DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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DROPS 126-17
DROPS design: Pattern no ME-031
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE
550-600-700-750-800-900 g colour no 22, light purple

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4 mm - or size needed to get 18 tr x 9 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON W/HOLE, NO 522, 3 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 and M.2. In M.1 beg on row marked with 1 in diagram, then repeat row 2 to 5. In M.2 beg on row marked with 2 in diagram.
THE SIDE:
At the side work tr/dc as shown in diagram M.1A and M.1D, i.e. on row 1 and 5 in diagram work dc, on row 2, 3, and 4 work tr. Marker sits in st mid each side.
DECREASING TIP:
Work 1 tr, but wait with last pull-through (= 2 sts on hook), work next tr, but when doing the last pull through pull thread through all sts on hook – 1 dec tr.
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JACKET:
Work 155-167-183-199-227-247 LOOSE ch with crochet hook size 4 mm with Merino. Turn piece. Skip first ch, then work 1 dc in each ch to end = 154-166-182-198-226-246 dc. Insert a marker 39-42-46-50-57-62 dc in from each side (back piece = 76-82-90-98-112-122 dc). Continue as follows (beg on row 1 in diagram):
M.1A, repeat M.1B 2-2-2-2-3-3 times, M.1C, 4-10-18-26-16-26 dc/tr at the side - see above -, repeat M.1B 5-5-5-5-7-7 times, M.1C, 4-10-18-26-16-26 dc/tr at the side, repeat M.1B 2-2-2-2-3-3 times, M.1C and M.1D.
Continue like this until piece measures approx 15-15-16-16-17-17 cm. Now inc 1 dc/tr each side of both markers 1 time. Inc by working 2 dc/tr in 1 dc/tr each side of both markers (= a total of 4 inc dc/tr). Now continue as before until piece measures approx 35-36-37-38-39-40 cm (adjust to after a full repeat).
Cut the thread. Now divide piece and complete each piece separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 3-6-10-14-9-14 dc/tr each side.
Beg inside 2-3-7-11-6-11 dc/tr. Work 1-3-3-3-3-3 dc/tr, repeat M.1B 5-5-5-5-5-7-7 times, M.1C and 1-3-3-3-3-3-3 dc/tr (3-4-8-12-7-12 dc/tr remain), turn piece. Continue in pattern as before until 0-1-1-1-1-1 dc/tr remain, turn piece. Continue in pattern as before until 0-1-1-1-1-1 dc/tr remain, turn piece. Continue in pattern as before until 0-1-1-1-1-1 dc/tr remain, turn piece. Continue in pattern as before until 0-1-1-1-1-1 dc/tr remain. There is now 1 dc/tr each side. Continue back and forth in pattern as before and 1 dc/tr each side.
When piece measures approx 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm (adjust to after a full repeat) divide piece for neck and complete each shoulder separately.

RIGHT SHOULDER:
Beg at the side. Work the 1 dc/tr at the side, repeat M.1B 1-1-1-1-2-2 times, M.1C and 1 dc/tr. Continue like this until repeat is completed. Piece now measures approx 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm.

LEFT SHOULDER:
Like right shoulder but mirrored, (i.e. 2 repeats mid back = neck).

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 3-6-10-14-9-14 dc/tr at the side.
Beg mid front and crochet as follows:
M.1A, repeat M.1B 2-2-2-2-3-3 times, M.1C and 1-3-3-3-3-3 dc/tr (2-3-7-11-6-11 dc dc/tr remain at the side). Turn piece. Continue in pattern as before. Turn piece. Continue in pattern as before until 0-1-1-1-1-1 dc/tr remain at the side, turn piece. Continue in pattern as before, turn piece. Continue in pattern as before until 0-1-1-1-1-1-1 dc/tr remain at the side, turn piece. Continue in pattern as before. There is now 1 dc/tr at the side.
Continue back and forth in pattern as before.
AT THE SAME TIME after 1 vertical repeat after dividing the piece dec for neck. Continue from RS as follows: M.2 A, M.2 B, M.1B 1-1-1-1-2-2 times, M.1C, M.1D. When all dec for armhole and neck are complete continue as follows – from mid front:
M.1A, M.1B 1-1-1-1-2-2 times, M.1C and M.1D. Continue like this until piece measures approx 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm (adjust to number of repeats on back piece). Cut and fasten thread.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Like right front piece but mirrored.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams. Sew edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam.

