DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Frilly Julliet

Knitted DROPS sleeveless top in garter st and lace pattern in ”Alpaca”. Size S-XXXL.

DROPS 118-18
DROPS design: Pattern no Z-485

Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
250-250-250-300-350-350 g colour no 0100, eco off-white

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) size 3 mm - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) size 2.5 mm - or size needed to get 24 sts x 48 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS SILVER BUTTON no 534: 3 pcs. for all sizes.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.
PATTERN:
See diagram M.1, M.2 and M.3. Diagrams show the pattern from RS.
DECREASING TIP:
Dec 1 st by K2 tog. Dec to the right and to the left of st with marker alternately.
BUTTONHOLES:
Make buttonholes on right front band. 1 BUTTONHOLE = cast off 5th st from mid front and cast on 1 new st on next row.
Make buttonholes when piece measures:
Size S and M: 31, 34 and 37 cm.
Size L and XL: 33, 36 and 39 cm.
Size XXL and XXXL: 33, 37 and 41 cm.
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TOP:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 251-273-295-339-383-427 sts on circular needle size 3 mm with Alpaca. K 2 rows and continue as follows from RS: 8 GARTER STS - see above, * M.1 (= 15 sts) - see above, 7 garter sts *, repeat from *-* until 23 sts remain, finish with M.1 and 8 garter sts. After 1 vertical repeat of M.1 there are 229-249-269-309-349-389 sts on needle. Work next row from RS as follows: 8 garter sts,* M.2 (= 13 sts), 7 garter sts *, repeat from *-* until 21 sts remain, finish with M.2 and 8 garter sts. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! After 1 vertical repeat of M.2 work next row from RS as follows: 8 garter sts, * M.3 (= 13 sts), 7 garter sts *, repeat from *-* until 21 sts remain, finish with M.3 and 8 garter sts. Insert a marker in the 4th of the 7 garter sts between each repeat = 10-11-12-14-16-18 markers. Continue in M.3 and garter st as before, AT THE SAME TIME on first row in the next repeat dec 1 st to the right of all markers – see DECREASING TIP! (= 10-11-12-14-16-18 dec). Repeat the dec to the left and to the right alternately on the first row of M.3 a total of 4 times for all sizes = 189-205-221-253-285-317 sts. After a total of 8 vertical repeats of M.3 change to circular needle size 2.5 mm. Piece now measures approx 33 cm.
NOW READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING:
On next row from RS continue in garter st on all sts, AT THE SAME TIME inc 4-4-8-4-0-0 sts evenly on needle = 193-209-229-257-285-317 sts. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 31-31-33-33-33-33 cm make BUTTONHOLES on right front band – see above! Insert 2 markers in piece, 52-56-61-68-75-83 sts in from each side (back piece = 89-97-107-121-135-151 sts).

When piece measures 35 cm for all sizes inc 1 st each side of both markers, and repeat the inc on every 1-1-1-3-3-3 cm a total of 4-4-4-3-3-3 times = 209-225-245-269-297-329 sts. Continue in garter st on all sts. When piece measures 38-38-40-40-42-42 cm work 2 rows back and forth on 8 sts towards mid front only, 1 row on all sts, 2 rows on 8 sts towards mid front the other side only, 1 row on all sts (to make neckline sit nicely). Now dec 1 st for neck towards mid front each side (dec by K tog the 2 first sts) and repeat the dec in the beginning of every 3rd and 4th row a total of 18-19-20-22-23-24 times. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 41-42-43-44-45-46 cm cast off 6 sts mid under sleeve each side for armhole (= 3 sts each side of marker) and now complete front and back pieces separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 91-99-109-121-135-151 sts. Cast off for armhole each side at beg of every row: 2 sts 3-4-5-6-7-8 times and 1 st 1-2-4-6-10-15 times = 77-79-81-85-87-89 sts. When piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm cast off the middle 19-21-23-27-29-31 sts for neck and complete each shoulder separately. Cast off 1 st on neckline on next row = 28 sts left on shoulder for all sizes. Cast off when piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast off for armhole at the side as described for back piece, AT THE SAME TIME continue to dec for neck towards mid front as before. When all dec are complete there are 28 sts left on shoulder for all sizes. Cast off when piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Like left front piece, but mirrored.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams. Sew on buttons.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 12.08.2019
Now dec 1 st for neck towards mid front each side (dec by K tog the 2 first sts) and repeat the dec in the beginning of every 3rd and 4th row a total of 18-19-20-22-23-24 times

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = K from RS, K from WS
symbols = slip 1st and 2nd st as if to K tog, K1, pass 2nd and 3rd st on right needle over first st on the same needle = 1 st left
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (56)

country flag Charlotte wrote:

What is the measurement between button holes? i.d. how many inches between each?

01.08.2022 - 16:49

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Charlotte, a measurement of buttonhole spacing is given in the instructions: Make buttonholes when piece measures: Size S and M: 31, 34, 37 cm / 12 1/4", 13 3/8, 14½". Size L and XL: 33, 36, 39 cm / 13", 14 1/4", 15 1/4". Size XXL and XXXL: 33, 37, 41 cm / 13", 14½", 16 1/8". Happy knitting!

