DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 0.90 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.90£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 127-7
DROPS design: Pattern no E-171
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials: DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
Colour no 18, off white:
550-600-650-700-800-850 g

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3 mm – or size needed to get 4 repetitions = width 10 cm.

DROPS GOLD METAL BUTTONS, NO 530: 5 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 0.90 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.90£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Replace first tr on every row with 3 ch.

TR-GROUP:
In same st work: 2 tr, 2 ch, 2 tr.

PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 – M.4.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 or ½ repetition - see M.2 and M.3.
Dec at beg of row as follows:
Replace 1 repetition with 6 sl st and ½ repetition with 3 sl st.
Dec at end of row as follows:
Turn piece when either 1 or ½ repetition remains.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sleeve):
Inc ½ repetition. Inc by turning with 5 ch instead of 3 ch. On next row, work ½ repetition over the extra 2 ch – see M.4.
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BACK PIECE:
Work 118-130-142-154-166-178 ch (incl 6 ch to turn with) on hook size 3 mm with Safran. Work 1 tr-group – see explanation – in the 7th ch from hook, skip 2 ch, 1 tr in next ch, * skip 2 ch, 1 tr-group in next ch, skip 2 ch, 1 tr in next ch *, repeat from *-* (18-20-22-24-26-28 times). Continue to work M.1 (1st row is now done, beg on 2nd row) = 19-21-23-25-27-29 repetitions. When piece measures 10 and 20 cm, dec ½ repetition in each side – read Decrease tip = 17-19-21-23-25-27 repetitions. When piece measures 51-52-53-54-55-56 cm, dec for armhole in each side on every row as follows – read Decrease tip: 1 repetition a total of 1-1-2-2-2-2 times, then ½ repetition 0-2-2-2-4-4 times = 15-15-15-17-17-19 repetitions. When piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm, divide the piece for neck and finish each shoulder separately.

RIGHT SHOULDER:
Start in the side and work in towards the middle. Work pattern over the first 6-6-6-6-6-7 repetitions, on next row dec 1 repetition towards the neck, 5-5-5-5-5-6 repetitions remain for shoulder. Cut and fasten the thread, piece measures approx. 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm.

LEFT SHOULDER:
Work as right shoulder but reversed.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work 64-70-76-82-88-94 ch (incl 6 ch to turn with) on hook size 3 mm with Safran. 1st row = RS: Beg from mid front and work towards the side. Work 1 tr-group in the 7th ch from hook, skip 2 ch, 1 tr in next ch, * skip 2 ch, 1 tr-group in next ch, skip 2 ch, 1 tr in next ch *, repeat from *-* (9-10-11-12-13-14 times). Continue to work M.1 (1st row is now done, beg on 2nd row) = 10-11-12-13-14-15 repetitions. When piece measures 15 and 25 cm, dec in the side (end of row from RS) as on back piece = 9-10-11-12-13-14 repetitions. When piece measures 51-52-53-54-55-56 cm, dec for armhole in the side as on back piece while AT THE SAME TIME dec for neck on every other row towards mid front as follows: Dec ½ repetition a total of 6-6-6-8-8-8 times. After all dec, 5-5-5-5-5-6 repetitions remain for shoulder. Continue to work until piece measures 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm, cut and fasten the thread.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as right front piece. 1st row = from WS.

SLEEVE:
Work sleeve back and forth. Work 65-65-72-72-79-79 ch (incl 3 ch to turn with) on hook size 3 mm with Safran. Work 1 tr in the 4th ch from hook, * 1 tr in each of the next 6 ch, skip 1 ch *, repeat from *-*, and finish with 1 tr in each of the last 5 ch = 55-55-61-61-67-67 tr. Work 1 tr in every tr until piece measures 6 cm – see CROCHET INFO, now work M.1. (Work first row in M.1 as follows: 3 ch in 1st tr, * skip 2 tr, 1 tr-group in next tr, skip 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr*, repeat from *-*) = 9-9-10-10-11-11 repetitions. When piece measures 15-18-18-18-18-18 cm, inc ½ repetition in each side, repeat on every 8th-4th-4th-4th-4th-4th row a total of 4-6-6-6-6-6 times - Read INCREASE TIP = 13-15-16-16-17-17 repetitions. When piece measures 48-47-47-46-46-45 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and broader shoulder width), dec 1 repetition in each side for sleeve cap. Then dec ½ repetition in each side on every other row a total of 0-0-0-0-2-2 times then on every row a total of 6-7-8-8-6-6 times = 5-6-6-6-7-7 repetitions – read Decrease tip. Work until piece measures 57-57-58-58-59-59 cm, cut and fasten the thread.

