DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 1.90 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 26.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 116-33
DROPS design: Pattern no X-342

Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS ALASKA
550-600-650-750-850-900 g colour no 49, light brown mix
100-100-100-100-150-150 g colour no 02, off-white
50 g for all sizes colour no 40, pink

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) size 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) size 4 mm – for rib.
DROPS Buffalo horn buttons, no 538: 5-5-6-6-6-6 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 1.90 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 26.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.
PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 to M.3 – diagrams show 1 pattern repeat and the entire pattern is worked in stocking st.
BUTTONHOLES:
Make buttonholes on right front band.
1 BUTTONHOLE = cast off 4th and 5th st from mid front and cast on 2 new sts on return row.
Make buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 12, 21, 30, 39 and 48 cm.
SIZE M: 12, 22, 31, 41 and 50 cm.
SIZE L: 12, 20, 28, 36, 44 and 52 cm.
SIZE XL: 12, 21, 29, 37, 45 and 53 cm.
SIZE XXL: 12, 21, 30, 38, 47 and 55 cm.
SIZE XXXL: 12, 21, 30, 39, 48 and 57 cm.
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BODY PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 206-222-238-270-286-318 sts (includes 6 front band sts each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 4 mm with pink. P 1 row from WS, change to light brown mix and continue as follows from RS: 6 front band sts in GARTER ST – see above, * K2, P2 *, repeat from *-*, finish with K2 and 6 front band sts in garter st. When piece measures 10 cm change to circular needle size 5 mm. Work next row from RS as follows: 6 garter sts, K2 tog,* K2, K2 tog *, repeat from *-* and finish with 6 garter st = 157-169-181-205-217-241 sts. Insert a marker 42-45-48-54-57-63 sts in from each side (= 73-79-85-97-103-115 sts between markers on back piece). Continue in stocking st with front bands in garter st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 12 cm dec 1 st each side of both markers, and repeat the dec on every 4th row a total of 4 times = 141-153-165-189-201-225 sts.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 12 cm make BUTTONHOLE on right front band – see above.
When piece measures 21-22-23-24-25-26 cm inc 1 st each side of both markers, and repeat the inc on every 4th row a total of 4 times = 157-169-181-205-217-241 sts. When piece measures 28-29-30-31-32-33 cm work next row from RS as follows: 6 front band-sts in garter st, 12-13-14-16-17-19 repeats of M.1 across the row, then work first st in M.1 (to make pattern identical on both sides mid front), finish with 6 front band sts in garter st. Work 1 vertical repeat of M.1 – with front bands in garter st as before. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures approx 37-38-39-40-41-42 cm work next row from RS as follows: 39-42-45-51-54-60 sts (= right front piece), cast off 6 sts for armhole, 67-73-79-91-97-109 sts (= back piece), cast off 6 sts for armhole, 39-42-45-51-54-60 sts (= left front piece). Now complete each piece separately.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 39-42-45-51-54-60 sts.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
PATTERN: Continue in M.1, after M.1 continue in M.2 until piece measures 51-53-55-57-59-61 cm. Now work 1 vertical repeat of M.3 and complete piece in light brown mix.
ARMHOLE: At the same time, cast off for armhole at the beg of every row from the side: 3 sts 0-0-0-1-1-1 time, 2 sts 0-1-1-3-3-5 times and 1 st 2-3-4-3-4-4 times = 37-37-39-39-41-43 sts.
NECKLINE: When piece measures 49-51-53-54-56-58 cm slip 9-9-10-10-11-11 sts towards mid front on a stitch holder for neck, and cast off to shape the neckline at the beg of every row from mid front: 2 sts 3 times and 1 st 4 times = 18-18-19-19-20-22 sts left on shoulder.
NOTE: Make sure patterns sit over each other as shown in diagram when dec for armhole and neckline.
Cast off when piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Like left front piece, but mirrored.

BACK PIECE:
= 67-73-79-91-97-109 sts. Continue in pattern as described for front piece and cast off for armhole each side as described for front piece = 63-63-67-67-71-75 sts. When piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm cast off the middle 25-25-27-27-29-29 sts for neck and complete each shoulder separately. Cast off 1 st on neckline on next row = 18-18-19-19-20-22 sts left on each shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 44-48-48-52-52-56 sts on double pointed needles size 4 mm with pink. K 1 round, change to light brown mix and continue in rib = K2/P2. When piece measures 6 cm change to double pointed needles size 5 mm and continue in stocking st, AT THE SAME TIME on first round dec 7-9-7-9-7-9 sts evenly = 37-39-41-43-45-47 sts. Insert a marker at beg of round. When piece measures 8 cm inc 1 st each side of marker (= mid under sleeve). Repeat the inc on every 8-8-7-6-5-5 round a total of 11-11-12-14-15-16 times = 59-61-65-71-75-79 sts.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 41-40-39-38-37-36 cm work M.1 – make sure st marked with arrow in diagram is mid upper sleeve. After M.1 complete piece in M.2. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 50-49-48-47-46-45 cm cast off 6 sts mid under sleeve and complete piece back and forth on needle. Cast off for sleeve cap each side at the beg of every row: 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 2-3-4-5-6-7 times, then 2 sts each side until piece measures 56 cm, now cast off 3 sts 1 time each side and cast off remaining sts. Piece measures approx 57 cm.