SLEEVE EDGES:
Crochet an edge round armhole with crochet hook size 4 mm and Merino as follows:
ROW 1: Beg mid under sleeve. Work dc all the way round and finish with 1 sl st in dc from beg of round.
ROW 2: 3 ch, then 1 tr in each dc to end and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round (adjust so that no of sts is divisible by 3).
ROW 3: 1 dc, * 3 ch, 1 tr in the first of the 3 ch, skip 2 tr, 1 dc in next tr *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in dc from beg of round. Cut and fasten thread.
Repeat round the other armhole.

BORDER ROUND BODY PIECE:
Crochet a border round body piece with crochet hook size 4 mm with Merino. Beg at the bottom on right front piece, continue up along front piece, round neck, down along left front piece and along bottom edge. Work ROW 1 and 2 as described for armhole. On ROW 3 finish with 1 sl st at the bottom on right front piece. Cut and fasten thread.

SLEEVES:
Worked back and forth.
Work 48-48-50-52-54-56 LOOSE ch with crochet hook size 4 mm and Merino. Turn piece. Work 1 tr in 4th ch, and then 1 tr in each ch to end = 46-46-48-50-52-54 tr. Continue back and forth with 1 tr in each tr (replace first tr on each row with 3 ch). When piece measures approx 6 cm inc 1 tr each side by working 2 tr in outermost tr each side. Repeat the inc on every 6-5-4-3.5-3-2.5 cm a total of 7-9-10-11-13-14 times = 60-64-68-72-78-82 tr. Continue back and forth until piece measures 49-49-48-47-46-44 cm. Cut the thread. Now skip the first 6-6-6-6-8-8 tr on next row. Work 1 tr in each of the next 48-52-56-60-62-66 tr, turn piece (i.e. 6-6-6-6-8-8 tr remain the other side). Now dec 1 tr each side on every row by working the 2 outermost tr each side tog – See DECREASING TIP! Repeat on every row a total of 4-5-7-9-6-8 times = 40-42-42-42-50-50 tr. Cut the thread. Skip the first 6-6-6-6-8-8 tr, work 1 tr in each of the next 28-30-30-30-34-34 tr (i.e. 6-6-6-6-8-8 tr remain the other side). Cut and fasten thread.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew under arm seams. Sew edge to edge with neat sts to avoid a chunky seam. Set in sleeves under sleeve edge. Sew 3 buttons on left front piece, the top one just under neck and the remaining with approx 8 cm between each. Use the tr on right front piece as buttonholes.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 03.09.2010
BORDER ROUND BODY PIECE:.....On ROW 3 finish with 1 sl st at the bottom on right front piece.

Diagram

symbols = dc
symbols = ch
symbols = Picot: 3 ch, 1 tr in the first of the 3 ch, skip 2 dc/tr.
symbols = tr
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (25)

country flag Aafke Oosterkamp wrote:

Hallo, ik snap het nog steeds niet. Heb her en der ook al gevraagd,maar we komen er niet uit. Kan ik via de telefoon kontakt krijgen om het begin van het minderen door te nemen? eea kan dan via mijn mail om tel. nummer door te geven.

23.09.2014 - 20:51

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Aafke. Ik kan je niet meer hulp bieden dan dit. Wil je meer uitgebreide ondersteuning op de gratis patronen, dan moet je naar de winkel waar ze persoonlijke hulp kunnen bieden.

