DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Prairie Song

Knitted DROPS jacket with lace pattern and round yoke in "Alpaca". Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 127-13
DROPS design: Pattern no Z-544
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
Colour no 3112, powder pink:
300-350-350-400-450-500 g

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 3 mm - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm. And 24 sts x 45 rows with pattern on yoke = 10 x 10 cm.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 2.5 mm - for edges.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON w/holes, NO 521: 7-7-8-8-8-8 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 to M.3. The diagram shows the pattern from RS. NOTE! See diagram M.3C for size!

BUTTON HOLES:
Cast off for button holes on right front band.
1 BUTTON HOLE = cast off 4th st from edge. On next row cast on 1 new st over the cast off st.
Cast off for button holes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 2, 11, 19, 28, 36, 45 and 54 cm
SIZE M: 2, 11, 20, 29, 38, 47 and 56 cm
SIZE L: 2, 10, 18, 26, 34, 42, 50 and 58 cm
SIZE XL: 2, 10, 18, 27, 35, 43, 51 and 60 cm
SIZE XXL: 2, 11, 19, 28, 36, 45, 53 and 62 cm
SIZE XXXL:2, 11, 20, 29, 38, 47, 56 and 64 cm
I.e. approx. 2 cm remain until finished measurements after last button hole.

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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front.
Cast on 199-219-239-259-289-319 sts (incl 6 band sts each side towards mid front) on circular needle 2.5 mm with Alpaca. Work first row from RS as follows: 6 band sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above, repeat M.1 and finish with 6 band sts in GARTER ST. Continue the pattern like this - NOTE: On 7th row in M.1 K last st before band. REMEMBER BUTTON HOLES ON BAND - see explanation above. After M.1 switch to circular needle size 3 mm and work next row from RS as follows: 6 band sts as before, 1 st in stocking st, M.2A until 12 sts remain, finish with M.2B (= 6 sts) and 6 band sts as before. Continue the pattern like this. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Insert 2 markers in the piece after 53-58-63-68-75-83 sts each side = 93-103-113-123-139-153 sts between markers on back piece. When piece measures 8-8-9-9-10-10 cm, inc 1 st each side of both markers (= 4 sts inc). Repeat the inc every 6 cm a total of 5 times = 219-239-259-279-309-339 sts - NOTE: Work inc sts in stocking st until they can be worked in pattern each side. When piece measures approx. 37-38-39-40-41-42 cm - adjust so that next row is worked from RS and so that 3 or 5 rows in stocking st are worked after 1 row with lace pattern - cast off 10-10-10-12-12-12 sts each side for armholes (i.e. 5-5-5-6-6-6 sts both sides of markers) = 93-103-113-121-137-151 sts on back piece and 53-58-63-67-74-82 sts on each front piece. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 56-56-58-60-62-64 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with Alpaca. Work M.1. Insert a marker at beg of round (= mid under sleeve). After M.1 switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm and work next round as follows: 0-0-1-2-3-4 sts in stocking st, M.2A until 6-6-7-8-9-10 sts remain, finish with M.2B (= 6 sts) and 0-0-1-2-3-4 sts in stocking st. Continue like this. When piece measures 8-9-8-9-7-12 cm, inc 2 sts mid under sleeve. Repeat inc every 3½-2½-2½-2-2-1½ cm a total of 10-13-14-16-17-18 times = 76-82-86-92-96-100 sts - NOTE: Work inc sts in stocking st until they can be worked in pattern. When piece measures approx. 43-43-42-42-41-41 cm (NOTE! Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and broader shoulder width) - adjust so that same no of rounds in stocking st have been worked after 1 round with lace pattern as on body - cast off 10-10-10-12-12-12 sts mid under sleeve (i.e. 5-5-5-6-6-6 sts each side of marker) = 66-72-76-80-84-88 sts. Slip sts on a stitch holder and knit another sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were cast off = 331-363-391-415-453-491 sts. Work 1-1-1-1-1-3 rows in stocking st (1st row = P from WS and work bands in garter st as before until finished measurements) while AT THE SAME TIME dec 10-14-14-10-6-2 sts evenly (do not dec over bands) = 321-349-377-405-447-489 sts. Work next row from RS as follows: 6 band sts, M.3A over the next 308-336-364-392-434-476 sts (1 repetition = 14 sts), finish with first st in M.3A and 6 band sts. Continue the pattern like this. NOTE: On 7th row in M.3A K last st before band. After M.3A, 299-325-351-377-416-455 sts remain on needle. Now work M.3B with 6 band sts each side - finish with row before arrow in your size (i.e. finish after K 1 row from WS). After M.3B, 299-325-351-349-385-421 sts remain on needle. Work next row from RS as follows - see diagram for correct size: 6 band sts, M.3C until 7 sts remain (1 repetition = 13-13-13-12-12-12 sts), finish with first st in M.3C and 6 band sts - NOTE: On the rows that start with K 2 tog at beg of 1 repetition, K last st before band. Continue the pattern like this. After M.3C, 145-157-169-181-199-217 sts remain on needle.