ASSEMBLY: Sew shoulder seams.

NECK:
Pick up (from RS) approx 80 to 90 sts round neck (includes sts on stitch holders at front) on circular needle size 4 mm with light brown mix. P 1 row from WS, AT THE SAME TIME inc evenly to 94-98-102-106-110-114 sts. Continue as follows (first row = RS): 6 garter sts, * K2, P2 *, repeat from *-*, finish with K2 and 6 garter sts. Cast off with K over K and P over P when neck measures 3 cm.

FURTHER ASSEMBLY:
Set in sleeves and sew on buttons.

Diagram

symbols = off-white
symbols = light brown mix
symbols = pink
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (25)

country flag Anna wrote:

In this sweater , I don't see instruction on the white dots at the top portion of the sweater? And also , are the sections left on the needles when I'm finishing each piece separately ? Or are they placed on stitch holders? Thanks

14.09.2022 - 17:24

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Anna, the white dot sections is the pattern called M.2 (see the 7 rows over M.1 called "M.2" on the right side of the diagram) - when you divide piece for armholes, you can slip the unworked stitches for back piece and right front piece on a thread or a stitch holder while continuing the left front piece. Happy knitting!

15.09.2022 - 09:20

country flag Lourdes Brown wrote:

I am knitting the Highland Dew sweater #x-342. Is there a mistake in the sleeve pattern? Should the small size read 17 3\\4 for bind off instead of 19 3\\4? I think the numbers are reversed! Thanks for a response

30.07.2020 - 21:11

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Brown, sleeve are shorter in larger sizes since the shoulders are wider and sleeve cap longer. Check measurements for your size in the chart and adjust to your own measurements if needed. Happy knitting!

31.07.2020 - 07:50

country flag Knitix wrote:

Gleich zu Beginn der Arbeit steht, man solle auf der Rueckseite 1 R li mit rosa stricken und dann die Farbe wechseln. Aber wenn ich mir dieses Bild und auch einige der anderen Highland Dew genau anschaue, sieht das eher so aus als dass das Model mit rosa angeschlagen wurde. Und dann aber bereits 1 R li in hellbraun gestrickt wurde. Ich hab das so gemacht wie in der Anleitung beschrieben, aber es sieht nicht sehr schoen aus. Ueberlege mir jetzt, ob ich nochmals von vorne anfangen soll.

15.05.2019 - 04:39

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Knitix, so wurde das Modell im Foto gestrickt, wie in der Anleitung bescrhieben: mit Rosa anschlagen, 1 Reihe links stricken, dann mit braun (1. Reihe = Hinreihe) weiterstricken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

15.05.2019 - 08:39

country flag Jeanette wrote:

Diagrammet visar väl bara rätsidan? Man stickar väl tillbaka på baksidan, alltså brun på brun osv fast aviga? Jag gör så men får avlånga blommor på höjden. Ser inte rätt ut. Om man bara ska följa diagrammet från rätsidan måste man ju sticka runt.

07.01.2015 - 21:19

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Jeanette, Ja du ser diagrammet från rätsidan, det betyder att du stickar varannat varv i diagrammet från avigsidan. Lycka till!

02.02.2015 - 15:14

Matte wrote:

6+14(12)+1+6=181

21.03.2014 - 16:49

country flag Helle Thomsen wrote:

Der står ikke hvor i mønstret man skal starte så det blir ens på hver side af midten. I str. L er der 1 maske for meget når man skal strikke mønstret

21.03.2014 - 12:49

DROPS Design answered:

Du startar på rutan längs ner i höger hörn på diagrammet, upprepar diagrammets 12 m över alla maskorna på varvet, och som du säger kommer du ha en maska kvar till sist och den stickar du som 1:a m i diagrammet. Då blir det likt i var sida mot mitt fram.

27.03.2014 - 22:31

country flag Jette L Larsen wrote:

Garn mængde passer ikke, der skal bruges 1 xtra ngl hvid, og 1 ngl mindre i brun i str L

25.02.2013 - 21:19

country flag Hetty wrote:

Bedankt voor de uitleg. Nu weet waar ik het patroon niet goed gelezen heb.

25.01.2013 - 09:46

country flag Hetty wrote:

Waar wordt beschreven hoe de steekjes boven het inbreipatroon worden gemaakt en zitten er strepen op de schouder.

23.01.2013 - 21:26

DROPS Design answered:

De steken boven het inbrei patroon (het gedeelte met de witte stipjes) is M.2 en de "streep" op de schouder is M.3. Hoe je ze moet breien lees je onder beschrijving voor LINKER VOORPAND en ACHTERPAND. Veel breiplezier.

24.01.2013 - 19:25

country flag Jacqueline wrote:

Worden de mouwen rondgebreid op 3 of op 4 naalden? Is hier extra instructie over te vinden?

19.01.2013 - 12:25

DROPS Design answered:

De mouwen worden gebreid op de naalden zonder knoop. Je kan 3 of 4 naalden gebruiken (of een rondbreinaald). Wat jij het prettigst vindt. Veel breiplezier.

19.01.2013 - 20:49