01.08.2022 - 20:06

country flag Helena Bäcklin wrote:

Jag ska sticka västen Frilly Julliet och det står följande om stickfasthet: DROPS RUNDST (80 cm) NR 3 - eller det st.nr du måste ha för att få 24 m x 32 v slätst på 10 x 10 cm. DROPS RUNDST (80 cm) NR 2,5 - eller det st.nr du måste ha för att få 24 m x 48 v rätst på 10 x 10 cm. Borde inte antal maskor vara olika på stickor nr 2,5 och 3?

26.12.2021 - 19:28

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Helena. Jo, om det strikkes bare glattstrikk(slätst), men her er det både glattstrikk (slätst) og rillestrikk (rätst). mvh DROPS Design

04.01.2022 - 11:49

country flag Nelli wrote:

Hallo, wäre es vlt sinnvoller die Anmerkung ' Bitte ganze Anleitung vor dem Stricken ganz durchlesen '. Ansonsten bringt mach gleich einen Fehler in die Arbeit. Habe diese Weste schon mal gestrickt und diese sieht wunderschön aus . Muss aber leider aufmachen und nochmal Stricken. Da ich ein alternatives Garn verwendete und die Nadelstärke leider halbe Größe zu groß war, ist die Weste dementsprechend etwas zu weit geraten ist.

26.03.2021 - 13:28

country flag Susanne wrote:

Ich verstehe es einfach nicht , es geht um folgende Stelle: Die Abnshme am Anfang der 3ten und 4ten Reihe total 18 mal wiederholen. Es geht dann in hin und rückreihe, oder verstehe ich es falsch ?

08.08.2019 - 21:50

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Susanne, unser Team wird das nochmal prüfen, edit 12/08 die Abnahmen sollen gegen Hals gestrickt werden, dh: 2 Reihe ohne Abnahmen stricken, dann am Anfang der beiden Reihe 1 M abnehmen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

09.08.2019 - 08:32

country flag Susanne wrote:

Hallo, eine Frage zur Abnahme gegen den Hals. Abnahme in jeder 3. und 4. Reihe? Bedeutet es in hin(3te) und rückreihe (4te)?

07.08.2019 - 21:45

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Suzanne, die Abnahmen werden in Hin- sowie Rückreihen gestrickt. Mehr lesen Sie hier. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

09.08.2019 - 08:31

country flag Nelli wrote:

Hallo \r\nWerden die umschläge auch abgestrickt ? Wenn ich m2 in rückreihe stricke , müssten diese links gestrickt werden .

03.06.2019 - 09:43

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Nelli, die Umschläge in M.2 werden bei der Rückreihe rechts gestrickt, und diese Maschen werden dann auch rechts bei den Hinreihen gestrickt (= krausrechts auf beiden Seiten vom glatt gestrickten Dreiecke). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

03.06.2019 - 10:43

country flag BAT wrote:

So, ich kann nur sagen: Wer richtig lesen kann ist klar im Vorteil. Meine Anmerkung von vorhin vergesst ganz schnell. M2 wird nur einmal gestrickt und dann nur noch M3. Das macht dann auch optisch Sinn für mich. Allen noch viel Spaß beim handarbeiten. Danke für die tollen Anleitungen.

27.05.2016 - 05:10

country flag BAT wrote:

Kann es sein das ihr beim Stricken nur M3 gestrickt habt und nicht M2 und M3 im Wechsel? Man kann zwischen beiden Rapporten keinen Unterschied erkennen und es ist nicht sichtbar das ein Wechsel zwischen M2 und M3 statt findet. In M2 müssten doch die Maschen neben den 7 Krausrippen ebenfalls kraus rechts erscheinen. Sie sehen auf dem Strickbild aber aus, als wären sie glatt rechts gestrickt, wobei die linke Seite die Vorderseite ist.

27.05.2016 - 02:59

DROPS Design answered:

Hallo, dies ist eine ältere Anleitung und wir haben das Modell hier nicht zur Hand, aber laut Anleitung wird ja der erste Rapport nach M 2 gestrickt (mit den li M zwischen den einzelnen Mustersätzen) und dann zu M3 gewechelt. Ich vermute, dass dies gemacht wird, damit der Rand schon nach unten zu liegen kommt.

27.05.2016 - 08:03

country flag Cheryl Egan wrote:

I'm confused by this pattern. I'm up to row three - can someone spell it out for me? I don't understand the charts. Thanks.

16.09.2015 - 20:23

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Egan, after the first 2 rows (= 1 ridge), work following the diagram: 8 sts in garter sts, *diagram M.1 (= 15 sts), 7 sts in garter st*, repeat from *-* until 23 sts remain, finish with diagram M.1 1 time and 8 sts in garter st. Then work following M.2. Read more here about diagrams. Happy knitting!

17.09.2015 - 08:56

country flag Ali wrote:

Acabo de comenzar a tejer este chaleco. Cuando dice de repetir M1 en vertical, ¿se han de tejer también los 8 puntos "de borde" y los 7 puntos de entremedias? ¿Los 8 puntos del principio (y final) se han de tejer también en la segunda fila del M1? Gracias

03.06.2015 - 01:43

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Ali, si se deben tejer los pts del borde y los de entremedias porque entran dentro del dibujo y se tejen en todas las filas tanto con M.1 como con M.2

07.06.2015 - 10:46