NECKLINE:
Switch to circular needle 2.5 and work M.1 with 6 band sts each side (on 7th row K last st before band) - AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row dec 26-34-42-50-64-76 sts evenly (do not dec over bands) = 119-123-127-131-135-141 sts. After M.1 loosely cast off with K from RS.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves. Sew on buttons.


This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 28.04.2011
New diagram M.2 has been added.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = 1 Bobble: Work 5 sts in this st by
working alternately in front and back loop of stitch, turn piece. Work 4 rows in stocking st over these 5 sts. Then slip 2nd st on right needle over 1st st, then slip 3rd st over 1st st, then 4th st of 1st st and finally 5th st over 1st st (= 1 st remain)
symbols = K2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
symbols = P2 tog
symbols = P2 twisted tog (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front)
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (39)

country flag Elinor Poulsen wrote:

Hej. Jeg skal til at strikke M.3C str. M. Der står at 1 rapport er 13 m, men når jeg skal starte på første række skal jeg strikke 2 m sammen. Så bliver rapporten på 12 m. Hvad er rigtig? Håber på hurtig svar. MVH Elinor

21.06.2023 - 21:16

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Elinor, jo, du behøver 13 masker når du starter med rapporten, når du har strikket de 2 første masker sammen i starten af hver rapport, har du 12 masker og det er hvad du skal bruge de næste 10 pinde i højden :)

22.06.2023 - 14:45

country flag Francine Bauch wrote:

While knitting the yoke section(size M) I understand the 1st 14st decrease before working M3A. How do you decrease stitches on needle from 349st to finally having 325 at the end of M3A pattern? TY for your help

24.01.2022 - 04:42

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Francine, If you are working size M you have 325 stitches at the end of M.3A due to the decrease in row 11 in the diagram where 2 stitches are knitted together. As you work M.3A over 336 stitches and each repeat is 14 stitches, you have 24 repeats and 24 stitches decreased , which leaves you with 325 stitches in total. Happy knitting!

24.01.2022 - 08:01

country flag Beata wrote:

Dlaczego po przerobieniu schematu M3A zostaje nam 325 oczek (rozmiar M) z 336? Gdzie się redukuje te 11 oczek?

26.11.2021 - 12:02

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Beato, wychodzisz od 349 oczek. Następnie wykonujesz oczka brzegowe i 1-sze oczko schematu (13 o.) i powtarzasz schemat M.3A ponad 336 oczkami (=349). W przedostatnim rzędzie schematu zamykasz 1 oczko w każdym z 24 powtórzeń schematu, przerabiając na końcu 2 oczka razem na prawo > 349-24=325 oczek. Pozdrawiamy!

