M) + 7 Luftmaschen (bei der Ferse) + 23 Luftmaschen (bis die Anfang der Runde) = 7+23+7+23=60 Maschen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

17.05.2021 - 08:50

country flag Nathalie wrote:

Bonjour, Je rencontre une difficulté sur le tour 5 : si les 17-17-21 mailles doivent permettre de faire le tour de la pointe avant du chausson, j'ai beaucoup plus de mailles. Est-ce que je dois répartir/centrer ces 17-17-21 mailles au niveau de la pointe milieu devant ? De plus, le nombre total de mailles de ce tour n°5, ne me semble pas correspondre aux 55-63-69 mailles annoncées au tour 6. En vous remerciant, Cordialement.

04.11.2019 - 14:34

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nathalie, au 5ème tour, on crochète: 17-17-21 brides + 8-10-10 fois 2 brides entre les groupes de brides (= 16-20-20 brides) + 6-6-8 diminutions (= 6-8-8 brides) + 8-10-10 fois 2 brides (= 16-20-20 brides) = 17-17-21 + 16-20-20 + 6-8-8 + 16-20-20 = 55-65-69 brides. Bon crochet!

05.11.2019 - 08:22

country flag Carin wrote:

Varv 5 kan inte stämma?

14.04.2018 - 21:08

DROPS Design answered:

Vad exakt är det som inte stämmer?

17.04.2018 - 13:37

country flag Eva Lundberg wrote:

Hej, det ser verkligen ut att vara en söt toffel som jag vill göra, jag har läst igenom beskrivningen och undrar vilken färg "stövrosa" är? Sedan står det 9 OMG vilket jag antar betyder omgång men det verkar vara lite inkonsekvent. Det måste vara något jag inte förstår, kan ni vara snäll och förklara. Med vänlig hälsning Eva

12.10.2015 - 00:22

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Eva, visst är de söta! Du kan ändra språk i mönstret till Svenska, så är jag säker på att du forstår. Lycka till!

12.10.2015 - 11:04

country flag Sandra wrote:

Beste, ik heb een vraag betreft toer10/11; wat is de juiste volgorde van de haaksteken, snap het begin, 2 st van toer 7 maar wat wordt bedoelt met 3 st 2 keer dan 15 st 6 keer???? Zou u mij de juiste werkwijze kunnen mailen? Ik vind de beschrijving erg onduidelijk bij deze toer. Teveel *-* bij voorbaat dank.

24.07.2015 - 16:43

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Sandra. Elke keer dat er staat *-* herhaal je de werkwijze van *-* als uitgelegd in toer 7

28.07.2015 - 15:49

country flag Ida K B wrote:

Det er noe som ikke stemmer i 5. omg, her går det jo ikke opp, har mange masker igjennår det står jeg skal avslutte med en kj.m. i 3. løsmaske??? Ser at flere har samme problem, men jeg kan ikke heklespråket på engelsk så jeg forstår ikke hvordan dette løses...

06.02.2015 - 14:53

country flag Mack wrote:

Can't play Vimeo format videos on an android smartphone (at least not on mine).

27.06.2014 - 16:44

country flag Mack wrote:

Thx for video. Had just found it myself elsewhere on another site. Have finished slippers twice now & both the times, the seam on the bottom is not straight up & down in the middle but runs at like a 23-degree angle to the center opening or top of slipper. It's like the bottom keeps rotating wth every round. In your photo of slipper, it shows seam straight along bottom of foot. Which round am I going astray?

27.06.2014 - 16:40

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Mack, beg of round are not exactly mid under foot, make sure you are sewing mid under foot tog starting from mid back to mid front to get a straight seam. Happy crocheting!

28.06.2014 - 15:15

country flag Mack wrote:

Darn. I took pics to make it more clear where the prob is with round 5 but you don't allow posting of links in comments.

25.06.2014 - 23:20

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Mack, on round 4, you crochet 1 dc-group (like crochet 2dc tog) a total of 7 times (1 dc-group in space between 2 dc group from previous round), then work 2 dc between the 4 dc at toe. Happy crocheting!

26.06.2014 - 09:13