POCKETS:
Work 44 ch (incl 3 ch to turn with) on hook size 3 mm with Safran. Work 1 tr in the 4th ch from hook, * 1 tr in each of the next 6 ch, skip 1 ch *, repeat from *-*, and finish with 1 tr in each of the last 5 ch = 37 tr. Work 1 tr in every tr back and forth until piece measures 12 cm. Then work edge as follows: Work 1 dc, * skip 2 cm, 4 dtr in next tr, 2 ch, 4 dtr in same tr, skip 2 cm, 1 dc in next tr *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times. Continue to work an edge around the rest of the pocket as follows: 1 dc, * 2 ch, skip ½ cm, 1 dc *, repeat from *-* down along the side, along the bottom and up the other side. Cut and fasten the thread, work another pocket.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams tog. Sew in sleeves. Sew sleeve and side seams in one - sew edge to edge with neat, little stitches.
Sew the pockets on each front piece, approx. 10 cm from bottom edge on jacket and approx. 4 cm from front edge, sew with neat little stitches.

CROCHET BORDER:
Work edge from WS of jacket. Work an edge on hook size 3 mm with Safran up along left front piece, around the neckline, down along right front piece, around the edge at the bottom and then around the sleeves as follows: Work 1 dc, * skip 2 cm, 4 dtr in next ch, 2 ch, 4 dtr in same st, skip 2 cm, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-*.
AT THE SAME TIME work 5 button loops along the edge of right front piece as follows: Work first loop 2-4 cm after neck dec (measured from top). Make the loop between two dtr-loops (i.e 1 dtr-loop = * skip 2 cm, 4 dtr in next ch, 2 ch, 4 dtr in same st, skip 2 cm, 1 dc in next st *), so after the dc in next st, work 12 ch, 1 dc in same st.
Continue with crochet edge as before with two dtr-loops between each button loop until 5 loops have been worked.

BUTTONS:
Work covers for 5 buttons on hook size 3 mm with Safran as follows:
Work 2 ch, then work 16 tr in the first of the 2 ch worked, finish with 1 sl st at top of first tr (= 1st round).
2nd round: Work 1 dc in every tr and finish with 1 sl st in first dc on round.
3rd round: Work 1 tr in every other dc and finish with 1 sl st in first tr on round = 8 tr.
Place the button in the cover, sew around the edge, tighten tog and fasten the thread. Sew buttons on to left front piece.


Diagram

symbols = ch
symbols = tr
symbols = Tr-group: in same st work: 2 tr, 2 ch, 2 tr
symbols = sl st
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (115)

country flag Patty wrote:

Is there a tutorial video?

22.01.2024 - 04:09

country flag Nicole wrote:

In the pattern for the Up North Cardigan DROPS 127-7, the instructions states TR-GROUP, what does this stand for? Also, in the diagram, what is 1-rad, 2-rad and 1 rapport? If rad means row, then what do I crochet in the first 3 chains, after I crochet the ch 3 at the beginning of row 1? Thank you so much for the answers.

22.09.2023 - 01:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Nicole, 1 tr-group (UK-English terminology) is when you work in the same stitch: 2 treble crochets, 2 chain stitches, 2 treble crochets (see TR-GROUP; "rad" means "row" - the arrows show the crochet direction on 1st and 2nd row in M.1. Happy crocheting!

22.09.2023 - 07:59

country flag Mona Pasch wrote:

Guten tag, ich verstehe diese Zeilen nicht ganz: "Nach 51-52-53-54-55-56 cm auf beiden Seiten bei jeder Reihe abnehmen - siehe TIPP ZUM ABNEHMEN: 1-1-2-2-2-2 x 1 Rapport, danach 0-2-2-2-4-4 x ½ Rapport = 15-15-15-17-17-19 Rapporte." Ich verstehe es so: Zb Größe M= 1. Reihe nach 52 cm 1 Rapport auf beiden Seiten abnehmen, 2. Reihe halber Rapport jede Seite abnehmen, 3. Reihe halber Rapport je Seite abnehmen. Danach normal weiter häkeln ohne Abnahme. Ist das richtig so?