26.11.2021 - 12:31

country flag R Bosman wrote:

Patroon Prairie Song: Voor de mouw 4 steken in tricotsteek M.2A tot 10 steken over zijn en eindig met M.2B (=6st) en 4 st in tricotst.: Wat wordt hiermee bedoeld? Rond breien is toch altijd tricotsteek?

01.05.2020 - 21:38

DROPS Design answered:

Dag R Bosman,

Er wordt mee bedoeld dat je 4 steken in tricotsteek moet breien voordat je M.2b breit. Dus het gaat met name om het aantal steken.

Overigens is het niet perse zo dat rondbreien altijd in tricotsteek is. Als je de ene naald recht en de andere naald averecht breit, heb je ribbelsteek in de rondte.

05.05.2020 - 12:38

country flag Lisa Lebrija wrote:

Hej Drops Da første pind efter opslagning ikke er en retside pind, men en vrangside p, hvad skal jeg så strikke på den pind?

30.05.2018 - 17:23

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lisa, du kan bruge første side/pind som retsiden, men hvis du ikke vil det så strikker du bare en pind ret, så du kommer om på den anden side. God fornøjelse!

31.05.2018 - 08:17

country flag Anita N Myhre wrote:

Kan man strikke dette mønster på rundpinne (selvfølgelig legge til klippemasker) og så klippe opp? Er spent på det partiet med blader.

07.05.2018 - 09:37

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Anita. Vi har ikke mulighet til å skirve om oppskriften så den passer til å strikkes rundt, men det er selvfølgelig ikke noe i veien for at du prøver deg på det selv. God fornøyelse

07.05.2018 - 14:33

Ula wrote:

Jaka jest szansa żeby ten wzór był przetłumaczony na jęz. Polski ?

06.02.2018 - 12:50

country flag Danielle Rouellé wrote:

Je suis en train de réaliser le modèle Praierie song 127-13 J'en suis rendue à l'empiècement. Je vois que si j'additionneM3A 24 rangs + M3B 24 rangs + M3C 108 rangs + M1 24 rangs, j'arrive à 180 rangs soit une hauteur de 40cm, c'est à dire le double de celle indiquée sur le schéma. Pourriez vous m'aider car si près de la fin , je bloque sur ce qui fait toute la beauté de cet ouvrage. Je compte donc sur vous et vous en remercie d'avance. Cordialement.

17.10.2017 - 15:38

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Rouellé, tous les rangs des points fantaisie sont indiqués dans le diagramme, c'est-à-dire que M.3A = 12 rangs et non 24 (idem pour les autres diagrammes). La tension pour le point fantaisie de l'empiècement doit être de 45 rangs = 10 cm (et 32 rangs jersey = 10 cm), si vous aviez/avez bien cette tension, vous devriez avoir la bonne hauteur pour empiècement. Bon tricot!

17.10.2017 - 15:52

country flag Ragnhild Norén wrote:

127-13 Hej! Jag är på oket nu. Undrar när och hur många maskor som ska minskas. I början minskas det 28 m 2 ggr. Och sen på slutet ska 168m bort. Men när och var ska dessa maskor minskas? Har upprepade ggr ringt Garnaffären men de vet inte heller. Frustrerad! Mvh Ragnhild.

08.09.2017 - 11:10

DROPS Design answered:

Hej, det minskas maskor i varje rapport i mönstret. Följer du bara diagrammen så ska det bli riktigt maskantal.

08.09.2017 - 14:03

country flag Kristine Henriksen wrote:

Jeg kan ikke læse mig frem til, hvor mange pinde, der skal strikkes i M1 på hhv. jakke og ærme. Jeg synes bare der står "Efter M1..." Men hvornår er det?

30.06.2016 - 15:45

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Kristine. Du skal afslutte M.1 = 12 pinde i höjden. Saa efter M.1 strikker du videre iflg. opskriften

06.07.2016 - 14:53