24.09.2014 - 16:48

country flag Aafke Oosterkamp wrote:

Ik ben tot het begin van het achterpand van maat 40. Ik haak eerst 3 stokjes dan het begin van het patroon en op het eind weer 3 stokjes: hoe kom ik dan aan 4 zoals in het patroon staat? daarna staat er Ga verder in patroon als hiervoor tot er 1 stokje over is. Dit staat er een paar keer in. Moet ik dan ergens minderen? Moet ik de 3 stokjes meenemen of hierin minderen???

13.09.2014 - 20:34

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Aafke. Je moet inderdaad minderen. Je hebt 6 v/stk aan beide zijkanten aan het begin. Je moet nu beginnen met haken na de eerste 3 v/stk. Haak dan de volgende 3 v/stk, herhaal dan M.1B 5 keer, M.1C één keer en eindig met 3 v/stk. Je zou dan 4 v/stk over moeten hebben van de vorige toer. Je haakt nu terug op dezelfde manier tot er 1 stk over is, keer en haak terug (= Je hebt nu 1 stk gemindert). Je gaat zo door en mindert op deze manier aan het eind van elke toer voor het armsgat.

18.09.2014 - 17:17

country flag Bertha Hop wrote:

Hallo, sorry maar ik haak nu voor het eerst een vest . Dus ik moet het patroon opdelen . Maar het wordt toch aan één stuk gehaakt ? Dus geen zijnaden ? Gr b hop

15.01.2013 - 18:30

DROPS Design answered:

Ja, zo kan je het zien. Bijv. haak je maat S en volgt het patroon dan haak je zo: Je hebt 76 v. (begin met toer 1 in het telpatroon): M.1A (dwz, één herhaling), herhaal M.1B 2 keer, M.1C (één keer), 4 v/stk aan de zijkant, herhaal M.1B 5 keer, M.1C (één keer), 4 v/stk aan de zijkant, herhaal M.1B 2 keer, M.1C (één keer) en eindig met M.1D één keer.

16.01.2013 - 16:21

country flag Bertha Hop wrote:

Hallo, ik begrijp niet goed de term m1a , m1c,of m1d. Kunt u mij dat uitleggen? B.v.d. gr. B hop

15.01.2013 - 14:43

DROPS Design answered:

Dat zijn de teltekeningen. Kijk onderaan het patroon. Teltekening M.1 is opgedeelt in 4 delen: M.1A, M.1B, M.1C en M.1B. Volg de beschrijving en haak de verschillende delen zoals beschreven.

15.01.2013 - 16:51

country flag Nida wrote:

What does dc / tr means

27.12.2012 - 00:26

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Nida, dc means double crochet, tr means treble. When it says to work tr/dc, it means to work the sts either tr or dc as they should be. Happy crocheting !

29.12.2012 - 18:03

country flag Annie wrote:

Vil rigtig gerne hækle denne model, men må for første gang opgive at finde ud af en opskrift. Det ville være rart med en skrevet beskrivelse af hæklemønstret over et antal m, i stedet for et diagram der ikke fungerer.

25.11.2012 - 10:34

country flag Margriet wrote:

Welke maat heb ik nodig voor kledingmaat 42. Dank.

16.11.2012 - 14:39

DROPS Design answered:

U bent dan ongeveer XL. Kijk onderaan het patroon. Hier vindt u een maattekening met de afmetingen in cm.

16.11.2012 - 17:05

country flag Margriet wrote:

Welke maat heb ik nodig? Mijn kledingmaat is 42. Dank.

16.11.2012 - 14:37

country flag Andrea wrote:

Deze gilet is uitermate prachtig!

10.06.2012 - 18:24

country flag Sanne wrote:

Nu virker det. Og jeg laver picotmasken som i beskriver. Så nu glæder jeg mig til at se det færdige resultat.

13.02.2011 - 15:35