11.09.2023 - 11:51

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Pasch, ja genauso sollen Sie häkeln. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

11.09.2023 - 13:55

country flag Marga Hoogeboom wrote:

Bij de achterkant staat: minder bij een hoogte van 10 en 20 cm 1/5 patroonherhaling. Bij de voor panden moet je dat pas bij 15 en 20 cm doen. Klopt dat wel?

21.07.2023 - 22:45

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Marga,

Dat klopt. Dit is bewust gedaan, zodat je op verschillende hoogtes mindert. Hierdoor voorkom je een grote verspring als je de zijnaden in elkaar naait.

24.07.2023 - 20:10

country flag Margriet wrote:

Hoe Haak ik het 2e voorpand. Wat wordt er bedoeld met 1e toer is aan de verkeerde kant

17.06.2023 - 17:36

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Margriet,

Je hakt het linker voorpand op dezelfde manier als het rechter voorpand, dus na het haken van de lossen haak je de eerste toer op dezelfde manier. Omdat het linker voorpand gespiegeld is aan het rechter voorpand is de eerste toer aan de verkeerde kant, de tweede toer aan de goede kant, en zo verder.

18.06.2023 - 11:52

country flag Therese wrote:

I don't understand what it means when it says, "when the piece measures 10 and 20cm". How can it measure 10 and 20 cm? does that mean 10cm high and 20cm wide? It doesn't make sense to me.

02.05.2023 - 04:24

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Therese, This means a half repeat of the pattern is decreased when the piece measures 10 cm and again when the piece measures 20 cm. Happy crocheting!

02.05.2023 - 06:42

country flag Helle With Pedersen wrote:

Hi, I don't understand this: When piece measures 10 and 20 cm / 4'' and 8", dec ½ repetition in each side I am crocheting the size XL. Should I do the 25 rep (back) and then decrease? Or should I decrease when the piece is 10 cm (not finisihing the 25 rep before decreasing)? Note: The pattern says TR-Group and not DC-group.

03.01.2023 - 10:40

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Pedersen, you should decrease at the beg of row + at the end of the same row as explained under DECREASE TIP: or as shown in M.3 (= 1/2 repeat) - note that 1 dc in US English is 1 tr in UK-English, just make sure to follow the appropriate language since terminology is different. Happy crocheting!

03.01.2023 - 11:55

country flag Bruggeman Rita wrote:

Hoe komt het dat mijn haakwerk in het midden minder lang meet dan aan de zijkant.en op welke meting moet ik mij dan richten? Grtz rita

18.05.2022 - 10:49

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Rita,

Het werk heeft op verschillende plekken een verschillende hoogte. Dat komt omdat je afkant voor de mouwen en later voor de schouder. Als je de rechter schouder af hebt meet het werk 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm op het langste punt, dus vanaf de opzet tot de bovenkant van de schouder. Op het moment dat je mindert voor het armsgat zou de hoogte midden achter en aan de zijkant wel hetzelfde moeten zijn. Kan het zijn dat je het werk aan de zijkant wat te strak haakt of juist te los?

19.05.2022 - 20:55

country flag Antonique Aarden wrote:

Bij de eerste toer van het achterpand heb je 26 patroonherhalingen Bij toer 2 moet je 27 patroonherhalingen krijgen ik snap niet hoe bij mij blijft het 26

07.11.2021 - 15:46

country flag Kelly wrote:

Hallo, ik zou deze trui graag haken in Drops Belle (maat S), is dit mogelijk? Aangezien het een andere garengroep is. Hoeveel bolletjes zou ik dan nodig hebben van Drops Belle? Mvg, Kelly

28.06.2021 - 09:09

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Kelly,

Als je kiest voor een andere garengroep, zou je het patroon aan moeten passen op basis van de andere stekenverhouding (maak altijd even een proeflapje). Hierbij moet je dan ook rekening houden met het aantal patroonherhalingen e.d., dus best wel even puzzelen. Als je gewoon het patroon wilt kunnen volgen, kun je dus het beste een garen uit dezelfde groep uitkiezen en zorgen dat je dezelfde stekenverhouding hebt als in het patroon.

28.06.2021 - 11:32